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Thread: Cam belt conundrum

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  1. Cam belt conundrum 
    #1
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    Grew some balls last month and decided to replace the cambelt on my 07 plate C6 2.0TDi. I'm an engineer at the end of the day, so should be a breeze, I thought.

    I bought the parts, bought the locking tools and cracked on. First failure was with the new tensioner pulley. The Allen key drive sheared off instantly with minimal pressure applied when initially positioning the pulley to allow fitment of the belt. Ended up fitting the old one again with the new belt. Finished the job, went back to the parts supplier and they replaced the tensioner pulley free of charge.

    A month's worth of successful driving and fast forward to 5 days ago. Had some time off work combined with decent weather and decided to replace the tensioner pulley. Completed the job ensuring correct torque of 20Nm + 45 degrees applied and even wet assembled the new nut with thread lock.

    The wife was driving the car today and it began to run a little rough. On the way home a little later it struggled to start. It then started and ran rough again. Engine then cut out whilst coasting down a hill. The engine warning light and Oil pressure warnings came on.

    I believe she tried to turn it over a couple more times to no avail. I immediately suspected the cam belt. Whipped off the cover and sure enough the belt was loose.

    Got the car recovered and set about demolition. This is what I discovered...







    For some reason, the tensioner pulley slackened off and released the belt tension causing the cam pulleys to end up miles out.

    Put the old pulley back on again with the new belt and decided that, surely, the damage would have already been done and I had nothing to lose, so fired it up again (after checking and adjusting the timing). The car fired straight up with no abnormal smoking or rattling etc.

    Can I be the luckiest guy alive or will there be inevitable valve and piston damage? Been trawling the internet today to try to learn more about it. Many of the videos I've watched show that the vehicle won't start after valve damage.

    Debating whether or not to rip the block open tomorrow to inspect. Never gone this far into my engine before so I'll be going in blind.

    Does it actually need checking if the engine appears to be running fine?

    Apologies for the long winded post
     
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  2. Re: Cam belt conundrum 
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    When you first found the loose belt, did you offer up the locking tools to see if either cam had jumped a tooth or two. If no teeth jumped and the belt was just slack, you might have dodged a bullet. Did you put the tippex marks on the pulleys? You might have had a tippex timing guy in there in the past who just whacked up the tensioner torque ie. No locking tools or torque figures to work from.
    If I were you I 'd rebuild and run, listening for any abnormal ticking etc, before considering ripping the head off. Change the tensioner stud as that has been stretched several times now and maybe beyond yield point giving you the loss of tension on the roller. Presume you changed the water pump while you've been doing all this as well. Good luck!
     
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  3. Re: Cam belt conundrum 
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    I've just been reading through Sly's thread about his cam belt on his A3. OMG!

    When I originally changed the belt I replaced the water pump and the pulleys too. I installed a new nut on the belt Tensioner pulley too but didn't change the stud as it seemed extremely tight and wouldn't budge.

    It turns out that my belt wasn't even due yet. I bought the car at 32000 miles in 2012 and the garage I bought it from replaced the belt. The car is only on 81500 miles now.

    Not sure whether the white marks were from manufacture (they look professionally applied not just hand painted)

    The white marks are supposed to be aligned when the locking pins are fitted. I had a ball ache aligning them originally as they would move out of alignment when the belt tension was applied.

    I rebuilt it all last night to the point that the engine could be started. (Front end still removed and up on axle stands). I fired it up but couldn't hear any tapping or rattling. I made a video but not sure how to upload it.
     
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  4. Re: Cam belt conundrum 
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    Here's a link to the start up video I've posted on YouTube....

    Engine start post cam belt failure - YouTube
     
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  5. Re: Cam belt conundrum 
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    I'm not sure I have the time or funds to strip the engine and rebuild it to repair damaged valves. I don't suppose the car is worth anything post belt failure though. Cost me £12000 in 2012. Already spent £1000 on it in the last 4 months including new EGR valve, new inter cooler, cam belt kit and water pump and tyres etc. Run out of cash. Luckily, the weather is picking up and I have my motorbike to commute.
     
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  6. Re: Cam belt conundrum 
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    Got to this stage now with rocker cover removed and EGR cooler un mounted. Anyone got any info on how to remove the head?



     
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  7. Re: Cam belt conundrum 
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    Think you will find its just the rockers are damaged. But you need the head off to get it stripped.

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
     
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  8. Re: Cam belt conundrum 
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    Is it simply a case of removing the head attachment bolts and taking the head off complete with cams and pulleys?
     
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  9. Re: Cam belt conundrum 
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    Are these the bolts. Struggling to find anyone who removed a cylinder head from an A6 C6 2.0 tdi and has done a 'how to' procedure.

     
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  10. Re: Cam belt conundrum 
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    it starts, it runs, it drives ??? i think i would stick it back together, compression test it and if any cylinders are right down on power, go from there. although with the cam cover off i would first check for anything that looks bent and make sure the valves all come up to the same height.
    Audi 80 tdi avant with 360,000 miles...
     
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