008213 Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor - P2015. 2.0 TDI BMP.

[Bonnis]

Hello to you all for having this great forum!

I've read quite a bit of this problem and so far I've changed the IMF to a new one, but the problem still persists. Hard shudder at shutdown and also a kind of "rough"(very sensitive throttle response. I think it's the EGR you hear opening/closing) at 1400-2000rpm at low gears during the first 5 minutes after starting.

When looking at the flap with ignition or engine on/off, I should see it move, right? It doesn't. However, with a voltmeter I've found it to be power on 2 of the pins in the connector. As far as I've understood, the remaining 2 pins are for the sensors? Are there any way to check these?

Also, I have not yet cleaned the EGR valve. Could a clogged EGR result in this behaviour?

I guess the next step is to check the wiring. I read one post stating there might be a bad connection underneath the air filter box. The wires looks fine from the outside- should I open their black cover? Any places that are more likely to have damage than others, and do anyone have a diagram for where the wires go?

All the fuses looks alright and the coolant fans works good in VCDS - however the flap motor does not make a sound with the output test in the VCDS software.

Thank you for reading!

[RichardSEL]

See:
18447/P2015/008213 - Ross-Tech Wiki

To explain the parts in more detail: The manifold "swirl" flaps are inside the manifold and are not serviceable -- they are actuated by either a vacuum actuator or an electric motor. If your manifold is a plastic black one they are around £475.
Attached to the manifold is a two-part metal unit consisting of anti shudder flap (diesels) commonly mistaken for a throttle body (term for petrol engines). And an EGR valve which is the alloy pipe connected to the side. The EGR valve often gets badly gunked up and burns out or breaks the motor that moves it in and out.

The anti-shudder flap also gets sticky or fails to close when turning the engine off with possible motor damage also. These latter two parts are a bit cheaper at a hundred to £190 or so each (more expensive from VW but original parts of course).

The V157 motor manifold flap error is aka anti-shudder flap motor unit. Fairly easy to replace as the motor is part of the unit. Not too expensive. If the EGR was gunked up then the flap was probably sticky or stuck too and may have damaged the motor part.

Any help?

[DMitch16]

Gearing inside the motors are generally plastic = not very durable. A gummed up electrically operated EGR or ASV will strain the motor internals until they fail. The error code is telling you the flap is not reaching its expected position = obstruction / sooty goo build up or bad gearing (broken or worn teeth). If cleaning the EGR you might as well whip the manifold off (one bolt INSIDE the inlet pipe section as well as the outer bolts) and give it a thorough clean as it will have a fair amount of sooty / oily deposits inside. Ultrasonic bath is best but copious amounts of carb cleaner and a flexible pipe brush also give good results. I removed over 400 grammes of sooty crap at 100k, a lesser amount at 150k and...nearly at 200k so will be doing this again soon.

[Bonnis]

Thanks for answering.

I might have written it in a bad way as English isn't my first language. I apologize for this.

I have already replaced the intake manifold flap motor with a new unit. When using VCDS's output test, the flap does not move at all. It's not moving with the car starting/stopping and with the pipes detached either.

To make things clearer, this is what I'm wondering about:
1. How can I check if the wires in the connector on the intake manifold flap unit are bad? Two of the pins are showing voltage with a light bulb-voltage thing. (They also show voltage at shutdown and again 5 seconds after shutdown,approx.)
2. Will a clogged EGR valve result in a P2015 error? Should the output test still make the flap move?
3. How should I check the wiring? Any place it's likely to have failed - and should I take off the black rubber cover surrounding the cables altough they look fine from the outside?

Thanks a ton for answers! I really appreciate it.

[DMitch16]

Fuses OK? Check them carefully as some fracture without a clear break so look OK at first glance. Change out the fuse for a new one to be sure - number 8 in the engine fuse box if I recall correctly.

[Bonnis]

All fuses have been checked (both by taking them out and by testing with a volt meter), however; there are no fuse in the F8 position. I tried to put a 10amp in there, but still no working flap. The handbook, which is in German, have pictures of a fuse box, but it certainly is not the same as the one under the bonnet...

[RichardSEL]

Handbook fuse chart, even for Left Hand Drive cars, is incorrect

[Bonnis]

That's crazy!
Anyone have an updates chart? Not that I think any fuse is missing, though. It worked fine prior to the errors, and I haven't touched the fuse box.

[Bonnis]

Today I took a look at the wiring. I found one that goes under air filter box that had a tiny little scratch. Opened up and found a little break in one of them. The copper seemed was kind of stiff, looked it have been in contact with water.

Anyway, it didn't solve the problem. Next thing I'll do is disassemble the EGR and take a look. If anyone knows how the EGR is boltet on, please tell me. It's not much room back there! Thanks

[RichardSEL]

That's crazy!
Anyone have an updates chart? Not that I think any fuse is missing, though. It worked fine prior to the errors, and I haven't touched the fuse box.

When I inquired for a correct chart (and the part number for the set of spare fuses they mention -- before going on a grand Euro motoring tour) VWUK lied to me saying there was "nothing wrong" with their chart.

I have a .pdf that I've been using for my '06MY petrol that seems to be accurate. PM me an email address for return attach?