Upgrading factory 'Audi Audio' DIY

[anemeth]

It looks like on the enclosed picture: left (small) is a treble speaker 4M0 035 399, right is the front center loudspeaker 4M0 035 416:

Attachment 36971

But the base Audi audio does not have this speaker, probably empty for base audio.

[Adarshji]

if it is an empty slot, is there a way to add an additional tweeter in it by tapping either into the center speaker or the side tweeter - perhaps by also adding a mono amp if need be? Just wondering if it could be used to improve the 'tweeting' quality because of lack of line of sight installation of current dash tweeters. Thanks.

[Retom]

if it is an empty slot, is there a way to add an additional tweeter in it by tapping either into the center speaker or the side tweeter - perhaps by also adding a mono amp if need be? Just wondering if it could be used to improve the 'tweeting' quality because of lack of line of sight installation of current dash tweeters. Thanks.

If there is an empty space check if there is not used harness loom for tweeter. Sometimes Audi use one universal wiring for different systems what is cheaper than keeping 2 or 3 different units. If not you can try to connect the tweeter to existing center speaker. Looking on enclosed wiring diagram it should be possible. The question mark is with the resistance of such a combination. You have to try and if it is not working properly (lower resistance of 2 connected parallel speakers) you will have to balance the resistance with additional resistor.
As a tweeter you can also use original, new, Audi center tweeters: Bose is CA 45 Euro, B&O CA 100 Euro. But you will find them much cheaper on eBay.

[Adarshji]

Thank you both Anemeth and Retom, sincerely appreciate your responses. One last question, if you don't mind indulging me - for Bose audio upgrade, how does Audi get wires from glove box to the amp in the trunk - do they use cd player in the glove box that has a line out vs the stock one, which doesn't have a line out? If yes, could I simply buy a Bose compatible cd player for the glove box and run wires to an aftermarket amp tucked somewhere in the glove comp? Just wondering if that will allow me to add new tweeters/mid range on different channels.

[Retom]

Thank you both Anemeth and Retom, sincerely appreciate your responses. One last question, if you don't mind indulging me - for Bose audio upgrade, how does Audi get wires from glove box to the amp in the trunk - do they use cd player in the glove box that has a line out vs the stock one, which doesn't have a line out? If yes, could I simply buy a Bose compatible cd player for the glove box and run wires to an aftermarket amp tucked somewhere in the glove comp? Just wondering if that will allow me to add new tweeters/mid range on different channels.

I am afraid I can't help. Audi audio system is connected in one network with MMI and other car systems not only via CAN wiring but also via optical fibres. Q7 4M is like computer on wheels and as I saw in wiring diagrams this whole audio network is very complicated. Also, I have never done any audio upgrade in Q7. It is also not fully clear for me what you intend to do: change speakers, instal new or additional amplifier, add CD player? Change or add the speakers is relatively easy as long as you want to use the speakers which fit to original retainers, have the same resistance and you don't have to do extra wiring to car amplifier. Further upgrade is much more complicated even if you want to use the second hand original Audi parts: Component Protection, coding, connection with other car systems, etc. I am assuming that your knowledge in this area allows you to do such a project but I am sorry I can't help you more. Perhaps Anemeth will know more than me in this topic.

[anemeth]

I agree with Retom. If you would like to change the main amp, not just speaker, that is a professional job, not DIY. Also I do not recommend to chane to Bose system from your Audi base system, as the consensus is the Bose is not that good in Q7.

[Adarshji]

This sub box fits snug around the floor and doesn't move . The sub amp is mounted in front of the sub under the drivers side 7th seat . Leaving the whole left hand side for all of the tools and bits and pieces in carry. Like bottle jack and other bits for my caravan. Also I wired the amp from the fuse box in the boot on the left hand side panel . Fuse no 2 on the red row is the fuse that the Bose upgrade would have used anyway . I also made a connector to the sub 4 ohm feed using cut down space terminals and heatshrink . This has been cable tied in , but the beauty is that i can revert this whole system back to stock in about 15 mins including de wiring it

Hi Atthephoenix, could you please post a pic of how you connected the amp to fuse #2 in the rear fuse box? Wondering if I can simply use add-a-circuit because of the amperage requirements. TIA!

[Atthephoenix]

See photo supplied , I made a fuse holder, and although the amplifier is rated at 20 amp . I have fitted in my own fuse a 10a for security. The method i used was a spade connector that pushed snugly into the fuse receiver ( circled in yellow on the photo) then after you clip the purple fuse frame back over I used a small cable tie to be sure it would stay in position.

I have had the amp running for about 3 weeks now and have been checking the fuse and connection for any heat build up and it's all been fine.

I had to have the rear near side inner trim out when I was fitting my towbar wiring , and it was a bugger to get back without marking so didnt want to go ripping out more interior trim ..

Like I said , the main wiring going to this fuse panel is really heavy duty . And the Bose amp is fed from fuse 2 , so I figured I would use the same location 20200609_152825.jpg

[Adarshji]

I bought my car with basic audio, spent my money on other goodies. I was planning to swop the speaker anyway, as usual the factory speakers are just some plastic thingy. I looked at the speakers, and here is some basic info on them:

Front tweeter: 8ohm, 38mm dia and decent magnet size. It has a 10.7μF capacitor as crossover, 6db/1.9kHz crossover frequency.
Front mid/bass: 4ohm, 8" size
Rear tweeter: I have no info
Rear mid/bass: 4ohm, 6.5" size

After looking at the front tweeter, I decided that I probably live with it. It was big and looked nice. On otherhand the two mid/bass speakers were just plastic construction with small magnets, thus they got swopped.

I bought used speakers from ebay, took them apart and glued the new speakers (Audison) in it with silicon based glue and added some foam surround to it. After taking the door card down, it is easy two swop the speakers. See pictures of the original speakers, the plastic body and the finished items below:

Front speakers:
Attachment 32734
Attachment 32735
Attachment 32736

Rear speakers:
Attachment 32737
Attachment 32738

Hi Anemeth, I am now planning to work on swapping out the door speakers by following in your footsteps and I have already bought used Q7 stock speakers from eBay with the intent of taking them apart. Quick question on that - did you use a hot gun to melt the glue and remove the stock speaker from plastic harness without damage or did you simply snip or cut out the old speaker and in the process destroyed it? Also, I am planning to add pioneer speakers as a replacement - did you simply glue the audison speakers on top of the plastic lip or did you have to trim the audison speakers as well? Thanks much!

[Adarshji]

See photo supplied , I made a fuse holder, and although the amplifier is rated at 20 amp . I have fitted in my own fuse a 10a for security. The method i used was a spade connector that pushed snugly into the fuse receiver ( circled in yellow on the photo) then after you clip the purple fuse frame back over I used a small cable tie to be sure it would stay in position.

I have had the amp running for about 3 weeks now and have been checking the fuse and connection for any heat build up and it's all been fine.

I had to have the rear near side inner trim out when I was fitting my towbar wiring , and it was a bugger to get back without marking so didnt want to go ripping out more interior trim ..

Like I said , the main wiring going to this fuse panel is really heavy duty . And the Bose amp is fed from fuse 2 , so I figured I would use the same location 20200609_152825.jpg

Thank you so much for sharing this atthephoenix. I just bought an alpine amp, which recommends using a 60amp inline fuse. Perhaps my best bet is a direct tap into the battery to keep things simple. Did you use a remote wire with your amp, and if yes, what accessory did you use to tap into?