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Thread: Fuel Flap

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  1. Re: Fuel Flap 
    #11
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    I've had mine replaced (on my previous A7).

    When the dealer changed it they also replaced the fuel filler cap assembly - I think that's because to access the solenoid you need to prize off the filler cap surround (Part No 2 on the diagram) which is destructive to the part.
     
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  2. Re: Fuel Flap 
    #12
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    Hi All,

    as of this morning I have joined the club of filler cap issue owners, as most wouldn't open at the pump and having read the forum was familiar with the manual release.

    I'm going to be booking the issue with the dealer however just wanted to ask how many times the manual release will work? I tugged the cord expecting the flap to pop open but no affect and then pushed the flap and it popped open, needless to say I filled the tank!
    Audi A7 (2012), Black Edition 245 PS Tiptronic, Phantom Black
     
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  3. Re: Fuel Flap 
    #13
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    Sorry to hear that, welcome aboard

    Pull chord didn't help at all in my case. Desperate banging on the lid eventually released it.

    Next time around even that didn't help and had to prise it open and then i left it open until I got it fixed.


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  4. Re: Fuel Flap 
    #14
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    Had the exact same problem with Solenoid seizing.
    Got it repaired by Audi, cos around £76
    Then complained to Audi UK and got a refund.


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  5. Re: Fuel Flap 
    #15
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    Audi quoted something like £118 to replace the solonoid on mine.....
    Got the parts myself (both the surround and solonoid) from ebay for £40. Will take some pictures when I get around to fitting it.
    A7 55 TFSI S-Line 2018
     
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  6. Re: Fuel Flap 
    #16
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    Finally go round to fixing mine today. Here is a summary of what to do, what to buy and where to get the bits. Hope this helps others with the same problem who fancy a bit of DIY.

    FUEL FILLER FLAP INSERT HINGE 4G8809906 (Typically £15 from Ebay)
    insert1.jpginsert2.jpg

    Throttle control element 4L0862153D (Typically £25 from Amazon or Ebay.)
    solenoid.jpg
    Remove the petrol/diesel cap and detach its rubber retainer cord from where it hooks onto the door flap.
    To gain access to the solenoid, you needs to remove the black plastic insert piece and it cannot be removed without sacrificing it.
    puncture.jpg
    Puncture the 4 “T” points on the black plastic body with a bradle. Keep twisting until the hole is big enough to push a screwdriver through. There are plastic clips that lock the plastic housing from behind into the bodywork that can be released by prising inwards using the screwdriver. Start with the top left position, and when this is released, you can easily release the others.
    Now detach the entire assembly. The flap hinge goes quite far behind the bodywork, so you need to pull the whole assembly outwards and towards the left.
    Unclip the power connector cable from the old solenoid. It should slide straight out with a wiggle!
    Unclip the red manual release cord from the old solenoid. Even though you are throwing the old solenoid and plastic housing away, unscrew the old solenoid purely for the reason that you need the 2 torx screws from it to fit your new solenoid to your new housing.
    Cut the overflow, “drain” tubing with a pair of snips about 2 inches back, and push the stub out the front of the plastic housing. The tubing has a flange and can only be removed out the front of the plastic housing. The flange it too wide to push through the hole in the housing, otherwise you would need to find the other end of this piece of drain tubing (probably by removing the wheel arch), so it’s simpler just to cut the tubing and join it back together with a plastic coupler.
    The entire assembly should now be free from the car. You now need to unclick the body coloured trim from the door flap, so you can attach it to the new door flap. It simply slides out. Don’t try to prise it off, slide it away from the hinge until it clicks out.
    Slide the body coloured door trim onto your new door flap (reverse direction to how it was removed!)

    Screw your new solenoid onto the back of your new housing using the 2 screws retained from the old assembly. Connect the power connector and manual release red cord. (Your new solenoid probably came with a new manual release cord. If you wish to use the new one, tape it to the old one and pull the old one out through from inside the boot so the new one’s handle is gets to the right place – behind the small cargo net, right hand inside panel, near the fuses etc.)
    Push the stub of drain tubing you previously removed through the hole in the front of the new cover and connect the tubing back together again using a 5mm plastic hose coupler (<£2 from Amazon.)
    coupler.jpg
    Now, angle the new housing into the bodywork, hinge first and line up with the aperture. Press everything firmly inwards, applying force to the 4 corners (where the clips are) and you should hear a satisfying click when the new housing engages with the body panel. Re-attach your fuel cap and its cord onto the hook on the door.
    Close the fuel flap and test that all is working correctly by locking and unlocking the car etc. Probably took me less than 1 hour start to finish.
    A7 55 TFSI S-Line 2018
     
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  7. Re: Fuel Flap 
    #17
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    Thanks for the write up I managed to do it all but didn't need to change the housing some clever levering with plastic picks and it came out with out breaking even elsawin says the same that the housing does need replacing using your method of punching through with a screwdriver if not confident and fear of scratching your paint follow the above but it does come out without breaking if you are gentle!


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