B6 2.0 tdi Cr 140. EGR/IMF issue

[Majorlook]

I'll have to have a go at that, and also great idea with the anti-seize. I've always wondered how many other components could be maintained to prolong their life such as the electric rear calipers etc

[DMitch16]

A lot! Oil is important so a good VW 507 00 spec every time; Forget Long Life service intervals - not proven to work; DSG gear oil changes to VW spec every 40K without fail. Correct level is important. Renew manual gear box oil to spec every 3 to 5 years - no gearbox is "sealed for life" and even Mercedes Benz did a U Turn on their "sealed for life" boxes. Renew brake fluid to VW spec every 2 years. Working some parts like the turbo actuator vigorously can dislodge light carbon build up. Grease what can be greased, oil what can be oiled, clean what can be cleaned. I antiseize all new bolts where seizure corrosion is known especially bolts going through bush collars. Not all fixings can be lubricated as some are friction dependable - avoid these as it would be a safety issue e.g. wheel bolts, subframe bolts (nothing wrong with antiseizing shafts just make sure threads are dry). Use loc-tite where it was used before.

Rubber perishes if it is dry so a light grease, oil or wax every so often keeps rubber parts supple.

Finally don't be afraid to let them rip every so often a good VW engine sometimes gets better over time and needs to play!!

[RichardSEL]

Echo the above good advices
ATF and auto-box filter changes not restricted to DSG. Tiptronic too every 40k miles

Don't do trips in a hurry nowadays, except this weekend had to do Blackheath -->Leicester & back some 250miles.
This ol' '06MY tFSI 2.0L returned >43MPG on 95RON -- not bad with a load

... when they're good, they're very, very good...

[Majorlook]

Great advice guys, I'm relatively new to VW and also relatively new to working on cars too, I'm actually an industrial electrician so I do come across a lot of parts that are on cars just on a much bigger scale, actuators, pressure/temp sensors etc so it's just getting my head around the car stuff.

On a side note, Richard I see you have the power-fold mirrors, I've always wondered about these because I have the 2009 B6 passat highline model and it doesn't have these, how hard is it to fit them do you know? I don't even think mine fold in properly because it seems to take a lot of effort to push them so I've never tried with fear of breaking something.

[RichardSEL]

Yes, I left mine out in a busy and narrow commuter road too. Until neighbour with BMW got his smacked off. However ours as least will, if hit, smack back the other way. If you hand fold yours they will eventually go in towards the windows alright.

There's no Auto-fold for mirrors for a B6 -- you have to operate the drivers' door mirror toggle. You have to already have Auto-dimming reverse mirror as a mininum coz the wiring's there then -- when you get a set, complete with the replacement toggle switch, controllers, and the motorised mirrors themselves, you'll get a drivers' side that also has Auto-dim on it, recognisable by a grey/blue area about ¼" around the mirror's edge. This was a factory-fitted B6 optional extra in Weather Pack 1 or 2

I picked up my parts from a scrapper -- they are out there, you just have to be a bit OCD in searching every week to find where. More details in my help .doc. PM me an email address for return attach. Remind me what it's for

CC did have Auto-fold as an option with their 3c8 series of modules.

[hissinsid]

I clean the EGR, ASV, manifold and EGR pipe at the same time as the DSG oil change every 40,000 miles. Never had a problem with any of these since starting that regime at 100K with the exception of excess runner control where the vacuum actuation that pulls the flaps was allowing the plastic (again!) rotating swivel to go vertical causing it to stick momentarily under full throttle then snap closed under return spring pressure. Pushed a small piece of hose over the stop peg and it can't reach full vertical any more - no more runner control errors!

Hi Mitch, long time no speak! How are you keeping buddy?
I'm still running my B6 (BKP Engine) and having a bit of bother with a DTC on Vagcom, namely the Intake Manifold Runner Control. I noticed your above info above during some internet searching and its both shed some light (possibly!) and confused me even more! Let me explain:

A lot of answers on this search seem to indicate that the 'Manifold Runner' is actually the 'Anti Shudder Valve'! Then there are others who indicate it's the 'Swirl Flap Axle' in the plastic manifold ports!
I initially leaned toward the former, simply because the A/S valve is electrically driven and will have limit stops/feedback to the ECU (and hence potential for a diagnostic error), whereas the Swirl Flap unit is purely a solenoid operated vacuum driven shaft with NO positional feedback.
I also found a YouTube video showing a guy testing an AS Valve using Vagcom in 'Basic Settings' mode. Vagcom showed this labelled as 'Intake Manifold Runner/Motor Function Test/Adaption'. I tried to do this also, but couldn't find the group item in Vagcom.

So I've had the Manifold off and was pleasantly surprised at the cleanliness of the EGR/Anti Shudder Valves, Manifold and Exhaust Recirc Pipe.
The flaps are in really good nick, considering all the horror stories I've heard on these, and hardly any wear in the spindle/bushes. End float was a little excessive so I fitted a thrust washer to limit this, otherwise all very good. Actuator bench tested with a hand vac pump and fine (this was renewed about 30k miles ago and manifold was cleaned then too).

So all boxed up and tested fine. Pulled the large diameter Air Inlet Hose off the AS Valve and used a mirror to check function-all working as it should (i.e. normally open and only closes for engine shutdown, until about 5 secs afterward).
But still getting the dash alarm and Vagcom Intake Manifold Runner Control fault repeating after clearing the DTC's

So your para above has got me wondering how you know this Swirl Flap can cause the 'runner control errors'??? What's the ECU using for feedback as there are no proximity switches fitted to it? Is it maybe sensing manifold pressure irregularities?

I'm wondering if I should pull the bloody thing off again and fit a modified stop too!

Cheers,
Steve

[DMitch16]

Hey Mr Ferry Man, aye it has been a while.

Glad the car is still running as is my 218k beast after a bit of suspension surgery with an electric saw!

My specific code was 'Inlet Manifold Runner Control Deviation - Intermittent' and occurred as mentioned before when either I had accelerated to around 70, backed off a bit then tried to accelerate again. Whether the swirl flap rail by getting stuck then snapping shut unexpectedly upset the pressures in the intake at the main flap or somehow it sensed the vacuum change I'm not sure but it was eradicated by not allowing the swirl rail to over extend thus no longer allowing it to stick. Has been fine ever since after months and months of pinging the engine fault warning pigtail light (which reset ever time the engine was switch off and back on). As you say the actuator for the swirl rail is just a vacuum actuator operated by a vacuum solenoid but that does have an electrical feed so might let the ECU know that it didn't cycle on or off when the flaps shut or the pressure changed. The N75 valve is also in the same vacuum circuit and maybe involved somehow perhaps?

Easy fix for me though.