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  1. Golf Mk3 AEE engine idle RPM icrease. 
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    Hi,

    I have a 1996 Golf Mk3 Bon Jovi edition with the AEE 1.6L 55kw engine in it. My problem is that the engine idles very rough and it takes a lot of gas to get it going from a stop (and a whole bunch of other problems but I've given up on them). I've been looking all over the internet for a way to increase the idle RPM but have found nothing. I've connected VCDS but found no way to increase it in the program. I've found one website saying that it cannot be done, which is HERE (CTRL+F and enter AEE), and then I found a page seemingly out of a Haynes book saying that the idle speed of a manual AEE engine should be 830-930 RPM, and the automatic transmission AEE should be 630-850 (from what I understood), the page is HERE. So my question is, has anyone ever attempted and succeeded in increasing the idle RPM of an AEE engine without negative effect? If someone has PLEASE tell me how to, as it would make driving my car a LOT more enjoyable. Also, my alternator only connects to my voltage regulator with one contact, the other one is broken off, is that a huge problem and can it affect the cars performance? A photo of the voltage regulator is HERE. There is also only one contact in the alternator (probably broken off as well).
     
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  2. Re: Golf Mk3 AEE engine idle RPM icrease. 
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    Many years ago I had a 1995 MK3 GTI with the 2.0 8v engine in it. I could connect it vagcom / VCDS.

    I know nothing about your particular engine but it will either have an electronic throttle body or an idle control valve. Whatever is fitted is lkely to gummed up and dirty and will require to be removed for a good clean. If it is a throttle body then it will require to be electronically alinged with VCDS, if it is an idle control valve then just a clean and re-fit should suffice.

    Whilst you are at, made sure that all of the vacuum lines are intact and that the car is well serviced, fuel, air filters, plugs, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm etc etc.

    The idle speed being wrong is a sympton of something else, not the cause, you need to rectify what is causing the issue.

    As for the alternator, no idea but if something is broken, get it fixed.

    And good for you for keeping such an old car going and on the road. There are some on here who really know their stuff and may be familier with that engine who may offer some better information.
     
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  3. Re: Golf Mk3 AEE engine idle RPM icrease. 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Col View Post
    Many years ago I had a 1995 MK3 GTI with the 2.0 8v engine in it. I could connect it vagcom / VCDS.

    I know nothing about your particular engine but it will either have an electronic throttle body or an idle control valve. Whatever is fitted is lkely to gummed up and dirty and will require to be removed for a good clean. If it is a throttle body then it will require to be electronically alinged with VCDS, if it is an idle control valve then just a clean and re-fit should suffice.

    Whilst you are at, made sure that all of the vacuum lines are intact and that the car is well serviced, fuel, air filters, plugs, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm etc etc.

    The idle speed being wrong is a sympton of something else, not the cause, you need to rectify what is causing the issue.

    As for the alternator, no idea but if something is broken, get it fixed.

    And good for you for keeping such an old car going and on the road. There are some on here who really know their stuff and may be familier with that engine who may offer some better information.
    Thank you for the reply. I've already cleaned the TB and did the general tune up (leads, plugs, dizzy cap and rotor and so on). The RPM is supposed to be low on this engine, from what I've read on the internet it was made that way, but I want to increase the idle RPM for smoother operation, but do not know how to do it.
     
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  4. Re: Golf Mk3 AEE engine idle RPM icrease. 
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    Fix the voltage regulator (just fit a new one!) on alternator. Otherwise voltage fluctuations send everything haywire (and can cause lumpy idle).

    AEE idle CANNOT be adjusted, it is controlled by the ECU, nor is it necessary. After you cleaned the throttle body did you adopt it to the engine again?
    As you have VCDS you should be able to check if the potentiometer works OK (measuring blocks). I would also check other values (temperatures, voltages, etc are sensible and plausible).
     
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  5. Re: Golf Mk3 AEE engine idle RPM icrease. 
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    Quote Originally Posted by itavaltalainen View Post
    Fix the voltage regulator (just fit a new one!) on alternator. Otherwise voltage fluctuations send everything haywire (and can cause lumpy idle).

    AEE idle CANNOT be adjusted, it is controlled by the ECU, nor is it necessary. After you cleaned the throttle body did you adopt it to the engine again?
    As you have VCDS you should be able to check if the potentiometer works OK (measuring blocks). I would also check other values (temperatures, voltages, etc are sensible and plausible).
    100x this - its taken me a while after eliminating all the other degradation of pats (routine maintenance mostly) to find this out. Transformed my car - AEE is very fussy on voltage. Its a frustrating problem as when under load she performs well, but it masquerades as other issues. Only noticed it because I was stumped (one of those sigh and stare at the open bonnet moments) and saw it got rough when my cooling fan switched on/off.

    028-903-803/D this is the regulator part. My replacement was a topran and fits perfectly. New ignition leads will help if you still have a little roughness after replacing the regulator. Ordered some BERU ones, decent quality.
    151 PS @ 3800 rpm 1.6 8V MPi - 31.5mpg urban <-- Happy days

    123k On the clock and counting. (25k on the block)

    I need all your V-Powers.
     
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  6. Re: Golf Mk3 AEE engine idle RPM icrease. 
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    But why does the haynes book state two different idle RPM ranges? Well if the regulator can cause a lot of problems that means I'll have to replace the whole alternator, because one of the contacts inside the alternator is broken as well. Yes I did run the adaptation, but my TB adapts through basic setting group 003 I think, not group 98 like other WV's, and it doesn't even say anything about a TB adaptation, I just go into group 003 and the throttle plate starts moving around a lot, then stops. And VCDS shows almost nothing when I connect it. The info the ECU gives me is VERY limited. Some temperatures, O2 voltage, battery voltage, valve duty and a few other values. Also, even though one of the alternator contacts is broken, the battery voltage when the car is running is above 14 volts. Any way, I'll replace the alternator with a good used one when I get paid, hopefully it helps. Also, my car feels very responsive and fast when it's cold, but once it warms up it's sluggish as hell. It's weird, the symptoms my car has turn up a million different results on google, and any mechanic is stumped when I take it in. Thanks a lot for the suggestion though, I'll be looking into getting a replacement for my alternator in the near future. I'll report any changes that will follow.
     
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  7. Re: Golf Mk3 AEE engine idle RPM icrease. 
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    I would ignore the RPM range in the haynes, they can be inaccurate - mine settles around 635RPM. The difference in RPM ranges are probably due to errors in whoever made the manual - the idle varies upon coolant temperature automatically, but it will find the lowest idle point based on O2 information from the loop. Your throttle body sounds ok to me, I would expect that it is voltage related - you will know when its not adapted because it will idle at 1000-2000RPM and hunt around.

    As long as your coolant temperature is reading correctly I wouldn't worry too much. The next thing after the alternator would be an ignition coil if you have a general power loss on warm-up if the rest of the issues are sorted. You might even find it is the low charge on the battery witholding the spark due to low output from the alternator. I think its worth tackling one at a time as this fault doesn't produce a code. Lets fix whats actually broken first and get her up and running!

    By the contacts in the alternator do you mean the slip rings?

    The voltage regulator component has a bridge rectifier with 6 diodes, some of them can blow and the alternator can still operate, but you will get an unstable ripple voltage and ultimately resulting in less current (note that multi-meters wont be enough to pick up this unless it is severe - its a job for an oscilloscope). The engine should be operating off the alternator alone with the battery as a buffer for high current draw if that makes sense. So the battery current gets drained from current draw from the loading (fans and such) and will gradually get more flat in lots of traffic (ultimately lowering the voltage momentarily and upset the system). It could just be a case of worn brushes, but since they are built into the regulator component you kill two birds with one stone -fixed volts and full current generation.

    The brushes need to make contact with the slip rings in order to flow current/volts, when they are worn to the limits the current generation is reduced. If the slip ring is broken then it may be easier to replace the alternator, if they are showing smooth copper though they should be ok to work. You will find that with the new regulator the carbon brushes are much longer and actually extend by spring force to make contact.

    I had the same issue, flawless when cold (also had one brush worn to the limit and the other with marginally more meat on it) - but when it warmed up it got worse - its the general driveability which makes is stressful to drive. Occasional cutting out. My alternator was putting out 13.9V at 2000+ RPM the car would run, but with issues at idle. should be 14.4ish really.

    Cleaning all ground points and +ve points from alternator to battery is worthwhile. The front engine mount stud - make sure that ground point is clean, under the battery tray, also the +ve link from alternator to starter motor +ve post to battery. 13mm hex and 8mm hex from memory is all you need, maybe a 10mm too. Did this a not long ago.

    To get under the battery tray it's best to remove the PAS reservoir from the tray to give you more room - I also unhooked the screenwash tank (and unplugged the screenwash pump from the connector) as it covers one of the battery tray bolts.

    There should be a couple of wires going to the chassis post underneath. Make sure you remove all the oxidation/gunk.
    151 PS @ 3800 rpm 1.6 8V MPi - 31.5mpg urban <-- Happy days

    123k On the clock and counting. (25k on the block)

    I need all your V-Powers.
     
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  8. Re: Golf Mk3 AEE engine idle RPM icrease. 
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    No the slip rings are fine, and I replaced the voltage regulator already, but as I've said the old regulator had one of the contacts broken off, You can see it in the picture I linked. And IF i remember correctly the contact inside the alternator that should touch with the part of the voltage regulator piece that's broken off is missing inside of the alternator where the regulator sits. I'm talking about the contact on the sides of the brushes, I'll add another picture highlighting it. The new voltage regulator had those metal contacts on both sides, but one of the contacts touched nothing inside the alternator, so I assume it was broken off inside the alternator as well.
    IMG_20160508_224714.jpg
     
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  9. Re: Golf Mk3 AEE engine idle RPM icrease. 
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    Oh and hold up, your AEE engine is putting out 151kw? holy crap. Mine probably doesn't even have the 55kw it came out of the factory with. If I could get mine up to that power I wouldn't even need a swap.
     
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  10. Re: Golf Mk3 AEE engine idle RPM icrease. 
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    Ah yes I see it now sorry - yeah sounds like you will need a replacement alternator then - its not worth bodging a connection in there with some copper!
    151 PS @ 3800 rpm 1.6 8V MPi - 31.5mpg urban <-- Happy days

    123k On the clock and counting. (25k on the block)

    I need all your V-Powers.
     
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