ASZ TDI cambelt tensioner - can the later friction tensioner be retro fitted to the ealier damper tensioner setup?

[Firebladepully]

This is what it looks like with the bottom crank seal flange in place, this is what is also retaining the back plate in place, hence either removing the crank pulley along with the flange or the easier route of cam wheel off as well as water pump.
This is the hydraulic damper setup:



This is the more favourable friction tensioner setup (minus the tensioner):



Here is the horrible hydraulic damper unit in place. The bigger idler pulley screw hole is behind the hydraulic damper near the original idler:




Here is the screw hole covered by the hydraulic tensioner, you will need the correct stud for this, part number i dont have to hand:



Hope these help :-)

Paul

[Col]

Nice!

Thanks for the piccies.

On the backplate, I don't plan on taking the crank pulley seal housing off so would assume to allow wiggle room as a minimum the outer cam pulley needs to come off. Looks like the inner cam pulley may also need to come off as well.

I also cannot get the mental anguish I had with the engine mount out of my mind last time I did one of these about 10 years ago. It obviously will have to come off / out if I'm changing the back plate. Cartwheeling it out towards the back with possibly a few more pipes out the way seems reasonable though.

I plan to start this maybe Thursday evening, I thankfully have a nicely lit garage.

[Col]

Update...

This is a no-go.

The engine block is not tapped correctly to accept the idler / deflection pulley stud.

I obtained the revision 'H' backplate and the pulley stud hole does not line up with the higher level tapped hole you point to above. With the backplate in place I marked round the idler hole in the cover, see piccy below, I've highlighted where it should be in green, there is no hole tapped in the block in that position.

The next tapped hole above the green dot looks hopeful but there is no corresponding hole in the revision 'H' backcover for that.

Looks like I'll be keeping the hateful damper tensioner setup afterall.

[Ramljak]

I did this conversion last year, and drive it on tuned ARL MK4, after 36000 km my belt snap off 10 teeth. After engine work and compareing hydro and friction typ found that lower hole for idler need to bi driled and taped few cm lower. So I drill and tape it. Drive car for 8 000 km and this time im missing 13 tooth. First time i have contynental timing kit, and after that Dayco one. Now im driveing on OE kit, and after 3500 km have wearing on belt. Need to burn that car 😠😠

[Ramljak]

Photo of broken belt

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