Issues after fuel pump control module replacement

[EdB80]

Hi all,

I'm hoping someone may be able to give us some advice.

My brother recently picked up an older A4. To be exact, A4 estate, 2.5l V6 Quattro TDi 2003

Was an excellent runner, no problems, quiet as you like and a fast car. A couple of weeks ago at the end of a journey the car was turned off and locked.
The next morning it would not start.

We went through lots of guesswork, eventually getting it down to the small fuel pump in the boot. We took this out to test it.
Unfortunately it was damaged when removing it, testing it showed that this hadn't been the problem, we couldn't refit it due to the damage so replaced it.

Still wouldn't start, time to get some help!

A mechanic friend took it away, after a few days we were told it was the electronic control module sat on top of the main fuel pump (under the bonnet).

This was sent away to a specialist who repaired it and sent it back. Our mechanic friend fitted it and turned the key - hey presto it starts.

But we now have problems. Before the car broke down it was running beautifully. Now it is awful. The engine sounds 10 years older, lots of noise sounds awful. No power at all, in fact if you try to drive it you can put your foot to the floor and it moves at about 5 miles an hour, even if you can pick up any kind of speed it refuses to change gear.
The lights are flashing around the PDNR lights.

In general it's now an awful car.

Our mechanic friend is close to giving up on it, not sure he really knows what the problem is now, it went to him as a non-starter and now it starts...

Can anyone who is used to Audis give us a clue what to try next? I've ready that any work on the fuel system would then require it to be bled to remove air. If this has not been done and there was indeed air in the system, could it have caused the car to go this bad?!

Any other ideas what on earth could have caused a brilliant runner to go so badly wrong just form changing the electronic control module.

Any advice greatly appreciated as we're at a loss at the moment, no idea which way to turn next.

Many thanks

[arman123]

First thing you should do is scan the car with VCDS clear the codes and rescan then go from there

[EdB80]

Many thanks, is this good enough or do we need the 'official' cables?

Vag Com / Vcds, Diagnostic Cable Tool, Audi VW Seat Skoda - Hex Can Usb | United Kingdom | Gumtree

Cheers

[Doctle Odd]

Fake

[green A8]

Not worth buying, there was someone on either a VW or Audi forum who bought similar only to discover that it didn't work (no surprise there!) I think he returned the cable either twice or three times. Replacement items were provided by the online auction seller. None of the replacement cables worked at all. Yet more far eastern knock off rubbish! How I hate that cheap junk!

You have two choices here,

Option 1: buy yourself a GENUINE Ross Tech cable, which will cost you quite a bit more than the knock off cable. But it will be yours for as long as you want it, and will no doubt pay for itself many times over during it's lifetime.

Or.Option 2: appeal for a forum member near to your location who has the genuine kit to scan the car for you. Option two will cost you some beer money, and you could meet a valuable contact.

[Alan02]

Was the fuel pump timed up correctly to the engine using correct procedures?

[abyrne153]

I've been down the same road and had the edc repaired with less than good results. Car started and ran but smoked badly ran rough and was a pig to start when cold. Eventually it packed in again and this time I sent the whole pump off to a specialist. They fitted a brand new ecu and calibrated the pump but the result was the car ran like new when it was refitted. These pumps are precision items and don't like being messed with. After getting the ecu repaired first time the car did not throw any fault codes so even though you don't get a code doesn't mean the pump isn't faulty. Get the pump off to a specialist that can test the vp44 type pump.