Allroad 2.5 2005, drop in economy, flat performance, longer cranking on cold start

[ametlib]

Don't know if a tuning box is good or bad news ? It will not improve starting, that's for sure, but maybe give you some hp back when accelrating ? The only easy fix I can see improving starting is to fool the coolant temp sensor with a resistor and a switch during startup , making the
ECU believe you are in the northern Norway instead of the warm UK. Adding 5K-ohm's serially into the circuit will " lower the temp" from 0 C to -20 C. Should make the ECU put the winter coat on and give some more fuel during startup ....
The minus side are about the expected life time of the glow plugs ... Did you read measuring blocks 1, how many crank degrees the quantity adj. are activated at idle, engine temp abowe 85 C ? Could clairify how much off things are

[A. Waterfield]

Don't know if a tuning box is good or bad news ? It will not improve starting, that's for sure, but maybe give you some hp back when accelrating ? The only easy fix I can see improving starting is to fool the coolant temp sensor with a resistor and a switch during startup , making the
ECU believe you are in the northern Norway instead of the warm UK. Adding 5K-ohm's serially into the circuit will " lower the temp" from 0 C to -20 C. Should make the ECU put the winter coat on and give some more fuel during startup ....
The minus side are about the expected life time of the glow plugs ... Did you read measuring blocks 1, how many crank degrees the quantity adj. are activated at idle, engine temp abowe 85 C ? Could clairify how much off things are

i'll look into that - chip now fitted power much more like it... no change to start... diesel bob emailed back stating that what is being experienced is not something he has heard of...

[ametlib]

I have 2 empty pump bodies laying in my garage, at least one of them are from a very high milage car. Funny thing is that none of them have any wear at all from the internal vane pump ( there are only contact axially in the pumps front) Makes me think of two things-
1-Pump body are made of alusil, very resistant agains wear. 2- Why did the vane pump wear out the body on yours ?
Contaminated fuel ? a blockage in the fuel supply ? or maybe a common problem ? just luck I've 2 without wear ?
Anyhow I fear your starting problems will not be any better now when the weater ( hopefully ) becomes warmer. Maybe me beeing old and slow but what exactly have Diesel Bob not heard of ?

BTW. About my little issue, when your car was still running sluggish, did it ever smoke white ? Did the engine ever knock during accelration ?

[A. Waterfield]

I have 2 empty pump bodies laying in my garage, at least one of them are from a very high milage car. Funny thing is that none of them have any wear at all from the internal vane pump ( there are only contact axially in the pumps front) Makes me think of two things-
1-Pump body are made of alusil, very resistant agains wear. 2- Why did the vane pump wear out the body on yours ?
Contaminated fuel ? a blockage in the fuel supply ? or maybe a common problem ? just luck I've 2 without wear ?
Anyhow I fear your starting problems will not be any better now when the weater ( hopefully ) becomes warmer. Maybe me beeing old and slow but what exactly have Diesel Bob not heard of ?

BTW. About my little issue, when your car was still running sluggish, did it ever smoke white ? Did the engine ever knock during accelration ?

The stalling / low idle issue bob had no awareness of happening before.

Re: your issue my car never smoked white that I could see, occasionally would bark a bit only from standing start full acceleration, due to low LP pressure? It has been out for another 20mile run with consistent power delivery now.

I have a theory that my car had been run on petrol by the previous owner, as the pump deteriorated dramatically in the 15k miles I have driven, and there is no other external influences.. start time / pressure generation is so much better with the new body. on ebay there are a few late 2004-5 models with similar sounding pump issues (also low miles) so Maybe a later model issue?.(or also miss fueled)

[A. Waterfield]

My email conversation with bob read from bottom up:
Hi Alex,

The internal speed sensor has been set & calibrated so I doubt it is that.

A refresh of the ecu will not work, I tried but the used head I fitted is
too worn to allow a reflash to be successful, it's going to need a new head
at the very least to attempt a reflash & possibly a new ecu if the reflash
does not work.

Have you tried running the pump on a direct can of fuel, bypassing the
original pipework/filter? It may be something as silly as air ingress.

Regards, Bob.

It will not start from cold without multiple attempts.... bugger. I
have timed it bang on spec and + 2degree earlier, has no effect on the
ailment, had tried a piggyback ecu with no additional change in
starting, more power tho....

for my two pence I believe its not seeing its internal positioning
sensor correctly (fractionally different in new body?) and this causes
it to stall immediately after firing up. I guess when the ecu links up
with the pump it then runs on the cam sensor needle lift etc rather than
internal position sensor.... so I guess this means a reflash or new

ecu?

let me know what you think..
Kind Regards
Alex

On 26/01/2015 18:43, "Bob" wrote:

Hi Alex,

Well your a lot nearer than I thought you would be!!

Not had such an issue to be honest, maybe worth a tiny tweak advancing

the
injection pump to begin with.

Regards, Bob.





Hi Bob, Pump up and runs, car drives spot on power good and no
smoke/timing issues. the only issue/query is over starting up. it
will fire almost immediately idle at 500rpm without pre injection for a
split second then idle at 800 with pre-injection all fine and dandy. I
have 1175 pre injection turned off - intermittent code.... I'll check
how it starts from cold tomorrow to make sure there is no other starting
issue....

penny for your thoughts.

Kind Regards,
Alex

[A. Waterfield]

so thinking that the pump ecu is ok, the position sensor is reading correctly, the pump head starts the car and runs the car fine so why could this cause it to idle low, and then stall? doesnt make sense. could an injector cause a problem (thinking that particles of metal have gone down stream from pump) or could it indeed be air getting into the pump. there is ZERO air bubbles going down the clear pipe to the pump so I know its not upstream of this pipe... why does it turn pre injection off??? after seeing the above email it makes me think I need to spend some more time looking at this issue before spending on (Pump head £200?+ and ecu £300?+ +bob?)

[ametlib]

Totally agree with the last sentence. As said, the reason it turnes off the pre. inj. is because the ECU can't see the start of injection signal coming from the needlelift ( at least not in the expected time frame) and reason is probably fuel starvation/ low fuel pressure in
the pump head.
Suspect something wrong in the fuel supply or think a little of this sentence, coming from Diesel Bob-" the used head I fitted is
too worn to allow a reflash to be successful" What more is the head to worn to do ? Make the engine start from cold ? What was wrong with the old head ?
From here I would do two things, 1- check measuring block 1, 13 & 14 , hot engine and post the readings. 2 Run the car from a can, go directly, not through the filter, and try to start it from cold

[rhory]

Replace crankcase breather and blank of egr valve, you will be driving a different car. Replace filters also.