Front brake pads....diy job?

[Andrew Turner]

Sooo, after having to get a local garage to change the rear pads because the flippin thing needed plugging into a computer to do it, the pad warning came on about 30 miles after leaving Morzine Been driving it for two weeks with it on so guess i'd better change them, but does it need plugging in to do the fronts too? Also how does the pistons go back in, push or screw?

[Cwizard]

Did mine recently, I pushed in the pistons with pliers and some home made wooden tool. Does not require VCDS. Pretty simple job. When the warning light goes on you can drive another 5000km approx. depending on your driving style.
I also had brake fluid change soon afterwards in VW dealership because i noticed filthy stuff had contaminated the oil after i pushed the pistons in. Good luck if you embark.

[Peter D]

That is why I always recommend opening the bleed nipple when you press the piston back so it expels the old fluid and you can then bleed new fluid through. Regards Peter

[gupsterg]

Sooo, after having to get a local garage to change the rear pads because the flippin thing needed plugging into a computer to do it, the pad warning came on about 30 miles after leaving Morzine

You could remove tyre to view if they need changing, sometimes the sensor develops a wiring fault and warning comes up ...

There are a few versions of the front brake calliper, here is a link to how I did mine ... Link:- Front Brake Pads and Discs Change

been driving it for two weeks with it on so guess i'd better change them

Here's a handy table of info on wear limits & PR codes etc ... Link:- Pads need replacing - would anybody recommend Pagid?

I also had brake fluid change soon afterwards in VW dealership because i noticed filthy stuff had contaminated the oil after i pushed the pistons in. Good luck if you embark.

I also didn't loosen bleed nipple but never had any contamination ...

I also had a brake fluid change though a few months later ...

[Peter D]

If you did not undo the bleed nipples and expel the fluid now do you know it was not contaminated. Regards Peter

[Andrew Turner]

Cool, thanks guys. Yeah am gonna take a wheel off and have a look, looking through the wheels i can see there's about 5mm left on the outside pads, and as the inside rears were almost to the mettal when the outside's had about 2 and a half mm left i assume sliding single piston calipers wear unevenly and there is less on the insides. I know how to change pads, done it regularly on our last 4 cars, just didn't know if it needed plugging in or not.

[gupsterg]

That is why I always recommend opening the bleed nipple when you press the piston back so it expels the old fluid and you can then bleed new fluid through. Regards Peter

Ahh I see Peter ... I assumed contaminated oil would be visible in reservoir but then it depends how much of it is pushed back ...

Anyhow I had a brake fluid change as there was no record in service log ...

Will deffo do your recommend tip next time though mate ...

[Peter D]

Also remember that, depending on the caliper, OEM and somethird party pads are sided. The inside pad with the spring clip has a direction of rotation arrow on them. If you get it wrong they still fit but clunk every time you brake and drive you nuts. Regards Peter

[Andrew Turner]

Anyone know at what thickness the pad warning comes on? And do the rear pads have pad sensors too? I never got a warning for them, was only made aware of how warn they were when i had the rear tyres replaced.

[Guest 2]

rears dont have sensors, next service i will be needing pads and discs all round.