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  1. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nard666 View Post
    you have to click on the audi section and then click a6 then a6 c6 and it's down as a sticky on that page it will say something like vcds changes, face-lift and pre face-lift click on that thread and it's on there with some other interesting changes you can do
    Once again - thank you for another helpful tip!
     
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  2. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjsdavis View Post
    Once again - thank you for another helpful tip!
    No problem at all
     
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  3. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjsdavis View Post
    Once again - thank you for another helpful tip!
    Also there is a vcds section in amongst the forums, in case you need any further help or have any questions
     
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  4. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
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    I've eventually got around to looking at this again - run into another small glitch.

    I tracked down the Battery Coding Wiki and attempted to do this on the car this afternoon...

    I had bought the correct battery from TPS - which was a Yuasa YBX5020 (900A), but I can't program it into the car using VCDS in Module 61 (Battery Regulation).

    I found the useful coding video on Ross-Wiki, but the Yuasa battery doesn't have a BEM code at all. Just the model number on the top, and the serial number on the side. VCDS rejects the "YBX5020" as it states that it requires a "10/11 digit alphanumeric code". Clearly, mine is only 7 characters.

    My serial number is 10 characters, but because the part/model number is too short - it wouldn't have it. Yuasa isn't in the drop-down list of battery manufacturer's either - just Varta / Excel and a few others which I'd never heard of. TPS (VW) no longer sell Varta batteries!

    In the end, I cancelled the code change, and tried changing the serial number of the existing (old) Varta battery that I'd removed (with gen Audi part number) up by one digit on the last digit and saved with "default" settings for the modules. Went for a test run, and all seems ok at the moment - a rescan after the test drive didn't throw up anything... Only time will tell if the battery coding issue will help with the battery drain issues that I continue to experience. My gut tells me that it won't make any difference. Is there anything else that I can do to do a proper or better job of battery coding within VCDS?
     
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  5. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjsdavis View Post
    I've eventually got around to looking at this again - run into another small glitch.

    I tracked down the Battery Coding Wiki and attempted to do this on the car this afternoon...

    I had bought the correct battery from TPS - which was a Yuasa YBX5020 (900A), but I can't program it into the car using VCDS in Module 61 (Battery Regulation).

    I found the useful coding video on Ross-Wiki, but the Yuasa battery doesn't have a BEM code at all. Just the model number on the top, and the serial number on the side. VCDS rejects the "YBX5020" as it states that it requires a "10/11 digit alphanumeric code". Clearly, mine is only 7 characters.

    My serial number is 10 characters, but because the part/model number is too short - it wouldn't have it. Yuasa isn't in the drop-down list of battery manufacturer's either - just Varta / Excel and a few others which I'd never heard of. TPS (VW) no longer sell Varta batteries!

    In the end, I cancelled the code change, and tried changing the serial number of the existing (old) Varta battery that I'd removed (with gen Audi part number) up by one digit on the last digit and saved with "default" settings for the modules. Went for a test run, and all seems ok at the moment - a rescan after the test drive didn't throw up anything... Only time will tell if the battery coding issue will help with the battery drain issues that I continue to experience. My gut tells me that it won't make any difference. Is there anything else that I can do to do a proper or better job of battery coding within VCDS?
    I'm not too sure how you would go about it with a yuasa,, if you had a originally fitted manufacturers battery I would say maybe use the same and change serial number by one or look up the original part number (or closest to it as possible) and use the serial number you have or just alter last digit,
     
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  6. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nard666 View Post
    I'm not too sure how you would go about it with a yuasa,, if you had a originally fitted manufacturers battery I would say maybe use the same and change serial number by one or look up the original part number (or closest to it as possible) and use the serial number you have or just alter last digit,
    When you updated your software how did you get a charge to the car to deal with it being a long process? Did you connect your charger to the jump terminals under the bonnet? Or direct to battery?
     
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  7. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #47
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    This is the problem - as far as TPS (VAG) are concerned. Yuasa IS now the manufacturer fitted battery....

    As said, I left the original Varta part number as it was, and simply changed the serial number up by a single digit. It's possible, that this has had an effect, as thus far, I've not had the car fail to start, sound laboured at start-up or given me a low-battery warning on the dash.

    I've also had a bulb warning ping throw up nearly all of the time now - VCDS reports it has the small parking bulb beside the dipped headlight. By chance, I got to starting to turn the lights OFF, instead of leaving the switch on AUTO as I always have done since owning it. I'm not sure if this helping (or not making any difference), but between the battery serial code change, and turning the lights fully to OFF, the car does seem to be holding charge better. However, not nearly enough time has passed yet to see if the problem has been cured. I've also not been able to leave the car to sit for more than 24 consecutive hours yet either, so hopefully over Christmas, will be a true test of the speed of battery drain/discharge....
     
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  8. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjsdavis View Post
    This is the problem - as far as TPS (VAG) are concerned. Yuasa IS now the manufacturer fitted battery....

    As said, I left the original Varta part number as it was, and simply changed the serial number up by a single digit. It's possible, that this has had an effect, as thus far, I've not had the car fail to start, sound laboured at start-up or given me a low-battery warning on the dash.

    I've also had a bulb warning ping throw up nearly all of the time now - VCDS reports it has the small parking bulb beside the dipped headlight. By chance, I got to starting to turn the lights OFF, instead of leaving the switch on AUTO as I always have done since owning it. I'm not sure if this helping (or not making any difference), but between the battery serial code change, and turning the lights fully to OFF, the car does seem to be holding charge better. However, not nearly enough time has passed yet to see if the problem has been cured. I've also not been able to leave the car to sit for more than 24 consecutive hours yet either, so hopefully over Christmas, will be a true test of the speed of battery drain/discharge....
    Yes but it wasn't when your car was made so personally I would have gone with a Varta or Bosch as they are made in same factory by the same people, I've read that you use the first ten digits of the barcode as a serial number on a Bosch battery apparently on recommendations from Bosch, maybe you would do the same on a yuasa, are you sure the 10 digits on the side of it are the serial number and not the part number making the barcode the serial number? The manufacturers code would be different on a yuasa compared to the Varta originally fitted so that shouldn't really make it recognise the battery but if it's working...... Well i hope it works for you and please do keep us informed on the progress as for auto lights I've kept to switching mine on manually and have for a while and have only noticed a slight difference if anything, as for the bulb have you checked it, is it working fine? And did you run a charge to your car when updating software via the jump points underneath the bonnet? Or directly to the battery? (I'm assuming jump points but want to make sure)
     
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  9. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nard666 View Post
    Yes but it wasn't when your car was made so personally I would have gone with a Varta or Bosch as they are made in same factory by the same people, I've read that you use the first ten digits of the barcode as a serial number on a Bosch battery apparently on recommendations from Bosch, maybe you would do the same on a yuasa, are you sure the 10 digits on the side of it are the serial number and not the part number making the barcode the serial number? The manufacturers code would be different on a yuasa compared to the Varta originally fitted so that shouldn't really make it recognise the battery but if it's working......
    I know - but as this is all TPS/Audi/VW now sell (Yuasa), it has to be ok - right? No-one (shops) seem to sell Bosch anymore, and only a few motor factors sell Varta. It's a lot easier to get Varta/Bosch online, but in the event of a claim, I'd rather have a local supplier with an invoice and someone I can speak to f2f if needed. Also, with the discounts that TPS do if you talk to them nicely, I got it way cheaper than I could have done anywhere else. It was a shade under 100 notes for a 900A battery.

    The serial code, as far as I can see, is definitely the code (beside the bar-code) on the side of the battery casing. The manufacurer's "model" code, is emblazened in the artwork across the top of the battery itself, but all of this is moot anyway, as VCDS doesn't offer a Yuasa option anyway. It doesn't offer an "Other" battery manufacturer either. It seems to only allow 6 different makes, including Varta and Excel and a few others I've never heard of, so even if I had a 10-digit manufacturer's model number, I can't select (or manually input) the manufacturer (which you have to select) in any event. Anywho - it will have been standing on the driveway for about 48 hours in the afternoon, so I'm hoping she's going to spring into life and show me that battery charge retention is improving!

    Quote Originally Posted by Nard666 View Post
    Well i hope it works for you and please do keep us informed on the progress as for auto lights I've kept to switching mine on manually and have for a while and have only noticed a slight difference if anything, as for the bulb have you checked it, is it working fine?
    Will do - I can't tell if my battery improvement is down to VCDS battery coding tweak, or turning the lights fully off... or both? Annoyingly, the small OSF parking light seems to work just fine. I can almost guarantee to get a bulb failure warning on the centre dashboard display everytime I start the car. Turning the lights onto dipped will clear the warning, as the bulbs all work and come on! (***?!). When the lights are on (at night-time) I never get the bulb warning. Therefore, I assume the bulb must be iffy, might not be coming on "all" of the time, or might have a short - so it's going to get changed anyway, when I get around to yanking out the cluster. I'm kind of hoping that it's a shorting bulb, and that this was the source of the battery drain. It would be blooming nice if this solves it...

    Quote Originally Posted by Nard666 View Post
    And did you run a charge to your car when updating software via the jump points underneath the bonnet? Or directly to the battery? (I'm assuming jump points but want to make sure)
    Yes - I had a battery charger charging the battery whilst the two MMI updates were running, as I couldn't possibly have trusted the car not to have run out of juice whilst systems were on the car wasn't running! I only ever use the jump points to either trickle charge or boost start the car when it's needed it.
     
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  10. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjsdavis View Post
    I know - but as this is all TPS/Audi/VW now sell (Yuasa), it has to be ok - right? No-one (shops) seem to sell Bosch anymore, and only a few motor factors sell Varta. It's a lot easier to get Varta/Bosch online, but in the event of a claim, I'd rather have a local supplier with an invoice and someone I can speak to f2f if needed. Also, with the discounts that TPS do if you talk to them nicely, I got it way cheaper than I could have done anywhere else. It was a shade under 100 notes for a 900A battery.

    The serial code, as far as I can see, is definitely the code (beside the bar-code) on the side of the battery casing. The manufacurer's "model" code, is emblazened in the artwork across the top of the battery itself, but all of this is moot anyway, as VCDS doesn't offer a Yuasa option anyway. It doesn't offer an "Other" battery manufacturer either. It seems to only allow 6 different makes, including Varta and Excel and a few others I've never heard of, so even if I had a 10-digit manufacturer's model number, I can't select (or manually input) the manufacturer (which you have to select) in any event. Anywho - it will have been standing on the driveway for about 48 hours in the afternoon, so I'm hoping she's going to spring into life and show me that battery charge retention is improving!



    Will do - I can't tell if my battery improvement is down to VCDS battery coding tweak, or turning the lights fully off... or both? Annoyingly, the small OSF parking light seems to work just fine. I can almost guarantee to get a bulb failure warning on the centre dashboard display everytime I start the car. Turning the lights onto dipped will clear the warning, as the bulbs all work and come on! (***?!). When the lights are on (at night-time) I never get the bulb warning. Therefore, I assume the bulb must be iffy, might not be coming on "all" of the time, or might have a short - so it's going to get changed anyway, when I get around to yanking out the cluster. I'm kind of hoping that it's a shorting bulb, and that this was the source of the battery drain. It would be blooming nice if this solves it...



    Yes - I had a battery charger charging the battery whilst the two MMI updates were running, as I couldn't possibly have trusted the car not to have run out of juice whilst systems were on the car wasn't running! I only ever use the jump points to either trickle charge or boost start the car when it's needed it.
    Hi, sorry I'd forgotten to follow-up your last message due to Christmas but on the other hand this does allow time to ask the all important question....... How's the battery been holding up? I still have yet to do my update but my cars been off the road so I've been more concerned with the cause of those problems (it's ended up in a mechanics due to cold weather and no garage but i should have it back tomorrow and hopefully they will have sorted it leaving me with only my battery issues... Well mostly only that) will connect to a charger using jump terminals to update, thank you,your light problem could be bad connection or wiring if it's only an occasional fault? but yes I'd start with a fresh bulb and checking the connection is fine, as for the battery manufacturer, you have a battery so I'd continue with what you have for the time being at least, I get my batteries from Costco which are Bosch and also have a no quibble policy on refunds/exchanges if you do need another at somepoint this may be helpful to you if there's one local to you
     
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