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Thread: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent

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  1. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
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    Quote Originally Posted by roy.stubbs@talk View Post
    Hi
    So today i went to it, failed to start.....
    My question to you is: When you say control head, do you mean the buttons controls around the gear stick? and if so, is there a module attached to it, or does it just relay messages/send commands to all the satalite modules (Amp, Tuner, CD,Phone etc) dotted about.
    I don't appear to have the consistent shutting down issue you had or the loss of sound from speakers, but I'm wondering if its starting up by it's self, or maybe not shutdown properly every time!
    Also whats making me think it could be the cause is from time to time I have the non illumination of the buttons, and the occastional swithing of of the system.
    Hello Roy
    No, the MMI controls around the gear stick is NOT the control head.
    The control head is a small silver box, tucked underneath the bulkhead behind the glovebox. You need to remove the glovebox to even get to it. The control head is the brain/central hub of the entire MMI system. Mine turned out to be faulty, and most likely had an intermittent fault/open circuit, which was preventing the entire MMI system from shutting down and turning off, which was draining the battery.

    The only visual clue, is that the hazard warning button on the main dash remains illuminated if the MMI system is not shut down. This should go off within 20-30 seconds of shutting down the car and locking it. If it remains illuminated, the MMI system is still on and running.

    Control heads are Becker units, and vary slightly depending on the spec of your car and MMI system. The main part number is: Becker - 4E0 035 729
    If you look to replace this, you should look at yours first, and try to get as close to the same as you possibly can - there are usually a few of them on Fleabay. You will also need to have the CP removed by a specialist to have the replacement control head coded to your car as it won't work until this is done. Most local and even specialist Audi mechanics cannot do this (remove CP). VCDS cannot do this.

    Quote Originally Posted by roy.stubbs@talk View Post
    Also, where did you find the part number? is it possible to get a look at it without removing it all?
    Part number is on the part itself. I cannot honestly remember if the control head is installed label-side down, or label-side up (against the bulkhead), therefore can't remember whether you need to physically remove the unit to be able to check yours. I have a feeling that you do iirc. It's a fair amount of hassle to get to it and even look at it.
     
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  2. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
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    I've had my battery go flat unexpectedly, so I checked my drain using a 10A range on a multimeter inserted between the battery terminal and the clamp, visible through the tailgate glass. It's okay, but for reference this is what I saw: On locking the car the current was over 10Amps, dropping in increments over a few seconds to 0.3 - 0.4 Amps, then after 12 minutes it dropped to 0.09 - 0.11 Amps. The variation on the last measurement is due to the led flashing to indicate the alarm is armed. After 24 hours, the drain was still 0.09 Amps (90 milliamps). That translates to using less than 16AH from the battery per week. The car is a 2010 A6.
     
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  3. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiffypr View Post
    I've had my battery go flat unexpectedly, so I checked my drain using a 10A range on a multimeter inserted between the battery terminal and the clamp, visible through the tailgate glass. It's okay, but for reference this is what I saw: On locking the car the current was over 10Amps, dropping in increments over a few seconds to 0.3 - 0.4 Amps, then after 12 minutes it dropped to 0.09 - 0.11 Amps. The variation on the last measurement is due to the led flashing to indicate the alarm is armed. After 24 hours, the drain was still 0.09 Amps (90 milliamps). That translates to using less than 16AH from the battery per week. The car is a 2010 A6.

    Annoyingly, I have had to replace the battery (again) in the last month.

    Further up this chain I had purchased a Yuasa PBX5020 from TPS, but this was around 4 years ago - give or take. After approx. 3 or 4 days of sitting around doing nothing, there simply wasn't enough juice/cranking power in the battery to fire up the starter motor properly. I'd simply get the classic v e r y slow turnover of the starter motor and engine, and then it stopping with the dashboard clicking etc.

    A new battery has fixed this.... although anecdotally, it feels like the starter motor is possibly on the way out. I'm finding that if the car is left for a day or two, particularly in the very cold >4 degrees weather at the moment, that when the key is turned, sometimes there is a fractional delay in the starter motor where it just "feels" and sounds like the starter motor was stuck or rusted up, and requires 1/2 a second to release itself before it cranks over normally. It's hard to describe - but it's definitely not quite 100% right to my ear.

    I've found no evidence that the MMI system is not shutting down fully. The hazard warning light on the dash is going off, as it should when the car is locked. However, on occasion, I have had the classic control head "problem" indicator where the MMI control buttons around the gearstick, on the very odd occasion, do not illuminate (when the car lights are on). When I had the previous MMI control head failure, this used to happen a lot. After the replacement was fitted, it didn't happen at all, I've noticed that, perhaps once a month, it's happening again. It just seems like there's a glitch in the MMI/control head once again.

    Even more curiously, the Yuasa battery that was removed self-reported (with it's internal lighting system) that all was well with it. It had a green light showing at all times, even when there clearly wasn't enough juice in it to start the car... There are no faults showing within VCDS linked to the control head at the present time, but the various Quiescent codes are all there, everytime the car wouldn't start.
     
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  4. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
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    To add a little more detail: On locking the car the current was over 10Amps, dropping in increments over 45 seconds to 0.3 - 0.4 Amps at which point the hazard button illumination went off, then after 12 minutes it dropped to 0.09 - 0.11 Amps.
    So the hazard button illumination going off is not an indication that the electrics have shut down fully, just that the first stage of shutdown has completed.

    (Regarding the green/red/black indicator on a battery, this only monitors the specific gravity in one cell, so any of the other 5 cells failing won't affect this indicator.)
     
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  5. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
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    Quote Originally Posted by smiffypr View Post
    To add a little more detail: On locking the car the current was over 10Amps, dropping in increments over 45 seconds to 0.3 - 0.4 Amps at which point the hazard button illumination went off, then after 12 minutes it dropped to 0.09 - 0.11 Amps.
    So the hazard button illumination going off is not an indication that the electrics have shut down fully, just that the first stage of shutdown has completed.
    To add a little more detail: Thanks for confirming the same point that I've made all along.

    The hazard warning light is a visual cue for all of us, that the car is no longer in a high-drain state and is essentially "shut-down". When I had a high-drain issue, due to a faulty control head, the hazard warning light was never going off. I did not know the significance of this at the time, and I've never seen the cue mentioned anywhere else, ever.

    I think everyone that's on here knows that no car is ever completely "off" [with no drain whatsoever] otherwise permanent systems like the car's alarm and security would clearly not function.
     
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  6. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
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    I think I have found my problem. Quiescent was 90-110mA. I unplugged the ODB plug and it dropped to 9mA (0.009A).
     
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