Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent

[rjsdavis]

Your report shows a mass air flow sensor fault if i remember right? Did you clean that (they often just need cleaning) unlikely to have anything to do with your power drain but can cause loss of power etc

Oh yes - spent all of Saturday afternoon cleaning out the EGR and the Throttle Body. It made it much worse and I broke down driving home getting stuck on a steep hill unable to get up it!

[rjsdavis]

Jus to update - dropped back the battery to TPS on Monday afternoon. Had a call this morning agreeing that the battery was completely ****** and was a warranty replacement (still none the wiser as to whether the battery was ****** when I got it, or whether something in the car has killed it!)

However, they've told me that I need to wait 2-3 weeks for Yuasa to now test it themselves and re-confirm that it's kaput, before they'll hand me a new one! They've told that in the interim, the only thing I can do is buy another from them, and they'll refund me in full once Yuasa approve the warranty claim. Does that sound right to anyone, given that TPS agree it's a dud?

Brand new EGR valve and Throttle bodies will be fitted on Sunday morning. Hoping that by Sunday afternoon, I'll have a working car again!

[Nard666]

Jus to update - dropped back the battery to TPS on Monday afternoon. Had a call this morning agreeing that the battery was completely ****** and was a warranty replacement (still none the wiser as to whether the battery was ****** when I got it, or whether something in the car has killed it!)

However, they've told me that I need to wait 2-3 weeks for Yuasa to now test it themselves and re-confirm that it's kaput, before they'll hand me a new one! They've told that in the interim, the only thing I can do is buy another from them, and they'll refund me in full once Yuasa approve the warranty claim. Does that sound right to anyone, given that TPS agree it's a dud?

Brand new EGR valve and Throttle bodies will be fitted on Sunday morning. Hoping that by Sunday afternoon, I'll have a working car again!

I don't know it sounds like a load of hassle to me seeing as batteries do sit on shelfs for ages and sometimes are knackered when you buy them (that's why there's usually a warranty on them), I've took batteries back to a few places before and they have either just give me my money back or a new battery, when you cleaned your egr valve did you also clean the egr cooler? If you are already there anyway and doing it yourself? (I'm not sure) it would be worth doing

[Nard666]

Jus to update - dropped back the battery to TPS on Monday afternoon. Had a call this morning agreeing that the battery was completely ****** and was a warranty replacement (still none the wiser as to whether the battery was ****** when I got it, or whether something in the car has killed it!)

However, they've told me that I need to wait 2-3 weeks for Yuasa to now test it themselves and re-confirm that it's kaput, before they'll hand me a new one! They've told that in the interim, the only thing I can do is buy another from them, and they'll refund me in full once Yuasa approve the warranty claim. Does that sound right to anyone, given that TPS agree it's a dud?

Brand new EGR valve and Throttle bodies will be fitted on Sunday morning. Hoping that by Sunday afternoon, I'll have a working car again!

Also you say you have cleaned the maf sensor because you cleaned the egr valve and Throttle body but you know the maf isn't located within either of those right? (and I don't know how you went about cleaning those) the maf is located just after the airfilter box in the plastic housing before the intake to the turbo and also did you scan it again after you have cleaned them and driven? If not it would be worth it

[rjsdavis]

Also you say you have cleaned the maf sensor because you cleaned the egr valve and Throttle body but you know the maf isn't located within either of those right? (and I don't know how you went about cleaning those)...

Nope - I've never said that, as that would be virtually impossible to do!

I've changed the MAF. It still pings off a MAF fault code every week to two weeks or so which is cured by a VCDS reset, which is one of the reasons why I thought that all of the electrical gremlins were all interconnected. E.g. The Oil Temp Sensor that eventually fixed itself, the MAF fault code, the MMI issues (which has largely fixed itself and is now rare), the air-con faults (which also fixed themselves) etc etc...

The MAF fault code is:

000257 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 000 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 82
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 211394 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.01.02
Time: 22:25:09

I had figured that the implausible signal, was also "electrically" connected, as "implausible signal" is something that comes up with most of the other electrical faults that eventually clear themselves, and seemed to be connected to the voltage irregularities - which ultimately appears to have been the battery. I hope.

[rjsdavis]

I don't know it sounds like a load of hassle to me seeing as batteries do sit on shelfs for ages and sometimes are knackered when you buy them (that's why there's usually a warranty on them), I've took batteries back to a few places before and they have either just give me my money back or a new battery, when you cleaned your egr valve did you also clean the egr cooler? If you are already there anyway and doing it yourself? (I'm not sure) it would be worth doing

Sadly, I've got no choice! I have to sit and wait, as I need them to provide a replacement under the warranty. Can't believe the effed up process.. you should see the stinker of an email that I've just fired off to the MD of Volkswagen UK and copying in various exec's at Yuasa!

We cleaned the EGR valve, and the throttle body. I think the EGR cooler is the block on the opposite (Drivers) side of the block to the EGR and Throttle body? If it's what I'm thinking of, then no - we didn't. However, the mechanic is back on Sunday and brand new VDO EGR valve and throttle body have just arrived which cost ££££'s :facepalm:

They're both going on on Sunday. This time, the inlet manifold is going to come off too, and we're going to give that a bloody good clean... also the pipe that feeds round the back of the block from the EGR to what I think is the EGR cooler - we'll clean that out too. I guess this time, the EGR cooler would make sense to whip and clean also. Sounds like I'll need several extra cans of carb cleaner!

I'm hoping that the two new parts are going to sort this out. I can feel that the throttle body butterfly valve feels "different" to the one on the used one that I was looking at on Saturday - i.e. stronger and whips back into it's natural "open" position with far more purpose and force than I remember the old one doing. I'm hopeful, that ultimately, these two parts (EGR/TB) were just knackered and old, and just need replacing...

[Nard666]

Nope - I've never said that, as that would be virtually impossible to do!

I've changed the MAF. It still pings off a MAF fault code every week to two weeks or so which is cured by a VCDS reset, which is one of the reasons why I thought that all of the electrical gremlins were all interconnected. E.g. The Oil Temp Sensor that eventually fixed itself, the MAF fault code, the MMI issues (which has largely fixed itself and is now rare), the air-con faults (which also fixed themselves) etc etc...

The MAF fault code is:

000257 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 000 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 82
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 211394 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.01.02
Time: 22:25:09

I had figured that the implausible signal, was also "electrically" connected, as "implausible signal" is something that comes up with most of the other electrical faults that eventually clear themselves, and seemed to be connected to the voltage irregularities - which ultimately appears to have been the battery. I hope.

Erm yeah you did I asked if you had cleaned the maf your response was oh yes we cleaned the egr and Throttle body, its not impossible there's specialist cleaner available to do it and a couple of different ways to do it (Google would guide you as well as the cleaning product packaging) but if you have changed it then it doesn't matter and yes it does sound more electrical with implausible signal, yes exactly you have to wait it out if that's what they want to do but you are right sending a letter because it is bad practice for them to do what they are doing and considering as you bought from them so you had a easier time if there was a problem (as you told me)........ Rather than explain where the egr cooler is I will tell you to download /look at ssp 350 (Google volkswagon or audi ssp 350 and it will come up) from the sounds of what you are describing with the tube you are talking about the cyclonic oil separater, ssp 350 should show you your way round your engine it's for 3.0 tdi lump which is pretty much the same......

[Nard666]

Sadly, I've got no choice! I have to sit and wait, as I need them to provide a replacement under the warranty. Can't believe the effed up process.. you should see the stinker of an email that I've just fired off to the MD of Volkswagen UK and copying in various exec's at Yuasa!

We cleaned the EGR valve, and the throttle body. I think the EGR cooler is the block on the opposite (Drivers) side of the block to the EGR and Throttle body? If it's what I'm thinking of, then no - we didn't. However, the mechanic is back on Sunday and brand new VDO EGR valve and throttle body have just arrived which cost ££££'s :facepalm:

They're both going on on Sunday. This time, the inlet manifold is going to come off too, and we're going to give that a bloody good clean... also the pipe that feeds round the back of the block from the EGR to what I think is the EGR cooler - we'll clean that out too. I guess this time, the EGR cooler would make sense to whip and clean also. Sounds like I'll need several extra cans of carb cleaner!

I'm hoping that the two new parts are going to sort this out. I can feel that the throttle body butterfly valve feels "different" to the one on the used one that I was looking at on Saturday - i.e. stronger and whips back into it's natural "open" position with far more purpose and force than I remember the old one doing. I'm hopeful, that ultimately, these two parts (EGR/TB) were just knackered and old, and just need replacing...

Yes all that may help your performance not sure if it will solve your performance issues though (but fingers crossed an all that) and unless the throttle body has been carrying on running when shut off then it won't solve the drain issue

[rjsdavis]

Erm yeah you did I asked if you had cleaned the maf your response was oh yes we cleaned the egr and Throttle body....

Exactly. You've just quoted me correctly when I said that we cleaned the EGR and the throttle body. Not the MAF. Therefore, I'm confused, but let's leave it there, as it's not worth falling out over!

[rjsdavis]

Ok - we've made some progress...

This afternoon we popped on a brand new VDO EGR valve and brand new VDO Throttle Body.

In my professional opinion, the old EGR valve was f*****. When I tried to turn the butterfly valve, it simply wouldn't move, and was partly open when the valve was removed from the inlet manifold. I opened the valve up a little bit more with a screwdriver, but it required considerable force and then was stuck fast. I think it's fair to say that it was completely broken!

The old Throttle Body has clearly been worked on before and tampered with by someone. I've uploaded a pic of it below, and you see that someone has had the module cover off, and the seal has been pulled into some sort of completely incorrect loop where a small positioning notch in the seal should be. Given that someone had tampered with this before, and it looked as generally knackered as the EGR, we just changed both. The car dumped an almighty pile of soot on the driveway behind it at startup! Never seen the like.

Ok - first drive, all seemed to be well initially, and the car was driving normally. However, within about two minutes, and after I'd given it some (gentle, but firm) acceleration beans, I could the tell-tale turbo wastegate (I think) wail on the rev-down as I changed up a gear and the car's power disappeared. It went straight back into a limp mode again. The car was running, was idling fine, but revs were limited and there was no real power at all. Pullaway from standstill was now fine. There was enough to get it up a hill slowly, but that was about it. Took it back.

VCDS reported a turbo overboost error code - the error is pasted in below. Do any kind souls know what this means?

So... cleared the faults again (I had cleared all faults after the new EGR & TB had been fitted and before first test drive), and the mechanics initial thought was that this might end up clearing itself now that working EGR and TB were fitted. Advice was to go for a high-speed burn down the dual carriageway (rather than higher pressure accelerations) to clear all of the cr*p out of the system. We went to do this, but the car went back into a limp mode again accelerating (reasonably gingerly) up the slip road (which admittedly was up a fair incline) at about 2,500 RPM, and it simply wouldn't get passed 40-45mph again.

Went down a junction, came off and drove her back through the lanes. She felt "Ok'ish" on normal country lane type roads (other than not having proper acceleration available underfoot), but you could tell that she was still in a limp-mode and not right, albeit not as bad as the limp-mode from last weekend where she literally ran out of puff up a hill and broke down on me!

Got her home, and mechanic whipped off the airbox and pipes to look at the turbo. He was happy with the impeller, stating that it felt as though it span very freely in his fingers and had minimal play. Good news. He started looking at the wastegate and after a few minutes thought that this overly stiff and thought that it felt to him as if it was stiff and sticking, but he was trying to move it with a screwdriver and his finger, so access wasn't great. He felt that the pipe on the top of the vacuum was fine and was sucking as it should. He was also happy that all of the main large turbo pipes (which he checked before he took out the air pipes/box/filter etc) all apparently filled up nicely and felt firm to him.

Therefore, his initial conclusion was that this was an additional and not correlated problem, and that it was most likely to be either be the wastegate sticking and not operating freely, or a boost pressure sensor failure/issue. Are there any knowledgeable souls out there that know more about the turbo system and can shed any light on this and the VCDS data below? So frustrated. Really thought that the new EGR and TB would cure my engine problems and I'd be back driving again as of this afternoon! GGGRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!

There are no lights on on the dashboard, and this is the only present error code that the car is reporting...

000564 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0234 - 000 - Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition)
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 211838 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.01.21
Time: 11:47:39


Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2709 /min
Speed: 62.0 km/h
Load: 58.4 %
Voltage: 13.83 V
Bin. Bits: 00101000
Absolute Pres.: 2121.6 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 2590.8 mbar

PS - unsure if there's a continued battery drain at this precise moment. Keeping a very, very close eye on it for signs of excessive energy loss as she remains sitting on the driveway.

If it helps to diagnose - there was a prior turbo pressure log from a couple of weeks ago, but it was assumed at that time, that this was being caused by the EGR not working properly..

000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00110000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 10
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 211421 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2018.01.03
Time: 18:33:31


Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2184 /min
Speed: 51.0 km/h
Load: 62.4 %
Voltage: 13.60 V
Bin. Bits: 00101000
Absolute Pres.: 2223.6 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 1774.8 mbar


Readiness: 1 3 0 0 0

and this one from early December:

000564 - Boost Pressure Regulation
P0234 - 000 - Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition) - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00110000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 210148 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.12.18
Time: 10:50:28

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2709 /min
Speed: 62.0 km/h
Load: 47.5 %
Voltage: 13.60 V
Bin. Bits: 00101000
Absolute Pres.: 1856.4 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 2590.8 mbar

Readiness: 1 2 0 0 0


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