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Thread: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent

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  1. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #11
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    New batteries can be faulty, so take it back to the and get it checked. Also it could be an alternator fault, my alternator finally packed up this week, just waiting ton some nicer weather to change it.
     
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  2. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #12
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    Thanks - where is the best place to test the alternator output? The jump start connection points under the bonnet or do I have to start removing bits of bodywork??
     
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  3. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #13
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    You test at the battery with a voltmeter/multimeter

    Google can be your friend too!

    How to test your vehicles alternator using a multimeter. - YouTube
    XK8 96 Dyno'd at 305 and LPG converted, a mere 65ppl
    A6 07 3.0 quattro tip SE Limo, black,black leather/tints /black alloys/towbar/Alientech Eco Remap/quads/Rear DVD screens/Pogo Alert+
     
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  4. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #14
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    Thanks - so even without coding the battery to the car the battery should still charge? i.e. are there gizmo's or voltage regulators that might prevent the charge from getting to the battery?
     
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  5. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #15
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    Yes it will still charge, but always use the points under the bonnet to do this.

    As to the regulator

    Voltage Regulator - How it Works Part 1 - YouTube
    XK8 96 Dyno'd at 305 and LPG converted, a mere 65ppl
    A6 07 3.0 quattro tip SE Limo, black,black leather/tints /black alloys/towbar/Alientech Eco Remap/quads/Rear DVD screens/Pogo Alert+
     
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  6. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #16
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    Ok - engine off battery voltage 12.1v. Alternator output 14.1v so it looks like the alternator is ok, but still neither the old or the new battery appears to charge according to the MMI. After replacing the original Audi/Varta battery and running the car for 30 mins the battery voltage rose to 12.4v but MMI still showed just 1 bar. So now I think my options are:

    1. Both orig & new batteries are actually bust
    2. There is a current drain
    3. The MMI is incorrectly reporting the charge

    I'm thinking option 1 is the most likely at this point, though a bit thrown that the MMI did not show more than 1 bar at 12.4v (orig correctly coded battery).
     
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  7. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #17
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    If you have the opportunity then slow charge with something like a Ctek which can take a few days to condition and charge.

    Did you check the output under load and without?
    XK8 96 Dyno'd at 305 and LPG converted, a mere 65ppl
    A6 07 3.0 quattro tip SE Limo, black,black leather/tints /black alloys/towbar/Alientech Eco Remap/quads/Rear DVD screens/Pogo Alert+
     
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  8. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #18
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    Unfortunately I don't have a proper load tester, I just did the basic volts without load and it dropped back from 12.4 - 12.1 after a short time. Found this great clip How to Tell if Your Car Battery is Really Bad with Kent Bergsma: Battery Clinic Part 3 - YouTube
    A conductance test would very useful, but I don't have one of those either! I have taken the brand new (Lucas) battery out of the car and have it on the bench under a 5A charge so it'll take about 16hours. The orig. one is back in the car for the time being.

    What is weird to me is why did the new battery not charge (installed it Tuesday morning, drove to the airport Tuesday evening and it was down to 1 bar when I returned on Thursday then didn't charge at all on the 45mins drive home). I didn't code it but that shouldn't stop it. I'm assuming that the MMI battery meter is just going on output voltage (12.6=100%?), which shouldn't need any coding. If it's more intelligent and looking at conductance then yes, definitely it needs to know, but it's still not going to prevent the battery from charging.

    There could be a drain on the battery of course, not sure how I go about finding that out.

    For reference, here are the two battery specs:

    Original Audi (Varta):
    Capacity: 110Ah
    Amps: 520A

    Replacement Lucas Premium:
    Capacity: 90Ah
    Amps: 750A

    I'll put the fully charged new Lucas back in the car tomorrow and check the voltage across the terminals when the car is running. I'll also code it properly and see if that makes a difference.
     
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  9. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #19
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    Right - looking like it's a battery drain issue!! Fully charged battery outputing 13.0v at rest and the car is drawing 5.8Amps* with everything off and just the boot open. When I did the test whatever unit is in the boot above the battery (behind the panel) was clicking away adding about 0.5Amps to the draw.**

    Removing fuses SC12 and SC10 dropped the draw to about 3Amps ( I think these are the MMI and front display unit). Didn't find any other fuses that had an impact before I ran out of time but there are loads more to try. I could really do with a fuse/circuit diagram. I will post a help me in the main forum.

    The passenger door and boot were open for most of the test (boot the entire time) because they have to be to get at the fuses so I don't know how much of the draw is because they are open

    *This explains why the battery wouldn't charge off the charger because that only outputs 5Amps!

    **It stopped doing this when I put the proper negative terminal back - it clearly didn't like the multimeter in the circuit.
     
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  10. Re: Quiescent current stage 1 & 2 intermittent 
    #20
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    Looking at your volts at alternator and at battery ................ then there is a problem.

    My jump start point under the bonnet was going red hot and almost set the car on fire, burnt a hole on the bonnet insulation and melted the plastic round the jump start terminal and was so hot I couldn't touch it.

    Can you check yours with the engine running to see that it is not causing a resistance and not allowing full charge going to the battery.

    After the jump start terminal , the wire goes into a box in the scuttle area in front of the steering wheel, access is obtained by taking the window wipers off and unhooking the hard plastic which goes into the bottom of the windscreen.

    Check that this box is dry and all connections are clean. Also check the scuttle is dry and free of water.

    If you have 14.5 volts at alternator, you should have 14.0 and upwards at battery
     
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