Camshaft position sensor 2007 tdi

[Bracken]

My 2007 has had all new injectors and loom done by the dealer free about eightteen months ago. I think I was one of the first. They offered to replace only the one. Threating to torch the car on the forecourt and put it on the net seemed to work !! After the car ran fine for a couple of months I asked them to do the whole cambelt/water pump thing. £500 give or take and done in a day.
A few weeks back I had a few delayed hot starts and when I connected up the laptop discovered a camshaft sensor fault. Improbable signal it said.
Okay well that shouldn't be too much of a hassle. Yea right. For anyone that doesn't know to replace offending sensor requires removal of cambelt and by all accounts most of the timing end of the engine. Except it doesn't !
The dealer made some hums and haws when challenged about not giving me the option to have it replaced when the cambelt was done but was not going to budge on charging the full sum for doing the sensor !
Here's where my Nigerian engineering degree comes in. (on the net for a fiver !)
Get yourself a new sensor, some miniature female spade connectors from Maplins (£1:75 or so for 10) and a M6x50 bolt with a couple of nuts.
Remove the top cover of the cambelt and if you look under the most forward cam gear therein hides the sensor. A 10mm socket takes of the single bolt out and the sensor can be pulled of the block. BTW you don't want to drop anything into the cambelt area !! I used a magnet inside my socket to catch the bolt. Now cut the old sensor cable as close to the sensor head as possible. You'll need that piece of cable with its plug.
Cut the head of the M6 bolt and dress the threads. You need about 40mm length. Put a drop of your favourite threadlocker on one end and screw it into the block the same length as the bolt you removed. Mine screwed in with fingers.
While the threadlocker is doing it's stuff unplug and pull out the old cable from below the inlet manifold. A 10 year old with thin arms might be handy at this point !!
Bare the wires at the cut end and crimp on the spade connectors. ID the wires to the numbers on the plug. Use a meter or battery and bulb.
It might be a good idea to have the new sensor in a really warm place for an hour or so as you're going to have quite a bend on the cable as it leaves the sensor head when fitting. Fit the sensor ovet the stud you fitted earlier, Make sure it locates in with the hole in the block. Add washer and nut and tighten. If you really want to use the original bolt go right ahead. I just found the pre located stud so much easier.
Route the cable outwards to the direction of the engine mount and secure with a tiewrap. Needs about an 8inch one. Take the old cable with the spade connectors and using thin pliers push them on to the three connectors on the new plug. In the correct order of course !! I used some silicon grease as it takes a bit of effort and care. You don't want to bend the spades in the plug. Route the "old" part of the cable behind the manifold and plug in. Some tiewraps keeps all in place.
I cut a slot in the top cambelt cover to allow it to be refitted but you could just as easy leave it off.
Done a thousand trouble free miles now so very happy. Whole job took less than two hours including a quick nip indoors to have coffee and crimp the cables.

[geforce]

Mine has just gone so be looking into this.

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[Bracken]

Well I can tell you mine is still working as fitted per description. i.e. without removing cambelt. Probably done 75K since then.

New Mazda 6 arrives next week so wont be able to give further reports ! 250k on the Passat is enough !

Derek

[DMitch16]

Not a new process but a good explanation. Just to add alignment of the Hall sensor is very important as a slight variance will cause it to throw intermittent loss of signal codes. I have seen one pointing almost 45° from where it should be pointing.