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Thread: Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem

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  1. Re: Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem 
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    Similar problem here on A8 D3 4E 2003 model. Have removed the telephone module, updated MMI, but the 644 Battery Regulator is still showing static current of 0.3 -0.4A which is enough to kill the battery in a week or so.
    Faults indicated are 05-Acc/Start Auth all antennas open circuit, and 4F-Centr. Electr. II Alarm horn faulty.

    Does anyone know where the alarm siren/horn is? Much appreciated if someone can point me in the right direction to find it.
    I heard that the alarm horn has a rechargeable battery, which often dies and leaks. If it has gone short-circuit, it might draw a significant trickle charge current, and is always powered, with no visible fuse.
     
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  2. Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem 
    #12
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    Alarm siren is on top right of engine bay. Unclip the rubber gasket, lift the panel up and you will see the siren. My NiMH batteries had leaked, the alarm was going off intermittently. Have a new one to fit in the next day or two.
     
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  3. Re: Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem 
    #13
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    Thanks I found the siren and cut it open.
    As expected, the batteries had leaked all over the circuit board and power connector. I tried wiring in another battery pack but the siren is dead. The connector is also damaged, it looks burnt and parts of it are crumbling away. I think there was some significant leakage current going into this, which would have added to the background battery drain.
    It looks like a new siren is needed, maybe a new one, as a second hand one could have the same problem, unless they improved the design. Later parts have an "A" suffix, and are a different shape.

    The other issue I had with the keyless entry control box antennas was fixed by changing 2 MOSFETs as described elswhere in this forum.
    Static current readings from the Battery regulator are now 0.01A, so I think (fingers crossed) the battery drain problem is fixed.

    Thanks to all on this forum - a great source of information!
     
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  4. Re: Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem 
    #14
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    I've had a battery drain problem too, which culminated in the alarm problem of the siren going off all of the time when locking. I actually removed the siren and taped up the connector before going away for a business trip. when I got back to the airport after a week the battery module had shut down the MMI and central locking, but when I got into the car manually using the key, started no problem and everything came back up after about a minute. Maybe it can't go into shutdown mode if it can't get a response from all of the security modules?

    Anyway, my siren looked like this:



    This is the older version, the one on the left below:



    The one on the right is 8L0 951 605A, the A being the updated version. Much slimmer, though it still has NiMH batteries, not as some have said, Lithium Ion. So will it happen again in a couple of years? This 'A' version should be easily available, it is used in the TT, and A6 among others. I got it for €40 plus shipping from Germany, new from a dealer was €120.

    New 'A' version



    Keep the bracket as they are different between models, you might need to drill it out.

    The unit is sealed, bonded together pretty well, when I cut mine open this is what I found:









    Completely ruined, no chance of replacing batteries here... I think the big problem would be resealing the unit after changing the batteries, but the batteries are N3H170 - D38 (written on top). They are 22mm diameter, and 10.5mm thick. You need two. Better option is to get a new(er) sealed unit.

    I'll update with a part 2 when I've actually installed it, and whether it needs coding or not. Hopefully this is my remaining battery drain problem, it was much worse with the dodgy module in place, but with it removed the LED flashes quickly, then solid for 30 seconds, then normal one flash per second, so maybe it is staying active all the time. Day to day is not a problem, just leaving the car for a week in the cold. New battery and it has been coded, so it is not that.
     
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  5. Re: Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem 
    #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by bg7788 View Post
    Hi EG4.0TDI, thank you for your respond to my problem. Let me start with...the car is 3.0TDI with "bosch 110amp battery fitted". I have checked today in the fuses on both side driver and passanger but can not locate a fuse related to the keyless entry, do you KNOW which is the one I need to remove please?
    Also just to add something important which I forgot to mention on the first post.... when I am right to the car and try to lock the car, the car is locking it and just after 1 or 2 seconds the car unlock its self(does not matter if I lock it with the key or pressing the button on the handle) but if I am just say 3-4 metres away from the car and lock it with the remote key then the car does not unlock its self unless in the next 1 minute I get closer to the driver side only then the car unlock its self again......
    I dont know if this is still a problem, but is exactly what happened to mine. You need to work out which handle is triggereing the unlock by moving the key towards the front and rear on each side immediately after locking the car. In my case it was the rear passenger.
    the fault seems to be that the touch sensor is permananly detecting touch and so keeps the ECU awake, and immediately unlocks the car if the key is in range. The only fix is to change the handle.
     
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  6. Re: Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem 
    #16
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    Replaced the siren, that problem is solved and the door flashing LEDs now work as normal, but I still have a battery drain problem...
    It is a new battery, Bosch 110AH, put in about three months ago, but coded one number on from the Varta that was in there, as VCDS doesn't have Bosch in the dropdown menu (Replaced the battery before buying VCDS, so didn't know this)
    The problem is intermittent, usually only in cold weather, always overnight. Go to drive the car in the morning and the central locking is dead, I have to open the car manually. Always starts first time, even though when I go in and check the battery meter (Old software...) it says 0%... Isn't lazy turning over at all, so the Battery control module obviously thinks that the battery is low and cuts different systems, even though it is fine.
    I have an '04 4.2 petrol, no proximity sensors, it is not the siren (just replaced) and nothing showing up in VCDS apart from an engine solenoid now that the siren has been replaced.

    Either I need a new battery module, or the settings are wrong for the battery. Is there a way to set parameters manually in VCDS? What should I be looking for?
     
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  7. Re: Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem 
    #17
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    Mine too, I keep thinking it's fixed and then it does it again. But last night was worst ever, completely flat as a pancake. I do suspect a door handle as it is usually in cold wet weather and the car was covered in water and ice this morning. Sometimes when I'm washing the car with the key in my pocket, it unlocks and relocks without me touching the handles or even the car, I alsways assumes it was the button getting pressed in my pocket but of course I now realise it may be as somerandomguy said.
    Audi A8 - 2015 - 3.0TDI
     
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  8. Re: Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem 
    #18
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    My battery drain problem seems to have gone away now (touch wood). It was exactly as you say - central locking dead in the morning, especially during winter. The car started, but there were times when it was really struggling.

    This is what I did:
    1. Replaced the siren

    2. Repaired the remote key access module as described elsewhere, there were faults indicated on the antennas. There still are some faults as two of the door buttons don't work. You can look at the status of the door handle sensors and buttons using VCDS if you think they are causing the power drain. There is software in the module to detect if someone is "playing" with the handles to prevent current drain. You can also check if that has been activated through VDCS. Intermittent switching caused by water etc. should trigger this.

    3. Updated the MMI software to 5570. It was a very early version (0269), and there is a known fault with the radio/sat nav not switching off and draining the battery.

    4. Updated the satnav firmware with a new map DVD

    5. Replaced the battery. The "old" one was only about 14 months old. The new one is the Audi Varta one at £180.
    I think that being run down consistently damaged the old battery, so it would not charge correctly. When checking in the morning I often measured voltages as low as 11.6V, so the battery manager was doing it's job correctly by shutting down systems, like the central locking.
    The Audi battery manager is designed to preserve enough battery to start the car and get you out of trouble, but if it happens all the time the battery will be spending a lot of time in the discharged condition, shortening its life.

    Some say that the Bosch battery range is just rebadged Varta anyway, but Audi have their own specific one which may not be the same as the standard range. Coding for Varta is probably the closest though.

    You could see if your battery has gone the same way as my old one. Connecting VCDS and looking at the battery regulator measured values is a good way to do it. Connect VCDS, put the key in the ignition, and you should be able to access the module (61). Don't start the engine or you will loose the current readings.
    When the central locking was shutting down, I was measuring voltages as low as 11.6V - so the module was correct to shut down systems.

    If you start the engine, you can look at the charging current (Group 4) +ve for charging and -ve for discharging. Ignition on, engine off, about -11A, engine on charging about +20A
    With the old battery, the voltage rose quickly when the engine was running, up to over 14.5V, so the charge current would fall off. So after only 5-10 mins of engine running, the regulator would think the battery was charged. Turning the engine off, the voltage would quickly collapse to a low level again (around 12.3V).
    After taking the battery out of the car, I found exactly the same on a battery charger = damaged battery.
    The new battery gives a much slow rise of the battery voltage with the engine running, so charging is maintained until it is full.

    You mentioned you had "old software" for the MMI and I would check the version. I had to replace the battery in order to do the upgrade, as the instructions are that you should not start the process if the voltage is under 12.5V, and my 8A charger could not keep it topped up!

    Has been 2 months now with no problems, and has been in the Alps over Christmas at -10C
     
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  9. Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem 
    #19
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    Hasn't drained since...
    Think I hadn't driven it enough after changing the siren to charge the battery before it got very little driving over Christmas. Back to work and no problems, even with the car left for three days in the cold.

    So it looks like it was the siren - power drain trying to charge batteries in the siren that were corroded (see my previous post) then when I removed the siren the security system didn't go into sleep mode because it was missing, with a lower drain.
    This probably makes sense with what other people have seen with the proximity door sensors (which I don't have) - any missing or faulty security component/module seems to keep the system active, draining the battery.
     
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  10. Re: Audi a8 d3 4e.... Battery draining problem 
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    I've posted to another forum about my recent 'discovery' via my 'Non Audi' dealer, who found that there is a Battery management ECU firmware update for my car - a Nov 2004 MY2005 D3. My car keeps apparently thinking that my battery is low - "10% on battery meter" and turning stuff off while parked. MMI is at 5570. Battery tested as OK - original Nov 2004 Varta.

    Apparently MY2004 cars had a ECU with a non-upgradeable 0240 version [which doesn't have any faults]!. Later versions, from 0290 on, WERE upgradeable and my MY2005 ECU is currently 0390, a version that was subject of a 2009 Tech bulletin saying that it needed updating to 0510 due to various problems. This is an ECU update via a VAS, not an MMI update. CD Part is 4E0 906 961 G, which gets put in the VAS. Even if it's not the cause of this original problem, the 390 version has other issues too and may be worth checking on MY2005 on cars ...

    Julian
     
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