Dynamically Checking Fuel Pump Timing on 2002 Allroad 2.5TDi Automatic AKE

[ceilidhalfie]

Hi. I will soon do a cambelt change on this car and thought it a good idea to run vcds today to see what the timing currently is. With car runnig at idle I waited till vcds showed the coolant temp was above 85 degrees and then read off the timing settings as follows:
100%, retarded and 3.5 degrees.
So the timing is currently within spec (2degrees +- 2degrees). If after I change the belts and find the timing is now out - lets say the reading is 5drgrees retarded. How much should the injection pump pulley be turned to (in this example) advance the timing 3 degrees? The manual suggests the pulley be "turned a little" - I don't understand this technical statement!

[bagpipingandy]

Exactly as it sounds I'm affraid, with the 3 cam sprocket bolts loosened rotate the pump 1, 2, or 3mm in circumference, tightening cam bolts and re-check timing in vcds again, it may take a few goes to get exact spec, remembering each time how much you moved it the previous time

the pump can only rotate a little which is the clearance in the small slots in the cam sprocket & 3 Bolts,

Andy

[ceilidhalfie]

Exactly as it sounds I'm affraid, with the 3 cam sprocket bolts loosened rotate the pump 1, 2, or 3mm in circumference, tightening cam bolts and re-check timing in vcds again, it may take a few goes to get exact spec, remembering each time how much you moved it the previous time

the pump can only rotate a little which is the clearance in the small slots in the cam sprocket & 3 Bolts,

Andy

Thanks again Andy. I'm wondering - given the above reading is just in spec, I am assuming the current belt has stretched a little & thus the timing is slightly retarded. So when I fit the new belt as per the manual, I'm thinking of advancing it by rotating the pump clockwise "a little" by the process described. Or I am trying to be too smart?? (I am anticipating it is going to be retarded too much if I don't.)
By the way, I now have all the correct parts (but one). Got most from VWSPARES whose prices were very good. Gates for the 2 V-Belts, Ina for the 3 alternator belt relay rollers and the tensioner for the air-con v-belt. Febi for the cam belt tensioner-damper (ie the "grenade") and the water pump and thermostat. All for £240 delivered. The rest I got from Audi's TPS (o-rings, seals, bushes etc.) for £60. Only one problem - the Febi thermostat did not have the vent on it, so VWSPARES are going to send me another they will get from Audi. If you replaced your thermostat, can you remember if the new one had the vent? So looking good to start the job in about 2 weeks time.
Now off to again cross check all the new parts with ETKA and ELSAWin!

[bagpipingandy]

Set the timing bang on the spec,

I fitted a genuine Audi thermostat, you don't want to have to go back in there due to a failed one.

Andy

[ceilidhalfie]

Set the timing bang on the spec,

I fitted a genuine Audi thermostat, you don't want to have to go back in there due to a failed one.

Andy

Hi Andy. I now have a genuine Audi Thermostat to install. I am now 1 day into the job and have the bumper off, lock carrier in service position, radiator and engine drained of coolant. All hoses and connectors off. I can see I can now fully remove the lock carrier - ie. swing it like a gate with just the 2 ATF pipes connected (for saftey I also removed the right headlight). I will do this tomorrow after I remove and swing the condenser out of the way.
Before I packed in for the day, I had a look for the crankshaft locking plug. Have a look at the picture below. To me it looks like the Audi Dealer has replaced the normal plug with a large allen-headed bolt?? They did the last cam belt change at 75K miles so I am assuming it was them or it was built that way!. The green arrow in the photo points to where the sum plug is (just out of picture) so I think this is the correct location for the locking pion. I just would like a second opinion before removing the allen bolt.

CrankLock.jpg

Finally, it seems I am doing this job just in time! I see that the bearings on the tensioning roller for the compressor v-belt have completely gone and the belt is shredded (debris sitting on the noise insulation). So I had no air con working! This must have happened recently as it was working fine in the autumn when we were driving through France. I am hoping that the compressor is still ok.
From what I can see, the compressor seems to have 2 pulley wheels - one thin one in front of the one for the v-belt pulley. I am assuming that this is some sort of clutch mechanism in that the compressor is not always turning if the aircon is off (OR... the compressor pulley is knackered!). I will see when I get in there tomorrow.

[Crasher]

That is the correct factory fitted plug. It sounds to me like your A?C compressor has seized.

[ceilidhalfie]

That is the correct factory fitted plug. It sounds to me like your A?C compressor has seized.

Thanks for that Crasher. Can you explain why ETKA still refers to the plastic plug? I ordered a new (plastic) plug for this job as I heard that they can crack. I am just worried about other parts I
may order - I hope I am using the correct model in ETKA. See the attached ETKA page that shows it still being a plastic plug. Also, I can't find the part on ETKA so I don't know th e part no of
the o-ring I (assume) I need to replace with this allen bolt!

ETKA-Crankshaft-Lock-Location.jpg

[Crasher]

I think you need plug N 016 029 2 but in my experience all I ever need is the seal N 013 832 1.

[Alski2009]

I need to change my auxiliary belt tensioner soon. Changed the oil retention valves on my AKE. And now need to adjust the pump timing. This is a great source of information.

[adamss24]

The plastic plug is fitted on early engines, later engines came with the threaded hole and the metal screw in plug. As above, all you really need is the seal, although i never had one leak from there ! Check the aux. belt tensioner for wear as well whilst at it !