Front Brake Pads and Discs Change

[mrsudia6]

I have an Audi A6 C6 2005 54 plated Saloon SE. I have the brake warning on and I know its to replace front brake pads and discs.
Could anyone help me to determine:

1. Recognition of part numbers required
2. Any specialist tools needed with part numbers if poss
3. Places to buy
4. Instructions online to replace myself

OK I lie, it's my hubby who will be replacing, I'll just make the tea :-)

TIA

[sbt]

hi just because the brake pad warning light comes on does not automatically mean you need to replace the discs . the warning symbol you see on the dash is to tell you the pads are worn . as regards where to buy them from go on euro car parts web site and put your reg in this will give you part numbers and prices . i dont wish to be funny but if you need a guide to replace the discs and pads it may be better and safer to buy the parts and take it to a garage to have them fitted if you are not sure what you are doing you dont want to be messing about with brakes and it will only be about 2 hours labour

[mrsudia6]

Replaced hundreds of brake parts. (OK 30 or so) Seen the discs, they need replacing.
Only need guide to make sure. Euro parts quote £206, Audi charge £249. Rather keep the £42. And someone here might know somewhere where I could get them cheaper.
We are aircraft engineers, confident, just want to make sure job is quick. TIA

[towcestervag]

i dont use euro car parts unless stuck
get your parts from gsf ask for brembo discs and jurid pads good quality
the price youve been quoted seems steep?

[mrsudia6]

Yeah, will ring GSF today thanks. Will also ring Audi for a quote, need a service and MOT aswell!!
Thanks

[Eshrules]

OK I lie, it's my hubby who will be replacing, I'll just make the tea :-)

Replaced hundreds of brake parts. Euro parts quote £206, Audi charge £249. Rather keep the £42.

Yeah, will ring GSF today thanks. Will also ring Audi for a quote, need a service and MOT aswell!!
Thanks

I'm confused, is it you, the wife or the husband that's replacing parts here?

if the parts alone from ECP are quoted @ £206 and Audi are offering the parts (fitted presumably?) @ £249, the price is a no brainer.

I would listen to TVag re ECP though, I use them less and less - GSF or TPS are your best bet.

[apole]

Hi there,

The two I found were all german parts who advertise on here. They were the cheapest place I could find that did good quality parts.

Found another place that does Brembo ones also:

http://www.nextdaybrakes.com/info-pa....x=17&Car.y=17



Price will depend on exact model, for me the genuine parts were very expensive and with the labour ... hence widening the search.

I recall reading on here something about needing a good torque wrench so worth researching and making sure you have the tools and info to hand before you set out.

Andy

[gupsterg]

Hi, I have recently done all four discs and pads plus full service at home (oil filter & change + Pollen Filter + Fuel Filter + Air Filter) saved fortune compared to £1100 quote from Audi dealer used all genuine parts except brakes and pads which were Pagid kit. Eurocarparts got promo on at moment with 25% discount using code BRAKES25 so all four disc & pads(Pagid), Pagid Cera Tec and Pagid brake cleaner spray was £240 inc vat compared to Audi £464.

To do front there is a very good video on youtube link is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IRAP784Px4 or do search for "2008 A6 Brakes and Rotor replacement". Another good tip would be if the disc is seized on the hub and will not come off with a few light hits with hammer then use this method it is easier http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtsTJCRljAs or do search for "remove rusted brake rotors (easy for car or truck)" I went to local Halfords got two M12 Bolt and nut, M13 washer 6 pack and 2x M12 nuts.

You will also need a torque wrench which can do torque of 196nm on calliper bracket bolts and a 21mm socket. It is easier if you do one front side then the next. I used trolley jack to lift front from subframe and then put a axle stand under were the normal jacking point for doing front wheel change (check your owner manual). To get correct torque on calliper bracket bolt it is easier if you turn the wheel which you going to do to the opposite side before jacking car up. eg if doing right wheel turn to left and vice versa for other side. Calliper housing slider bolts use a 7mm Allen head socket and require 30nm of torque. Disc has one countersunk T30 Torx which only needs about 5nm.

To remove pads, remove calliper housing bolts pull complete housing towards you if your discs have a lip created from wear (like mine) as pad will not clear this. I used a g clamp with old pad still in place to push brake piston back, check brake fluid level as it will rise when you push piston back. It can be a good idea to have a plastic syringe with a bit of tubing to remove brake fluid from reservoir (got 50ml syringe from ebay). My fluid was at half way between Min & Max so when doing front did not remove fluid (pads were 80% worn) but once front were done did need to remove fluid when rear pads done.

On ebay there is a great tool which I will use for my next pad change as they say A6's eat pads and discs for breakfast
Tool Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-Pro...item1c1a84cf18

I found metal hanger wire was great to hook calliper housing to suspension whilst working on calliper bracket and disc. To be able to move calliper housing about easier not only must you disconnect brake pad sensor but next to that is the another rubber grommet with wiring through it you must remove that from bracket by levering it upwards from bottom. Do not let flexible brake fluid hose get strained as leakage can occur and you will have to replace.

Plastilube/Cera tec Use sparingly little is alot, only did area on inner pad were it contact piston, outer pad only did where back face contact calliper housing.

I cleaned hubs with P600 silicon carbide paper before putting discs on. Cleaned with brake cleaner. Was thinking of putting anti seize between disc and hub but then thought unless level would cause run out effect on discs spoke to an Audi Technician and was advised if they done discs they only clean hubs and put disc on.

Once pads disc change complete did wheel bolts at 120nm as per repair guide. Poured large coke with ice and marvelled at my handy work

Before doing test drive it is essential to start engine and pump brakes fully down and release 10 - 15 times before driving. You do not need VCDS/VagCom to do change of pads & disc on front. If you want service guide pages please PM me will scan and send to you. I can not stress enough that research and get right tools for job or you will put your and others life at risk.

AGAIN THIS IS ONLY WHAT I DID USE AT YOUR OWN RISK, COMMON SENSE WITH BRAKE CHANGE IS ESSENTIAL USE GLOVES HANDLING DISCS PADS USE FRESH GLOVES TO INSTALL PADS DISCS SO NO OIL/ANTI SQUEAL PASTE CONTAMINATE THEM. INVEST IN TORQUE WRENCH AS CORRECT TORQUE ON BOLT IS ESSENTIAL NOT ONLY IS IT YOUR AND YOUR PASSENGERS LIFE BUT OTHER ROAD USERS YOU ARE PUTTING AT RISK. DOUBLE CHECK ALL BOLTS

[sbt]

very sorry your orignal post did not come across as an experienced engineer would of wrote it please accept my appologies

Replaced hundreds of brake parts. (OK 30 or so) Seen the discs, they need replacing.
Only need guide to make sure. Euro parts quote £206, Audi charge £249. Rather keep the £42. And someone here might know somewhere where I could get them cheaper.
We are aircraft engineers, confident, just want to make sure job is quick. TIA

[sparkythecat]

Excellent reply from Gupsterg

I've just done this job myself.
You may find this thread helpfu in identifying part numbers
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...ads?&mid=21489