Allroad 2002 2.5 AKE Automatic Cambelt Change after 150K Miles

[ceilidhalfie]

Hi folks. I am presently getting the parts and tools together for a second cambelt change to my 2002 Allroad (first was done by Audi at 75K).
I will be changing 2 cam belts, 2 cambelt tensioners and a cam relay roller along with the water pump, thermostat and the 2 poly v-belts.
Given I will already be in there (and hope not to be there again for another 75K!), which (or all??) of the following should I also change:-

For the cam belt:
059 109 479 B Belt Tensioner Damper (quite pricey item!)

and for the Poly V-Belts:
059 903 341 A Relay Roller
059 903 341 Relay Roller (again quite pricey)
059 145 276 Relay Roller
059 260 523 B Tensioning Roller (again quite pricey)
059 145 284 B Damper

Again, thanks in advance for your advice.

[adamss24]

Go to your local ECP, i got a full SKF cambelt kit (gates cambelt and pump belt inside and Skf/Littens/INA rollers)` which includes the vibration damper for 240 quid today. Get the 2 aux. drivebelts and replace the pulleys/rollers on the aux. belt. Get a new water pump as well. I am rebuilding a v6 tdi AKE now, started working on it today in the morning. Replacing the cams with a full Kolbenshmidt camshaft kit, new rocker arms, valve spacers and INA lifters. I am fitting a new cambelt kit and every moving/rotating pulley whilst at it, the owner goes abroad for X-mas holidays and only brought it to me due to a noisy roller. Took the rocker covers off and noticed pronounced wear on the cams and rocker arms, some lifters were ok with hardly any wear at all. The previous cambelt has been changed late in 2008 by some garage which used genuine parts and the water pump (reconditioned) was allready leaking from the core plug + the cambelt's relay roller was leaking grease out. Also the cambelt was looking a bit sorry for itself ! It was replaced at 165k acording to the service book and the car is now approaching 195k... So much so for genuine parts !

[Crasher]

As adamss says, if you have no intention of going back in there, fit four new cams, 32 lever arms, 32 equaliser elements and 32 valve top caps together with all the other parts (seals, gaskets etc) needed. Before you start, make an appointment with your chiropractor...

[All-rod]

Before you start, make an appointment with your chiropractor...

Job is only worth doing if is done right...
I would start this after holidays are over, if I still had any ££'s left.

[luke1135]

Well the value of the vehicle will determine how many parts you change. You will need a cam and crank locking kit. If you look on ebay you can get them for £30 but expect a cheap one to be frustrating and fall out if you disturb the cam (ok by me for the price). You also need a tool to pull the cam gears off but universal one is fine and cheap. I wouldn't replace the cams unless they are proper ****** on a 9 year old vehicle but thats just me. I have recently done the job on an AFB engine and its fresh in my mind so let me know if you need any info although I'm no expert. You will need vcds software to get the pump timing right but you will get it close enough to run ok if you mark the injection pump in position (and then get someone to check the timing later).

[bagpipingandy]

Check the Large Aux Poly V belt, tensioner Pivot, for excessive movement, The pivot spindle can wear right through the ally bracket it pivots through, causing more cost. there are split bushes it pivots in which wear 1st, you can buy the bushes & selas to replace them very cheap £20 for all parts, pain to change but will give a new lease of life to the tensioner,

Andy

[ceilidhalfie]

Many thanks for all the replies and apologioes for the tardy thank you. I got a bit side-tracked this month - right-rear self-levelling sender failed (I have Ross-Tec VCDS). I replaced the part and then ran the adaptation twice and it all seems ok although the left side is still approx 6mm higher than the right (don't know if htis is an issue - ELSAWIN says tolerance is 5mm??).

Luke1135 - many thanks for your comments. ELSAWIN makes no mention of having to recalibrate the fuel injection pump timing. It says to inseret the locking pin WHEN ATTACHING THE NEW RIBBED BELT! I would have thought the locking pin should go in before the old belt is removed??? Anyways is recalibrating using VCDS easy/difficult? My VCDS level is 805 - not sure if ist supports this function! I guess ELKA win should have this documented somewhere. Will be in touch if I run into any issues.

I have had the car since new and it is still running (to my mind) as well as the day I got it. Re replacing the cams etc., I feel this may be a bit beyond me! Any comments on how I would know if the cams etc needed replacing (witout actually taking the head off!)

Bagpipingandy - I will also replace the bushes and seals you mention. Thanks for the advice.

Finally, I am doing this job middle of March. I have all the tools required and a genuine Audi cam belt kit. Now going to buy the above mentioned parts. Thanks agaihn all.

[Kyojitsu]

Unrelated to the cambelt change, if you have the front end off you might as well check the climate control sensors are working and that your auxiliary fan is ok (might be tricky in this weather). It's only replaceable with front removed and I wish I'd known that when my cams were replaced!! I assumed it was a refrigerant leak problem causing my air con to stop working, rather than a cheap fan part that was burnt out.

[Crasher]

ELSAWIN makes no mention of having to recalibrate the fuel injection pump timing

On the contrary, right at the end of section “Removing and installing toothed belt” it says “Dynamically check and adjust commencement of injection → Rep. Gr.23”