NM problem (anti-knocking sensors)

[baihui]

HI Scotty

I have some updates

I've tried with other working ECU - nothing
I sent the car and checked the crank shaft and the other shafts if they were correctly aligned with the belt, - all is ok
I bought new fuel pres. regulator and replaced the genuine one. There is change now, but again the car cannot hit 7.2 rpms and dies on about 6.2 however there is no loss of power when it passes 4 rpms, but the gas consumption is even more and now the car acts as there is no airflow regulation valve when when no throttle is applied. The rpms are going down to ~500 up to 1000 constantly. I guess this is due to the vacuum hose, no ? The regulator is after market one, but there is a small hole for the vacuum and it is connected, but why does this happens ? One other thing, it also has manometer on it, and guess what, it is stuck on 0 bars. If I open it (anti-clockwise) a lot, the arrow starts moving from 0- 1.5 bar so frequent you can barely see it and I know for sure that it should be almost steady on 2.5 bars. If I close the valve (clockwise) the arrow on the manometer stops moving on 0 bars. So any suggestions ?
One more thing, I found in ETKA one part in the fuel lines or so, that is called Accomulator ?!?! What is this for and could this be the reason for the problem in the pressure ? I also wonder if the pressure is indeed low does it mean that the gasoline consumption will be high ?

Looking forward for your reply Thanks

[kavven]

Hi there Baihui!

Did you find a solution to your problem?
I'm having an Audi Coupe Quattro behaving the exact same way.
Generating an error on the rear knock sensor. Battery removal clears the error code and the car runs better until i rev it too high.

I'm about to try the following things.

- Shift knock sensors
- Clean ICV
- Check oxygen sensor

Br,
Daniel

[baihui]

Hi,

in fact I did. The problem I had was due to overheated engine resulting with damaged segments, so nothing from the mentioned above. But I if you doubt the knock sensors, the most easiest test you can do is to remove them from the engine, take a wire, wrap them and connect the wire to the minus of the car, or simply directly to the car. But the knock sensors MUST be connected with the wires to the ECU. By doing so you will have them running, also the ECU will think that they are still on the engine, however they won't detect any knocks if presumably damaged. Try this and see what happens. I have knocks for sale if you are interested, working for sure !

Cheers,

[kavven]

Hi Baihu!
Thank you for your reply.

I've PM'ed you.

I switched the connectors to the knock sensors and voila, the fault code moves.

Knock sensor malfunctioning.

PM me, I wish to buy a knock sensor from you.


Br,
Daniel

[kavven]

Baihui, I cannot send PM's. Too few forum posts. Email me, cav ( a ) tgk.net.

Thanks again!

[yadi]

Hello,

I have the same problem with NM code engine, both knock sensors are out of order and i would like to find a new one but i cannot read the numbers from the sensors because they are too old and in a bad condition. Can somebody help me to write down the numbers? They are red and white not blue and green.
Thx.