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  1. Seized ball joint 
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    I have currently racked up 3 full days trying to replace my front suspension. I am now having terrible trouble with the final ball joint.

    The tappered joint on the track control arm wont budge. I have tried heating it, plus gas and smaking it with a hammer, it wont budge. I have tried a couple of ball joint seperators but because of the tappered joints I can't get one to fit. The top of the ball joint is 24mm and the wheel bearing housing is aluminium.

    I wanted to try an air hammer but can't find a hammer attachment, all I have are chisels.

    As far as I can tell my options are to try and grind one of the ball joint tools to fit and hope that frees it or to completely remove the wheel bearing housing. With the housing removed I can have better access and can heat it up loads without worrying about damaging the CV boot. Trouble is I will have to put the suspension back together to drop the car onto its wheels to release the hub bolt.

    The control arm is being replaced anyway so doesn't have to survive the removal procedure.

    Any other suggestions?
     
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  2. Re: Seized ball joint 
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    You should try a can of Loctite Schnell - Restloser ( Freeze & Release ) There is also a pro version available at some motor factors. Regards Peter
     
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  3. Re: Seized ball joint 
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    Cheers Peter, I have ordered a can of that and will give it a go.

    I've also started to grind out my laser ball joint seperator, hopefully I can get that jaw wide enough to fit on the joint.
     
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  4. Re: Seized ball joint 
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    It's out, it's out!!!! Woo hoo.

    Took a whole can of Loctite Schnell (yes the whole can), some Plus Gas, lots of heat, I made a little heat shield for the CV boot so I could go for it with the heat. Two hammers and lots of whacking, don't think I am very popular with the neighbours now.

    Cheers for the suggestion Peter
     
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  5. Re: Seized ball joint 
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    Did you use it correctly, Shake very well and squirt for 10 seconds then leave fo 1 to 2 minutes. I used some yesterday on a smaller job, a complete seized front calliper bleed nipple and sure enough it released no problem. Glad you have released it. Regards Peter
     
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  6. Re: Seized ball joint 
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    Hi Peter, yeah I followed the instructions on the back of the can. Funny thing is when the tapper finally came out there was hardly any sign of corrosion on it. I guess 9 years and 116000 miles of potholed roads had just driven the tapper very tightly in to the seat.

    Can I ask, why do they have tappers on the ball joints, what is the benefit of them and why don't all setups have them? Just interested.

    Thanks again.
     
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  7. Re: Seized ball joint 
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    A taper is the most secure engineering joint you can have. As a safety critical item the tapered joint is most appropriate. A self locking and retaining joint first devised and defined my Morse, the Morse Taper machine tools, end stocks, chuck assemblies, etc.etc. Regards Peter
     
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  8. Re: Seized ball joint 
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    Cheers Peter, interesting stuff.
     
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  9. Re: Seized ball joint 
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    Quote Originally Posted by iwaters View Post
    I've also started to grind out my laser ball joint seperator, hopefully I can get that jaw wide enough to fit on the joint.

    Bit of a thread revival, but looks like the best place to post...

    One of the ball joints on our 2008 Touran was a real pain to remove this w/e. After 3h or so of hammering, heating, etc I ended up popping out to get a a Laser "hinged" / scissor remover. The "slot" was too narrow to go around the lower part of the joint even with the gaiter ripped out, so as mentioned above I had to grind it a bit wider to be able get a good grip on the stud head in the concave upper part. Joint was still resisting and I thought the almighty bang was the tool snapping, but it was actually the taper finally coming out. Then it all want back together with a new one nice and easily .
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