Re: Balance shaft/timing job
Kudos to DMitch as they're his instructions .
Is your BKP definitely geared ?
Re: Balance shaft/timing job
That's what i need to find out. i replaced the engine so vin number wouldn't work. i cant hear any chain rattling. but is there any date of manufacture on the engine? i do have the latest C revision head on the engine unlike the previous porous heads so unless the head was replaced it should be a 2006 or newer engine which would have the gear. I may call KMB on monday and they may have a method of finding out. But lets say it is a geared balancing shaft, can you help me answer some of the questions in the OP please.
Re: Balance shaft/timing job
KMB list the BKP as chain but my father's and many others were geared .
Best method is a sump off visual .
Geared
http://rs222.pbsrc.com/albums/dd20/C...h=480&fit=clip
Chain will be chain as so .
http://rs222.pbsrc.com/albums/dd20/C...h=480&fit=clip
Kudos to Stevie C .
Re: Balance shaft/timing job
looks like the crank gear is behind the block wall, i wonder how it attaches to the crankshaft. Hopefully the gears i have aren't chewed up, KMB sell them at £100 each which I a lot for a gear.
Edit: the crankshaft itself has a gear on it so it attaches internally.
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/8e/9a...7ed8649418.jpg
Re: Balance shaft/timing job
Firstly the timing belt does not have to be removed for the balance shaft job only the auxilliary belt pulley and timing belt covers. Secondly you should identify whether your BKP has gear or chain oil pump drive by removing the sump. The 3 larger gearbox to sump bolts are slightly covered but very easy to remove with the right sockets and a range of extension lengths (I have 6 ranging from 4 inches to 16 inches in length - the smallest are about right but I also mix 3/8ths steppers onto 1/2 inch sockets if I need a different length of extendability as my 3/8th socket rachet handle is very strong). No need to remove gearbox. If gear driven and unless there is damage to any of the 3 gear cogs, crank, intermediary or primary you will not need to remove any of them. The lash between the primary and intermediate gears should be perfectly fine provided you DO NOT undo any of them. This simplifies the balance shaft job which I have just done again on a BMR engine (2 weeks ago). If converting from chain to gear driven then those instructions would be appropriate.
Note on the balancer unit itself once removed - have a bench or table available covered in thick absorbant cloth or thick kitchen roll (not the cheap stuff as it tears and breaks up - you don't want little bits inside when you reassemble) or a long rectangular plastic tray with absorbant pad in the bottom. Have a card ready to put the bolts through in the same order as removed so they are refitted correctly. There are a number of threaded closed holes into which the unit retaining bolts fit - clean the bolts with brake or carb cleaner and the oil out of these holes before reassembly as this will provide a better grip and no counter pressure when tightening. Never clean such items with oil channels using tissue.
The alignment of the shafts are as you pictured and they self level due to their counterweights so when fitting the replacement just angle the first shaft a touch in situ and apply the replacement and a little rotational movement should mesh the gears and leave them level. If they are not level simply repeat until the flat side of the shafts are level with each other as per the photo. Fill the oil channels with fresh oil using an oil can if you have one and assembly lube to the shells. Clean the oil from the mating surfaces of the unit halves before refitting - you should be able to identify which surfaces these are but leave all else oily. If any shells pop out clean them and the journal into which they fit with brake cleaner and ensure both are totally clean and dry when refitting. After refitting apply a small amount of assembly lube across the top of the shaft gears and on the shell surfaces. I use Millers assembly oil as it's fairly thick but not overly so.
Tighten the bolts holding the 2 halves together firmly - there is no published torque for these so a medium 'grunt' is sufficient - they should be pretty tight but not blood vessel bursting tight. I am fairly strong and doing them up tight with a regular ratchet handle and not straining is enough.
If you have any questions PM me and I will help you through the job. I did my timing belt a few thousand miles ago also if you are planning to do this too. I did not renew the tensioner stud as it was still tight and straight. I did this early too as the belt was 4 years old and only completed 75k not the 95k mileage limit.
Re: Balance shaft/timing job
That's great news, i'm glad i don't have to fiddle with the timing belt and the gears of the BS. From what i understand, when I remove the balancing shaft, the intermediary and primary gears are attached to the balancing shaft, so when I reinstalll it, I need to put crank gear TDC mark at the main crank gear as shown above and then mate it with the crank gear. At what point do i use the balancing shaft timing tool? is that just to show that both shafts are level? won't i know that when the notch the tool goes into is at 12 O clock? If there's no official torque spec for the bolts that bolt the BS to the sump then what are those figures that i posted above?
This is for NEW balancer unit to cylinder block bolts (if you are not renewing them do not use these settings):
M7 bolts - Stage 1 is 13 Nm (10 lbf ft) and Stage 2 is further angle-tighten by 90 degrees
M8 bolts - Stage 1 is 20 Nm (15 lbf ft) and Stage 2 is further angle-tighten by 90 degrees
Thanks for the offer of additional help, I most definitely will need it. I will PM you when i get started. most likely i will start within a month but i can already hear the turbo rattling time to time as random oil pressure drop. i think its the turbo, i hope not!
Re: Balance shaft/timing job
Bolts (12 or 13 of them iirc) holding the two halves of the BS unit together have no published torque. Those 8 bolts (2 x M7 and 6 x M8 bolts - 2 lengths for the M8 of 5 bolts of longer length and one short) holding the unit to the block are torqued as listed.
The timing should stay locked at TDC for the entire duration of the balance shaft job. When offering the BS to the block the shafts unless locked by the alignment pin tool would be free to rotate so you apply the pin tool to the unit hold it in place and lift the BS up to the block. The intermediary gear will automatically mesh into the right place against the crank gear if you keep the alignment tool held tight to stop the shafts moving. Only remove the pin tool AFTER the unit is bolted up and there is no need to mark any gears as location is set by timing tools and shafts alignment pin tool. Needs 2 to do it - believe me!
Re: Balance shaft/timing job
Instead of removing the whole balance shaft, can you not remove half of it with the bolts that have no torque specs? Okay, I understand but it'll make more sense when you answer the above question. I am going to do a trial on my old engine of putting timing in TDC, removing sump and taking off balance shaft and then re-installing everything. If I take the sump off my engine that I have in my car and find out its a chain it'll be a nastier surprise than me going to Thailand and pulling a 'ladies' skirt down lol.
Re: Balance shaft/timing job
Quote:
Originally Posted by
DieselMonster
Instead of removing the whole balance shaft, can you not remove half of it with the bolts that have no torque specs? Okay, I understand but it'll make more sense when you answer the above question. I am going to do a trial on my old engine of putting timing in TDC, removing sump and taking off balance shaft and then re-installing everything. If I take the sump off my engine that I have in my car and find out its a chain it'll be a nastier surprise than me going to Thailand and pulling a 'ladies' skirt down lol.
Interesting theory but looking at the photos of my unit, taking off just the lower half will disturb the primary and intermediary meshing of the BS gears when the primary shaft comes away with the bottom half which means you will definitely need to take more time and ensure the gears are refitted allowing the correct mesh of the shafts and gears leaving the proper backlash. The top half bolted against the block also primarily holds the shafts and has the oil channels plus the pump itself and in my opinion would be a much harder and precise job (I have done 5 of these now and all have been relatively stress free, the engines started and running well despite disturbing the gears and factory set tolerances). Even when you do split the unit you do not want to disturb the primary shaft or its mesh with the intermediate gear. You would also never get the oil to stay in the channels machined in the top half only which faces down and I have never refitted a unit with empty oil channels in case the first minute where oil has not reached the BS unit scores the shells for which there are no available replacements although the assembly oil should give the engine a few minutes grace. The bottom of BS unit is however bathed partly in the sump oil but I'm not sure by how much.