We have to to be able to move the box back far enough from under the scuttle to allow you to lift out the matrix. The last car I estimated on this job ended up being scrapped, it was just not worth it.
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We have to to be able to move the box back far enough from under the scuttle to allow you to lift out the matrix. The last car I estimated on this job ended up being scrapped, it was just not worth it.
I forgot to post an update on this. I did the job in a few evenings with 1 full day too. All in, I think I put 20 hours into it. Should have been 16-17 hours, but I left a piece out, so it added a few hours!!!! I got 45% of the way through it (just before I revealed the matrix) and started to panic, and wonder what the bloody hell I'd started.
At a few points, I required assistance from my mate who was around working on his car. I'd say it would have been a lot harder to do it all on my own, mainly because I got stuck a few times, ie bent over backwards with a steering column on top of me, and no strength to lift it (I was knackered, lol)
Whilst under the dash refitting the airbag on the passenger side, it fell out of place, and landed on my head, that hurt a lot, so be careful! [emoji23]
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I've got a Passat B6, will i need to tear out all the dashboard or just wiggle it out from the footwell? From what I understand I will need to disconnect the two pipes at the engine bay so once I remove the pipes in the footwell, coolant doesn't spill everywhere, is that correct? Why else would you disconnect from the engine when you can disconnect the pipes at the heater matrix. The issue I have is it blows very little warm heat. I also have another issue of their always is cold air coming in at the passenger footwell regardless of position of the blower.
There aren't any pipes in the car. The 2 pipes sticking through to the engine bay are on the back of the heater matrix. That's how far behind the day it is!!!! [emoji23]
The cold air in the foot well sounds like a disconnected pipe/ducting or a broken pipe. I would say first job for you, is remove the glove box completely, and see where the cold air is coming from. If your blower isn't making it to the heater matrix, it could explain it all. Your matrix could be OK.
That is all my guesswork by the way, but it makes sense to me, and would save you lots of time and effort!!!!!
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Okay I understand. When I put the blower on there is always a lot of blower noise coming from passenger side. Is that cos air is leaking out or because the blower is located there?
Okay, I'll have a look and see what can be done. Thanks
Hello all, new to this forum. I have an 2005 A4 B6 Cab 1.8T RHD Manual.
I'm getting small loss of coolant over time, brief odd smells from the heating and occasional incorrect heat (too cold but when I turn it all the way up or down and then back to the required temp it seems to work fine again - this happens rarely) and I am getting quite damp carpets on the RHS, front and back, particularly when I use the heating a lot i.e. roof off on a cold day.
My assumption is there is a leak somewhere in the heating system inside the car (no sign of leaks in the engine bay) or my heat exchanger has a slight split.
Some questions if I may to try and understand where I'm at?
1. With only an occasional coolant top up, the current situation is fairly tolerable but I assume this needs sorting pronto as it'll damage the floor of the car under the damp carpets plus it'll only get worse?
2. Will it get worse in the warm summer weather with the cooling system having to work harder or will it be better as I won't be using the heating system so much?
3. Whilst I'm comfortable doing basic servicing (fluids, filters and brakes) I've never attempted anything like this - is it worth trying or should I get it done professionally? The car is 13 years old but only has 54k miles on it.
4. How much is it likely to cost professionally? It still has a Warranty-Assist policy on it from the dealer which I'm going to check out but I suspect it won't be covered.
5. If I have a go myself, are there any other pipes or areas inside the driver's foot-well I should check for possible leaks or is it "just" a case of swapping out the exchanger for a new one as per the procedure above?
6. Once re-assembled, to bleed the system do you just refill it, run it with the pin hole in the heater exit pipe by the battery exposed until coolant comes out and then re-clamp or is there more to it?
7. If I want to drain and flush the whole system does the bumper / front of the car need to come off or is there a pipe somewhere I can disconnect?
All advice gratefully received. The instructions in the link suggest it is doable, albeit a total pain! Mind you, the amount of questions I have suggest I'm probably out of my depth!!
Cheers, Simon.
I can't comment on your particular model, but the layout of the A4 is similar across the different models. Do you have a Haynes manual? Or have you found an online guide for your car? It's not worth trying without it, as there are so many nuts, bolts, screws, clips, plugs etc. I have been tinkering with cars for years, and I must say that this job was on a par with changing the cambelt on my 2.8 V6 I had. I was overwhelmed with the work involved, and I had a very good friend who is a fully qualified mechanic working close by for assistance if required. I got 45% of the way in and thought *** have I started!
However, I was very impressed with myself, and satisfied once done. Even if I was physically, mentally, and emotionally wrecked after a very long day at it [emoji23]
Coolant is drained from the bottom of the rad, its easy to spot.
When refilling, you stick it all back together, start filling up with the engine running and leave the filler car off. It won't be under pressure, so it won't squirt out everywhere like it does if you take the cap off a hot rad.
The big question is, where is your heater matrix. If its where mine was, there is no easy way. But I've heard some are a bit easier to access.
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Remarkably, the warranty covered it and the heat exchanger has been replaced. The warranty company didn’t use Audi specialists so I think they found it quite a struggle.
Annoyingly it has come out with the traction control light coming on frequently. According to their diagnostics it a calibration issue?? They’ve said drive the car for a bit and it may sort itself out otherwise bring it back to them and they’ll sort it under the original warranty claim. Hmmm....