Hi,
I'm having some intermittent problems iwth the immobilizer on my 1996 Audi A4 TDI 110. Is it possible to disable it with VAG.com?
Thanks
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Hi,
I'm having some intermittent problems iwth the immobilizer on my 1996 Audi A4 TDI 110. Is it possible to disable it with VAG.com?
Thanks
Only if it is an after market, the factory fitted immo can not be disable.Not unless you get one of these car thieves to do it, they seem to be able to do the impossible
I had one of my customers asking this very same question last week. If you could disable the immo at any given time, it wouldn't be much of an immobiliser TBH...
you're better off addressing the issue rather than trying to simply de-activate it.
another thing to bear in mind, is the impact this may have on your insurance, many companies consider their insurance void if a vehicle is fitted with an immobiliser which fails to function :Blush:
If you have immo2, a working key and your 4 digit SKC (immo pin) you may be able to perform an 'emergency start' without vagcom.
You input the key code through the instruments.
(your 96 instrument cluster may not support this function)
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q_h...mo2.htm#recode
It is only of use on a very limited number of cars, and will get you to a garage if your reader coil breaks.
Thanks for the replies.
The problem is cold starts. The car starts fine from warm, but cold starts now usually take 2-3 extended attempts to start. This started out as a rare problem but now is more often than not. Bizarrly the car seems to start better in very cold or wet conditions! I get the error below on vag.com which led me to believe it could be the immobiliser. Could this be the cause and what can I do to rectify it? Many Thanks
John
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 028 906 021 CE
Component: 1.9l R4 EDC 00SG 0803
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 06435
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Address 25: Immobilizer
Controller: 4A0 953 234
Component: IMMO AUZ9Z0T1679690 D76
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00011
1 Fault Found:
01176 - Key
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
The immob fault is probably a one off.
If the starting problem is the immobiliser, the engine will start for 1 or 2 seconds and then stop.
Your problem could be air in the fuel lines, coolant temp sensor, starter, battery voltage & earth, timing, temp sensor or glow plug fault.
(Start by checking for air in the fuel lines, weak battery, glow plugs, and coolant & fuel temp sensors)
First things first, your battery 'must' be ok, and fully charged, as the car will not fuel the cylinders if the cranking rpm's are below a certain threshold.
Your fuel filter must also be ok (not ancient and blocked)
If the glow plug light is coming on as normal, the main glow/afterglow heating is probably working ok.
Disconnect your coolant temp sensor connector, and see if it starts up faster. This will cause the car to slightly raise the cranking rpm's and keep the glowplugs on for longer. If it starts easier there is a problem with the glow plugs/harness/connections or possible slight compression or weak battery/starter problem.
Also check that the ambient air temp displayed on the dash is more or less correct.
Worn glow plugs (tips look solid carbon black when removed) or one or more dodgy glowplugs can stop the car starting.
You can remove the glow plugs from the block in turn, reattach the power, rest them somewhere heat resistant and test, the tips should glow white hot during main glow phase.
If you are getting smoke (white) on cranking, at least some fuel is getting through.
If the timing is off, generally slightly retarded, fuel injection is taking place at the wrong time for proper heat/combustion to occur.
Also loosing pressure from one or more worn piston rings will have the same results, low pressure causing low temps, causing non-combustion.
Basically, if your car has good cylinder compression, the static injection timing is within range, the glow plugs work ok, and it is recieving good fuel it will fire up.
Do not discount a worn/binding starter motor or a bad contact/earth.
Air in the fuel lines will also cause cold starting problems. It is generally from a leaking fuel connection/junction before the pump, and has a big damping effect on the pressure waves from the pump. This can result in pressures at the injectors too low to inject fuel.
Extended cranking can be needed to pressurise the 'bubbles' sufficiently for injection to take place.
If you have air in your fuel lines, i would eliminate this problem first. The pump will naturally purge any remaining air once the leak is stopped.
If you cannot solve the root cause of the problem, and you have an electronically controlled fuel pump (drive-by-wire) you can use vagcom to increase the fueling on startup, and extend the glow plug main glow phase. This will greatly help the car to start (more pressure and heat)
See these threads for more info:
(General start & cold start)
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=199398
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=121675
Hot start problems (may be useful)
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=749854
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=123304
Is it just me, or are the VAG immobilisers absolute rubbish?
Mine intermittently refuses to start, sometimes for a few hours and then other times start every time on the first turn of the key. If I don't see that blooming flashing car with a key in it one more time that will be too much!
Maybe it is just 52 plate Seat Ibiza 1.9tdi that have this problem, but having looked around there seems to be a few people complaining of similar issues.
Cheers,
Gary.
Before thinking about the Immobilizer, your scan indicates a low battery issue. Low battery output and high stater current draw will affect the immobilizer. Test the battery, B+ and B- connections. Test the alternator for AC ripple. High AC ripple will also affect the Immobilizer and inter-connected systems. Can the Immobilizer be disabled? Yes it can directly inside the ECM. As for car thieves doing this, so does the dealer, just to solve one problem. I guess that known feature makes them a thief as well. The Eeprom can be adjusted to indicate an Immobilizer OFF status. That is a good test but I would re-enable the status after correct repairs.
I managed to get to the bottom of the problem before I got rid of the car, it was basically a bad connection at the connector that went into the bag of the dials, 1 or more of the multiple wires going into the back of the connector were not making sufficient contact, this was temporarily solved by tugging on the bundle of wires, with a permanent (ish) fix of cable tying the wires just before the conenctor in such a way as if you were pulling down in the bundle of cables as per the temporary fix.