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Hi all.
Central locking from both the remote key and manual key (turning in drivers door) seems slow. A VCDS scan brought up a fault code (possible leak)
When I turn the key manually in the drivers door lock it's extremely stiff but it does turn and unlocks and locks.
My questions are ; will this eventually lead to complete failure and with it not being able to get into boot and the other three doors? How much for a fix/new pump?
Thanks!
I think your locks are similar to mine, which don't have remote locking, but have the same locks and actuators.
Do both the remote and manual keys lock and unlock all the locks properly? Is it just the driver's door which is stiff? Is the lock also stiff if you unlock from the passenger door?
The manual key turns a driver plate at the end of the lock cylinder. The plate has a lever which moves a rod connected to the actual lock, and gear teeth which turn a small pinion to simultaneously operate a microswitch.
The microswitch contact runs the vacuum pump in the Comfort Control Unit, which provides suction, via flexible plastic pipes, to operate the other lock mechanisms at the same time as the key is unlocking the lock which it is in.
In your case, it seems to me that there could be a fault or a leak in the vacuum pump or piping, or that the locking mechnisms in the door catches are stiff.
EDIT: The fact that the driver's door key is stiff suggests that the locks themselves are stiff, so is also difficult for the suction system to move them.
Thanks for that! It only has a lock on the drivers door so my worry is that if the lock fails I can't get in the car as there is no other way in!
The remote key opens and locks the car but the boot latch button on the remote key doesn't seem to work. When I've got some time at the weekend I'll try lubricating the drivers door lock and see if it helps.
I think you must mean it has a key operated lock only on the driver's door, as all the doors have locks:)
So your passenger, rear doors, and boot/tailgate lock only via the remote, or by pushing down the interior buttons?
Whether or not there is a key mechanism, manual lock operation is probably similar to mine.
The suction lock operation is inherently slow compared with the more common electrically operated system. My driver door unlocks immediately using the manual key, although it is slightly stiff to turn, but the other locks take a second or so longer. I can hear the pump (inside the Comfort Control Unit in the back of the car) running while the lock buttons go slowly down.
My doors all lock simultaneously by turning the key in the lock on the driver door, passenger door, or tailgate, or by presssing down the interior lock button on either the driver or passenger door. The button on each rear door locks only that door.
The fuel filler flap locks together with the doors.
Lifting the interior door handle once on either the driver or passenger door unlocks all the doors, a further lift is required to open the door.
A single lift on either rear door unlocks only that door, also needing another lift to open it. That rear door will stay unlocked if it is then closed (so you can't lock yourself out by locking from the front, climbing over to the rear and getting out from there)
Turning the key in the tailgate lock a small amount to the right locks everything normally. Turning it all the way to the right also locks everything, but all the other doors, tailgate, and fuel flap, remain locked when either the driver or passenger door is unlocked. All the doors can be unlocked in the normal way from the tailgate lock, or each one individually.
The driver and passenger windows close when either of these doors is locked, if the key is turned further than the usual amount to just lock the doors.
So, judging by the slight delay on my car, if your doors all lock within a second or so, that system is probably OK, and the only problem is a stiff locking mechanism or key barrel on the driver's door.
Unfortunately the locking mechanisms are inside the door trim panels, which are a bit of a sod to get on and off (on my car, at least):(
To cure the stiff lock have you tried spraying lube into the key hole?Quote:
Originally Posted by jacksticks
yeah, seems a little easier now.Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdy-999
Thanks for all that! Yes, only a key on the drivers door - all the doors have locks! The remote key seems to operate all the doors and unlocks the boot lock, but when I try the boot lock button on its own it doesn’t open. Possibly the way the key has been programmed. Thanks again for all the help.
That likely leak code has come up on just about every 8D series A4 I have ever code read.
That's good to know!