Ignition Switch Fault?

My Passat refused to start... the engine would turn nice and strong but refused to fire. Checked for a spark and found that I got a brief one as I released the ignition switch - but as the engine hadn't started it did not continue.

I've found that if I leave the ignition switch in the on position (but do not move it to the start position) and then put a live jumper to the starter motor, the engine turns and fires instantly.

I'm thinking that when the ignition switch is in the start postion, it is turning the starter motor but is not supplying the coil... when the switch is in the "on" postion, the coil gets power.

Is there any reason other than a dickie ignition switch? No fuse has blown - but could this be a relay problem?

The car has been starting like a dream, right on the button, for years. No signs of a problem, it just stopped. To me this seems strange for a switch... normally they show some signs of fault before they go....

Any ideas?

HoG

Yes these ignition switches are prone to this problem, only fit a genuine VW dealer supplied switch as I find pattern replacements are rubbish.

Thanks Crasher - there as ever!

Can you get key matched switches (to your original) or do you have to go with what you're supplied?

The switch comes as the insert in the base of the barrel and does not affect the key. It is VAG part number 6N0 905 865 and this fits Passat type 35 and 3A from 88 to 97.

Thanks Crasher

Hi,i think i`ve got problems with the switch on my passat,sometimes nothing happens when i turn the key and also at times when starting the car the clock and the trip reset with a buzzing noise,i removed the cowls and steering wheel but cant for the life of me see how to get the switch out...any help would be appreciated

You have to remove the splined adapter on the shaft with a hydraulic puller and then take off the housing and then you can change the switch. Only use a genuine VW switch or SWF if you can get one.

I was afraid you`d say it needed a puller,i did give it a gentle couple of taps with a hammer and and punch but when it didnt move i put it all back together,job for another day i think....thanks very much for your help though

Guys, I have a B4 '96 A useful get around, dis battery, remove the multi way cable from below the ign switch, and smash the old switch out gently out of its housing, not as bad as it sounds, make sure every fragment is out. Break off the lug off the New switch, and you will be able to push it into the aluminium tumbler housing, (ign key out) from below. Push the connector back, the loom should hold it in place or put some blue-tac on the wall of the switch before inserting it,to stop it sliding out. Saves lots of hassle. Alternatively, remove steering wheel and switch gear and drill alloy tumber to remove the key tumbler, see paynes manual. you can then break the switch out from top.

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Originally Posted by monzo24

Guys, I have a B4 '96 A useful get around, dis battery, remove the multi way cable from below the ign switch, and smash the old switch out gently out of its housing, not as bad as it sounds, make sure every fragment is out. Break off the lug off the New switch, and you will be able to push it into the aluminium tumbler housing, (ign key out) from below. Push the connector back, the loom should hold it in place or put some blue-tac on the wall of the switch before inserting it,to stop it sliding out. Saves lots of hassle. Alternatively, remove steering wheel and switch gear and drill alloy tumber to remove the key tumbler, see paynes manual. you can then break the switch out from top.

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I CANNOT recommend you follow this path! Drilling is only required when removing the lock barrel, we are only talking about replacing the switch, one part of a three main component assembly.