1.8t problems

[goodi]

Hi, new here, just hoping that someone might point me in the right direction. I have an 1.8t, its on a 2001 y reg. When I got it it was pinking really badly, I put a 4 new coil packs in and cleaned the throttle valve. That stopped the pinking and it ran much better, the engine management light was on but went off. After I done this, it ran fine except when it was started from cold in the morning, it would lose power almost like it had stalled then catch revs again, this would happen for about 30 seconds or so then it would run fine (even thoughthe choke was still running)

I then put a second hand throttle valve in it, it has stopped the frog hopping, but now sometimes (not all the time) it feels like its just being held back a bit when I really floor it or try and accelerate, its intermittent and sometimes its fine all day, other days its on and off. Its not really that bad, but it is there. The engine management light persists in coming back on, and when its plugged in when its idling it shows no fault, as soon as you rev it, it shows a fault in fuel bank 1. Its been serviced, new filters oil etc, its only done 84k and its immaculate other than that but this fault is annoying.

Can anyone shed any light on it please? If it was the mass air flow meter it would surely show on the diagnostic wouldnt it? I had a word with the mechanic in the VW place by me and he said its one of 3 things, coil packs (replaced) Mass air flow (not showing as a fault) or throttle valve (replaced albeit a second hand one) he told me that the pipes leak behind the manifold and all of those need replacing once the throttle valve goes, and to be fair its a bit damp behind the manifold.

Sorry for such a long first post, but I really really love this car and want to keep it, but VW quoted over a grand to replace the pipes etc (if its even that) and its not worth spending that on.

Incidentally, I found this place googling fuel bank 1 fault and found a similar thread posted on here by someone also from Liverpool. I havent bought your car have I mate :biglaugh:

Thank you in advance for any suggestions/help

[savs]

Have you got the actual diag codes from the fault log? Using these might be able to narrow it down a bit.

Also might be worth checking the vac hose's. There's quite a few. Any hose with a braided cover is definatly worth checking. Also there is a big L shaped hose, this is probably to the left of the coolant tank on yours. Give that a really good check. That hose and the vac line are prone to leaking. I know that from mine!

[goodi]

Have you got the actual diag codes from the fault log? Using these might be able to narrow it down a bit.

Also might be worth checking the vac hose's. There's quite a few. Any hose with a braided cover is definatly worth checking. Also there is a big L shaped hose, this is probably to the left of the coolant tank on yours. Give that a really good check. That hose and the vac line are prone to leaking. I know that from mine!

Ok, it says fuel bank 1, long term fuel trim system to lean.

The code its showing is...

p1128

17536

When I drive it and if I floor it there is just no power there at all, it jerks like it wants to give power then drops then jerks like its about to go then drops again, but if I just drive it normally it it drives fine.?!?!?!

[kite]

taken from the ross tech wiki


17536/P1128/004392 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active
Possible Causes
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor faulty
Oxygen Sensor Control faulty
Oxygen Sensor(s) faulty
Fuel Injector(s) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Check Oxygen Sensor Control
Check Oxygen Sensor(s)
Check Fuel Injector(s)

[goodi]

Ok, I already replaced the throttle valve and put 4 new coil packs on it so I am gonna go for a new mass air flow meter this time.

Srange thing is it runs alright then the engine management light comes on, and as soon as I get it plugged back in and the light blinked off it runs absolutely awful for about twenty miles then seems to settle down but still has that power problem.

[martin1810]

I would check crankcase ventilation pipes and valve. Well known cause for this on this engine.

[goodi]

I would check crankcase ventilation pipes and valve. Well known cause for this on this engine.

To be honest mate, I am starting to lose heart in it. If this doesnt fix it after all the other stuff I have done I think I may sell it cheap.

anyone here wanna make me an offer? :biglaugh:

[goodi]

Right, I put the new mass air flow sensor on today, and the power is back, its driving totally different, there is no spluttering, its accelerating smoothly and fast, but it keeps cutting out???:aargh4: It will start and idle, it drives great, but if you put your foot on the clutch and brake the revs just drop and it cuts out. Strangest thing of all is it doesnt do it everytime, it will do it 5 times on the run then it wont stall and drive fine for another 5 or 6 sets of lights or junctions then it'll do it again and stall all the time? Its not showing any faults.

HELP!!!!!!!! :zx11:

[savs]

That is a strange one. Are you still getting a fault code? Have you checked your vacum lines? If you've still got the braided hose for vac lines, it would be a good idea to swap them out for silicon. Less than a tenner of ebay. You'll need 4mm internal diameter.

Dont lose heart in the car yet!! I got a 1.8t. The small but annoying problems were really p!££!^g me of at one stage, but they are solvable.

Have you tried looking on another forum? I dont think i can mention the name but passat world is quite good. Most people based in the US. Most of them have 1.8t, and most have found a solution to the common problems. :D

I found most of my answers there, and quite a lot of good info for fitting boost controller. Now boosting 13psi! Happy days.

[goodi]

That is a strange one. Are you still getting a fault code? Have you checked your vacum lines? If you've still got the braided hose for vac lines, it would be a good idea to swap them out for silicon. Less than a tenner of ebay. You'll need 4mm internal diameter.

Dont lose heart in the car yet!! I got a 1.8t. The small but annoying problems were really p!££!^g me of at one stage, but they are solvable.

Have you tried looking on another forum? I dont think i can mention the name but passat world is quite good. Most people based in the US. Most of them have 1.8t, and most have found a solution to the common problems. :D

I found most of my answers there, and quite a lot of good info for fitting boost controller. Now boosting 13psi! Happy days.

Thank you very much for the advice, I will check it out. It was showing no faults when we plugged it in after the MAF was fitted, it started a bit ropey but then kicked in fine. I am gonna go and reset the throttle valve tomorrow and see if that will do any good although I already know it probably wont.

The lad who fitted it with me and ran the diagnostics on it reckons that it might just need time to settle doen and a few days of driving it will sort it out? I personally cant see it although I know that sometimes things do seem to settle down when you fit something that you're guessing at is broken. It doesnt seem to work then seems to stabilise itself.

One thing for sure is that I cant get enough of it now it actually has the power its supposed to have, its absolutely fantastic to drive and the acceleration is brilliant for a car of its type.

[wid77]

That is a strange one. Are you still getting a fault code? Have you checked your vacum lines? If you've still got the braided hose for vac lines, it would be a good idea to swap them out for silicon. Less than a tenner of ebay. You'll need 4mm internal diameter.

Dont lose heart in the car yet!! I got a 1.8t. The small but annoying problems were really p!££!^g me of at one stage, but they are solvable.

Have you tried looking on another forum? I dont think i can mention the name but passat world is quite good. Most people based in the US. Most of them have 1.8t, and most have found a solution to the common problems. :D

I found most of my answers there, and quite a lot of good info for fitting boost controller. Now boosting 13psi! Happy days.

I know i'm going off topic a bit but just out of interest, do you know roughly how much power yours is producing at 13psi? Is it standard in other respects? Thanks.

[goodi]

Right, we narrowed it down to a faulty ne mass air flow meter. I have put the new one on, its stopped stalling but it is now running like a bag of ***** when it starts from cold on choke (it wasnt doing this before the air flow was on) and now the faut showing is exactly the same code but it now says its to rich rather than too lean ?

Any suggestions guys, I have replaced every braided hose

[savs]

Is the new MAF you've put on a genuine VW specifc to your car? Or is it from a auto factor? These cars only like genuine MAF's from the dealer/VW, at least that's what i've heard. Thats definatly a tricky one you got there.

wid77: I'm unsure of what power its making @ 13psi. Only other mods are forge divertor valve and boost/ vac gauge. If i get chipped, it should make more.

[savs]

Just been doing a bit more research. You definatly need a genuine VW MAF. I swapped mine out 2 years ago but got a new one from the dealer. Expensive, but needed.

Also, you could do a throttle body re-adjustment. Just open bonnet and drivers door. Turn ignition key on so dashboard lights are on but dont start engine. You should hear a high pitched whine. Thats the throttle adjusting. When whine stops, close bonnet, start car.

Also, if you have changed MAF, and have used a genuine VW one, make sure all hoses are on correctly.

There is a chance it could be an o2 sensor on its way out but i'm not 100% sure. Good luck, i'll see if i can find out more.

[gpaul]

i had a bad maf too bought a new though some say there are better mafs to try i got mine from gsf
cleared codes with vag gom though its a 2.0 20 v job 2002 plate

ran a lot better had 2 coils replaced so far beru ones but might ry others and keep them as spares