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kevin1823
12-04-2010, 07:27 PM
I really hope that one or two of you can please advise me:
Audi Cabriolet year 1994. engine type ABK 2.0E 8 valve. 56,000 miles.
Drove home, everything fine, engine stops unexpectedly, can't re-start or even get it to fire. 10 days later, a few things tried and here I am now. Have verified that there is a spark at No1 plug; have verified that cam-belt looks good and teeth appear to be there. Have disconnected fuel return pipe connection near HT coil/transformer and am satisfied that fuel is pumping to the rail (also get pump priming noise from rear when ign swithched). Decided to replace relay no. 30 for digifant control unit as I have heard they can be troublesome? No change.
Where, please, do I go from here? I don't posess, yet, any diagnostic equipment - this model/year does not have the 16-pin OBD connector but does have 4 wires going to the 2 x 2 sockets in the main fuse/relay box.
Is the Digifant ECU a likely culprit?
The keys are old style basic ones with no electronics, so, unlikely to be an immobiliser issue?
Also, can somebody please explain to me how to use the sight hole behind the distributor in which I can see the teeth of the starter ring, but how do I verify that it is at TDC?

Kevin

evokid
12-04-2010, 07:55 PM
1/ Have you checked all the breather hoses? Ensure all clear.
2/ Compression check?
3/ Is the spark good? Common probs on HT/Ignition module can fail and wont start car..
4/ Is the rotor arm and dizzy cap ok,
5/ Ignition leads ok? Mine had 2 broken leads causing rough running?
6/ Hall sender on Dizzy may be broken

Few more ideas for you to check

kevin1823
12-04-2010, 08:27 PM
1/ Have you checked all the breather hoses? Ensure all clear.
2/ Compression check?
3/ Is the spark good? Common probs on HT/Ignition module can fail and wont start car..
4/ Is the rotor arm and dizzy cap ok,
5/ Ignition leads ok? Mine had 2 broken leads causing rough running?
6/ Hall sender on Dizzy may be broken

Few more ideas for you to check
Thanks for the pointers.
I have found the breather pipe virtually blocked but I don't think that this would have rendered a "going OK" engine into a totally dead one in a finger-snap.
Similarly the Distributor Cap and Rotor might be due for a change but don't think that they are causing it not to fire at all.
Not sure how I verify that the spark that I have got is a good one?
Hall sender??? Last car I had starting issues with had ignition points and a carburettor - can a defective Hall sender allow a spark but render the engine into a non-starter?
Kevin

evokid
13-04-2010, 07:20 AM
The hall sender failure, will if failed still run while car on, but as soon as switched off it will not start again..... A common failure on these i believe?

Are all the pulley alignment marks/ Timing marks in alignment? Have heard of another member whose woodruff key broke allowing Crankshaft pulley to move causing non starting...?

I too had this on a golf 2E engine, very similar to our ABK engines?

Just some ideas really, as difficult without being there to look?

Where bouts are you located?

If yours has the 2 x 2 connectors with 4 wires going to them and not 3, you can buy adapter 2 x 2 and cheap fault code reader on Fleabay for 20 pounds plus delivery :approve:

kevin1823
13-04-2010, 09:32 AM
The hall sender failure, will if failed still run while car on, but as soon as switched off it will not start again..... A common failure on these i believe?

Are all the pulley alignment marks/ Timing marks in alignment? Have heard of another member whose woodruff key broke allowing Crankshaft pulley to move causing non starting...?

I too had this on a golf 2E engine, very similar to our ABK engines?

Just some ideas really, as difficult without being there to look?

Where bouts are you located?

If yours has the 2 x 2 connectors with 4 wires going to them and not 3, you can buy adapter 2 x 2 and cheap fault code reader on Fleabay for 20 pounds plus delivery :approve:
Thanks evokid for sticking with this. I am in East Sussex (coastal town of Seaford). I am looking for help to understand what I can do with the sight hole behind the distributor in which I can see starter ring teeth? Not clear as to what should be visible at TDC. I also think that I should verify that fuel is coming out of the 4 injectors - best way to do this?
Kevin

evokid
13-04-2010, 10:52 AM
At tdc you should see a distinct mark/ larger tooth on flywheel teeth. Ice not checked on my abk coupe but very similar to my 2e engine golf 8v which I rebuilt.
Not sure about checking injectors? You may be able to crack union on fuel manifold, but be VERY careful with possibility of fuel igniting!!!
Injectors would have to be flow checked proffessionly I would guess?
If you remove plugs should be able to smell unburnt petrol on them?

Have you checked compression? I would set it to tdc also and check crankshaft/camshaft pulleys align and check tdc notch on gearbox teeth.
I assume it's turning over, but not firing?
Leads and dizzy good bet. Mine failed instantly like this in the golf!

Sorry can't help more but just give some ideas really.

scotty33
13-04-2010, 07:27 PM
Re. the tdc, there is usually a small 'v' notch on the edge of the crank pulley, which should line up with an arrow/index mark on the timing belt cover. However this should only be used as a guide, the pulleys usually have a rubber insert which can slip and cause a 'false' tdc indication.
Best to get it near using the front pulley, then check the window on the bellhousing. There should be a 'flat' on one edge of the window, this is the side that the flywheel marker needs to line up with. The tdc mark on 5 cyl (20v) cars is ' -0'. I'm no sure if it's the same on the 4 pots?

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg104/scotty33_bucket/SSM10228.jpg

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg104/scotty33_bucket/SSM10220.jpg

The info on hall sender failure/ engine still running scenario, applies to 20v and v6 cars (which use 3 timing sensors). I think the 8v only has the one timing sensor (i.e. the hall sender), if this fails they stop, but you would not get a spark!
I guess if you can remove the fuel rail complete with injectors, you could point the injectors into some jam jars to see fuel spraying? Though I guess if the plugs are wet with fuel it is getting through?