Remote Central Locking Addition to an 02 Polo

[sdraper90]

Has anyone fitted any aftermarket remote locking kits? If so which one and how did it go?

I want to fit it to my 2002 1.4 16v polo

Thanks

[towcestervag]

several kits about but either toad or laserline are the most reliable in my opinion

[sdraper90]

Thanks ill look into them

[vc-10]

I fitted a system from a company called Right Click. The keys it comes with are very similar to the 'proper' VW flip keys. My car had no remote locking, but I think they do a kit for fitting in a car with locking already fitted.

[sdraper90]

Got a Right Click system now to install. Has anyone done it and got any tips? Thanks

[vc-10]

Have you got 'regular' central locking already fitted to your car?

[sdraper90]

Yep, key in either front door unlocks whole car, boot just un locks the boot. Thanks

[vc-10]

OK, I'm not sure about the connections then, sorry. I put the box in the driver's footwell, under another equipment box. I wired it into the cigarette lighter power supply, in under the centre console.

[Flash2]

I could probably tell you how to wire it. Is your car a 9N polo (chassis no wvwzzz9nz.....)?
If so, things are a little more complicated because the locking on the car is controlled by a single wire. Normally there is one wire for lock and another for unlock.
Does it give you any specific instructions with the locking interface on how to wire it up for a Polo? It should be wired up to output negative pulses but you fit a resistor between the lock and unlock wires.
I don't remember the details off the top of my head, but I made a note of how I got it to work when I done one a while back. It had me scratching my head for a while but I got there in the end. I'll have a look through my notes at work tomorrow.

Regards - Jim.

[sdraper90]

Hi Jim

Yep its a 9N polo, ive not yet go to the workings of the locking, i want to try and dedicate a day to it.

Theres no specific instructions, im emailing them to see of they have any more detailed ones i have some wiring diagrams as a PDF not sure how to show them on here though, theres no mention of a resistor :S

Thanks for the help

[sdraper90]

If you dont mind you could have a little look at this, this is all the information i have

https://www.rclick.co.uk/information.php?info_id=13

you may need to register, only needs an email, sorry

Thanks again

[Flash2]

I've checked and the resistor that you need is 180 Ohm, 0.25 Watt.

You wire your interface box to output negative pulses.
The central locking control wire on the Polo is on the white 6 pole connector on the drivers A pillar, where the door wiring connects.
The wire your looking for is blue/white and is on pin 5 of the connector. I've made a note that the wire may be coloured white on some cars.
Connect the LOCK wire of your interface directly to the blue/white wire on the vehicle loom.
Connect the UNLOCK wire to the 180 Ohm resistor.
Now connect the other end of the resistor to the Lock wire of the interface box.

If you need to connect your unit to the indicators they can be found on the black 16 pole connector on the power supply ECU under the dash at the pedals. I think that is the connector to the rear right of the ECU. When I say rear, I mean towards the dash, not the bulkhead. The wires are black/green (pin 14) and black/white (pin 16).

I take the positive supply from the light switch. It's a heavy red wire. To remove the switch, push the knob in and turn it to the side light position. Now pull it towards you. The earth wire just screws on to the body. I usually use one of the dash fusebox securing screws.

I hope that helps.

Jim

[Flash2]

I've checked and the resistor that you need is 180 Ohm, 0.25 Watt.

Should have said, you should be able to get the resistor from your local Maplin store. Costs about 3p. (http://www.maplin.co.uk/)

Jim.

[sdraper90]

Thanks, so did you mount the unit in the drivers door? sounds like more of a job than i thought bit lets give it a go hey

[Flash2]

No, you mount the contol unit under the dash. It depends on the size and shape of the box. I cable tied mine onto the relay plate, behind the little trim that pulls off to the right of the steering cowling.

It's not really that big a job. When you think about it, you are only connecting 6 wires to the vehicle and I've told you where you've to connect them. The job is half done already.

B+, IGN+, EARTH, 2X INDICATORS, and a wire to the central locking. 6 wires, that's all you need to make it work.

Good luck!

Jim.

[vc-10]

No, you mount the contol unit under the dash. It depends on the size and shape of the box. I cable tied mine onto the relay plate, behind the little trim that pulls off to the right of the steering cowling.

It's not really that big a job. When you think about it, you are only connecting 6 wires to the vehicle and I've told you where you've to connect them. The job is half done already.

B+, IGN+, EARTH, 2X INDICATORS, and a wire to the central locking. 6 wires, that's all you need to make it work.

Good luck!

Jim.

Where are the indicator connections Jim? I've nit managed to get them connected yet.

[Flash2]

Where are the indicator connections Jim? I've nit managed to get them connected yet.

Hi Vickers. (VC-10?)

See the attached photo.

Jim.

[vc-10]

Fantastic! So I just connect the indicator outputs on the central locking box to these?

[Flash2]

Yes.

[vc-10]

Great! Thank you very much for your help.

[Flash2]

Your welcome.

[freakyshadows]

Hi,
I want to to carry out the same work but just wondered, does this method use the switch that is already in the drivers side door and therefore not activate the blinking door LED and immobiliser or does it directly connect to the cental locking system and activate immobiliser and LED etc?

Thanks!

[vc-10]

Well, the immobiliser is a separate system (it's 'activated' every time you pull the key out of the ignition!) so that's not a problem. I'm not sure about the existing flashing LED- I think the system is spliced into the wires coming from the door lock (so basically the car thinks that you've turned the key in the door) rather than the buttons on the door.

[hedgehogville]

Hi Guys
HELP
Sorry to open this old thread wanting to install right click KE669HC remote kit
Just purchased a POLO 9n 2004 with no remote locking but central locking from each of the front doors.
I have just spent more of the afternoon trying to work out whats what with the switch in the door (three wires - brown Ground; brown/ thin green strip and grey...) one of these is +12v think its the brown / thin green
I have located the comfort control box ecu under the dash
I can access the constant +12v on the light switch.
Ground is no issue!
The indicators are typically black/ white & black/ green.
I am not sure regarding how to work out the type of the door lock.

Can anyone please give me some advice to progress this one on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Flash2]

Hi, welcome to the forum.

If you read the my posts in this thread, I've already explained pretty much all you need to know to wire up a remote locking unit.
I've never done a polo as old as yours, but I'm guessing it'll be the same as the later 9N ones I've done.

You wire your c/locking box up to output negative pulses.
The wire that controls the c/locking can be found in the loom between the driver's door and body, a blue with white tracer.
You will need a 180 Ohm resistor to make it work, available at your local Maplin store. 180 Ohm 0.6W will be fine.
You connect the locking wire of your c/locking box directly to the blue/white wire.
You connect the unlock wire to one end of the 180 resistor.
You connect the other end of the resistor to the locking wire.
See attached diagram.
There is a photo a few posts back showing where to connect the indicator wires.

Good luck.

22265

[hedgehogville]

Hi Flash2

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly I really appreciate that.
Yes I had seen you posts detailing the config to piggy backing the remote unit in.
But...there is always a but
When I tried to understand the problem myself I came up with the door lock/ unlock switch has three wires going to it!
None of which are blue with white tracer
What I found was brown with thin green tracer (constant +12v) , grey and solid brown (earth) - which left me confused as your per your previous posts
From the Haynes that I have the brown / thing green tracer goes to the convenience
control pins 23/16 & the gray goes to the on-board supply control unit pin 6c/2

Hence my confusion
Am I missing something obvious? what does the blue with white tracer wire supply?
Thanks in anticipation we can get this on cracked.
Kindest Regards

[Flash2]

I've never checked the wiring at the lock/unlock switch, so can't help much.
My guess would be that the wires are 1. Earth (Brown), 2. Locking control wire (Brwn/Grn), 3. Side light supply (Grey).

The blue/white wire I was talking about goes to the c/locking actuator in the door lock, not the c/locking button.
Both wires probably perform the same function but the value of the resistor needed to unlock the doors may be different,
so I'd advise using the blue/white because I know it works with the 180 Ohm resistor.
In either caes, you shouldn't even need to remove the door trim because both wires will route via the "A" post connector.

Jim.

[hedgehogville]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the update.

All the wiring done and checked.

Black, yellow & yellow/black all connected to Grd - checked that all these are definitely connected.
Constant Red found on the back of the light switch - definitely constant +12v
Blue/ white found in loom after they come through the A frame pillar connector (not sure if I can test this)

Powering up the unit and using the remote to lock gives five clear clicks from the relay.....whereas unlock gives 3 clear clicks!

But that's it - No activation of the central locking!

Do you have any further pointers.

Thanks again

[hedgehogville]

Hi Jim

Okay final revision for tonight - just changed the top jumper to short pins 1&2 - and success - it locks

Its late cold and now not getting any further....

So now just to work out why its failing to unlock...

Regards

[Flash2]

Hi Hedgehogville (strange name?)

First thing to confirm is that you are getting a negative pulse out of the box on the unlock wire.
Check it with a test light (or a voltmeter) between the positive supply wire and the unlock wire (on the box side of the resistor).
Press the remote to unlock and make sure you get a good light (or voltage. The volage may not go to 12V because the puse is short).
If that is OK, then confirm you have the correct value of resistor. Either measure it with a multimeter or google resistor colour codes.
If that's OK then check you have the resistor connected correctly. One end should connect to the unlock wire, the other end should
be spliced into the lock wire. If all that checks out, I think you'll need to get an auto electrician to take a look at it.
It'll be difficult to diagnose further without having the thing in front of me.

Good Luck!

Jim.

[hedgehogville]

Hi Jim

I had a further look at it tonight and have found the fault!
The squeeze together clips are rubbish and the clip where it was splicing onto the blue / white wire wasnt connected to both the lock and unlock wire
The blue/ white wire is so thin and not particularly substantial wasnt in good contact!
I have redo this joint twice and now have a fully functioning remote locking and unlocking central locking system
The only other config tweak was the jumpers were set so only one single pulse of 0.5 seconds was on set on J1 & J2
Thanks for your input and marks out of ten for helping me all the way along until success!
Many thanks again

[Flash2]

Great to hear you got it working. Well done.
Glad I could help.

Jim.

[hedgehogville]

Hi Jim

After all our successes of installing the Rclick remote in my Polo my sister wanted the same luxury!!

But as ever everything is not as straightforward!

They have a VW Polo 53 1.4 TDI

My POLO (Petrol) was a 04 9n Polo and I'm now having difficulty locating the correct lock / unlock wire in the driver to sill wiring loom - last Polo was thin innocent blue & white

In the 53 1.4 Tdi I have joined the lock and unlock together with the 1k Ohm resistor in place, the yellow , yellow and black are attached to earth as guide suggests.

The wiring loom in the drivers door to sill appears completely different....?23472



Your is Help appreciated again sorry


Thanks

[Flash2]

Hello again.

Sorry, but I'm having a bit of trouble identifying the wiring in your photo. Is that the loom in the driver's kickwell?
As far as I can see on the wiring schematics, all the 9N polos use the blue/white wire like your 04 plate.
And I don't see the speaker wiring in the photo. That should be a red/green and a brown/green for the driver's door. They're usually twisted together.

The only other thing I can suggest is to connect to the locking wire at the ECM under the dash, but I don't know where it is, off the top of my head.
Here is a link to a picture of the ECM : VW POLO 9N/9N2 SKODA FABIA 2002-2010 CONVENIENCE MODULE UNIT 6Q0959433E | eBay (http://tinyurl.com/nszvl9a)
If you manage to find it, the locking wire should be on the center connector, pin 6.

Regards.

Jim.

[hedgehogville]

Hi Jim,

Yes this is the wiring loom way down on on the far right of the drivers footwell with these cables are splitting off a larger loom and heading to the rear of the car along under the sill cover.
The Green / white and brown are twisted together...
But as you say no Red / Green or brown / twisted together.
I'll have another look for the ECM and try and locate locking wire on the centre pin 6

I'll let you know how things go.

Thanks again

[Flash2]

I'm thinking that the wires in your photo aren't the door loom wires.

What I'd suggest is you carefully remove the rubber concertina tubing at the 'A' post end. You can usually just lift it with your fingers at the top, and slip it off the plastic frame.
Don't try and pry the plastic part off, it'll almost certainly break. Just remove the rubber and pull it back towards the door to expose the wires. Check for the blue/white wire in there.

If you look on the 'A' post just forward of where the door loom connects, you'll will find a rubber grommet. You could route your c/locking wire through that grommet.
Now make a small slit in the concertina tubing near where it fits to the 'A' post and pass your wire through it and connect to the blue/white wire in the door loom. (I'm sure it'll be there)
Once your done, slip the rubber back over the plastic frame on the 'A' post. A little spray of silicone (or Mr Sheen) will help the rubber slip on easier.

I've done it that way a few times and never had any issues with water ingress into the connectors and if you do it right the c/locking wire wont be visible.

Jim.

[R-Siddons]

Hi,

I'm trying to fit a Rightclick kit to my 2002 VW Polo 9N 1.2 and so far I've managed to find all of the cables following Jim's guide apart from one.
I can't find the white 6 pin connector that has the blue/white cable in. I have found multiple blue/white cables and non of them seem to do anything when I press the remote. I have also tried connecting the kit to the blue/white wire inside the rubber hose from the drivers door to the body, and no luck. Can anybody tell me where I'm going wrong please?

Thanks,

Rhys

[R-Siddons]

Anybody have any idea where I will find the white 6 pin connector on the polo?
Could someone please tell me where I will find it or upload a picture of it please?

Thanks

[bin]

Hello Jim,
Can you explain B+, IGN+?

Thank you!

[Flash2]

B+ is a 12V supply that is live all the time.
IGN+ is a 12V supply that is live only when the ignition key is turned on.

Regards.

Jim.

[bin]

Hi Jim,
Thank you for fast reply!

Powering up the unit and using the remote to lock and unlock gives clicks but there is no activation of the central locking! Do you have further suggestions?

Is IGN+ necessary for the remote to work?
In your indicators picture B+ is connected to red/yellow pin 15. But i don't have a wire that goes to pin 15. Bzway i am using rightclick KE669HC remote in vw polo 2003. The only power supply wire i have is connected to cigarette lighter power supply.


Please look the picture where i took the blue/white wire.
28432
Thanks again

/Bin

[bin]

Forget to say!

Light indicators are working during lock and unlock with no central lock. I used 180 ohm, 0,6 watt resistor.....followed all your instructions except IGN+, B+ is connected to red/yellow pin 15.
can you tell me the location of IGN+ wires?

Thank you so much!

[Flash2]

The ignition supply (IGN+) is used to stop the remotes from working when the ignition is switched on. It's not really needed to make the system work.

I think it would be a good idea to make sure you've connected to the correct wire in the car's wiring loom so you know whether the problem is with your locking box or the car.
You will need a 12V test lamp, or at least a 12V bulb with a couple of wires attached. Connect one end of the bulb to the car body (earth) and touch the other end of the bulb to the blue/white wire in the car's loom that you've connected too. When you do that the doors should lock. If they don't (and assuming your bulb connections are OK) you must have connected to the wrong wire. If the doors do lock, you have the correct wire in the car's loom but you've made a mistake wiring up the locking box.

You can use the test lamp to test the box wiring too. For this test connect one end of the bulb to a 12V supply (the red wire on your locking box) and the other end to the output wire of the box (the one you connect to the blue/white). Pressing the remote lock button should make the bulb light up bright and the unlock button should make it light up dimmer (since the unlock signal goes through the resistor).

IGN+ wire is on connector XS4 (brown plug) terminal 12 - black wire.

Jim.

[bin]

THANK YOU JIM!
Have you looked this picture28433
I took the blue/white from here

/Binyam

[bin]

Since the blue/white wire was cut in to two, i tried to lock the car but it did not work, only the driver side is locked. So, the centeral lock worked when i joined the wires. Can't this be a proof that i have the right wire?

/Bin

[tmfin]

Hi Jim!

I have purchased Inca Pro ( http://www.inca-pro.de/lng/en/keyless-entry-system-ip60.html)keyless remote control system for Polo 2009 it is 6R1-model. Now I am still wondering how to connect the wires to Polo.
There is couple of wiring example but there is some conflict with directions. In the driver side there is a door wiring connector where the connection can be made easily. But the problem is how to connect this system. First I need to know Polos own system. Here is one link to German site:http://www.polo9n.info/Wissen/anleitungen/einbau-inca-pro-ffb-in-den-polo-9n
What is the meaning of this resistor 180 ohm? Do you have any connection scheme where whole wiring and connection are shown?

BR,

Tomi from Finland

[Flash2]

Welcome to the forum.

This thread is for the older model Polo (9N). There is another thread relating to the newer model (6R) here :
2010 Polo Remote Central Locking (Replacement/Installation) (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/157909-2010-Polo-Remote-Central-Locking-(Replacement-Installation))

[tmfin]

Hi Jim,

Than you very much!It went just like the conversation.I measured the resistant between lock switch pin 20 and 24. On the drivers side door wires the open and close wire is green/yellow pin 20. 12V is yellow/red and ground is brown(thicker wires). Could there be difference in Finnish and UK car?Resistor was 200 ohm.I didnt connected the trunk wire because i dont need the option.Also turn signals run automatically when you turn the key on the door (and now when you use remote)so it is not necessary to connect the wires.

If somebody is wondering same model car I can send wiring scheme here to be seen.Car was VW Polo 6R1 year 2009,1.2 ltr gasoline,trend.

Br,

Tomi




Welcome to the forum.

This thread is for the older model Polo (9N). There is another thread relating to the newer model (6R) here :
2010 Polo Remote Central Locking (Replacement/Installation) (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/157909-2010-Polo-Remote-Central-Locking-(Replacement-Installation))

[Leeren666]

I've checked and the resistor that you need is 180 Ohm, 0.25 Watt.

You wire your interface box to output negative pulses.
The central locking control wire on the Polo is on the white 6 pole connector on the drivers A pillar, where the door wiring connects.
The wire your looking for is blue/white and is on pin 5 of the connector. I've made a note that the wire may be coloured white on some cars.
Connect the LOCK wire of your interface directly to the blue/white wire on the vehicle loom.
Connect the UNLOCK wire to the 180 Ohm resistor.
Now connect the other end of the resistor to the Lock wire of the interface box.

If you need to connect your unit to the indicators they can be found on the black 16 pole connector on the power supply ECU under the dash at the pedals. I think that is the connector to the rear right of the ECU. When I say rear, I mean towards the dash, not the bulkhead. The wires are black/green (pin 14) and black/white (pin 16).

I take the positive supply from the light switch. It's a heavy red wire. To remove the switch, push the knob in and turn it to the side light position. Now pull it towards you. The earth wire just screws on to the body. I usually use one of the dash fusebox securing screws.

I hope that helps.

Jim
Just about to fit this kit to my 6r polo, is the wiring the same as this ? Haven't looked yet but been told it is by a friend, sounds pretty straightforward, main problem so far has been getting the HAA keys cut ! Local places won't touch them, found one bloke but I can't get to him till Saturday,

[Leeren666]

Got the keys cut, transponders swapped over, keys working nicely next step is I'm going to start the wiring tomoro, not looking forward to it but gotta jump in feet first, most complicated thing I ever wired in was a head unit about 10 yrs ago, wishing myself good luck !
just another question, as my indicators flash when I lock the door with the key now and I plan on connecting to the wires from the door lock I won't need to connect the indicator wires right ?

[Flash2]

No, you probably won't need to connect the indicator wires in that case. Don't cut the wires off until your sure it works like you expect though. Then you can always connect them if required.

[ctsmith94]

Hi there, just wanted to quickly ask (I know this is an old post) Planning on doing one of these installs on my 6R Polo and was wanting to do a quick guide, would you guys (Flash2 in particular) mind if I referenced you in the guide?

[Flash2]

Hi there, just wanted to quickly ask (I know this is an old post) Planning on doing one of these installs on my 6R Polo and was wanting to do a quick guide, would you guys (Flash2 in particular) mind if I referenced you in the guide?

No, I don't mind. As long as you don't make a pigs ear of the installation and then blame me;)

Jim.

[rumelk]

Exactly what I need, I'm doing the exact same installation; and cant even find where the cables are suppose to be connected too. Everybody says its under the drivers side footwell... but i cant seem to see anything... are my missing something...http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy342/rkcustomworks/Mobile%20Uploads/5DD5DFE3-7A59-49A5-9FE3-3953159DCE7B.jpg (http://s806.photobucket.com/user/rkcustomworks/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5DD5DFE3-7A59-49A5-9FE3-3953159DCE7B.jpg.html)

its not the Pic below isit?

http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy342/rkcustomworks/Mobile%20Uploads/B664B40E-D5E8-4716-AB41-98021B767711.png (http://s806.photobucket.com/user/rkcustomworks/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B664B40E-D5E8-4716-AB41-98021B767711.png.html)

also have video VW Polo 6R 2010 Central Locking Module? - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpn9PuXak78) showing above the pedals.

Thanks

[Flash2]

This thread is largely dealing with the earlier model Polo. There is another thread relating to the 6R Polo here -> 2010 Polo Remote Central Locking (Replacement/Installation) (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/157909-2010-Polo-Remote-Central-Locking-%28Replacement-Installation%29)

[rumelk]

moved over to the correct thread. Thanks

[Fusca]

hello I am Felipe and I am from Portugal, thank you all posted information
I have a vw polo 9n 2002 I bought for my wife and not had key-controlled, bought an alarm and after seeing this forum could connect almost all the wires and that the work, have however some doubts that I can not find nowhere...


the alarm that I bought is a spy and the wire diagram it´s the same to all others who saw the forum


I need your help, because I want to connect all the alarm features, I can not find any wire that detects when it opens all the doors, I could find a wire in the driver's door (brown with a yellow stripe) and already connected the negative trigger but the alarm turns on only when I open the driver's door, the other doors not. tried connect on light inside, and it works but when I open the door, alarm is making noises, turn signals will flash until the inner light goes out ...


I wonder where I can find the wire to turn the trunk release 12v +


now I have some problems that would like to solve and I ask understood to help me because I am giving in crazy with so many wires


first problem - when I open the car with the command he just opens the driver's door and when I click two times to open all doors makes noise but does not open, just open the other doors on the button that the door to unlock and lock the car or else opening twice with the key in the lock ... is there any way I can open all the doors with two command impulses?


second problem - today when I went to get gas I noticed that the petrol door is not opened, I tried to open the button all the doors and unlocked all the doors less gasoline, open all the doors with the key now opens the fuel door as well, pulled all the fuses for the alarm and the alarm off, already opens the fuel door on the door knob ...


third problem - I have connect the wire to up all windows on the wire to lock the doors when active alarm he locks the doors and the windows up, so far so good ... if I remove the fuse of 12V alarm and alarm only be connected is ground, it automatically lowers the windows alone .. so if one day the fuse blow he will open the windows alone ... someone already noticed it in your alarms?

Thank you all, I apologize for my bad english:aargh4:

[Fusca]

please tell me, on polo it´s 0.5 pulse or 3.5?

[Flee1979]

Old post, I know, but I just wanted to thank you so much for this. I bought a kit (not an rclick one), and the wiring diagram had all the colours of the wires mixed up. This helped massuvely

[Flee1979]

On a 9n, it's 0.5

[luzt]

Funny problem!

Car: VW Polo 1.2 9N -2003


I've installed a universal "remote key locking system". (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Car-2-Remote-Central-Kit-Door-Lock-Vehicle-Keyless-Entry-System-DT-UK-/331754059120?hash=item4d3e153570 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Car-2-Remote-Central-Kit-Door-Lock-Vehicle-Keyless-Entry-System-DT-UK-/331754059120?hash=item4d3e153570))
Found the blue/white wire and hooked it all up.

The funny thing is that I can only get it to UNLOCK the car.
If i place the resistor on the LOCK wire (from the new locking unit) and attach it to the blue/white wire the car unlocks.
If I do the same thing from the UNLOCK wire (from the new locking unit) it also unlocks the car.

But if i place the LOCK wire (from the new locking unit) to the blue/white wire, without a resistor, it does nothing! Same thing for the UNLOCK wire without the resistor.

So ther's a signal from the locking unit, but what's wrong?

It's set up to send a negative pulse for 0,5sec.

http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz334/johnnolan/diagramwithkeylessentrymodule.jpg
It's set up according to figure 3.

[arifmohammed]

Hi Jim,
I am new to vwaudi forum. I am also trying to fit one of these aftermarket remote locking kit to my vw polo. I am not able to locate this white connector that is6 pole and this blue/white wire in those connectors under the steering column. Having said that there are brownish connectors. Could u post a pic of this connector if u are able to.
Many Thanks
Arif

[Flash2]

Welcome aboard, Arif.

How old is your Polo? If it's a 2010 model or newer then your looking in the wrong place. You want to be reading this thread : http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/2010 Polo Remote Locking Installation (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/157909-2010-Polo-Remote-Central-Locking-(Replacement-Installation))

If you have an earlier 9N model then the connector your looking for is on the driver's side 'A' pillar inside the rubber tubing tubing between the 'A' pillar and the driver's door.

Good luck with the installation.

[mariusx3]

I've checked and the resistor that you need is 180 Ohm, 0.25 Watt.

You wire your interface box to output negative pulses.
The central locking control wire on the Polo is on the white 6 pole connector on the drivers A pillar, where the door wiring connects.
The wire your looking for is blue/white and is on pin 5 of the connector. I've made a note that the wire may be coloured white on some cars.
Connect the LOCK wire of your interface directly to the blue/white wire on the vehicle loom.
Connect the UNLOCK wire to the 180 Ohm resistor.
Now connect the other end of the resistor to the Lock wire of the interface box.

If you need to connect your unit to the indicators they can be found on the black 16 pole connector on the power supply ECU under the dash at the pedals. I think that is the connector to the rear right of the ECU. When I say rear, I mean towards the dash, not the bulkhead. The wires are black/green (pin 14) and black/white (pin 16).

I take the positive supply from the light switch. It's a heavy red wire. To remove the switch, push the knob in and turn it to the side light position. Now pull it towards you. The earth wire just screws on to the body. I usually use one of the dash fusebox securing screws.

I hope that helps.

Jim

I can find the "central locking control wire" please upload a photo of it's location. the other one i managed to find them very easy before i read this post. I spent a whole day searching for those wires lock and unlock wires. we are talking about 2008 polo. I didn't managed to dissasemble the tubbing between the Apillar and door- some info is greatly appreciated :p But if its in the tubbing it has to be under the steering wheel too right? what colour is the little devil ?? :zx11:

Thank you very much

[mariusx3]

Hi Vickers. (VC-10?)

See the attached photo. 32138

Jim.

My 2008 polo looks exactly the same. The lock wire is not present here? in this photo?

[Flash2]

I spent a whole day searching for those wires lock and unlock wires.
It's only a single wire that controls both lock & unlock functions. The info I've posted in this thread relates to UK right hand drive models. I've never worked on any left hand drive cars so I don't know if the wire is a different colour or if it's located on a different terminal on the door connector on your car.

[mariusx3]

yes i understand its only a wire , i have searched for the blue/white or white one there is a single one there under the wheel but its not the one. Tested and it doesnt do anything :( i dissasembled the door cover and still i coudnt find it :((( there are a buch of 20 wires i guess comming from the door lock/unlock mechanism and they change colour once entering the A-pillar :(

[Flash2]

Sorry I can't really help you locate the wire. Everyone else seems to have found it using the info posted earlier in the thread so I guess VW has wired your car differently for some reason.

Still, the wire must be there if your able to lock all the doors when turning the key in the driver's door lock. Perhaps it's a different colour on your car. Do you know how to test the wires to figure out which one controls the locks?

[mariusx3]

Sorry I can't really help you locate the wire. Everyone else seems to have found it using the info posted earlier in the thread so I guess VW has wired your car differently for some reason.

Still, the wire must be there if your able to lock all the doors when turning the key in the driver's door lock. Perhaps it's a different colour on your car. Do you know how to test the wires to figure out which one controls the locks?

i found 2 wires in the control unit from the door. i have connected one side of the 12v tester to one screw (ground) and the doors lock when i touch the wire. (blue yellow). and another one that locks the door and lift up windows too. I think i will give up trying to connect this. seems like i cant connect the windows closing too because it think its not possible. my keyless kit has a green wire that they say you need to connect instead of the white one and they say maximum 250 mAmps. how would i know if there are only 250 :)) also my keyless has the only one wire for locking and it seems it has around 160 kohms between the unlock that they say to leave it unconnected for the negative trigger.

today i noticed the module is acting strange. i tested it on an laboratory power supply and when i do unlock first push does lock again :)) and the second one unlocks.

anyway i was asking if you can explain me how can i acces the Apillar area because i wasnt able to look in there but i got no answer. I am an engineer in electronics.

[mariusx3]

another strange thing that those 2 wires from the door if you try to test them more than 2-3 times they stop working for an unknown reason to me
until now

[Flash2]

i have connected one side of the 12v tester to one screw (ground) and the doors lock when i touch the wire. (blue yellow).
Well, it sounds like the locking control wire is blue/yellow on your car so connect the output of your remote box to that wire.


i was asking if you can explain me how can i acces the Apillar area because i wasnt able to look in there but i got no answer.
Refer back to post #36 in this thread.


another strange thing that those 2 wires from the door if you try to test them more than 2-3 times they stop working for an unknown reason to me
until now
You have probably just activated the thermal cut out that protects the door actuators from over heating. It should start working again after a minute or so.

[mariusx3]

thank you for the info. But if i want to take the wire from where the signal ones are can i check all the wires there with the 12v testing pencil? connected at ground?

How can i activate the windows to close? any ideas? i dont want to use the wire that close them every time. Using this blue and yellow is there any way?

i didnt know it had this protection ty for the info ;)

[mariusx3]

thank you for the info. But if i want to take the wire from where the signal ones are can i check all the wires there with the 12v testing pencil? connected at ground?

How can i activate the windows to close? any ideas? i dont want to use the wire that close them every time. Using this blue and yellow is there any way?

i didnt know it had this protection ty for the info ;)


THIS IS HOW MY MODULE LOOKS LIKE
32147

is this schematic correct? for the negative trigger?
32148

this is how the cables are. i will measure again the resistance between the green (the one that is suposed to be for closing the windows and the opening wire that i am not sure if its correct in my schematic or not? the wire that is not suposed to close the windows is the white one but i want the windows to close too if i forget them opened. if i understand wright if i want the windows to close green wire will be used if not white wire is this correct?

what wire is for closing signal where i have to have 180 ohm in my schematic looks different from what i saw. any ideas?

32149

thank you for everything

[mariusx3]

since i can't manage to take the protection rubber off between the door and A pillar, i was thinking of measuring wires for continuity using my multimeter. I want to do this because the blue-yeallow wire from the door apparently comes in another colour when tha A pillar and hopefully the control unit under the steering wheel. measuring continuity- one side in the door connector where the blue-yellow is and the other side control unit under the steering wheel. But i have a problem here also.

I cant manage to take those connectors off from the control unit. i dont want to cause any shorts so its better to disconnect them from the unit. any advices? i tried with a screw driver in all direction to move that clip but they simply dont want to disconnect :zx11::aargh4::Blush2:

[Flash2]

Yes, the diagram is the correct one for negative pulses and the wire you've marked will be the unlock pulse. Obviously there is a misprint on the diagram.

When you hold the key in the lock position in the driver's door lock the windows automatically raise so extending the length of the lock pulse on the blue/yellow wire should cause the windows to raise too....I think.

The locking control wire should be blue/white between the 'A' pillar and the control unit. I've attached a photo below that should save you some messing about with your meter. I've marked the terminal on the control unit where the locking control wire connects. Notice the colour of the wire connected to that terminal in the second photo.

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32159&d=1481338076

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=32160&d=1481338079

[mariusx3]

thank you for your posts an support Flash. I am starting to loose my patience. I went yesterday and changed the keyless kit because apparently it had a problem or more. i buyed a more quality one. hope so. this one works as it should on my 12v power supply.

Now for the car. i managed to get that rubber off and heres how it looks like. Apparently there are 3-4 blue-white wires :)) one white and one blue yellow :1zhelp:
32161
if i stab the blue yellow wire from here how can i enter with it in the car? the connector has no space from what i saw. I remember you explained this in a post but i didnt understand it.

i also found where the CONVENIENCE CONTROL UNIT is. tought it is the one with the signal wires ( green black ) but it is not. (your photos helped me out) but maybe you can tell me how can i pull it out of there :(:1zhelp:

32162
32163

Now the most weirdest thing that could posibly be- i found the wires that come from the connector under the door ribbon (a pillar connection) but i cant find the blue yellow wire that i have testet when i had the door plastics dissasembled. there are only 4 blue white wires and a white one :aargh4::zx11:

32164
i stabbed one white blue whire and apparently nothing happens when i connect it to ground with the 12v tester.

Ans the last thing the new module that i bought has a jumper that says "+" and "-" and idea what that may be? its not the programming button because that is a button and is also another jumper for the electrical/pump.

Please help :beerchug: thank you

[mariusx3]

Unfortunately i have given up hope and wasted enough time with this. I think i give up. First thing ever that i havent managed to realize in electronics. This car is such shame in some parts of construction.

I will point out some things:

1- i read

Einbau einer Funkfernbedienung aus dem Zubehör - polo9N.info (http://www.polo9n.info/Wissen/anleitungen/einbau-inca-pro-ffb-in-den-polo-9n])

and tried to dissasemble the air plastic, the screw comes off very easy but the plastic tube seems to be holded by something else inside the dashboard, it doesnt come off or i dont know how to. (any advice is greatly appreciated)


2- i have looked carefully at your last photos Flash and you have the blue yellow too. Ok i get it maybe its the one you showed me in the image (blue-white) but i cant reach that connector. I barely can touch it with my hand and because the lack of space i cannot disconnect the conector from the unit neighter pull the whole unit out. i dont know how. i spent 2 hours looking in there).

3- at the a pillar wires i dont know what white blue is it because there are 3 in there. and that yellow blue that probably its not 100% the one i need even if it worked some times when testing with my 12v tester inside the door. But if you know which one is it please also let me know how to enter with the soldered wire in the car. The connector in there doesnt seem to have any space where a whire can pass through.

4- the only solution that i have in mind is to mount it in the door but without the signal lamps and i dont want that. its a lot of hard work in there too. btw if someone wants to dissasemble the door especially in cold times be aware that some of the door clips will surely break. There are 6 total. usually its not so big deal because the plastic is hold by screws too but if you want to install new clips like me the code is: 6Q0868243. they are very cheap

5- is the schematic correct from the link that i have posted? I am especially reffering at the green wire from schematic. it should be in there? (the green wire for power lifting the windows). The green wire is soldered to the white one? or to the white/black one (the one with the resistor on it)
i am reposting it here:
32167
32166
So until i get any solution i give up on installing this keyless. :'(

If anyone wants the help me more i am willing of paying for time and effort. thank you!

[mariusx3]

i have found out how the green wire works.

Well the green wire seems to be an constant output of 3,5 volts.

After you hit the lock button it generates 0.7 volts for 30 seconds after this comes back to 3,5 volts.

So you guys tell me if the connection scheme posted is correct because im in a total blur. Can a single wire input in the cars Convenience unit read ground impulses and voltage too ? :confused: because i doubt it.

[Flash2]

if i stab the blue yellow wire from here how can i enter with it in the car? the connector has no space from what i saw. I remember you explained this in a post but i didnt understand it.
Just forward of where the rubber fits onto the plastic frame there should be a rubber grommet. Route the wire from your locking box through that grommet, then make a small cut in the rubber tubing and pass the wire through the cut. Splice the wire onto the blue/yellow and refit the rubber onto the plastic frame.


maybe you can tell me how can i pull it out of there :(:1zhelp:
I have no idea how the convenience unit is removed off the top of my head. It looks like a real PITA to remove and that's why I don't connect to the locking wire there.


i stabbed one white blue whire and apparently nothing happens when i connect it to ground with the 12v tester.
If stabbing the blue/yellow wire on the door side of the 'A' pillar makes the doors lock, you are either not stabbing the blue/white wire hard enough to break the insulation or your stabbing the wrong wire. I can't think of any other explanation.


the new module that i bought has a jumper that says "+" and "-" and idea what that may be?
Sorry, I don't know what that might be.


3- at the a pillar wires i dont know what white blue is it because there are 3 in there.
The correct wire is the one that makes the doors lock when you ground it with your test light. Are you latching over the driver's door lock when your testing? Maybe try doing that so the door looks closed to the convenience unit.


5- is the schematic correct from the link that i have posted? I am especially reffering at the green wire from schematic. it should be in there?
Remember in my last post I said that extending the lock pulse might raise the windows? Well, my guess is that is what the green wire is being used for. It's pulling the lock wire low for 30 seconds which I'm guessing should cause the windows to close.

[mariusx3]

SOLVED! SOLVED! SOLVED! SOLVED! SOLVED! SOLVED! SOLVED! SOLVED! SOLVED! SOLVED! SOLVED! SOLVED!

I finally mnaged to install my keyless kit \(^_^)/ ;):D :beerchug:

I installed it in the door.

I have reopened the door by removing the plastic cover from the inside.

I used a blue-white wire that comes directly from the door locking sistem.

I have tested the wire with the 12v tester (by connecting one end of the tester at a screw -ground- and the pointer touching the wire it should lock the car) but before testing it push the locking mechanism in with your finger or gently with a screw driver so that the cars recognizez the door as closed.

The blue-white wire is easy to be traced as it enter the violet connector (at me) at the window up/down mechanism. Its the only blue-white wire from that connector and there is also a blue-yellow one that seems to work too but i have choosen the blue-white.

I haven't connected the windows up feature because i had some doubts with tha green wire from my keyless kit. As previously posted it generates 3.5 volts idle and after locking 30 sec generates 0.6 volts. The blue - white wire has 12v by default. Another thing that i didnt like about this universal keyless is that it doesnt has a separate button for closing windows so even if it did work every time you lock car it stresses the windows (not ok by me)- some have separate button.

Also i didn't connect the signal light because there are under the steering wheel and i really dont need them. My kit comes with a nice blue LED that i sticked near the window where the red factory LED is. Of course you can connect the signal lights if you mount the kit inside the car but for this is required to take the blue-white whire from the connection between the door and the car (a-pillar) its a rubber in there that need to be removed gently (as Flash explained).

I HAVE USED A 220 ohms resistor at 2w because this one i had. 180 probably should be ideally but 220 seems to work very good.

The resistor should be connected in series on the unclocking wire of the keyless kit and the locking wire should bond together with the unlocking one.

something like this:

keyless kit unit -> unlocking wire -> resistor -> unlocking wire \___ bowth wires soldered together ___cars blu-white wire
keyless kit unit -> .........................locking wire -> .................. /


The ground and the +12 volts i have taken from the wires that power the window mechanism. The brown one is the ground you can check it with a multimeter first to be sure. And the res with othe colour is the +12v. These 2 are the biggest wires from that connector.

The keyless unit i have installed under the door handle with the buttons from the windows so in case of something i just remove that handle with the buttons take the connector out from the keyless unit and remove the unit. Just simple as that so no need to remove the whole door plastic never again ;) i just used double duct tape but you can use glue gun too. I routed the wires on the door nicely first where the factory ones are. Then install the door plastic covers then put in the keyless unit glue it connect its connector and then install the door handle ;)

At the newer models of polo this doesnt work because the door handle is not orizontal like myne. its vertical so you need to find other spot to fix it. My polo is 2008

and this is it. :beerchug:

[mariusx3]

i also have a new question :))

There are two lets call them levers when opening the door plastics. One is going up and down when unlocking/locking car and one used for opening the door. You pull the opening handle and doors open. Its like a wire but very solid.

Ok this two levers have a rubber when entering the door. What are those rubbers for? THe up/down lever has that rubber broken at me. Should i change it? The locking mechanism is watter proof so my guess will be taht those are for a smooth positioning of the levers so no vibration sounds and stuf like this. But the up down lever is also held in position by the door plastic so my guess is that this rubber is not so important. am i right? thank you

[Flash2]

Glad you finally got your remote locking unit installed. WOW...that was hard work :)


Another thing that i didnt like about this universal keyless is that it doesnt has a separate button for closing windows so even if it did work every time you lock car it stresses the windows (not ok by me)- some have separate button.
I think your assuming the green wire will power the electric window motor for 30 seconds every time you lock the car. That's not the case. The electronic module that applies power to the motor has a load sensor that shuts the power off if the window glass is at the end of it's travel so power isn't supplied to the motor is the glass is already up.

The rubber around the rod/lever is a seal to prevent water leaking into the inside of the door. It's high up on the door so I don't think it's that important.

[Paul Keegan]

Hi everyone iv been following descriptions below iv found blue/white wire and door will lock im stuck with this 180 omh resident can someone plz help

[Flash2]

im stuck with this 180 omh resident can someone plz help
I can probably help.

What's the problem? Did you see the diagram I posted earlier in the thread? I've attached it below in case you missed it.

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22265&d=1378593155

[Paul Keegan]

Hi iv seen the pic I just wrapped the wire around the resisted on each side for test porpoise my car will lock only do I have to solder for testing ? Thanks for the reply it's wrecking my head cause the unlocked wire is the only 1 not working and it's the last thing to do everything else is done

[Flash2]

How old is your Polo?
Have you checked that your remote locking control box is sending out a negative pulse on the unlock wire?

Here are a couple of tests to try that might give us a clue:
Try locking the doors using the remote, then manually unlock them using the key. Now press the unlock button on the remote which should make the locking box output an unlock pulse. Do the doors lock? If the doors lock again that suggests the resistance of the resistor is too low...assuming you have the resistor connected correctly.

Take a length of wire and splice it onto the blue/white wire in the car's door loom. Touching the free end of the wire to the car body should make the doors lock.
Now connect one end of the resistor to the free end of the wire.
Next, touch the free end of the resistor to the car body. Do the doors unlock now?

If your testing the locking with the driver's door open remember to close the door latch so the body control module on the car things the door is closed. On some cars the locking won't work properly with a door ajar/open.

[Paul Keegan]

Polo is 2003 iv put A multimeter to + and - to my unlock wire and got 12v when pressing unlock button I did what u said spliced into blue/white with pice of wire when I touch - will lock and unlock without resistor get nothing with resistor will only lock and unlock when earthing wire if I connect unlock wire from the box the box jst clicks but no unlock with or without resistor

[Flash2]

I assume your doors lock & unlock OK using the key?


iv put A multimeter to + and - to my unlock wire and got 12v when pressing unlock button
So far so good.


I did what u said spliced into blue/white with pice of wire when I touch - will lock and unlock without resistor
That's not supposed to happen.


if I connect unlock wire from the box the box jst clicks but no unlock with or without resistor
I'm sorry but I have no idea what's going on with your car. I don't understand how the doors can lock/unlock when you directly ground the control wire but not when the locking box grounds it.

OK, here is another test to try. Set your meter to the Ohms scale (2000 or 2k Ohms if it's not auto ranging) and connect the black probe to a good earth. Connect the red probe to the blue/white wire. Now lock the doors using the key and check the reading on the meter. It should show approx 1 Ohm. Now unlock the doors with the key and take a note of the reading on the meter. It should show approx 180 Ohms when the key is turned to the unlock position. Do your meter reading match the expected resistance values?

[Paul Keegan]

Hi flash2 thanks a mill for all the help problem solved I had the wrong resistor put the right 1 in and working perfect very happy now 👍

[Flash2]

That still doesn't explain the results of some of the tests but at least it's working now. Happy to hear it was something simple to fix that was causing the problem.

[Billgayler]

I just fitted a Flexon Keyless Entry System bought off eBay to a 2004 VW Polo. See Remote Central Locking Kit VW GOLF mk2 mk3 POLO +HAA keys 2 fobs LED flash BOXED | eBay (http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-Central-Locking-Kit-VW-GOLF-mk2-mk3-POLO-HAA-keys-2-fobs-LED-flash-BOXED-/401173017969?hash=item5d67c67571%3Ag%3A3m0AAOSw9Nd Xta47&_trkparms=pageci%253A8719ac08-01e3-11e7-84ed-005056976e45%257Cparentrq%253Aa030d57e15a0a6062578 03f8ffe1d1af%257Ciid%253A17)

I found that everything set out in this thread was correct EXCEPT for the connection to the lock wire.

I hooked it up with a 180 Ohm resistor on the unlock side but I could not get it to lock. I wasted ages in the freezing cold trying to figure it out.

In the end I took off the door card and measured the resistance in the locking switch itself. I found UNLOCK resistance was zero and LOCK was 800 Ohms. Ie different resistance and different polarity.

Popped to Maplins, bought a 820 Ohm resistor and hooked it up the other way round to what it says in this thread and it all worked fine.

Just in case anyone is struggling it might be worth trying this.

Btw When I received the kit I realised I'd bought the wrong key type. It has the pointy-ended key rather than the square ended HU66 used on the 9n polo. Just double check before you buy one.

[Flash2]

I found that everything set out in this thread was correct EXCEPT for the connection to the lock wire.

I hooked it up with a 180 Ohm resistor on the unlock side but I could not get it to lock. I wasted ages in the freezing cold trying to figure it out.

In the end I took off the door card and measured the resistance in the locking switch itself. I found UNLOCK resistance was zero and LOCK was 800 Ohms. Ie different resistance and different polarity.
Sorry to hear you had to waste time out in the cold. I wonder why VW built your car differently from everyone elses.

Are you sure you've connected to the correct wire? The instructions given assume you are connecting to the locking control wire between the driver's door actuator and the convenience control unit (blue/white wire). 800 Ohms suggests you've connected to the locking control wire between the lock/unlock switch on the door card and the convenience control unit (brown/green wire). Connecting to either wire works but if the car has a factory alarm the alarm won't arm if you use the door card switch wire to lock the doors. You might notice that the red security LED doesn't flash, assuming you've connected to the door panel switch.

Anyway, glad you got it working in the end.

Jim.

[jaccuss]

does anyone have a photo of where the blue/white lock cable is

i have my boxed powered correctly and wired as shown but cannot get the car to lock or unlock remotely

[Paul Keegan]

I don't have a picture but if u open the car door and were the top hinge is there's a rubber boot were all the wires feed in from the door to the car if u pull back the boot u can trace the wire from here it's blue/white hope this helps

[jaccuss]

I don't have a picture but if u open the car door and were the top hinge is there's a rubber boot were all the wires feed in from the door to the car if u pull back the boot u can trace the wire from here it's blue/white hope this helps

thanks i found it , i was surprised to see blue/grey cable that i mistook as blue/ white

all working now

[kernowgaz]

I've checked and the resistor that you need is 180 Ohm, 0.25 Watt.

You wire your interface box to output negative pulses.
The central locking control wire on the Polo is on the white 6 pole connector on the drivers A pillar, where the door wiring connects.
The wire your looking for is blue/white and is on pin 5 of the connector. I've made a note that the wire may be coloured white on some cars.
Connect the LOCK wire of your interface directly to the blue/white wire on the vehicle loom.
Connect the UNLOCK wire to the 180 Ohm resistor.
Now connect the other end of the resistor to the Lock wire of the interface box.

If you need to connect your unit to the indicators they can be found on the black 16 pole connector on the power supply ECU under the dash at the pedals. I think that is the connector to the rear right of the ECU. When I say rear, I mean towards the dash, not the bulkhead. The wires are black/green (pin 14) and black/white (pin 16).

I take the positive supply from the light switch. It's a heavy red wire. To remove the switch, push the knob in and turn it to the side light position. Now pull it towards you. The earth wire just screws on to the body. I usually use one of the dash fusebox securing screws.

I hope that helps.

Jim

Sorry to revive an old thread. Thank you very much Jim for these instructions. Followed them to the letter and everything worked first time. Cheers mate :beerchug:

[leeoftroy]

Hi all, thanks so much for posting all this information here. I am hoping to fit a kit to my 2008 polo 1.4d but at first glance I can't find a blue/white wire under the footwell (there is a blue/grey which at first appeared to be blue/white). Is it blue/white in the door and then changes colour after the a frame connector? Anybody have any idea what colour I might need? I am hoping not to take the door apart unless absolutely necessary. Also is a 180w resistor also correct for this 2008 model?
Many thanks,
Lee

[cax1977]

Hi Tomi

I am trying to fit an Rclick remote CL kit to a Polo 6R. If you have the wiring diagram and instructions, please could you share? Especially about the resistor. Many thanks
Cax

[Janusz]

Hi, I need to put a remote central locking to polo 6r 2009 1.2 - would you send me a wiring scheme? mail: garbaty500@o2.pl
. Thanks. Janusz

[Ellisjayh]

I could probably tell you how to wire it. Is your car a 9N polo (chassis no wvwzzz9nz.....)?
If so, things are a little more complicated because the locking on the car is controlled by a single wire. Normally there is one wire for lock and another for unlock.
Does it give you any specific instructions with the locking interface on how to wire it up for a Polo? It should be wired up to output negative pulses but you fit a resistor between the lock and unlock wires.
I don't remember the details off the top of my head, but I made a note of how I got it to work when I done one a while back. It had me scratching my head for a while but I got there in the end. I'll have a look through my notes at work tomorrow.

Regards - Jim.

ive read through all the thread sorry it’s been so long but I really struggled trying to wire it up I spent 2 days trying and the only wires I managed were the earths 😂