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chrisvrscrx
18-05-2007, 05:34 PM
Right hello to everyone I am new and I've got a problem. I have a 2004 passat tdi 130 bhp highline with 86,000 miles, I was driving on the motorway at about 80 put my foot down to overtake and got very little power, I stopped tured the engine off and started again the car revved fine until about 3200 rpm then the power went again. the emisions light came on the dash and the display pannel said EMISIONS WORKSHOP! the power was fine until 3200 rpm then the power died i kept my foot on the gas as the power dropped off and loads of smoke came out the back. I took it to a vw garage straight away, the put it on the fault finding thing and told me the turbo needs replacing and the total cost including parts and labour is a reasonable £1500 (whatever!!).
Has anyone else had this problem and wat did you do, is the dealer havin me on?? i dont know
If i've left anythink out just let me know by the way i have only had the car two weeks!! Great
many thanks in advance,
Chris.:mad:
PS i'm not sure if its a B5 sorry

ini
18-05-2007, 05:56 PM
The ******* trying to sell you a new turbo when you dont need one is unfortunately a very common practice.

Although it is remotely possible that your turbo is damaged in some way, it probably just needs a MAF, or the VNT mechanism cleaning, or a new boost control valve.

Before now dealers have sold new turbo's to people when the problem could be solved with a 50 pence piece of boost control tubing, or simply re-attaching a hose.

Search for 'overboost' problems in the forum, there are only a few common things that cause your symptoms.

chrisvrscrx
19-05-2007, 12:53 AM
After driving it after getting it back, iwaited until it was warm (the warning light now removed at the dealers) I booted it it first and it reved up to the red line then in second it dropped off at 4,000 rpm then 3rd at 3,800 ish the turbo whistles i know this isnt norm as i had a fabia vrs i know it spins up when idleing but not the way this is i can hear it over the engine. I dont know why they said its ****** if it went all the way to the red line no problem, please help i just bought a house and cant afford it,
cheers Chris..

snapdragon
19-05-2007, 11:54 AM
It sounds like a pipe has popped off, and the pressure that the turbo is producing is leaking out as a big hiss instead of going into the intake manifold and making the car go faster. The black smoke with so symptoms, strongly suggests this. The air has already been measured by the MAF, but is not finding it's way into the combustion chamber. This means that the amount of fuel calculated is based on the air quantity which is hissing out, so lots of smoke.

You need to go to a better garage, or follow the pipes with a torch (the large 3" dia air pipes). You may have to remove the front bumper to get to them. :mad: but if you have a haynes manual this isn't too hard at all.

I suspect the dealer employee will put you a new turbo on, put the pipe back on, send you on your way happy and £1500 poorer and then sell your ok turbo on ebay for £200.

Dozz
19-05-2007, 11:48 PM
Little trick to try when looking for an air leak like yours is to spray some carb cleaner on all the joints on the inlet pipe if there is a leak it sucks the cleaner in and the revs will rise

mikespain
20-05-2007, 08:49 AM
I would not spray carb cleaner to check for leaks on a diesel there is a possibility of damaging it ,as with easy start the engine will knock. Is your engine check light on?If so do you know what codes were given when the garage scanned it?I'm pretty sure there is not a code that says-TURBO NAAFED.without the codes it is difficult to pinpoint the problem as the turbo is controled by various sensors

chrisvrscrx
20-05-2007, 01:07 PM
He never give me the code. ill phone up and ask in the mean time ill start lookin and taking all the covers off and let you know what i find oh yeah the light has been reset now and its not come back on

chrisvrscrx
20-05-2007, 05:57 PM
Ive had a look and can't find any leaks but i did find that the actuator was full of oil although it moved freely. i took sum pics of oil coming from a small hole the oil gets spat out when the engine is revved there is a hole on the other side where the oil is cummin out

Huweth
20-05-2007, 08:10 PM
I just went to check my car for comparison. I thought at first there was meant to be a pipe connected to that hole you talk of, the one you can see in the picture, but there is not.
I'd say the EGR is knackered.

chrisvrscrx
20-05-2007, 08:25 PM
what is an egr im not very good with abbreviations and do you think this is the reason for the turbo problem

Dozz
20-05-2007, 08:31 PM
exhaust gas recycling valve I would tell you to block it off to see if the problem goes away but I got hauled over for the carb cleaner comment:p I ran my 2.8 paj with it blocked off for about 40000 miles without an issue but I know nothing of vw set up but i'm sure if you just do it to test it it should be fine

chrisvrscrx
20-05-2007, 08:34 PM
how is it blocked off??

chrisvrscrx
20-05-2007, 09:35 PM
just found this

another reader explained why diesel turbochargers sometimes fail: "The Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve should open to allow carbon dioxide (which acts as a cooling gas) into the combustion chambers when the engine is under load (more than 30 per cent boost). This allows the combustion chamber temperature to drop and thus the temperature of the exhaust gases. If it sticks in the closed position the exhaust gas temperature will rise, causing the turbo bearings to fail and eventually allowing engine oil into the induction system. This can cause the engine to run on its crankcase oil until it is either stalled or goes bang. Problems with EGR valves are also often the cause of rough running when the valve is stuck in the open position as well. In several cases turbos have blown but the EGR valve has not been replaced. Inevitably the new turbo unit will not last long." The most common cause of the EGR valve sticking is dirty, sludged or otherwise contaminated engine oil.
this could explain the oil on the egr but why didnt the ******* pick it up

chrisvrscrx
20-05-2007, 09:42 PM
and this too

VW Passat lacking in power,plugged in & retrieved these codes,any ideas anybody please?

17964 charge pressure control (intermittent)

17564 intake manifold pressure sender (present)

17569 intake manifold temperature sender (present)

Thanks in advance.

Sorry forgot to mention it is a 52 plate 1.9 TDI (130bhp)
Hi,

Have you checked the turbo wastegate valve very common on VW & Audi`s causes lack of power when seized.

Phil
robski
Post subject: Posted: Aug 13, 2006 - 02:33 PM
Joined: Jul 03, 2005
Posts: 62

no mate i have not,all i have done is check for codes.It has been into a garage&had a boost pressure sensor fitted apparantly.
When the lad turns the engine off he reckons he hears an air leak from around his brake servo area?he also reckons when he pulls the pipe off from the waste gate there is no vaccum??

robski
Post subject: Posted: Aug 13, 2006 - 03:59 PM
Joined: Jul 03, 2005
Posts: 62
checked the waste gate and it appears to be free!lifted the rod upwards with a screw driver.


robski
Post subject: Posted: Sep 02, 2006 - 06:49 PM

Joined: Jul 03, 2005
Posts: 62
for those who are interested i finally got to look at it myself&sorted the problem today!

after checking everything on the boost side from wastegate actuating valve to the boost pressure control valve,by the way you can swop the EGR control valve for the boost control valve because they are the same to eliminate if its the boost control valve,to eventually finding a vacuum pipe disconnected along the bulkhead.

This was the hiss from around the servo area(intermittent),so the pipe must have only just in the plastic connector,connected back up&runs&pulls like a good un&no DTC's stored !

Huweth
20-05-2007, 09:52 PM
If you are thinking of changing the EGR, they are about £100. Check out GSF or ECP online.

chrisvrscrx
21-05-2007, 11:16 AM
does anyone know a good specialist in liverpool or lincoln area (i work away) to try and sort this problem out I got told today the oil that is coming out of the egr is because the turbo is knacked in the first place and thats why the oil is in the induction system. And is it safe to drive I have to drive 360 round trip and i dont know weather to take my other car. The fella i went to said some people are told there turbo's are gone and just keep on drivin it for years! I'm off work from wednesday so i'm gunna leave it with someone so they can figure it out but would appreciate some advice on where to take it. I'm handy when it comes to fixing cars just not very good finding the problem espeacially when its so complicated,
Thanks in advance,
Chris.

ini
21-05-2007, 05:20 PM
The oil that seeps through your turbo oil seals will eventually blow along the boost pipes, through the intercooler and along to the EGR.

This does not necessarily mean that anything is wrong with your turbo, all the higher bhp PD engines seem to do it.

It is a simple job to drain the lower boost pipe (maybe flush the intercooler on a PD130) and clean the EGR valve.

The best thing that you can do is change your oil on a regular basis, and make sure that you are using the correct oil, which is essential!

Personally, if you have no particulate filter, i would ditch the 'long life' oil type servicing if you use it, and change my oil every 4-6 months.

I would examine the very limited range of oils that you can use, and go for one that is a little more viscous (thicker) at operating temp's. This should help to reduce turbo seepage.

Huweth
21-05-2007, 05:27 PM
What ini said.
The mechanic who told you the turbo is shot could easily be lacking knowledge or trying to get money out of you.

chrisvrscrx
21-05-2007, 07:45 PM
thicker as in higher number say 4w40 instead of 0w30? i got some fuchs 0 w 40 the guy in GSF said it was what VW put in the engines in the factory dunno weather he was fibbin tho.

chrisvrscrx
21-05-2007, 07:46 PM
The thing is the turbo is still a bit funny not boosting properly I've got new oil and a filter and i'm gunna clean everything out and see what happens. oh and its still whistleing but im getting it on the ramp in work to do the oil so i'll have a good luck around.

Denny57
22-05-2007, 11:52 PM
Hi

Many years ago I had a 1988 Passat 1600 TD which developed a whistle I think the problem was a maifold gasket not the turbo !

Bringing this message up to date I have a a 2002 130 TDI Estate which has a jerky accelerstion up to 30mph but OK on tickover and above 30mph.

However when climbing a hill at low speed it loses power and puffs grey smoke I also notice a loud Hiss like an airline if I leave the window down.

I live on the Wirral and would be interested if you find a decent diesel specialist in the Merseyside area

Regards

Denny57

chrisvrscrx
23-05-2007, 01:14 PM
latest.... I changed the oil which took me hours as i couldn't get the filter cap off aarrgghh. anyway the oil that came out was really black and glupy. I took most of the pipes off around the intercooler and to be honest they weren't that bad a bit too oily but not as bad i a thought they were going to be. I'm not sure if the whistle is normal I heard an other passat yesterday that seemed to have a whistle. I do have a hiss tho when accelerating and i read a previous thread saying that i pipe had come lose by the bulk head i cant find it does anyone know exactly where it is??? There is also a hiss when the engine is tured off coming from the same place then it goes as if all the air has come out,
Cheers

Huweth
23-05-2007, 05:38 PM
The hiss could just be your aircon compressor, mine does it too, and a turbo whistle is normal (and very cool!). If the hiss is apparent when accelerating is still sounds like an air leak in the boost system. TDi oil is always very black but certainly shouldn't be gloopy. Sounds like it was past it's best.

Denny57
23-05-2007, 09:54 PM
CHeers

For the info

I have spoken to AW Diesels in Darwin today very nice helpful peole but they just build engines

They think my problem is a hose leak

Also spoke to another local mechanic whor works on modern diesels and he thinks it is a hose leak he is going to have a look tomorrow

Will report back if any success

Good luck with the Whistle !

Denny57

chrisvrscrx
27-05-2007, 04:12 PM
did you have any luck??

chrisvrscrx
29-05-2007, 09:44 PM
Still havent found the problem, I was messing about earlier on with the EGR valve taking the vacum pipe off and when the engine had just been revved the EGR valve made a 'tink' noise as if it were working but if the engine was left to idle for a while the vacum was lost in the pipe and it no-longer made a 'tink' sound when the pipe was pulled off.

Also i pulled the pipe off the round thing on top of the turbo (dunno what this is called) and the turbo whistle stopped!!! Is this strange??

When the vacum pipe was pulled off the EGR valve the turbo seemed to spin up, I've checked all the pipes and cannot find anythink wrong.

On the plus side my dad is an AA recovery man and he is on the a course where there is about 20 AA patrol men on it so i'm going to drive down to see them because one of them must have a clue whats wrong, I'll report back to whst they said but if anyone has any more thoughts on what I just said please let me know,

Thanks,
Chris.

rob_bot
31-05-2007, 11:15 PM
I have a 52 plate 130 TDI Sport Estate with 141,000 mile on it.

I have had it from new and only had one problem previously. All sorted lurking here :) (Wet rear foot well from crap by pollen filter)

Anyway, two days ago I had the whooshing of air that has been described here with the lack of power also. It happens about 1500-2000 RPM and has got louder and worse over the past few days (and 800 miles). It is constant when using the turbo not intermittent.

Now when I drive it (with the turbo in) I get the noise (very loud with the window open) and it hesitates to deliver the power - almost like it is cutting out for a brief moment. Then loads of grey/black smoke out of the back and then off. The smoke disappears then.

Anyway after reading this and a few other posts I tried to find the leak and the illusive L-pipe that always has the 4" split in it (where exactly is it!) as I am convinced it is an air leak.

I took off the inter cooler's 90 degree pipe (the small one at the top) to look at the pipes below and they all looked OK. However the inside of the pipe was pretty oily/sludgy and around the housing that it goes into (whatever that is but chrisvrscrx (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/member.php?u=11434) has some pictures of it in an earlier post), that was oily too. As too was the connection down at the front bottom.

As it is very loud I am assuming it is coming from a BIG pipe rather than the little vacuum hoses. Sound reasonable?

Anyone fixed theirs yet?

Maybe not related but when I start the car I get a lot of smoke out the back for about 20 seconds, then it is fine (well used to be before the whooshing/hiss). Sometimes it revs at about 1200 RPM when starting too before settling down and does it occasionally when idling (normal engine temp) too. Thought that might be the air flow meter.

I service every 10,000 rather than variable by the way. I will read out the codes later and post them if they are of use.

Thanks

chrisvrscrx
02-06-2007, 04:04 PM
I went to see my dad's AA friend, he was pretty useless to be honest, he did read the fault codes tho and came up with this one;


P0229 Turbo Underboost

Can anyone suggest anything???

Huweth
02-06-2007, 04:10 PM
P0229 Turbo Underboost


Makes me think about leaks in the boost pipes and vanes sitting too closed all the time.

chrisvrscrx
02-06-2007, 07:10 PM
Thats what i thought when i switch the engine off there is a hiss coming from the servo i have looked all around it and cannot find where its coming from has anyone ever had it before??

ini
03-06-2007, 12:05 AM
Check your MAP.

Also check the boost control valve and associated tubes for blockages/leaks.

chrisvrscrx
03-06-2007, 11:06 AM
just remind me what the map is there is that many abbreviations
thanks

ini
03-06-2007, 12:44 PM
Manifold Air Pressure/charge pressure sensor.

I think its located just after the intercooler on a PD130.

Denny57
03-06-2007, 07:19 PM
Hi Chrivrscrx and All

I've been away from my emails for a week but just before I went away I got a second opinion from another mechanic and loh and behold he found a botched up repair to the Intercooler hose which I had replaced a few weeks ago.

Instead of purchasing a 47p Hose Clip the connection between the hose and the Intercooler the two have been joined with a piece of what looks like rainwater pipe a tar like goo substance and several tie wraps !

I have since purchased the correct clip and the new mechanic will fit it tomorrow

Will let you know the results

My previous mechanic has some explaining to do

I also paid him to clean out the injector pump and injectors but apparently a person on another message board assures me there's no such machine in existance that will fit the VW PD injectors ??

Denny :confused:

chrisvrscrx
12-06-2007, 02:52 PM
Driving before i decided to give the car a thrash to see if the turbo problem had got any worse. I it was going better than before then i heard a plip then no power, I thought it hadf gone into limp mode so I turned the engine off waited a bit and turned it back on, it still had no power, then the engine started to run away with its self i turned it of but it kept running at high rev's with the engine sounding rough i Jumped out coz i thought the thing was going to blow up. There was thick white smoke coming from the exhuast, I ran back to the car and popped the bonnet could see much then to try and disconnect the battery but i couldnt, so I jumped in wacked it into gear and stalled it, dunno why i didn't do this before but i shat myself. Anyway the car wont start and I think some of the turbo might of went into the engine :zx11:
Any suggestions...... I really can't afford an expensive repair bill, I could probably strech to a new turbo at a push,
Please help,
Thanks in advance.

ini
12-06-2007, 04:07 PM
Could have been running on crank oil, if so your turbo seals are not good.

Have you been seeing a lot of smoke lately?

Did the turbo detonate?

There are plenty of VNT-17 'VA' turbo's on ebay, most for less than £200.

Huweth
12-06-2007, 05:21 PM
Oh dear, not good news.
The engine has almost grenaded itself!
You are very lucky to have stalled it and saved having to buy a new engine. Usually when this happens the engine runs away and destroys itself. If this happens on the motorway it could of course be fatal as you accelerate uncontrollably.

The engine sucked in engine oil and burnt it. It either came from the intercooler or the turbo seal. Either way the car is going to need to be towed to a garage and be stripped down to assess the damage. If the turbo didn't disintegrate you might only need a new turbo and to have the engine checked and cleaned internally. If it's worse you may need new conrods, pistons, crank, valves, valves stems etc.........

This is likely to cost at least a thousand to sort, and if the damage is extensive you'll need a whole new engine.

Don't try to start it.
Really sorry this has happened, but it will need to be towed and stripped.
Bummer.

chrisvrscrx
12-06-2007, 05:25 PM
not noticed any excess smoke other than the problems listed above but bad turbo seals would explain oil coming from the egr valve, i think it detonate but not sure, i dont know if any of the turbo went into the engine, and dont know why the engine would not switch off

chrisvrscrx
12-06-2007, 06:07 PM
I now know why the engine keptrunning, because it was buring oil from the turbo seals. Am I right in thinking that if the turbo is not damaged i.e the blades are ok the engine will be undamaged? I just spoke to a VW specialist who told me just to get a new turbo then try it, then I will find out if there is any engine damage rarther then stripping it all down and the engine could be fine.

Dozz
12-06-2007, 06:20 PM
The engine does run on the oil and it ignites it like a diesel via compression that's why it runs on after you turn the key off. If it was me I would remove the turbo and look for any missing blades etc if it's intact I'd would just fit another turbo. If parts are missing I would remove the inlet manifold,intercooler and pipes and see what's lurking inside and give it a good clean out your have to do this anyway it's going to be full of oil. After that I would start the car again with the turbo hose disconnected so it runs normaly aspirated see how it runs this will tell you if you have any internal damage.

chrisvrscrx
18-06-2007, 12:35 PM
I'm taking the turbo off today!! I will let you know how it looks..... Hopefully it will be ok and I can fit another. I think i'll buy a new one so I know its going to last.

chrisvrscrx
19-06-2007, 01:34 PM
Right, well were do I start?? I took it off yesterday and knew it weren't looking good when the turbo fell apart in the middle. There was virtuly no blades left from the induction side and it had all fell to bits. (I'll post sum pics) The pipe shown is the one directly from the turbo going to the turbo and as you can see it is damaged by metal that struck it. I have took the inlet manifold off and the exhaust manifold and all looks fine apart from the smell of burnt oil. As I took the hose off from the turbo to the metal tube going towards the intercooler about 2 litres of oil came pouring out and probably a further 1 as I took the one off from imediately before the intercooler. I aint found anymore metal and I think there may be some in the intercooler as everything looks normal everywhere else. In work we have a boroscope (not sure how to spell) Its a tiny camera with a monitor and I'm going to take out the glow plugs and have a look round the engine, I will also look in the intel and exhaust manifolds.

Does anyone know of any turbo suppliers??

If any of you have been having turbo problems I strongly suggest you get it checked out properly. My problem was i'm too tight to pay a garage, now look at me facing a massive bill for possible engine damage, plus not having any wheels to get about. Trust me its a nightmare.

Dozz
19-06-2007, 02:16 PM
that's one sick puppy. I think you are going to get charged a surcharge as most turbos are recons and that is well beyond saving

ini
19-06-2007, 05:01 PM
This turbo seller on ebay seems reliable.

Here is a used PD130 turbo suitable for your car:

ebay item: 190123265991

(You could also upgrade to a VNT-20 turbo for the same money)

Lord of the Pie
19-06-2007, 05:44 PM
Hi,
I,m new to this site, joined last night after reading various comments about Turbo problems. I drive a Y reg Skoda Octavia 1.9tdi Elegance estate and had noticed recently that I was struggling to mainitain speed when travelling up long inclines. I then realised that I had experienced a general power loss that must have been happening for some time. After googling away a couple of evenings I found this site and read about people experiencng similar problems, possibly linked to the air mass meter. I spoke to the parts guy at my local dealer, Westover Skoda in Corfe Mullen, Dorset who confirmed that it was a common problem, assured me that even I could replace it ! and floggd me one for £72.00. I fitted it in 5 minutes (about an hour ago) and took it for a spin..................I think all my birthdays came at once, what an amazing difference, like driving a new car. I am seriously chuffed so here's a big thankyou to all those who posted comments and suggestions about 'TURBO PROBLEMS'. CHEERS!

:beerchug:

chrisvrscrx
19-06-2007, 09:47 PM
This turbo seller on ebay seems reliable.

Here is a used PD130 turbo suitable for your car:

ebay item: 190123265991

(You could also upgrade to a VNT-20 turbo for the same money)

Thanks for the listing number.... What is the difference between the two and what advantages would I get?

Cheers :beerchug:

ini
19-06-2007, 11:06 PM
Because of the way the car controls the boost pressure you can bolt on a larger turbo and not see any real power difference.

However, if you then had your car remapped, a larger turbo will be capable of providing higher levels of boost pressure at a lower temperature than the standard turbo, allowing you to utilise increased fueling and generate much more power.

The VNT20 would need an adapter plate to mount it to the exhaust manifold.

chrisvrscrx
19-06-2007, 11:51 PM
Because of the way the car controls the boost pressure you can bolt on a larger turbo and not see any real power difference.

However, if you then had your car remapped, a larger turbo will be capable of providing higher levels of boost pressure at a lower temperature than the standard turbo, allowing you to utilise increased fueling and generate much more power.

The VNT20 would need an adapter plate to mount it to the exhaust manifold.


Were could I buy a adapter plate?? I was in an A6 Estate 1.9Tdi this weekend that had been re-mapped to 174BHP and It felt rapid I could not believe how quick it felt, mind you a working car would be good for now,
Thanks.

chrisvrscrx
20-06-2007, 02:08 AM
Just found another turbo place on ebay, he had a unit off a 2.0 tdi A4 with the same number as mine on it. Am I correct in asuming this will be ok for mine?? Also he includes the exhuast manifold with it, will it bolt straight on or will I have to attach it to my exhaust manifold?? Cheers

chrisvrscrx
20-06-2007, 02:11 AM
This is his ebay shop he only breaks Vag cars and porsche's

motorsinmotion 01909531537 (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/motorsinmotion-01909531537)

Just type this in on ebay or i suppose you could call him

chrisvrscrx
20-06-2007, 12:49 PM
that's one sick puppy. I think you are going to get charged a surcharge as most turbos are recons and that is well beyond saving

I rang a few some said it did not matter what the condition was like some said it does some did not ask they just said I have a week to return it, so I won't tell them.

If I want a new one it will be about £500 + VAT a recon unit will be roughly £400 + VAT there was one recon for £360 all in.

I still don't know weather to go to a breakers.

ini
20-06-2007, 01:18 PM
The German ebay site is also good for Audi turbo's.

I missed the auction 2 days ago for a VNT17 'VA' i was watching.

It sold for £17.

You can generally get a PD130 turbo for under £100 from a private seller.

A brand new turbo for your 'AWX' engine just sold for £92 on UK ebay a couple of days ago.

Then there is no need to exchange your old turbo.

chrisvrscrx
20-06-2007, 01:52 PM
that's one sick puppy. I think you are going to get charged a surcharge as most turbos are recons and that is well beyond saving


The German ebay site is also good for Audi turbo's.

I missed the auction 2 days ago for a VNT17 'VA' i was watching.

It sold for £17.

You can generally get a PD130 turbo for under £100 from a private seller.

A brand new turbo for your 'AWX' engine just sold for £92 on UK ebay a couple of days ago.

Then there is no need to exchange your old turbo.

Why can I never find these :zx11: thanks anyway I'm looking on the German ebay now, Thanks

chrisvrscrx
22-06-2007, 04:11 PM
Got a turbo £250 from a breakers, I got it VAT free because I paid cash. I know it seems expensive but I needed one and couldn't wait for ebay auctions to finish, It came from an 2.0 Tdi A4 with 30,000 miles, all the part numbers match up ok.

chrisvrscrx
25-06-2007, 01:07 AM
Going to start putting the new turbo on tomorrow, and i've been doing some thinking about possible engine damage.... Am I right in thinking that bits of metal from the turbo couldn't get past the intercooler because of the way its made? I've been trying to serch for intercooler cross sectional diagrams, and the ones i've seen seem to suggest the metal would get trapped. Does this make sense???

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

oaktreegarage
25-06-2007, 02:39 AM
Still havent found the problem, I was messing about earlier on with the EGR valve taking the vacum pipe off and when the engine had just been revved the EGR valve made a 'tink' noise as if it were working but if the engine was left to idle for a while the vacum was lost in the pipe and it no-longer made a 'tink' sound when the pipe was pulled off.
*Also i pulled the pipe off the round thing on top of the turbo (dunno what this is called) and the turbo whistle stopped!!! Is this strange??*




When the vacum pipe was pulled off the EGR valve the turbo seemed to spin up, I've checked all the pipes and cannot find anythink wrong.

On the plus side my dad is an AA recovery man and he is on the a course where there is about 20 AA patrol men on it so i'm going to drive down to see them because one of them must have a clue whats wrong, I'll report back to whst they said but if anyone has any more thoughts on what I just said please let me know,

Thanks,
Chris.


Hope you didn't do what i suspect you did i.e pull wastegate actuator vacuum pipe off and drove it?,this removes safe boost control and if limp mode doesn't engage soon enough it lets the turbo boost to destruction... please ensure its refitted before road testing with a replacement turbo as 2 failures in a row would be harsh! cheers simon

rob_bot
25-06-2007, 05:13 PM
After looking at all the pipes on the top of the engine and not finding any holes, I nipped to my local (non ***********) garage. He put it on the ramp and the leak was coming from the 'S' pipe from the turbo to the intercooler (front O/S). Cause - after years of running, the earth strap had worn away the pipe causing the leak.

Got a new on from VW at £72! and tied back the cable to prevent it happening again. Fitted in 20 minutes for £10.

Drives much better now.

Hope this helps you locate your leaks.

Huweth
25-06-2007, 08:45 PM
Am I right in thinking that bits of metal from the turbo couldn't get past the intercooler because of the way its made? I've been trying to serch for intercooler cross sectional diagrams, and the ones i've seen seem to suggest the metal would get trapped. Does this make sense???

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

No idea on the diagrams, but I have heard of catastrophic engine damage caused by shards of metal getting into the cylinders, so it can get past the intercooler. Those cases usually happen when the engine could not be stopped by stalling though.

chrisvrscrx
26-06-2007, 12:51 AM
What a job!! been on the car since 5pm its not 00:45 just come in. Well first thing I done was to jack one wheel up put the car in 5th and turned the engine manually..... The engine turned fine very smooth.

When I was asking about the intercooler I have heard of metal entering the engine and seriously damaging it.... anyway I got it on the ramps and looked into the bottom of the intercooler wwhere the air enters and flows up towards the engine...a and low an behold I found loads of bits of metal (by the way I still aint found any past the intercooler) this leads me to believe that the intercooler caught all the metal as only air is small enough to pass through. Although I have been informed it does still happen.

I'm going to flush the cooler out and refit it tomorrow. I had to remove the bumber to get the cooler out.

I will start it tomorrow.....wish me luck, I don't need any more bad luck!!

chrisvrscrx
26-06-2007, 09:47 PM
Just tried to start it... No joy the engine turns fine but does not fires. I'm thinking the fault codes need to be reset because its coming up STOP on the dash,

Any thoughts???


I may call the AA out as I know they can clear fault codes.

chrisvrscrx
26-06-2007, 11:58 PM
wohoooo, got it going I had a think and realised the internals of the engine would be covered in dried/congiled oil. So I went back to the car and just kept turning the engine and it fired up (eventually), there was loads of smoke and I could hardly breathe, this must of been the oil burning off.... I drove the car very slowly hardly using the turbo, then gradually bringing the revvs up only really took it to 2750 rpm but what a difference from before there was no whisle sounds, it sounded just like my fabia vrs I had and pulled really well better than before....I am a very happy and lucky man. Touch wood all will be well from now on.

Comments welcome......

herby0001
27-06-2007, 12:58 AM
Chris, just read the whole thread, start to finish. Wow! Gripping story and lots of really useful information from all the contributors. Well done for perservering and I can imaging the sense of relief you got when the car fired up and you could drive it again (with better performance than before!) :biglaugh:

ajnabi
27-06-2007, 03:14 AM
Well done, and thank you for sharing this with us!

marcadams
27-06-2007, 12:13 PM
Thanks to all for the postings on this thread. I have just started seeing performance problems with my 98 1.9TDi SE Passat (sluggish and loss of acceleration around 1800-2000rpm in 3rd gear and above (especially on hills!!). Garage changed the MAF last week (previously done about 50k miles ago, car has now done 140k miles). Didn't really make much difference so I'm looking for other possible causes of the power loss. So far have collected the following from the forum:

 MAF (new one fitted last week may be faulty)
 The Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve sticking
 Wastegate actuating valve
 Spilt hose somewhere on the Turbo system
 N75 boost control
 Turbo fan not spinning correctly due to carbon from exhaust.
 Turbo dead.

If anyone has got any further ideas that I can investigate they would be much appreciated. I'd like to try to examine all other possibilities before buying a new turbo (for cost reasons!!).

Eugheugh
27-06-2007, 02:20 PM
Just cleaned the VNT mechanism and refitted the turbo on my TDI sport (a horrible, fiddly job I have to say) and the problem is still there. A mate who works for a dealership says that sometimes a new turbo is the only answer so I am probably going to have to shell out even though there appears to be nothing physically wrong with the one I have.
I am now turning my attention to the fuelling and will try changing the ECU when I can find one. There's very little power right from tickover though I ca get it up to 80mph on the M/way. Previous to dismantling the turbo I Tried the air mass meter (no joy), tried N75 (no joy), and cleaned the muck from the AGR (no joy). Incidentally, since I cleaned the EGR 2 months ago there has been a huge build up of oily soot that almost entirely blocked the EGR port. There are no vacuum leaks-I've inspected all the pipes and while the 2 elbowed pipes near the N75 are a little perished they aren't actually split. Has anyone got an ECU that I could borrow to try and isolate the problem as I am rapidly loosing faith in VW cars.

chrisvrscrx
28-06-2007, 11:12 AM
I never really got to change and bit (n75 etc) but I did check all the pipes and all was good. A VW ******* did diaganose that it did need a new turbo, they were right and I refused to believe it. I have lost alot of faith in VW cars but since changing my turbo the car has been so much better although I aint drove it much.

marcadams
28-06-2007, 03:02 PM
Just got a call from the garage who are looking at my loss of power problem:-
-Turbo spinning OK
-Plenty of pressure in the system
The only sensor that is reporting any problem is the Fuel shut off valve sensor which is strange as there is no over run when the engine is turned off.

This may be a red herring, or be being caused by another fault. If any one has any ideas they would be most appreciated.

Cheers

ini
28-06-2007, 03:12 PM
Some other causes for your limp mode problem could be a soot constricted inlet manifold, or a moving blockage in the CAT, temp sensor & fuel temp sensor.

If your TDI has the old style pressure sensor in the ECU (thin tube to ECU), there is a small length of tubing inside the metal body of the ECU, that connects the pressure sensor on the circuit board to the metal body of the ECU.

This degrades and causes pressure deviation problems.

Is your car a 90 or 110bhp model?

daveo
30-06-2007, 07:41 AM
Thanks to all for the postings on this thread. I have just started seeing performance problems with my 98 1.9TDi SE Passat (sluggish and loss of acceleration around 1800-2000rpm in 3rd gear and above (especially on hills!!). Garage changed the MAF last week (previously done about 50k miles ago, car has now done 140k miles). Didn't really make much difference so I'm looking for other possible causes of the power loss. So far have collected the following from the forum:

 MAF (new one fitted last week may be faulty)
 The Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve sticking
 Wastegate actuating valve
 Spilt hose somewhere on the Turbo system
 N75 boost control
 Turbo fan not spinning correctly due to carbon from exhaust.
 Turbo dead.

If anyone has got any further ideas that I can investigate they would be much appreciated. I'd like to try to examine all other possibilities before buying a new turbo (for cost reasons!!).
My problems are similar to marcadams with with Audi A6 1.8T. Audi technicians sysmatically worked through the turbo problems and have diagnosed a blocked CAT or turbo failure after replacing a number of hoses and MAF for a massive £350.00 for labour only. CAT replacement and exhaust box (at independent garage) due to be replaced next week for another £350. If that that doesnt work, I need to sell my body to buy a new turbo....

Help everyone, is there anything I can do myself. Is it easy to DIY a cat converter to keep the costs down? My Audi A6 is a R reg and main souce of commute....

ini
30-06-2007, 02:39 PM
Remove the CAT, smash out the insides and weld back up.

daveo
30-06-2007, 05:56 PM
the car will still need to pass the emissions test for MOT...How do you get past that with a crushed CAT?

chrisvrscrx
02-07-2007, 06:27 PM
Drove the car properly for the first time today, it felt really good but at about 3,000 revs there is loads of blue smoke out the back. Is this to be expected while all the old oil is still getting burn't out??

ini
02-07-2007, 06:56 PM
A CAT is not needed to pass the MOT.

They are mainly to help remove oxides of nitrogen, which are not tested for.

Huweth
02-07-2007, 07:47 PM
Drove the car properly for the first time today, it felt really good but at about 3,000 revs there is loads of blue smoke out the back. Is this to be expected while all the old oil is still getting burn't out??

Blue smoke is oil. There is likely to be some sitting around, so keep a close eye on it. If it doesn't start getting better soon you may be loosing oil, so a close eye on your oil level everyday would be worth it.

marcadams
02-07-2007, 08:34 PM
The garage I use said that I could book the car into a deisel engine specialist to confirm that the turbo is shot before they changed it which seemed like a good idea to me as it would only cost about £40 to test the car. (Passat is 90bhp by the way).

Anyway, the car is booked in Wednesday but I had still been driving it a bit and it has still been running like a tractor. Drove to work today slowly in the torrential rain so I didn't aquaplane off the road (about 35 mile drive). Left work and the weather had improved so I put my foot down on the hill leaving work and.....
the engine revved and the car shot up the hill just like it used to!!!

On the run back from work the car accelerated and drove just like it did before it went flat, so something has obvioiusly started working again.

As a non-mechanic it seems likely that something (valve maybe?) that was stuck has freed itself and eveything is back to normal.

I will still get it checked out by the deisel engine centre to see if they can identify what the problem was, as this maybe a temporary situation, and have a word with the garage to see if they have any ideas.

Interestingly the garage were very keen to change the turbo (even though they had confirmed that it was spinning OK when they tested it!) I did give them a big list of other things to check that I found out from this forum (listed in my first post) but I'm not so sure that they did a very good job!!

I will let you know what the deisel engine centre turns up but I have a feeling that they might draw a blank.

Cheers for all of the information on this forum, its given me enough ideas to challenge the garage and may have helped save me the price of a new (unnecessary?) turbo.

daveo
05-07-2007, 01:21 AM
A CAT is not needed to pass the MOT.

They are mainly to help remove oxides of nitrogen, which are not tested for.

The law still requires a CAT to be fitted to all cars registered from August 1992 anyway.

My CAT and rear box were changed at a cost of £350 today. The car is almost back to normal. The CAT internals had shattered, blocking the exhaust gases. Turbo confirmed as fine but there is some oil in the engine somewhere which i must sort out before my new CAt is damaged. E
ngine is fine but oil must have got there somehow?

Many thanks to you all on this forum for helping me get my Audi back on the road. Any ideas where the oil is from?? Car booked to another specialist next week. so far I have spent £800 replacing MAF, turbo waste pipes, CAT, rear exhaust box. I reckon that at the last service, Audi techicians put to much oil in the engine as my prolems started after its 120,000 mile service from hapless Audi.

chrisvrscrx
08-07-2007, 05:52 PM
Ive done a thousand miles the last couple of days and the car has been great. The smoke has stopped and all is good touch wood fingers crossed and all that. :biglaugh:

joneslt
08-07-2007, 09:02 PM
I've got a whining noise as well that must be coming from the turbo - after reading this long post I'm thinking the worst :(

I've just been out to check. When I rev my PD130 you can't hear it under the bonnet. It seems to resonate under the car. Is this familiar?

chrisvrscrx
09-07-2007, 09:22 AM
I could still hear mine, it sounds more like a whistle than a whine but I could see where your coming from! That noise was only there at low revs. Do you have any other symptons??

joneslt
09-07-2007, 10:28 PM
Power seems good, economy seems excellent. There seems to be muck around the intake pipe joins into and out of the intercooler. Seems to smoke if I burn away from lights - but I'm used to petrol cars

Cars seems fresh otherwise - done 60k with FSH and is 3.5 years old.

The noise is most noticeable when I back off.

David Carkett
11-09-2007, 05:42 PM
hi there, I have the same problem, did you sort it out? I am going to be cleaning the EGR valve at the week end.

marcadams
12-09-2007, 12:42 PM
hi there, I have the same problem, did you sort it out? I am going to be cleaning the EGR valve at the week end.

Interestingly that car fixed itself! The day before the it was due to go to be tested all power returned and has been there ever since (for about 2.5K miles).

I can only assume that the turbo was actually fine and it was the EGR valve sticking. Good luck.

Adie Brice
15-01-2008, 04:47 PM
beware
I was told that i needed new turbo due to veins being blocked with carbon
had new turbo fitted , all pipes replaced , intercooler cleaned and problem still there
my independent garage then sent it to main vw dealer who recommended new sensor and boost valve be fitted garage did this ta-da problem solved,

I asked my garage if it was possible that my turbo wasnt faulty and if they had replaced the 2 sensors 1st instead of sending my turbo to specialist the car may have been ok , WELL THEY REPLIED WE CAN ONLY TAKE THE TURBO COMPANYS REPORT AS CORRECT

result £1200 bill when it may only have been £160.00

check the small things 1st b4 some cowboy robs you

ashab02
15-01-2008, 08:51 PM
Ive had a look and can't find any leaks but i did find that the actuator was full of oil although it moved freely. i took sum pics of oil coming from a small hole the oil gets spat out when the engine is revved there is a hole on the other side where the oil is cummin out
Hello
In the pic you have provided is this part suppose to have oil on it?
What is this part called?

Eugheugh
15-01-2008, 10:38 PM
In the end it was the MAP sensor on my car. Cost £41 and is located on the intercooler trunking. Best to get a fault code read first though-mine only threw a fault code while driving under load, though was down on power all the time-unlike many cars that are fine 'til they go into 'limp-home' mode.

RIKTDI
16-01-2008, 12:44 PM
Hi I Had The Same Problem The Egr Valve Sends Burnt Exhaust Fumes Back In To Burn Them Again To Give Better Emissions.take The Pipe Of On The Top Of The Egr Valve If This Solves The Problem Just Put A Screw In The End Of The Pipe And Run It Without The Egr.i Have Done This And It Runs Spot On;)

chrisvrscrx
16-01-2008, 02:43 PM
Hello
In the pic you have provided is this part suppose to have oil on it?
What is this part called?

I've been told its normal to have oil coming from it.

mubsy812001
08-04-2009, 12:39 PM
Guys I have a very similar problem which needs fixing as I am pulling my hair out here!

I have a VW Passat 2001 1.9 TDI SE 130BHP. My car simply does not have any power. The turbo simply does not kick in and when going up a hill the car drags! when on the motorway even the slight steep hill then even micra's are overtaking me.

Reading some of the forums on here I changed the MAF and has still not made any difference.

I am a total novice with cars, I can do the small jobs but I can't get too technical and to be totally honest I need to do this job myself as I am struggling with money (Credit Crunch!).

Can someone tell me what is wrong with my car? also give me a step by step problem resolution, not just simply your x pipe is blocked, I need to know where the pipe is located (Pictures will be good) and show me how i can rectify the problem.

I need to sort this out and do it on my own so please please please can someone help me out on this one.

Thanks

PETER G
15-04-2009, 09:12 PM
I've been told its normal to have oil coming from it.


Chris did you ever find a good garage in the Liverpool area??
I had my Passat 1.9 tdi re-mapped about 18 months ago, but lately it is not running as well as it was, I have changed the MAF & Temp sensor, but now at a loss at what else to do.

hongkongstuey
15-04-2009, 11:22 PM
first thing i'd check after personal experience is vacuum pipes, check they are attached properly and not split or perished, inadvertantly knocked one out fixing coolant temp sensor and it had no boost at all, all the moisture and crap that gets in the engine bay sticks to the cloth webbing on pipes and just sit there eating away at the pipes, mine were knackered, i replaced them with silicone vacuum hosing.

this may help but i'd get a scan done.

Marc1
16-04-2009, 12:41 AM
Great read. I'm having similiar problems but at higher revs / under heavier load. This thread helps to try and identify some of the areas of possible concern. My EGR valuve was very oily like the OP's. I replaced this along with the elbow intercooler pipe in the back of it, plus the main front intercooler pipe as that was perished and startting to split (but not right through yet). Also replaced most vacuum hoses, but slil have an overboost issue resulting in limp mode. I'm not sure if I should have flushed the intercooler, or if this is a sign the turbo seals are going. I also don't know if vacuum line to the EGR actuator is supposed to hold vacuum at idle, as it currently does not. If I operate the actuator rod by hand, the engine starts to stall. I therfore think the internal flap is supposed to be open at idle / lower revs and then clsed later in the rev range, but how do I tell? And how do I know if the solenoid telling it to apply cvacuum is actually working? I currently don't know if these all count to the same problem or are misleading in the overboost issue. Any ideas chaps?

cazyp
16-04-2009, 01:03 AM
Check the egr actuator by watching it when the engine is shut down - it should shut the flap off for a second then open it. If not, the diaphragm in the actuator is split (common) and leaking vacuum. Can't be bought seperately!! £144 odd for a new EGR. You can also attach a 3mm pipe to it - if you can blow/suck then the diaphragm is split. For a temp' fix until your wallet can stretch to a new egr remove the tube to the plastic actuator and blank it off with a bolt or similar. Now test drive and see if it was the problem.
Some oil in the pipes/intercooler is normal.
MAP sensor is a more common fault than the MAFF due to the oily air that blows past it.
HTH.

hongkongstuey
16-04-2009, 01:27 AM
i have switched my egr off pretty much with vag com, think its running just enough to enable anti shudder to still work, as no decent system does a partial by pass without totally blocking off i saw it as the only option, passed my emmisions test today anyway :biglaugh: it does smoke under full throttle but not a lot, can see a haze in whichever car thought he was quickers headlights at night anyway :beerchug:
only things ive done to mine is replaced all vacuum pipes bar the larger n75 valve 4mm pipe and replaced/aquired new jubilee stainless hose clamps courtesy of perkins gas spec eninges :biglaugh: water pump to thermo pipe clips, wider than normal and better quality :beerchug: aint a chance they are popping off, use them on 2000+hp 60 litre v16's :biglaugh:

Marc1
16-04-2009, 01:32 PM
Cheers for the advise guys. I'll check the EGR tonight when shutting down. EGR has been replaced now - damn tricky getting that last hex bolt off the inlet maniford, lol.

I've checked the N75 hose? (the rubber one going to the tubro actuator) but that holds vacuum so didn't replace. Replaced most of the small rope covered ones, as some seemed a bit warn but not all the way through.

Marc1
16-04-2009, 08:42 PM
EGR actuator did suck in on shut down 2 seconds later popped back out, so I think it's all working as it should now. Thanks for the info :beerchug:

cazyp
16-04-2009, 09:50 PM
Thats working then. Must be either the MAP / sticky turbo vanes (can be cleaned) or a hidden vacuum leak then.

Marc1
17-04-2009, 12:16 AM
Cheers CrazyP, I'll get there in the end. It's an annopying process in one respect. On the other hand I'm learning loads about the car :approve:

Bodferret
10-05-2009, 07:59 PM
I have a 52 plate 130 TDI Sport Estate with 141,000 mile on it.

I have had it from new and only had one problem previously. All sorted lurking here :) (Wet rear foot well from crap by pollen filter)

Anyway, two days ago I had the whooshing of air that has been described here with the lack of power also. It happens about 1500-2000 RPM and has got louder and worse over the past few days (and 800 miles). It is constant when using the turbo not intermittent.

Now when I drive it (with the turbo in) I get the noise (very loud with the window open) and it hesitates to deliver the power - almost like it is cutting out for a brief moment. Then loads of grey/black smoke out of the back and then off. The smoke disappears then.

Anyway after reading this and a few other posts I tried to find the leak and the illusive L-pipe that always has the 4" split in it (where exactly is it!) as I am convinced it is an air leak.

I took off the inter cooler's 90 degree pipe (the small one at the top) to look at the pipes below and they all looked OK. However the inside of the pipe was pretty oily/sludgy and around the housing that it goes into (whatever that is but chrisvrscrx (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/member.php?u=11434) has some pictures of it in an earlier post), that was oily too. As too was the connection down at the front bottom.

As it is very loud I am assuming it is coming from a BIG pipe rather than the little vacuum hoses. Sound reasonable?

Anyone fixed theirs yet?

Maybe not related but when I start the car I get a lot of smoke out the back for about 20 seconds, then it is fine (well used to be before the whooshing/hiss). Sometimes it revs at about 1200 RPM when starting too before settling down and does it occasionally when idling (normal engine temp) too. Thought that might be the air flow meter.

I service every 10,000 rather than variable by the way. I will read out the codes later and post them if they are of use.

Thanks

You have just described to the T what is happening to my own car...2003 audi a4 130 brake

martin1810
10-05-2009, 08:08 PM
Bodferret you need to put up the codes if you have them.

Marc1
11-05-2009, 10:57 AM
Guys, my overboost problem has now been rectified :biglaugh:.
Took the car to 'a8 tech' from this forum on Saturday. Really nice chap and know's a great deal about the VW/ Audi's. My actuator was sticking a little and there was some play in the turbine. Wipped my turbo off, showed me the problem areas, put one of his spare turbos on (a very low mileage part) and all was well. Talked him through all the other niggles I had around the car and got loads of great advise. Even made me a cup of coffee :approve:. I won't say how much it cost me but it was an abolute steal.

Really couldn't get the level of service, advise, reassurance, diagnostics, labour or parts individually for the price. Really top bloke and my motor has a new lease of life. I know he has another spare turbo and can offer a great deal of expertise and experience, so if any of you are quick enough you may be able to benefit as I did - send him a PM.
:beerchug:

pete99
20-07-2010, 05:34 PM
Why can I never find these :zx11: thanks anyway I'm looking on the German ebay now, Thanks

WHY ? because when you dont want/need one- they are always cheap and are lots about..
And when you want/ need one --there are none available.
Its sods law !!

Before anyone says anything --I KNOW its a old post.
Reason I'm looking at it--is because today after having my audi A6 C5 1.9 sat on the drive for 3 weeks-- (only started and moved back and forth to let me get my van out) --i had to do a 50 mile return trip.

2 miles to motorway- then into non-van comfort. Boxed in by traffic- but eventually pulled out onto 'runway 3 '.
Coasted along at 70 for a few miles-and decided to blow the cobwebs away.
Up to 85 -and that was it -- 'like a limp ****' eager to go- but just couldn't rise to the occaision.
Dropped to 80 -and that was it . No 'Mojo' left.

Average speed camera area came up--so slowed to 50 . Had to drop into 4th to keep speed up.
9 miles to my destinatation- so just played it by ear.
Inside lane- looked at all instruments, (normal) listened for funny noises (none).
Got to destination- 15 mins later- back in car - and set off back home .
ALL normal- ran like a train (sort of-- no delays though).

My mind was going 20 to the dozen MAF etc - Turbo (hope not).

Acceleration/speed was normal (mach 1) .
Not run it since .

Anyone think its coz it has been 'stood' for a while--in all this crappy damp weather ?.

ps --sorry to hijack this thread in a belated sort of way .
Pete

martin1810
20-07-2010, 07:22 PM
Best guess. It went into limp mode because of overboost and coked turbo vanes. When you switched it off, it reset. While it's like this give it some long hot runs just below the threshold of dropping into limp mode. If it drops into it a few times you will learn what revs to keep below. This might blow some carbon out and free the vanes a bit.

pete99
20-07-2010, 07:28 PM
Best guess. It went into limp mode because of overboost and coked turbo vanes. When you switched it off, it reset. While it's like this give it some long hot runs just below the threshold of dropping into limp mode. If it drops into it a few times you will learn what revs to keep below. This might blow some carbon out and free the vanes a bit.
Thanks Martin-- I'll follow your advice.

Just gotta say though-- I only do around 3k or less in the car each year .
Bit sad really - but--it looks good sat on the drive .:D.
Dont quite like the thought of it sat on the drive too long though :confused:

rob_bot
23-08-2010, 09:39 PM
Anyway, two days ago I had the whooshing of air that has been described here with the lack of power also. It happens about 1500-2000 RPM and has got louder and worse over the past few days (and 800 miles). It is constant when using the turbo not intermittent.

Now when I drive it (with the turbo in) I get the noise (very loud with the window open) and it hesitates to deliver the power - almost like it is cutting out for a brief moment. Then loads of grey/black smoke out of the back and then off. The smoke disappears then.

Anyway after reading this and a few other posts I tried to find the leak and the illusive L-pipe that always has the 4" split in it (where exactly is it!) as I am convinced it is an air leak.

I took off the inter cooler's 90 degree pipe (the small one at the top) to look at the pipes below and they all looked OK. However the inside of the pipe was pretty oily/sludgy and around the housing that it goes into (whatever that is but chrisvrscrx (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/member.php?u=11434) has some pictures of it in an earlier post), that was oily too. As too was the connection down at the front bottom.

As it is very loud I am assuming it is coming from a BIG pipe rather than the little vacuum hoses. Sound reasonable?

Anyone fixed theirs yet?


Found the problem shortly after as the bottom intercooler pipe. An earth strap (I think) had rubbed a hole in it which then got much larger much quicker causing the hiss to become a whoosh. £70 odd for the pipe from the dealers and all sorted.

Just in case anyone else has the same problem...

Davob
23-08-2010, 11:22 PM
Hello,

I have a 05 passat estate 1.9tdi highline (auto) Today, I was driving the car and it was going great. Stopped off to go to the cash point, got back in the car and got the "Emissions Workshop" error on the dash and the car would go up to tick over and then stall. I tried to start it a few times and manged to get it into neutral and the car would rev without any power and loads of white smoke.

The AA came and he said that it was a dead turbo as there was oil coming up the dipstick when he took it out. Does this sound right? Anyway, it has been towed to a garage and they informed me over the phone it sounds like a turbo gone even though they had not looked at it. I am going to see them tomorrow and ask them to check the pipes and and the egr as suggested here.

If anyone could give me any other advice it would be much appreciated. Does it sound like the engine could be damaged also?

Cheers

Davob
25-08-2010, 11:21 PM
Hello,

Now the garage where I have my car are saying that it is the EGR Valve. Could someone tell me if this sounds correct with this type of error as the price of this over here in Ireland is 300 euro:mad:

Thanks a mill for anyone that has any ideas

passat 130 tdi
26-08-2010, 07:49 AM
Hello,

Now the garage where I have my car are saying that it is the EGR Valve. Could someone tell me if this sounds correct with this type of error as the price of this over here in Ireland is 300 euro:mad:

Thanks a mill for anyone that has any ideas

to eliminate the egr simply take the big air pipe off it make sure the flap inside is closed and then refit the big pipe , now , take off the vacuum pipe from the diaphram on top of the egr and blank off the hose . you will have a warning light on the dash but at least this way you can see if the egr is playing a part in the problem or not.

Davob
26-08-2010, 08:32 AM
Hi,

Thanks for that, much appreciated. I will let the garage know.

Cheers

rob_bot
26-08-2010, 11:01 AM
you will have a warning light on the dash
What warning light is that? I had mine disconnected for 50k and had no warning light (or obvious issues).
AFAIK all the EGR does is makes your engine eat its own poo to meet emissions so it doesn't need to be connected anyway.
Sure someone will be along to correct me/explain further if that is not the case..

passat 130 tdi
26-08-2010, 01:32 PM
What warning light is that? I had mine disconnected for 50k and had no warning light (or obvious issues).
AFAIK all the EGR does is makes your engine eat its own poo to meet emissions so it doesn't need to be connected anyway.
Sure someone will be along to correct me/explain further if that is not the case..

post 2004 - 2005 ish models , the light comes on ( emissions warning )

martin1810
26-08-2010, 01:38 PM
What warning light is that? I had mine disconnected for 50k and had no warning light (or obvious issues).
AFAIK all the EGR does is makes your engine eat its own poo to meet emissions so it doesn't need to be connected anyway.
Sure someone will be along to correct me/explain further if that is not the case..

Some newer cars have an ecu that calculates air flow via the MAF. When the EGR valve opens the MAF flow figure drops. Newer cars measure this drop. If it doesn't happen it assumes an EGR fault and puts the light on.
So on some cars you get a light and on most you don't.

Davob
26-08-2010, 01:42 PM
I get the "Emissions Workshop" warning and when I start the car it goes to tickover and then dies. If I try to rev the car before it dies then there is no power at all. Does this sound like the EGR Valve?

Cheers

rob_bot
26-08-2010, 01:46 PM
post 2004 - 2005 ish models , the light comes on ( emissions warning )

Ah. Don't have one that new :Blush: Good to know though - thanks.

martin1810
26-08-2010, 03:09 PM
I get the "Emissions Workshop" warning and when I start the car it goes to tickover and then dies. If I try to rev the car before it dies then there is no power at all. Does this sound like the EGR Valve?

Cheers

You should get a code read. It will save time in the end. It could be the EGR jammed open. Take the pipe off and have a look. It should be closed when the engine is off. If not, push it shut, pull off the vacuum hose and block the hose with a bolt. If it now runs ok, you know the problem is the EGR.

Davob
26-08-2010, 10:01 PM
Thanks for that, will get the garage to try that tomorrow.

Cheers

Davob
27-08-2010, 08:24 PM
Hi,

just an update on the issue.

The garage replaced the EGR valve and it started great. They took it for a test drive and was ok. They phoned me to tell me to pick it up. When I arrived the car had exactly the same issue. They put it back on diags and these are the error codes that it is now throwing up:

17932 P1524 Fuel Pump Relay (J17), Open or Short to Ground
17849 P1441 EGR Valve (N18), Circuit Open / Short to Ground
18027 P1619 Glow Plug / Heater Relay, Circuit Open / Short to Ground

They think it could be the connections on the injectors or a problem with the wiring loom.

I found a case online with these errors and it was a faulty solder joint on the ECU.

Any ideas would be much appreciated

Cheers

Dave

martin1810
27-08-2010, 09:10 PM
Try pulling the glowplug relay out and giving it a tap/shake and push back in. It is on the relay plate under drivers side dash. It should be blue, probably with 202 on it.

Davob
27-08-2010, 09:51 PM
Hi Martin,

Thanks for that. We did take the relay out and reseated it. We also took the 167 relay out and took the cover off to make sure that it was working ok which it was.

We also took the rocker cover off and pulled off and re-connected the wires to the injectors - but still the same issue.

Cheers

Dave

martin1810
28-08-2010, 09:57 AM
Try checking the glowplug relay terminals for power. One is a live feed for the plugs, one is the relay energiser live. I can't remember which is which but it shouldn't be hard to work out.
OR more likelt check the terminal 30, ecu relay J317. (109). In the box under the bonnet. It should be possible to jump it and start the engine if this is at fault.

Davob
28-08-2010, 11:30 AM
Hi Martin,

thanks a million for that. Will get onto the garage first thing monday to check this out.

Cheers

Dave

passat 130 tdi
29-08-2010, 08:42 AM
no bank holiday ????

Davob
29-08-2010, 09:34 PM
No bank holiday here in Ireland. The bank holiday is at the start of august over here not at the end as in England.

Davob
31-08-2010, 06:51 PM
The garage has come back to me and have said that the ECU has been spiked at some point. They say that it is shutting off some valve on the EGR. So they have blocked off the pipe and the car is up and running. I know this is sketchy, but it was a bad line and I am picking it up tomorrow so I will know more then.

They have suggested that it should go to a main dealers for a new ECU. Any thoughts on this would be much appreciated.

Regards

David

Davob
01-09-2010, 05:02 PM
Hello all,


I have picked the car up from the garage. It is working, but without the turbo, so there is no power at all. They have blocked a vacuum pipe with a bolt that goes into a valve at the top of the EGR.

They explained that the ECU is sending the wrong signal to the valve and shutting it off, therefore, shutting down the engine. This is why they have blocked the pipe so that the car will actually start.

They indicated that the ECU will have to be either be repaired or replaced.

I would like to know if this sounds correct?

Davob
01-09-2010, 06:49 PM
just done some searching about and the garage have actually blanked off the vacuum hose to the anti shudder valve.

BTW
02-10-2010, 12:00 PM
Joneslt--what was the outcome of your whinning turbo problem ? I now have the same.

RIKTDI
03-02-2011, 10:20 AM
Hi ive had this problem this is the exhaust gas recurcalation valve
try pulling rubber pipe off the top and put a big screw in the pipe
you dont need the egr valve and your car will run better without it. you can even buy egr blanking plates off ebay for a few qid . the egr works by pumping ****** exhaust fumes back in to the engine to make it b3etter for enviroment but this clogs up your inlet
also this sounds like sticky veins in the vnt turbo .this can b solved by a quick prosidure which i found and tried off of the net
remove the shiney bent pipe linking the egr valve to the turbo manifold
push some 3mm tubing down the hole making sure it goes down in to the turbo not laft or right. get some mr muscell oven cleaner shake well and push the other end of the 3mm tube on to the mr muscell nossel
when you can see the white foam cumming out of the hole the tube goes in to stop and leave to clean for 3 hours. in this time you can try to move the actuator rod on the turbo to work the vnt veins and get the cleaner working. this whole process only takes 15 mins and can be repeated a few times to get best results
after the 3 hour wait take it for a spin and giv it sum thrash .try to stay above 3000 rpm to get it nice and hot
i did this and mine was like a new car :beerchug:

Alicavi
02-03-2015, 07:06 PM
Hi guy's relizes this is an old thread but I have been having some problems with over boosting. I have a passat 1.9 tdi 2001 awx 130 codes P1557/17965 there's a noise when you back of the throttle checked all pipes. Movement of the acutater on turbo appears to be moving. When it was cold drove it up ramp and went inside for tea got back to it sprayed some wd40 on actuator and moved back and with long screw driver seems to be moving fine checked bearing on turbo spindle no abnormal movement. Noise is like bad dump valve . I have no bad smoke from exhaust http://youtu.be/mjYcYx2pLmY this is my car sounds any advice i would be greatly appreciated Thanks Ali

maccaone
30-09-2015, 10:06 PM
Ive got a similar problem 1.8 turbo a3 when you start her up there's a spinning noise turbo I expect then stops after 10-15 secs well the other day I started it and instead of the spinning noise it now goes high pitch and doesn't sound right car drives fine though has anyone got any ideas.