View Full Version : Please Help Octavia- Central locking keeps locking.

17-01-2010, 01:46 PM
Hi I have a problem with my electrical central locking on my Octavia Estate 1.9DTI 2003 (53 plate). On Christmas Eve after locking the car with the key ( the battery in the remote fob having run out, so have been using the key ), I could hear the central locking was operating the locks trying to unlock and lock repeatedly this would stop after a minute and continue a few minutes later, this cycle went on for few hours. I was worried the battery would drain overnight, so disconnected the earth connection and left the car overnight disconnected.
All was fine, until last Wednesday, when the same thing happened, and has continued ever since. Plus, now the doors automatically lock when the ignition is on and we are driving along. When the central locking button on the door arm rest is depressed this unlocks all doors, but the doors lock straight away again. We now disconnect the battery whenever the car is parked.
I have removed the battery from the remote key fob, no real difference.
I have checked my owner’s manual for fuse assignment list, way no 6 is designated central locking control unit – but this is not fitted. Way no 38 is designated luggage light central locking, remote fuel filler – 10A, or central locking and interior light 15A, I do have a fuse in this position but it is 1.5A, not 15A may be a misprint as the same error occurs on most of the ways 38 to 43 i.e. out by factor of 10. I have removed fuse 38, central locking does not work, nor the filler flap but interior lights etc continue to work.
Can anyone confirm if it is acceptable to use the car without this fuse in place. Will this prevent the the system trying to lock and unlock and therefore drain the battery. Can I now leave the battery connected at all times and manual lock the doors. Any thoughts on what the problem is and how it may be resolved without going to the main dealer and costing the earth. The omens are not good having reviewed similar Octavia problems on the net. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Issac Hunt
17-01-2010, 07:48 PM
Get is scanned for faults with VCDS for starters.

Could be a water leak into one of the front door control modules?

17-01-2010, 11:46 PM
Get is scanned for faults with VCDS for starters.

Could be a water leak into one of the front door control modules?
Hi Issac

Many thanks for your response.

Probably best if I obtain the services of an auto electrician, rather than go to a main dealer.

Thanks again.


Issac Hunt
18-01-2010, 01:03 PM
Just find someone near you with VCDS who can scan it for you for nothing!

Check the location thread on here for someone near you.....

18-01-2010, 03:14 PM
i've got the same problem and its only started happening since the bad weather

21-01-2010, 02:28 PM
Hi mawb,

Have you managed to make any progress with this, only my 03 Octavia Elegance TDI has just started doing this too. I have virtually identical symptoms, summarised as follows:

The car locks itself (whether in use or stood dormant, ignition off et al) without any human intervention whatsoever. When it does this, generally any attempt to unlock it results in the car immediately re-locking itself.
When already locked and red LED on door is flashing, all of a sudden (again without any deliberate external trigger) it will occassionally go through a cycle of repeatedly going into Safe locked mode (i.e. red LED off, so not deadlocked), then a number of seconds later coming back out of Safe locked mode (i.e. red LED flashing again, so re-deadlocked).

Incidentally, car battery voltage is all fine (checked that already), so it's all really annoying. I currently have the battery earth lead disconnected but will try taking the central locking fuse out (if I can get it to lock in Safe mode without the deadlocks!). That will hopefully at least enable me to still safely lock (and therefore use) the car.

Please can you post an update when you manage to make progress with yours.

Also, if anybody else reading this can shed any light on where to start looking to sort this, please advise - all input gratefully received.

Many thanks,


21-01-2010, 05:01 PM
ive found that if i unlock the rear door and open it before it locks then unlock it while open all doors stay unlocked

22-01-2010, 01:39 AM
Funny you should mention that, geoffrocks. However, with mine, if I am quick enough to open the driver's door when attempting to unlock the car, then keep the (driver's) door open, the self-triggering locking stops completely for as long as the door is open. However, if I try the same trick with any other door, the central locking still re-locks itself.

Obviously, keeping the driver's door open all the time is not the answer. I have taken the central locking fuse out now, but interestingly the boot lock motor still has a tendency to self-lock, albeit after anything up to a couple of minutes. Acc to the (not very good) schematic diagram in the workshop manual (i.e. the one produced by a well-known publisher that will remain nameless!), the boot lock motor appears to be powered direct from the Convenience Unit, separate to the rest of the central locking system. Does this all suggest the problem lies in/with the Convenience Unit? If so, where exactly is the damn thing and do they suffer any specific common ailments (i.e. water ingress, dry joints that can be easily resoldered, etc.)?

Thanks in anticipation for any tips / info,


23-01-2010, 02:27 AM
should call it an inconveniance unit, contacted Skoda uk they dont want to know just pass the buck to local dealer, my car is parked on a steep drive wonded if that had anything to do with it as water could get in to the boot door and its possible it could get into the lock

23-01-2010, 02:30 AM
by the way mine is a 53 Octavia Elegance TDI Estate

24-01-2010, 01:07 AM
Good news! I was given some tips from some of the guys on the BRISKODA forum about the nsr wiring loom and problems caused by the washer fluid pipe leaking, giving everything in the area a good wash.

I took a look in the bowels of the CD changer compartment this morning to find it swimming in washer fluid. Result: the block of 3 multi-pin connectors (one black, one white, one dirty yellow, all mounted in a row in front of the light cluster) were saturated and had clearly been suffering for a while. The worst one of the 3 was the four-pin (dirty yellow) one for the tailgate lock switch and motor wiring. In fact, one of the wires (the black/blue one) was so bad, it fell off its terminal.

A good clean-up, a spray of contact treatment oil and a by-pass wire for the black/blue wire later and normal service has been fully restored in the central locking - no gremlins whatsoever. I've been using the car all day since sorting the problem this morning and it has behaved impeccably, so I can rest easy now.

As for the root cause - i.e. the washer fluid leak - that was due to the join in the pipe (running parallel to and underneath the wiring loom) having popped apart, but not quite parted fully. Regardless, it was enough to cause it to leak. A quick clean up, a dab of vaseline and a quick push back together (with a positive click) and that is also now water-tight once again.

So, all sorted, and not a penny spent!!! To say I'm chuffed would be an understatement.:biglaugh:

For Geoffrocks: Yours is the exact same model as mine and might be suffering from exactly the same problem. If you're parking yours on a slope with the back end facing down hill, the multi-pin connectors referred to above will probably be getting a wash every time you wash-wipe the back window, and just to exacerbate things, they may then also be sat immersed in a pool of washer fluid when the car is parked up on your drive.

Genuine thanks to all that offered tips on possible causes - much appreciated.:beerchug: Hope my findings help others with similar problems.

Best rgds,


25-01-2010, 07:13 PM
I have a 2002 octavia(sdi) estate with the same problem and wipers working on thier own, sun roof opening and closing. Went to local dealer and was told the problem was the Convenience Control Unit. Trouble is I cannot find where this is as I would have a look to see if I can repair it myself (I'm a electronics engineer) or get the part number and see if I can buy another one cheaper elsewhere. The dealer quoted me £300 for a supply and fit. Hopefully this is the same as mine.

25-01-2010, 07:56 PM
many thanks its all fixed, looked in the area you said and yep their was water. it must be caused by the rear washer freezing and when the rear wash wipe was operated it forced water out of the connection on mine the connection hadnt come off. once again thanks, its saved alot of money.

25-01-2010, 09:03 PM
Result! Glad to hear you got it sorted, only too pleased to offer advice based on what was causing mine to behave as it did.



25-01-2010, 11:49 PM
Hi Lampman/Geofrocks.
Apologies for not replying sooner I have been away and not able to get to my emails.
I removed fuse no 38 a week or ago, this isolates the central locking unit and filler flap not aware of anything else having been affected. I have not been able to track down a free wiring diagram.
This enables me to open the driver’s door only manually using the key and once inside I can the open all other doors manually.
I have noticed a similar problem experienced by Geoffrocks with the boot lock closing automatically when opening with the key, even with controller isolated – fuse 38 removed. This is does not always happens, I overcome this by depressing the boot door handle at the same time as turning the key in the boot lock.
I have been using the car for a week with no problems, other than the inconvenience.
Not sure where to go from here, other than call an auto electrician, I am very reluctant to take to a main dealer. It may improve with the drier weather, although this obviously is not an acceptable long term solution.

25-01-2010, 11:59 PM
Forgot to mention.
Will check my CD changer and washer pipework etc for leaks. Will try the rear washer to check for evidance of water and trace the pipework. Hopefully I will find the cause and repair.
Thanks for input and time.

26-01-2010, 01:39 AM
Hi mawb,

If yours is anything like mine and geoffrocks', then you hopefully shouldn't need to go through the tortuous process of trying to trace the pipework from the washer nozzle on the tailgate. Instead, proceed as follows:

1. Open boot.
2. Open left-hand compartment in inside of boot (i.e. where the CD changer is if it's an Elegance).
3. Look into bottom of this compartment for a pool of washer fluid. If there's any there, that's your problem.
4. The (3x) multi-pin connectors (one black, one white, one dirty yellow) sit straight in front of the NSR light cluster, directly underneath the CD changer (if you have one).
5. To gain good access to everything that needs attention, remove the CD changer (just 4 Torx head screws and it will lift out - easy).
6. Clean/dry the multi-pin connectors and spray a bit of WD40 - or better still, contact treatment oil (Electrolube is good) - onto the terminal pins to promote a better contact and repel moisture.
7. Ref the source of the leak, look for the black washer pipe that is slightly hidden underneath the main loom running for-to-aft in the bottom of this compartment. It has an obvious join that has probably popped apart. Push the join back together (all the way 'til it clicks together) and that should sort the leak itself (i.e. the root cause).
As the great saying goes, reassembly is the reverse of removal. Job done.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

26-01-2010, 09:46 AM
Hi Lapman

Many many thanks for your prompt, full and expert response, the step by step approach is just what I needed. I hope its the same problem.

I recall my wife had a problem on one occasion last week with the rear wiper motor intermittently operating etc.

It may have to wait until the weekend till I can investigate further as I dont have a garage and it dark when I get home. Will keep you informed of progress.


26-01-2010, 03:16 PM
Hi Lampman

Thanks as well, have just had a look and found the plugs and sockets, sadly also found the washer hose as you mentioned mine had come slightly apart as was still getting some water through but also spraying these connectors. Now I have to go and find where I can purchase some as the have corroded and now needs to be replaced. So it is a trip to ebay and god forbid the dreaded dealership.

26-01-2010, 07:33 PM
Hi All

Looked on ebay for connectors and have found some under Block connectors, but not the same colours. Contacted dealer and was told they can supply the pins with the wiring attached at a cost of £3.78 + VAT each. So am going to look at another way maybe terminal block inside a waterproof box. Dealer asked for the chasis number and the part number, which if anyone wants I will post the part numbers on here, if they have a 2002 Skoda Octavia 1.9sdi estate probaly the same on other models aswell., but wouldn't like to say for definate.

27-01-2010, 02:38 AM

Not sure how skilled you are with a soldering iron, but if you need to replace any of the multi-pin connectors you have a couple of options that hopefully won't break the bank:

1. Nip down the breakers to chop out the connectors you require. Keep a couple of inches of loom on each side, to give you enough spare to play with. Then, chop out the bad connectors on yours and solder-join the replacement in (by using a wire-to-wire soldered joint). Obviously you will need to insulate the joints to protect from the elements and also prevent shorting out. I normally use flexible rubber sleeving or heat-shrink sleeves, as tape is scruffy and can fall even off when it gets cold/damp.


2. Assuming it's just the four-pin connector you need (dirty yellow one for the central locking switch and motor wiring to the tailgate), go to Maplins and buy the four-pin male and female power connector plug/socket kits that are normally used for hard drives in computers. See link here http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1317


27-01-2010, 05:49 PM
Hi Lampman

Thanks for the ideas, I am very good with soldering iron. I have used screw terminal block to get it done for now until I can find a breakers near to me to get the plugs and some extra wiring loom, I will then splice the new into the old further back and use heat shrink to protect the joints.

Unfortunately I need all three plugs and sockets, so am going to look on ebay aswell for the plugs and sockets. I am now going to try and re program the remotes using the details I found on another site, if it works will paste the instructions on this site if not will need to find the location of the CCU and have a look at that.


30-01-2010, 03:36 PM
Hi Lampman.
Update as promised.
Found water stagnant pool to side of the CD changer unit, this explains the smell we had noticed recently.
Followed your instructions, removed changer and found connector had slightly loose, but still able to wash the rear screen. Dried out the compartment with a hair drier, disconnected plug and sockets and cleaned with WD40.
Replaced fuse 38 and have just tested everything using the key only, all looks ok and working – all doors locks when I use the key in the driver’s door. I have not tested the remote yet will wait until tomorrow, as I have removed the battery from the key fob. Hopefully all will be ok.
I noticed all windows opened automatically when I first locked all doors manually with the key. This I guess is the system resetting.
Many, many thanks once again, can’t begin to think how much you have saved me.
Kind regards.

12-02-2010, 12:58 AM
Hi Mawb,

Apologies for delayed reply; been working away and haven't had internet access 'til now.

Glad you got it sorted and to have been of help.

Best rgds,


27-09-2013, 02:53 PM
I have an Octavia 2003 1.9tdi saloon . I wonder if Mawb ran his car ok with the fuse out with no problems, I see this fuse 38 also services the fuel cap, what did he do when needing fuel. Am also having problems with central locking, may need to take this fuse out myself, hoping it does not trigger the immobilser, would have to put it back in every time I refuel