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pat123fish
27-11-2009, 11:47 PM
My first post
Hi i am an owner of a 2006 Passat 2.0 sport diesel 170bhp.Ive had it 7 months now and really love it.It has 48000 miles on the clock
I have really enjoyed looking through the forums and have learnt quite a bit from them.I have solved a few squeaks and rattles from the advice.
It has now just run out of warranty and i intend to do the maintainance myself ,as in oil, filters and the basics.
However does any one know how i find out if it is a PD engine and if it has a pdf .
It has always been on longlife service and i intend to change it to every 10,000 or yearly now and have also found on this site that when i change the oil and reset the service it will default to the time distance.Is this true.
Anyone any other recommendations for me.When should i change the Timing belt and finally can i change the front disc pads without Vagcom?(i know the rears need it but not sure on the fronts)
Thanks again for this great forum

patomlin76
28-11-2009, 12:58 AM
Hi

welcome to the forum.

from memory I believe that when you manually reset the service (by pressing down certain combinations of buttons), it will default to time/distance servicing intervals, even if it was previously on long-life... i was told by an indie that to reset to longlife needed VAG-COM - indeed, my service button now states 18,000 to next service.

As far as the engine type is concerned, there is a recent thread discussing this, but basically any car built from mid-2008 is, I think, a common-rail diesel. So yours is almost certainly a PD engine.

Finally, not sure that you need VAG-COM for the front pads, as they aren't controlled by the EPB.

Hope this is helpful!!

Paul

Quatrelle
28-11-2009, 12:56 PM
Hi and welcome. Interesting you didn't complain about the handbrake!

If you have read the threads you will have realised there are some very knowledgeable people on here, who know a lot more about the cars (shall we say 'closer' to VW?) than some of us amateurs.

The front pads don't need Vagcom.

To the best of my knowledge, all PD (which, as Patomlin says, yours is) 170s have DPFs.

There are various threads about when to change the cambelt (one quite recently), because there seems to be some confusion. Have you done a search on the B6 forum?

pat123fish
28-11-2009, 01:47 PM
Hi thanks for the quick replies.
I know my way around a car as a pretty basic DIY mechanic/enthusiast.
But before i start to care for it myself i want to know the basics on the car/model.
I have just had it serviced at £140 for oil and filter and i know which oils should be used now its out of warranty.I had it serviced as it was due and through reading through these posts and identifying the same symptoms i noticed 2 new bottom wishbone bushes needed attention as well as a hiccup at 1800/2000 rpm.Again all from info on this site all was put right under warranty and in the dealers credit they informed me of a leak on the turbo booster pipe.They changed it.
Now its mine to play with, i looked under the bonnet and looked around,changed all the other filters and noticed i could not see the glow plugs and injectors.
So a big thanks to you all already but HOW do i find out for def if it is a PD engine,
Just to note as well a few have mentioned rattles in the B pillars,i found out after a few months of this with me that the rubber seals around the doors were to blame ,after using silicon spray the car is so quiet i feel deaf,i would not have believed this to be the cause,

Quatrelle
28-11-2009, 02:23 PM
As Patomlin says, they were all PD engines until about mid/end 2008. One of the reasons they went to common rail were changing US regulations. CR engines are also cheaper to produce.

pat123fish
28-11-2009, 02:40 PM
Quatrelle,
is there anything i need to be aware of or at least keep up to with these engines/cars.So far all is well and it has 48000 on the clock.Apart from the usual basics,which i dont understand that there is so long between certain replacements ,i.e. fuel filters and the air and a/c filters,i know i will be changing mine more regular than the dealer recommends.
You mention the handbrake?i aint had no probs so far,not sure on the previous owner but is there a problem common to this?
Thanks again

martin1810
28-11-2009, 05:51 PM
It is a pd engine. If you service reset using the display button it will set to 10,000m or annual. The rear pads need vag-com or similar, the fronts don't need anything. The current recommended cam belt time is 75k but VW have issued memo's ranging from 60k to 80k. It is time dependent and should be done every 4/5 years if you don't do the mileage. The sticker next to the fuel filler or the handbook should say if you have dpf. I find it just as easy to do a full service every year rather than try to remember what is due.

Quatrelle
28-11-2009, 05:59 PM
A lot of owners moan about the handbrake, that they can't get on with it etc. - my wife won't drive ours because of it. It just takes a bit of getting used to. I don't have a problem with it.

There have been a couple of mentions on here of the button failing, and someone actually suggested it let itself off when the car was unattended.

Because these forums tend to attract people with problems you will find what you need to be aware of here.

pat123fish
28-11-2009, 06:40 PM
Thanks all.
Martin when you mention a full service, apart from from oil,oil filter,fuel filter and air filter do you do anything else.
Also what are the views on the brake fluid being changed bi-yearly,is this straight forward as in the bleeding out and putting fresh in(ive changed it before in other cars) not too sure on what can be done at home and what requires the vag-com to do things.
One last question on the servicing do you use genuine parts or quality after market ones?

mikecb1
29-11-2009, 04:03 PM
pat123fish

In an earlier post you mentioned a rattle around the B pillar, and that you fixed it with silicon spray. Could you say a bit more about the problem, and the spray you used.

Mike

martin1810
29-11-2009, 10:25 PM
Hi Pat. I do the pollen filter as well. It's so much easier to do brake fluid change with a pressure bleeder that it's probably worth paying VW to do it. You can do it yourself the old fashioned way of pumping the pedal. I get the bits from euro car parts. Last time about £75 all in including oil. Good luck.

pat123fish
30-11-2009, 01:33 PM
Mikecb1
Yes there was a horrible rattle from the B-pillar (between the front door closing and the rear door hinge area.I had it to the dealers and they replaced part of the lower inner plastic case.It made no difference at all.They then said it was the button and mechanism that you put on if there is an animal in the car and you want to set the alarm.Any way again they replaced this(all under warranty).Still no difference.They didn't have a clue.
Not asking you to try this but what i did was as the noise was sending me mad i was driving along and the squeak/rattle was so bad i opened the door so that i could get lower down to the noise and try to pin point where it was coming from.I noticed when the door was open the noise went.I tried this a few times and the same happened.I checked around the seals and they looked as they should with no tears rips and no sign of damage.
On the off chance i sprayed them with WD40 and then took the car for a drive.I have only sprayed it once in 2 months and the car is perfect with regards the noise from the pillar.I have done all the seals on the car and i now feel deaf.
I asked the Dealers if the spray would damage the seals and they said no ,but we sell the seal rejuvenate for £24 a bottle.
But they could not find the squeaks.
Hope that works for you

mikecb1
30-11-2009, 02:09 PM
Pat123fish

Thanks for that. My own '56 plate Sport Tdi 170 had an irritating rattle from the B pillar area. What made it worse was that it came and went according to the weather. Worst in hot weather. Dealer stripped the doors and fitted insulation material (no detais I'm afraid), and this improved things. The dealer said that a rattle from the top of the B pillar is a known problem, but to fix it involved a major strip. Airbags/headlining etc. Altough this would be done under warranty, I wasn't prepared to risk creating new problems, so I'm living with an occasional minor noise. I'll certainly try lubricating the door seals.

Mike

pat123fish
30-11-2009, 04:47 PM
Thats the exact same year and model.I wonder if it is a common problem?
If so why are the dealers going to so much expense changing things that are obviously not broken.All for the price of some lubricant spray.It makes you wonder how much other stuff they put on or change thats not needed?When out of warranty.

I wonder if there is a way to revive the rubbers so they dont dry out?

The only thing to watch for is that you dont get your best clothes against the seals and the WD40 marks the clothing.I have tried to think of other things than the WD40 and even thought about a cloth with some Vaseline on?

martin1810
30-11-2009, 05:25 PM
"I wonder if there is a way to revive the rubbers so they dont dry out?"

If I laugh anymore more sides will split..........

mikecb1
30-11-2009, 05:37 PM
pat123fish

I had in mind trying out some Autoglym vinyl and rubber treatment on the rubbers. It's intended for this sort of application,and leaves a dry finish.

Mike

pat123fish
30-11-2009, 07:38 PM
Mikecb1
I think that we need to start mentioning the RUBBER SEALS and not just RUBBERS.
I too have started to see where MARTIN 1810 is coming from (no thats not another to add to Martins mind)
Suppose we are all big kids at heart and yep it did make me smile when he pointed it out.

Quatrelle
30-11-2009, 08:14 PM
I bought a dedicated rubber lubricant from a local car accessory shop. I saw some last week in a diy shop. The one I use is made by the 3-in-1 people, about €3 for an aerosol.

WD40 is not silicon-based, and will eventually dry and leave a sticky residue.

I keep vaseline for my chaps....

huckle
01-12-2009, 02:18 PM
You can use 'platen cleaner' to Rejuvenate the rubber seals. it's used by printer technicians for the rubber rollers inside printers, but works great on door seals too!

P Adams
01-12-2009, 03:03 PM
pat123fish

I had in mind trying out some Autoglym vinyl and rubber treatment on the rubbers. It's intended for this sort of application,and leaves a dry finish.

Mike

Hi

I've used the above on my wife's 1999 B5 and it works wonders. 10 years old and all her seals are great now!!! The car I mean:D

Paul

Stuart W
01-12-2009, 07:47 PM
If so why are the dealers going to so much expense changing things that are obviously not broken.All for the price of some lubricant spray.It makes you wonder how much other stuff they put on or change thats not needed?

Because they make a fortune out of work done under the manufacturer's warranty - that's why they're so keen to do it.

I don't think they're so keen to do work under the dealer warranty though, ie after the two-year manufacturer's one.

drmartin
03-12-2009, 09:14 AM
Pat123fish

Thanks for that. My own '56 plate Sport Tdi 170 had an irritating rattle from the B pillar area. What made it worse was that it came and went according to the weather. Worst in hot weather. Dealer stripped the doors and fitted insulation material (no detais I'm afraid), and this improved things. The dealer said that a rattle from the top of the B pillar is a known problem, but to fix it involved a major strip. Airbags/headlining etc. Altough this would be done under warranty, I wasn't prepared to risk creating new problems, so I'm living with an occasional minor noise. I'll certainly try lubricating the door seals.

Mike

My 06 estate was a pain in hot weather.

I reported it the dealer and they fixed the problem, mentioned something about the seat belt height adjustment mech needing to be adjusted, which to be fair did cure the problem for a while, then it returned.

So with all my DIY knowhow (very limited:o) I stripped out the upper B piller trim, then noticed all the gunk the dealer had applied to the seatbelt ajustment mech. After test drives, and many trials I noticed the following:


applying pressure to the B piller body joints, behind the airbag, I was able to eliminate the rattle
also by very lightly prying apart joint edges with half a wooden cloths peg (its wedge shaped) I was able to achieve the same elimination of the rattle

Following this success the peg was glued in place and I repeated the process for the near side B piller, this cured the problem unit the day went over 18 months later.

I must point out that the panels I worked are the structure panels, not the skin. The roof skin seams separate to the structure, and the structure is where the problem was, for me anyway..

Hope this is of help :beerchug:

Regards, M

Quatrelle
03-12-2009, 12:18 PM
Pat - The rattle from the B pillar got a lot of coverage a couple of years ago on one of the US forums, and on here. It hasn't been mentioned on here by anyone with a late car, so I'm guessing it's been sorted.

If you haven't already, have a look here http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeroforum?id=728

Some of the TSBs are useful.

Mine does it occasionally - like Mike's it seems to be weather dependent.