Bizarre Clutch Problem

[Cleberp]

Hi everybody,

The other day I tried to put my car [Skoda Octavia GLX 1.9 TDi] into gear but it simply chawed and when engaged cut the engine out. Then I horsed it out of gear and broke what I think is a gear linkage/cable thing. So of course no gears engage.

So I took the gearbox out and removed the pressure plate. The clutch was stuck to the pressure plate and had to be pried apart [this is not due to the car being out of use, I use it everyday]. I also noticed some scratches on the inside of the gearbox which I can't really understand.

So has anyone had any similar problems? Why would the clutch disc be stuck to the pressure plate? The clutch disc looks fairly OK but since I have it out I think I'll stick a new one in.

Also is it best to get rid of the dual mass flywheel and put in a single mass instead?

Hope you guys can help and I'll give feedback when I have it up and running again

[martin1810]

Failure to release the clutch properly is usually failed master cylinder, failed slave cylinder, bent clutch release lever or damaged pressure plate. Thanks to DMF this can also cause problems if it is breaking up. Clutch stuck to pressure plate or flywheel is not that unusual. You will save a lot of money if you fit a solid flywheel and clutch. Did you try every gear because it is possible the gearbox has gone and not the clutch.

[Cleberp]

Hi Martin,

Thanks for the info. I checked and I broke the gear selector [100euros new so going to scrapyard to find it]. The clutch and pressure plate don't look to bad, so I'm gonna put it back together and see what the gear selector does for it. It was tough to put into gear before I broke the selector so once I have it together I'll know if it is the gearbox or etc.

There were a few scratches on the inside of the gearbox as I said. Hopefully this is only from when I broke the selector.

If the clutch has to be replaced I'll put in the solid mass as you said. Had a look online and seems that it is way more reliable.

I'll keep you posted on my progress.

Thanks again,

M

[paul b]

I'll refer you to this thread. (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=79858&page=2&highlight=DMF+conversion)

The single mass conversion might be cheaper in the long run, but your car will vibrate more, particularly at lower rpm. Hopeless if you do a lot of town driving.

For me, a conversion from DMF to solid mass flywheel is something I wouldn't even consider. Proof is in the pudding of the above thread, where the poster states that after doing the conversion "when I drive in London its quite unpleasant".

If you're completely cost driven in terms of repairing your car then ignore me.

[martin1810]

Paul have you ever driven a car with this conversion. They don't vibrate, how can they, the flywheel is balanced. The DMF is designed to make people with poor clutch control seem better. A lot of engines currently fitted with a DMF were available in earlier years with a standard flywheel. In fact the solid conversions are based on parts used by the manufacturer on earlier models.

[Cleberp]

Thanks for all the replies everyone.

Got the selector. Had a look at the clutch again and in the light of day it looked like Morgan Freemans face i.e. pitted and looks like it could break-up [not like Morgan Freeman's face who is a legend . . . anyway where was I . . . oh] and gonna put a barely used [apparently] clutch disc in it [gonna try and spend as little as possible if I can for the moment].

Thanks for the info on the DMF Paul and Martin, I'll hold off on that decision until I have to.

Cheers

[paul b]

Paul have you ever driven a car with this conversion. They don't vibrate, how can they, the flywheel is balanced. The DMF is designed to make people with poor clutch control seem better. A lot of engines currently fitted with a DMF were available in earlier years with a standard flywheel. In fact the solid conversions are based on parts used by the manufacturer on earlier models.
I haven't, Martin. However you can't deny that the above poster and a number of others, have noticed a difference in vibration after the solid conversion. Poor clutch control it may well be as there are a number of bad drivers around these days, but such people have noticed the difference and it may not be everybody's cup of tea.

[vwcabriolet1971]

I,ve fairly recently had a DMF clutch replaced on my wifes 04 Polo ( 1.9 PD TDI- 82,000 miles) . One day the gearchange was normal and the next day, the only to drive the car was to start the engine with 2nd gear already selected . Normal gear selection with the engine running was impossible. Had to drive 7 miles in 2nd gear to my favourite mechanic .
When the clutch & flywheel were removed it was found that the clutch pressure plate was boken into 3 pieces and the flywheel had hairline cracks . I was amazed that one day the car would drive normally and the next day the clutch/DMF could be in this condition without any warning signs. The old solid flywheel type would normally give some indication of impending doom ,i.e. slipping, noise etc .
The DMF friction plate was worn down on side to the rivet heads. A complete OEM quality new clutch DMF kit was about £280 (Euro car parts) . The dealer price for just the flywheel was over £400 !
It occurs to me that that the DMF design will operate at a higher temperature than a solid flywheel type as there is not the large mass of the solid flywheel to absorb the heat. The smaller mass of the DMF type flywheel friction plate will obviously heat up more quickly . Also it's much easier to balance a solid flywheel than a DMF type. It doesn't help when driving schools teach pupils to ride the clutch so that they are ready for an immediate getaway. I always snick into neutral and take foot off the clutch when comming to a stop. Didn't need any clutch work on my 142,000 MK4 Golf.
If I had the choice on a new car I would choose the old style solid flywheel.