Temperature Sender

[Coupe16v]

Hi,

Can anyone tell me where I can find the temperature sender on a Coupe 2.0 16v?

My gauge has got an intermittent fault and looking through posts I see it would be sensible to try the sender, but I don't know where it is. Also, how hard is it to do?

Thanks,

Col.

[AUDIMAN]

Hi ,

I had the same problem on my Golf gti MK2 once I have an Audi coupe 8v at the mo if its anything like the golf its usually mounted on the side of the engine as the Audi Coupe uses the exact same engine as the golf gti mk 3 and usually looks like a brass fittment with a female type connector which is slipped over a circular mushroom shaped connection. Hope this is of some help.

scott.

[guyg]

I don't know how similar the plumbing is on the 16v, but I had an 8v with this problem so this might be relavent...

There was a small plastic manifold bolted to the top nearside of the block. This fed a couple of hoses in the cooling system, but there were two temperature senders that plugged into the top. Blue for the temperature guage and brown for the engine management.

I think the brown one had a three pin connector amd the blue one had two.

Each has a circlip holding them in place. As they are quite high up, I didn't loose much coolant whan I replaced the sender. Clip off, old unit out, then quickly insert the new one.

You might need to remove the cap from the header tank de-pressurise the cooling system if it's not cold.

Hope this helps...

Cheers

Guy

[Coupe16v]

Thanks for the replies. When I eventually get time to attempt it, I'll let you know how I get on.

:beerchug:

[Coupe16v]

Hi people,

I finally got round to changing the temperature sender today (which incidentally cost me £100!!!) only to find it HASN'T fixed my gauge :aargh4:

When undoing the connector to the sender, it looks like someone has really well and truly bu**ered it! Some of the plastic casing has been broken off showing the wires. Could this be the problem? Or does the car in fact have 2 senders and if so, where the hell is the other one?

Please, please can someone help me as this really is beginning to get to me now :1zhelp: I have an ACE engine if this helps anyone.

Thanks in advance

[scotty33]

The temp sender for the gauge is mounted on the underside of the water pipe by the inlet manifold (between 2 of the inlet runners).
It is called a 'multi function temp sender', it runs the gauge, gives an over temp alarm for the autocheck system and I forget the third one! Hence the price...
Is all ok with the fuel gauge, any fluctuation of the reading?

[Coupe16v]

The fuel gauge works fine, but why would that stop the temp gauge from working?

[Coupe16v]

Please can anyone else shed any light on this problem, as it's driving me nuts!!! :zx11:

[scotty33]

There is a voltage stabiliser on the back of the circuit board for the instrument cluster, if it's faulty it can affect the temp gauge, but usually has an effect on the fuel gauge too.
It might be worth removing the instrument cluster,check the connecting plugs and check the circuit board for 'dry joints', re-solder any you find?

[Coupe16v]

Thanks for the reply :beerchug: I will have a look, I have a couple of bulbs out anyway. I hope it's not too difficult to get the steering wheel off... I presume I will need a puller? I'm so glad I haven't got an airbag :-)

[AUDIMAN]

Hi there coupe16v ,

You shouldnt have any probs getting the steering wheel off just take the cetre cap off and use a socket set and extension to remove the central nut and thats it just pull off simple as that !

Im still having problems with my fuel gauge i may check for dry joints on the circuit bard like someone has already suggested as this also is driving me nuts too ! Anyway good luck .

Scott

[Coupe16v]

Is all ok with the fuel gauge, any fluctuation of the reading?

Scotty, I think you've jinxed me! My fuel gauge has been doing very strange things today, so now I will definately be having a look at the circuit board. Still unsure about the sender though. Now that I have changed it, it hasn't worked once. At least before it worked sometimes :aargh4:

[Coupe16v]

Hi there coupe16v ,

You shouldnt have any probs getting the steering wheel off just take the cetre cap off and use a socket set and extension to remove the central nut and thats it just pull off simple as that !

Im still having problems with my fuel gauge i may check for dry joints on the circuit bard like someone has already suggested as this also is driving me nuts too ! Anyway good luck .

Scott

Thanks for the help Scott, good luck with yours too. May we both have perfectly working temp/fuel gauges in the not too distant future :-)

[cleggn]

Depending on which steering wheel you've got, you can actually get the instrument binnacle out without removing the steering wheel - its a little fiddly but I did it the other week to replace some instrument bulbs. I have the three spoke sports style steering wheel.

Careful not to scratch anything.

Regards

cleggn

[AUDIMAN]

Thanks for the help Scott, good luck with yours too. May we both have perfectly working temp/fuel gauges in the not too distant future :-)


Hi oops oh dear , ive not really cured mine yet at the mo been doing so manyother things on it which now have come to a stop for the mo as most things now are up together just the roof to respray keep me updated !

scott .

[Coupe16v]

I finally got round to checking the circuit board and found that there were 2 very tiny holes, 1 to each of the 2 silver holes in the board - see pic marked with badly drawn arrows :Blush2: These appeared to be the only joints that were dry. I soldered them and both gauges now working perfectly :arms:

Tbh, I really didn't think I could do it, so I'm a very happy lady!

Many thanks for everyones help :beerchug: much appreciated.

http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x146/Coupe16v_2007/circuit1.jpg

[AUDIMAN]

Hi coupe16v ,

Thanks for the email iw ill endeavour to have a look at the joints on the circuit board is it easy to remove the circuit board ? let me know with some instructions as when i took my instrument panel out it seemed difficult to remove the pcb .

cheers

scott

[Coupe16v]

Here goes with the instructions:

1. Remove centre cap from steering wheel. If you have a 3 spoke steering wheel, just turn the cap (can't remember which way) it will then just lift off.

2. You will need a 24mm socket with an extension bar to remove the steering wheel, don't lose the washer!

3. Undo the 3 screws that hold on the steering column cowling/cover and remove the top part.

4. With the cowling removed, you will now see the 2 screws that hold in the clocks. Remove these and carefully remove the clocks. You will need to undo 3 connectors from the back of the clocks. Now the clocks can be completely removed.

5. Once you've taken out the clocks, turn them over and you will see lots of gold coloured screws to the edge of the board/clocks. You will need to undo and remove all of these screws.

6. There are 2 silver coloured screws with washers that you will also need to be removed.

7. Then in the middle of the clocks you will see a fairly large beige coloured bit of plastic that is held in by 3 dark grey/black screws, these will also need to be removed. There is also a black coloured bulb holder that you will need to turn as if to take it out, otherwise you won't be able to seperate this from the clocks.

8. Once you have taken the beige plastic bit off, you will be able to get to another gold coloured screw that must also be removed.

9. You should also be able to see 2 tiny silver nuts (5.5mm) that also need to be unscrewed and removed. Once you have undone the nuts, carefully remove the plastic bit (there is also a long bit of plastic that will come out with it), you will then see the last gold coloured screw to undo. (Don't forget to put that screw in before doing up the nuts when you put it back together!)

10. With all of the screws removed, you should now be able to carefully seperate the board from the clocks. You won't need any force, maybe a small precision screw driver to get started (I just used my nails :-)) Then it's ready for you to check for dry joints.

I don't think I've forgotten anything, but give me a shout if you need any more help....and remember.....if I can do it.....ANYONE can do it!!!

Good luck,

Collette.

[scotty33]

Well done! I didn't realise it was so involved.

[AUDIMAN]

hi well thankyou for that detailed instructions coupe 16v I will endevour to have a goa at that many thanks your a gem !

scott :- ))

[Coupe16v]

No probs, just shout if you have any questions when you do yours.

Col.

[hipstick]

Hi all

Thanks to Coupe 16V and other contributors in the thread - just done this job on my 2.8 Cab having had no temp gauge and erratic fuel readings.

Only time will tell, but I seem to have stable fuel readings now, and the temp gauge is reading for the first time since I bought it a couple of months ago (and there I was just about to change my temp sender). Rad fans cut in at an indicated 80-90deg when stood idling - is that a little low or about normal?

Anyway, I picked up a couple of tips when doing the job.

1. I didn't need to remove the steering wheel (3 spoke S line) to get my panel out.

2. The three big multiway connectors on the back of the clocks have a form of u clip over the back of them. You need to prise the clip straight out from the connector using a small flat blade driver, then the connectors practically fall out.

3. If you have AutoCheck, you need to remove 4 black screws to remove this (it's a big black and white plastic block covering around half the back of the clocks). Once the screws are out, it doesn't really feel as if the AutoCheck block is fully released, but it's just some tight connector pins holding it. Have faith and pull it gently but firmly straight out of the panel and away it comes. Once the AutoCheck is off, follow the original instructions.

4. No need to remove all the dash lights to remove the PCB (just to save remembering what goes where).

When I got my PCB out I found a dry (cracked) solder joint to one of the regulator leg connections, but these contacts have two soldered joints per leg, so wasn't part of my problem - worth fixing though. The regulator's legs were also fairly badly oxidised (looked like they had a fine white powder coating) so I took it out cleaned them, and refitted.

The two big holes that the fuel / temp gauge connector screws go through (as indicated on Coupe 16V's photo) have metal bushes soldered into them, which the screws clamp on to. On my panel, the main problem was that three of these four bushes had cracked solder joints.

The tiny holes next to these metal bush connectors are actually a red herring, as they have no function. They look like "via's" (connections from one side of a PCB to the other), but as it's a single sided PCB, they can't be. I've also looked under a microscope to confirm.

Chances are, if you soldered the tiny hole, you'd also solder the bush, as they're really close together, but what you really need to concentrate on is soldering the metal bush back onto the PCB nice and solid.

Cheers
Gary

[tommivercetti]

Guys some of you have mentioned how to get the instrument panel out.... Im having the same problem with the fuel gauge etc.... I have a 1998 model cabriolet, just wondered if I will need to take my steering wheel off?!

Many Thanks, T:confused:

[scotty33]

Cars with a non airbag steering wheel, the steering wheel does not need to be removed. I suggest you try it? If you do need to take the wheel off, disconnect the battery for a while before handling the airbag.

[hipstick]

I can only re-state that I didn't need to remove my 3 Spoke S-Line (airbag) wheel to get the instrument panel out.

As the last poster said - try it and see.

Gary