Octavia 1.9tdi loss of power/no boost

[oakley]

Hi all i have just joined this site, i need some assistance please:1zhelp:.
I have an Octavia 1.9tdi 110 (asv) 51 plate which lost power as i was driving down the motorway over a month ago,since then it has been in the garage.(turbo used to cut out 18months ago/into limp/ reset on key fault disappeared and car ok til a month ago?)
So far:
1. Maf sensor checked/ removed/swapped with same part no from working vehicle no change
2.Intercooler checked boost sensor replaced
3.Coolant temp sensor replaced
4.Boost control valve/solenoid on bulkhead replaced
5.Egr valve removed/ cleaned/replaced
6.Vacuum pipes checked/clear no holes splits
7.Vacuum sphere replaced
8.The turbo has been rebuilt and refitted(new oil feed pipe fitted)
9.Removed front pipe to eliminate blocked catalyst
Garage have now returned the car to me saying unable to fix,£600 bill:( now saying it may be ecu fault and to take to main dealer. Any help would be greatly apprieciated

[towcestervag]

what codes have you got?
surely the garage must be able to mend it?

[oakley]

Hi all i have just joined this site, i need some assistance please:1zhelp:.
I have an Octavia 1.9tdi 110 (asv) 51 plate which lost power as i was driving down the motorway over a month ago,since then it has been in the garage.(turbo used to cut out 18months ago/into limp/ reset on key fault disappeared and car ok til a month ago?)
So far:
1. Maf sensor checked/ removed/swapped with same part no from working vehicle no change
2.Intercooler checked boost sensor replaced
3.Coolant temp sensor replaced
4.Boost control valve/solenoid on bulkhead replaced
5.Egr valve removed/ cleaned/replaced
6.Vacuum pipes checked/clear no holes splits
7.Vacuum sphere replaced
8.The turbo has been rebuilt and refitted(new oil feed pipe fitted)
9.Removed front pipe to eliminate blocked catalyst
Garage have now returned the car to me saying unable to fix,£600 bill:( now saying it may be ecu fault and to take to main dealer. Any help would be greatly apprieciated
Hi thanks for reply,didnt tell me codes, but did say it was showing boost pressure out of range? And no said they couldnt do any more,dont know what to do now for the best?

[towcestervag]

i would look for a specialist in your area who knows what he is doing!
if you could get the codes i may be able to help
look in vag com section for code read near you and pm me the fault codes and car details ie eng/type nos and year

[dubsurf]

sounds same as what mines doing, turbo veins stuck ,:mad:a nice job of now removing turbo strip down and clean up to get the veins moving again

[zedochok]

Had same problem on mine 1.9tdi AHF 110hp.
Tried all like you did, and last one was solution. Timing belt!
Something happened with timing, when we replaced tensioners, rollers and belt engine got his power back. If you can dismantle it and check timing (dont have to replace parts immediatelly).
If it is little un-alligned engine runs normally but has no power.

Hope it helps.

[alleywalley15]

hi it could be the air mass meter ,i changed this and it cleared a week later after a long run

[Crasher]

Code 17965, sticky turbo vanes.

[oldbeaver]

My humble advice is to check yr engine using VCDS, systematically, one system at a time, and you should get an error code to address you to solve the problem.

Did that loss of power happen suddenly or was it gradual? This should give some clues.

I got once a sudden loss of power and was a rubber pipe of EGR gas recirculation that was loose. Once back into place, and all come back to normal.

How old is yr Octavia? I ask this because sometimes aluminium parts exposed to hot water get oxides deposits and such.

There are several tests to check health of yr car posted by one member that you may perform to find out. Search in this site.

Good luck,

Old Beaver

[regis motor's]

I have an Octavia 1.9tdi (BKC) 07 plate came to our work shop as non starter,

when you try to start car it shuts off after 5 seconds and has no responce to acclerator but will run on easy start when it gets warm it will start on the key and rev up with acclerator but cuts off some times even when warm.
its a very starnge problem we have tried every thing.
we found the the wrong turbo fitted so replaced it with a new one from skoda also have done all the below.

1. Maf sensor (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=maf+sensor) checked/ removed/swapped with same part no from working vehicle no change
2.Intercooler checked boost sensor replaced
3.Coolant temp sensor replaced
4.Boost control valve/solenoid on bulkhead replaced
5.Egr valve removed/ cleaned/replaced
6.Vacuum pipes checked/clear no holes splits
7.Vacuum sphere replaced
8.The turbo has been rebuilt and refitted(new oil feed pipe fitted)
9.Removed front pipe to eliminate blocked catalyst
10. ecu was sent off for testing.
11. replaced all fuel pumps (http://www.shopzilla.co.uk/rd2?t=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.diytools.co.uk%2Fsealey-vse952-vacuum-fuel-pump-pressure-test-gauge-set.html%3Futm_source%3DAffiliate-Feed%26utm_medium%3DShopzilla%26utm_campaign%3DSho pzilla&mid=82371&catId=13152&atom=11432&prodId=&oid=4005286311&pos=1&bId=18&bidType=0&bAmt=15834372142709c7&cobrand=2&rf=af1&af_assettype_id=10&af_creative_id=6&af_id=11444).
12.checked timing
13.torked up injectors
14.checked injector wiring loom to ecu.

Any help would be greatly apprieciated

[Crasher]

Crankshaft speed sensor is a possibility but they are a total PITA to change as you have to remove the oil filter bracket from the block

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/2L16vPDTDIrearcrankspeedsensor.jpg

and if you round out the hex head of the screw you have to take the box out so you can cut into the sensor and get grips on the bolt.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/BKDG28location.jpg

The torque is only 5Nm but it does not feel like it when you eventually do release the screw. Damage the plastic housing the sensor sits in and it is sump of and a new very expensive crank oil seal plus you need a very expensive alignment jig.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/ToolT10134.jpg

[regis motor's]

i have already changed it yesterday i pluged vag com in to it and it said throttel body flap was stuck open so i changed it fault code did clear but done the same thing again

[regis motor's]

im thinking to replace cam and lifters today and replace all four injectors that i have from a RUNNING ENGINE

[oldbeaver]

Oakley,

As a mechanic guru said,

1.- Don´t panic.
2.- First thing to do are simple things, not to spend money in expensive spare parts, not doing what you are doing.
3.- Do not assume. Do not assume they know what they are doing. For what you said, they don´t.
4.- Think before doing anything.
5.- Be systematic, make one remedy at a time.

I would add what other guy of this Forum said: engage a VAGCOM scanner, and check the error codes. This will give you the fail 99.9% sure.

Once you know the fail, find what is causing it. Then, solve it in the best and cheaper way possible.

Possible simple causes:

1) EGR recirculation system is obstructed. This may happen. You need to take out recirculation hose and check it visualy. This includes the hose and the EGR valve too.
2) EGR recirculation hose is not locked in place. This makes the computer to function in "limp" mode, with no boost *
3) Exhaust pipe is partially obstructed. No high flow, no boost. Check it, wash it with reverse pressure water.

*: this happen to my own Octavia 1.9 TDI. Easy to solve. There is a rubber seal inside the metal end of the hose that must be placed right. There is a lock that you must here "click" when it fits in place.

4) If scanner said throttle is full open, pay attention to it. Why can it be full open? Is it again full open? Whay is causing this? My opinion is you should investigate this first. Anyway, if throttle is full open, engine should full accelerate and get full rpm. If it is not doing so, then it is probably in limp mode. The computer turns the engine into limp mode, inhibiting any boost, for protection reasons.

So, you may have a basic fault that is detected by the computer, and it turns yr engine into limp mode to avoid further damages. In this mode you will have no boost, no matter how many spare parts you change, until you solve original problem.

Search in Internet Forums what are possible causes that makes the computer to enter into LIMP mode. This may help. Study before doing any futher expenses.

Good luck,

Oldbeaver

[regis motor's]

Thanks for info. Iv plugged in a vagcom only fault codes where air mass so replaced it iv checked Egr and replaced it with a new one and all pipes also checked car. It's really strange car will stay running on brake cleaner until engine is hot then can idle and rev with accelerator. If you start car cold it just turns off after five seconds and no response from accelerator until hot.

[regis motor's]

In the past iv had vw t5s with 1.9tdi engines cut while driving and no faults and have fixed them by replacing injectors sometimes no faults come up in ecu only thing left to do I think on this Skoda is to replace injectors and cam and lifters iv got a good secondhand set from a engine that had Conrad damage if it works then will replace with brand new once just to keep customers bill down.

[oldbeaver]

In the past iv had vw t5s with 1.9tdi engines cut while driving and no faults and have fixed them by replacing injectors sometimes no faults come up in ecu only thing left to do I think on this Skoda is to replace injectors and cam and lifters iv got a good secondhand set from a engine that had Conrad damage if it works then will replace with brand new once just to keep customers bill down.

Yr diagnostic makes sense to me. If all injectors are obstructed, computer accelerates at full to get some extra fuel.

Then first, check fuel filter. The simple first. Check that fuel is coming into fuel pump.

Injectors may be bad, or may need an ultrasonic cleaning only.

VagCom says clearly how much fuel is consuming the car in relanti (800 rpm) and it even says how much fuel is coming on each injector. Then you can check that before open things. You should, I would say.

Mechanics is not only a matter of changing parts. You should use yr brain before that, and you should use VagCom in this case.

OldBeaver

[oldbeaver]

If you give me yr email address, I can send you several pieces of information about VCDS (VAGCOM) and the info it can give to you, so you can take advantage of it.

OldBeaver

[regis motor's]

That would be excellent my email is <removed to protect user from the evil spammers>

[regis motor's]

Thanks I found the problem and all fixed cam was to tight and injector bolts where stretched lucky they did not snap thanks for your help.

[Crasher]

Really! you know I reckon no one on this site has ever come up with that suggestion before...Perhaps they should also try cleaning out their plenum drains.

[rahulbabbar]

Really! you know I reckon no one on this site has ever come up with that suggestion before...Perhaps they should also try cleaning out their plenum drains.


hi! my car skoda octavia 2 is going through very similar problems, i have changed the cam and rockers, replaced the trubo with a second hand working one from another vehicle, but i still feel the car make a lot of noise, the automatic gear changes from 1st to 2nd but get stuck on the 3rd i have to release the throtle for it to change at around 3,000 rpm,
on the manual mode the shifting is good in all the gears

please help me Im unable to use this car from past 3 months, and cant afford the skoda dealership repairs

regards
rahul

[Crasher]

Do you have access to fault code reading equipment?

[nikonite]

If it is sticky vanes have you tried the Mr Muscle Kitchen Cleaner fix?

[micheal balbrig]

All recent information suggests that Mr Muscle costs more long term as it damages seals bearings etc., trouble follows.

[Alan G H]

All recent information suggests that Mr Muscle costs more long term as it damages seals bearings etc., trouble follows.

Well, I did a Mr Muscle clean on my 1.9 TDI, and did another 60,000 miles over 5 years with no further problems.

[micheal balbrig]

Thats a good story,I was lucky never to have yet suffered from the annoying problem,but personally I would avoid any of these products that may damage seals resulting in bearing damage and potential cost, but the best of luck to all who do use MR Muscle and have good results.

[Crasher]

All recent information suggests that Mr Muscle costs more long term as it damages seals bearings etc., trouble follows.

I certainly does, it is something I strongly advise against as the exhaust system clean up after an exhaust side oil seal failure is a horrid job.