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desh
28-06-2009, 09:55 PM
I've got an irritating klonking from what I think is the nearside.
It sounds terminal over cobbles but I've had both wheels off and can't see anything loose.
Also ,I've recently replaced most of the arms on both sides.
Could it be the CV joints? Do they klonk when worn?
Is replacement difficult?
thanks
Des

towcestervag
28-06-2009, 11:35 PM
which arms have you replaced

caledonianewan
29-06-2009, 02:02 PM
a cv joint will make a clicking noise when your turning...

thorpyuk
29-06-2009, 03:48 PM
Hiya,

Have the springs checked... i had a clonking noise from the drivers side & it turned out to be both springs were broken!

frankc
29-06-2009, 08:15 PM
Have a look and see if the break pads are loose in the caliper too - my caliper guide pins were ceased on the N/S and one of the pads was rattling like a bag of spanners, especially on cobbles & bumps. Plus its a cheap one to fix! :-)

desh
30-06-2009, 02:35 PM
I repalced all the top ones, the two C shaped ones at the bottom and one of the long ones (like a flat bar with a built in bush. The rest look fine which is why I'm puzzled. Nothing else looks loose. I suspected the track rod ends, but they seem solid enough. I checked all the springs as (some time ago) I had a klonk from the back and it was a broken spring.
I'll check the brake thing...thanks...Hmmmm :confused:

WAYNALDO
30-06-2009, 02:49 PM
I had similar problem, turned out to be anti roll bar bushes.:approve:

towcestervag
30-06-2009, 04:39 PM
check the other straight arm with bush in it
i check these with a big bar and a large set of grips
and as above check the anti roll bar bushes

spartacus 68
01-07-2009, 10:21 PM
I had the same thing. Turned out to be the upper control arm and tie-rod. Tie-rod is straight-forward to replace. Remember to measure distance to locking nut before removal. Ideally you'll want the tracking redone on completion.

eben
03-07-2009, 12:21 PM
My offside is also a bit noisy and I can feel something klonking there through the footwell so took the wheel off for some inspection and found the following:

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/5297/image016f.th.jpg (http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image016f.jpg)
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/341/image019crv.th.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image019crv.jpg)
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/6583/image018u.th.jpg (http://img525.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image018u.jpg)

In the first pic the bush circled was loose from the "ring" and could be moved using a screwdriver so there was some metal on metal contact as it moved.
Can I ask from DIY experience... how hard are the parts circled to disassemble and replace?

towcestervag
03-07-2009, 07:35 PM
if the top arm is the rear one you can get the bolt out and change it ok but the pinch bolt for the top suspension arms in the top of the strut can be tight and can be bent if they have been overtightened
the anti roll bar c links are easy

spartacus 68
03-07-2009, 11:35 PM
My offside is also a bit noisy and I can feel something klonking there through the footwell so took the wheel off for some inspection and found the following:

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/5297/image016f.th.jpg (http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image016f.jpg)
http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/341/image019crv.th.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image019crv.jpg)
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/6583/image018u.th.jpg (http://img525.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image018u.jpg)

In the first pic the bush circled was loose from the "ring" and could be moved using a screwdriver so there was some metal on metal contact as it moved.
Can I ask from DIY experience... how hard are the parts circled to disassemble and replace?

The first picture is the upper control arms. To replace, you need to remove the strut assembly. Relatively straight forward. You will need to compress the spring. Main problem is the pinch bolt on the upper control arm (lower balljoints). Invariably it will be seized. Although the nut will probably come off - getting the pinch bolt off was a pain in the a**e! Had to use an acetylene torch to shift mine.

Spray the bolt with Duck Oil release at least a couple of days before attempting the job and reapply if necessary.

With the strut out - I'd replace both upper control arms.
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel43.shtml

The lower anti-roll bar link bush is straight forward. You may to use a scissor jack to lift the strut slighty to allign it when refitting the new part.
This guide is also invaluable. http://audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74853
:approve:

eben
04-07-2009, 09:49 AM
Thanks for the posts guys... without a garage or the space I'm thinking I'll just buy good quality parts (Febi), and have a maccy fit it.

eben
24-07-2009, 09:34 AM
Happy days!
Yesterday afternoon after work, still in my work-clothes, I changed the upper control arm with just basic tools and without having to loosen the whole strut as most guides suggest. Mind you that pinch bolt did need a lot of WD40 and convincing to loosen up. I found loosening, tightening, lubing for about 15mins repeatedly got it loose in the end.
Now most of the noises are gone and what I thought was a bad gearbox/engine mounting, ended up being metal to metal contact at the bush on the strut side causing a vibration under acceleration.

Well worth the effort and now I'm almost ready for my 5000km road trip.
(Drop link I'll leave for later)

Thanks for all the advice.
:beerchug:

veedubpolo
10-08-2009, 08:02 PM
in all my experience most ball joints on audis are a basterd