VAG-COM log - please help

[sabikeuk]

Hi

I have done some measurements via VAGCOM and there is my log:

'115
Engine Speed Load Cmd Pressure Press @ Intercool

/min % mbar mbar
2160 32.3 1000 1010
2320 75.9 2060 1030
2680 85.7 2520 1150
3040 96.2 2470 1250
3560 109.8 2530 1390
4040 126.3 2510 1620
4680 160.9 2510 1940
5280 172.2 2490 2060
5880 163.2 2480 2050
6320 162.4 2290 2010
6760 116.5 1000 1760
5880 13.5 1000 1080
4200 12 1000 1040
3640 12 1000 1040
2680 13.5 1000 1030
2360 12.8 1000 1030

'003
Engine RPM Air Mass Flow Throttle Opening

/min g/s %
1960 30.2 85.1
2280 38.1 90.6
2640 44.3 96.5
3080 58.5 100.0
3480 75.3 100.0
3960 93.2 100.0
4520 130.8 99.6
5200 168.1 99.6
5800 183.2 99.6
6160 125.0 100.0
5080 12.9 9.0
3720 9.3 7.1
2400 6.2 5.1
1360 3.3 2.7
2480 9.0 7.5
2480 6.3 5.5
2440 6.4 5.5
2840 43.2 35.3
1880 4.3 3.9

'020
Cyl #1 Cyl #2 Cyl #3 Cyl #4

CF CF CF CF
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 5.3
0 3 3 5.3
0 2.3 3 4.5
3 2.3 2.3 6.8
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0


So my cmd pressure is 2060 @ 2320RPM and maximum is 2530 @3560 RPM - so it looks like my car is remapped. But my actual pressure is much lower that cmd pressure.

Anyway is my cmd pressure adequate to remapped car or is it too high?

[Crasher]

A PD what? Is your VAG-COM a registered copy?

[sabikeuk]

A PD what? Is your VAG-COM a registered copy?

Sorry but I don't know what you mean "A PD what?".

Yes it is registered.

[Crasher]

The engine is obviously a PD (Pumpe Düse) model from the blocks you are showing but what is the car, year and engine code? Are you getting any fault codes?

[sabikeuk]

The engine is obviously a PD (Pumpe Düse) model from the blocks you are showing but what is the car, year and engine code? Are you getting any fault codes?

Car is AUDI TT 2001 225 (BAM) and no fault codes.

What I have found is that cmd press is too high against the actual press - I don't know why and also I think cmd press shouldn't be so high on standard 225 TT.

Any idea?

[sabikeuk]

Car is AUDI TT 2001 225 (BAM) and no fault codes.

What I have found is that cmd press is too high against the actual press - I don't know why and also I think cmd press shouldn't be so high on standard 225 TT.

Any idea?

I just came back from my car. Had leak from the bottom of DV, tightened it and there is my new log:

003
Engine RPM Air Mass Flow Throttle Opening

/min g/s %
2120 34.44 87.8
2480 43.31 94.5
2920 56.69 99.2
3360 74.14 100
3920 102.28 100
4520 137.36 100
5120 166.25 100
5760 184.72 99.6
6360 191.39 100
6720 122.28 36.1
4880 10.36 8.2
3120 8.11 6.3
4000 8.89 6.7
3080 7.69 6.3
2760 6.64 5.5

'115
Engine Speed Load Cmd Pressure Press @ Intercool

/min % mbar mbar
1960 48.1 1130 1020
2200 86.5 2290 1110
2640 92.5 2410 1200
3080 103 2390 1290
3560 118 2440 1460
4120 139.8 2510 1710
4680 166.2 2430 1990
5320 169.2 2420 2090
6000 166.2 2340 1960
6520 157.1 2190 1930
6200 12 1010 1420
4280 12 1010 1060
2680 13.5 1010 1050
3720 12.8 1010 1040
2960 12.8 1010 1040

2000 30 87.5 1040
2320 28 87.5 1150
2800 27 87.5 1230
3240 26 87.5 1340
3760 26 87.5 1550
4280 26 87.5 1780
4920 27 87.5 2060
5560 28 87.5 2050
6160 30 87.5 2010
6680 32 87.5 1990
5520 32 0 1140
3760 33 0 1050
2120 34 0 1040
3160 35 0 1040
2880 35 0 1040

So what has changed? Now I have slightly lower cmd pressure but unfortunately my actual pressure is still much lower than requested. Any idea why?

By the way air mass flow is 191.39 at 6360 but very weak at low revs - is it ok?

[Crasher]

Possibly a failed N75 valve, do an output test on it and feel for it clicking and if it does, remove it and test that it actually does alter the air flow when clicking.

[sabikeuk]

Possibly a failed N75 valve, do an output test on it and feel for it clicking and if it does, remove it and test that it actually does alter the air flow when clicking.

How can I do output test? Sorry I am not a mechanic. But will appreciate your help anyway.

[sabikeuk]

Possibly a failed N75 valve, do an output test on it and feel for it clicking and if it does, remove it and test that it actually does alter the air flow when clicking.

Hi, I didn't hear any clicking from that valve, however I tested it in the idle revs - does it mean that N75 is faulty?
Thanks,
Dan

[sabikeuk]

Possibly a failed N75 valve, do an output test on it and feel for it clicking and if it does, remove it and test that it actually does alter the air flow when clicking.

I just found out how to do an output test, will try to do it tomorrow.

Thanks Crasher for your help so far.

Daniel

[sabikeuk]

I just came back from my car. Had leak from the bottom of DV, tightened it and there is my new log:

003
Engine RPM Air Mass Flow Throttle Opening

/min g/s %
2120 34.44 87.8
2480 43.31 94.5
2920 56.69 99.2
3360 74.14 100
3920 102.28 100
4520 137.36 100
5120 166.25 100
5760 184.72 99.6
6360 191.39 100
6720 122.28 36.1
4880 10.36 8.2
3120 8.11 6.3
4000 8.89 6.7
3080 7.69 6.3
2760 6.64 5.5

'115
Engine Speed Load Cmd Pressure Press @ Intercool

/min % mbar mbar
1960 48.1 1130 1020
2200 86.5 2290 1110
2640 92.5 2410 1200
3080 103 2390 1290
3560 118 2440 1460
4120 139.8 2510 1710
4680 166.2 2430 1990
5320 169.2 2420 2090
6000 166.2 2340 1960
6520 157.1 2190 1930
6200 12 1010 1420
4280 12 1010 1060
2680 13.5 1010 1050
3720 12.8 1010 1040
2960 12.8 1010 1040

This should be 122 (I think) - measuring of actual pressure and N75:

2000 30 87.5 1040
2320 28 87.5 1150
2800 27 87.5 1230
3240 26 87.5 1340
3760 26 87.5 1550
4280 26 87.5 1780
4920 27 87.5 2060
5560 28 87.5 2050
6160 30 87.5 2010
6680 32 87.5 1990
5520 32 0 1140
3760 33 0 1050
2120 34 0 1040
3160 35 0 1040
2880 35 0 1040

So what has changed? Now I have slightly lower cmd pressure but unfortunately my actual pressure is still much lower than requested. Any idea why?

By the way air mass flow is 191.39 at 6360 but very weak at low revs - is it ok?



This should be 122 (I think) - measuring of actual pressure and N75:

2000 30 87.5 1040
2320 28 87.5 1150
2800 27 87.5 1230
3240 26 87.5 1340
3760 26 87.5 1550
4280 26 87.5 1780
4920 27 87.5 2060
5560 28 87.5 2050
6160 30 87.5 2010
6680 32 87.5 1990
5520 32 0 1140
3760 33 0 1050
2120 34 0 1040
3160 35 0 1040
2880 35 0 1040

[sabikeuk]

Possibly a failed N75 valve, do an output test on it and feel for it clicking and if it does, remove it and test that it actually does alter the air flow when clicking.


Hi Crasher, I did an output test and valve was clicking I have removed it but I don't know how to test it:zx11:. It looks like that valve is original from new (8 years) and car has 100,000 miles. Even AMM is wasn't changed.
Do you think these two should do a problem with low boost in 2000-4000 rpm?

[Crasher]

If you don’t have a problem with spending the money a new genuine N75 and a genuine dealer supplied exchange AMM are a good idea anyway when they get to that age.

[sabikeuk]

If you don’t have a problem with spending the money a new genuine N75 and a genuine dealer supplied exchange AMM are a good idea anyway when they get to that age.

Well I would rather to sort my low boost without spending money, anyway I don't know what is wrong???

[onzarob]

Is this what you need http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=68377

may help with costs. BTW I also corrected the typo in the title for you

[sabikeuk]

Is this what you need http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=68377

may help with costs. BTW I also corrected the typo in the title for you

Thank you for that I realized it - it looks like antivirus software (AVG) :D but I couldn't change it.

I am going to have a look to that thread.

[onzarob]

Thank you for that I realized it - it looks like antivirus software (AVG) :D but I couldn't change it.

I am going to have a look to that thread.

Unfortunately only Moderators can rename threads, with the N75 check the part number. Crasher may be able to help with that ;)

[sabikeuk]

Unfortunately only Moderators can rename threads, with the N75 check the part number. Crasher may be able to help with that ;)

Part number should be 058 906 283 F - well it is, because I took it off today :(.
So do you also think that my problem is faulty N75?

[sabikeuk]

If you don’t have a problem with spending the money a new genuine N75 and a genuine dealer supplied exchange AMM are a good idea anyway when they get to that age.

Do you think if I will change these two I will sort my problem?

[onzarob]

Do you think if I will change these two I will sort my problem?

I would follow Crashers superior knowledge and experience on these matters, They are considered consumable items and if your going to keep the car for a while, it would be beneficial.

[sabikeuk]

I would follow Crashers superior knowledge and experience on these matters, They are considered consumable items and if your going to keep the car for a while, it would be beneficial.

Yes you are right, I would like to keep my car at least another 3 years - just bought it 3 months ago.
I was quite glad when Crasher replied to my thread because I knew that he could help me, already done a few times!

[Crasher]

Is this what you need http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=68377

may help with costs. BTW I also corrected the typo in the title for you

It is a petrol engine, I got the wrong idea as well.

[sabikeuk]

It is a petrol engine, I got the wrong idea as well.

Hi Crasher, I am sorry but I don't understand what you mean.... could you be more certain?
Thank you,
Dan

[Crasher]

The link you were given is for 1.9 TDI N75 valves.

[sabikeuk]

The link you were given is for 1.9 TDI N75 valves.

achh..I see...I knew that it was for TDi, I asked him if he have got my type.

Anyway Crasher do you think it is faulty N75?

[Crasher]

Possibly, they do fail even when clicking, caught me out on my own car. Fitted a new genuine on and that failed 11 months later.

[sabikeuk]

Possibly, they do fail even when clicking, caught me out on my own car. Fitted a new genuine on and that failed 11 months later.

upss...I believe you have OctaviaRS remapped, so you should have same part as me - 058 906 283 F? Is there any reliable version of that valve?

[Crasher]

No, that is what I am using. At least they have a two year warranty and I am sure it is going again…

[sabikeuk]

No, that is what I am using. At least they have a two year warranty and I am sure it is going again…

I have ordered it from Audi dealer today, should have it on Friday so hopefully I will try it and know on Friday afternoon. I didn't know that parts have 2 years warranty - good to know - thanks ;) I will keep my bill.
Thanks Crasher for your replies and help.

[Crasher]

The 2 year parts/labour warranty is why my Octavia VRS got a genuine exchange engine and turbo, two years peace of mind.

[sabikeuk]

The 2 year parts/labour warranty is why my Octavia VRS got a genuine exchange engine and turbo, two years peace of mind.

waaw, you have to push your VRS really hard;), what happended to engine?

[Crasher]

It bought it cheap with a rattled to death engine, that’s what happens when you don’t do an oil change for 36K miles!

[sabikeuk]

It bought it cheap with a rattled to death engine, that’s what happens when you don’t do an oil change for 36K miles!

Some people are crazy...36K miles is unbelievable!

I am sure your engine and turbo will survive much more than 2 years ;).

[Crasher]

Partly not his fault, he bought it from someone who was a little unscrupulous who must have zeroed the service indicator after doing something like 24K without an oil change and he then went and did another 12K in it. The service in 1K miles warning came on and he called us and booked it in but it died 500 miles later.

I change the oil every six months which is about 3K for me and I use the 2 year Longlife oil filter and Longlife 3 oil so it should last. After a run I always leave it idling for at least 1 minute so it can “cool and spool” as I put it, that is allowing the turbo to cool down and slow down, it helps prevent the formation of engine killing sludge.

[sabikeuk]

Partly not his fault, he bought it from someone who was a little unscrupulous who must have zeroed the service indicator after doing something like 24K without an oil change and he then went and did another 12K in it. The service in 1K miles warning came on and he called us and booked it in but it died 500 miles later.

I change the oil every six months which is about 3K for me and I use the 2 year Longlife oil filter and Longlife 3 oil so it should last. After a run I always leave it idling for at least 1 minute so it can “cool and spool” as I put it, that is allowing the turbo to cool down and slow down, it helps prevent the formation of engine killing sludge.


I do it same way like you with cooling of engine/turbo....anyway I hope my turbo isn't broken :o.
I use Motul 8000 ester base oil for my TT and will change it every 10-12 months...you know ..price:o.

When I bought my TT I changed lot os parts, even cambelt which supposed to be changed 20K miles before but I don't trust people if I don't know them

Anyway I have done some measuring's today again -
'032
Idle Value Part Throttle Value

% %
0.4 -4.7
0.4 -4.7
0.4 -3.1
0.4 -3.1
0.4 -3.1
0.4 -3.1
0.4 -3.1
0.4 -3.1
0.4 -3.1
0.4 -3.1
0.4 -4.7
0.4 -4.7
0.4 -4.7
0.4 -4.7
0.4 -4.7
0.4 -4.7
0.4 -4.7
0.4 -4.7
0.4 -4.7

Is it true that part throttle should be less than -5%, otherwise I have boost leak somewhere?

[Crasher]

If you are worried about a boost leak you need a leak down test, the problem is finding a garage with the equipment, even most VAG dealers haven’t got it. Ignore the red arrow.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/Golf4AGUthrottlebody.jpg

[sabikeuk]

I hope I haven't got the boost leak. Anyway just picked my N75 and I can't wait until I finish at work and going to change it but I just checked weather forecast and it is going to be heavy rain afternoon:(.

[sabikeuk]

I just changed N75 and unfortunately nothing happened-it is exactly same as it was:confused:....I just don't know what to do now....did my turbo die?

[Crasher]

Possibly, try a genuine exchange AMM first. Do us all a favour though, drop the quoting each time, it takes up a lot of space!

[sabikeuk]

Possibly, try a genuine exchange AMM first. Do us all a favour though, drop the quoting each time, it takes up a lot of space!

N75 cost £65, AMM is for £88,55 exchange.

[onzarob]

sabikeuk, you don't need to quote every post...especially the last one before your comment. ;)

I would suggest taking it to a Garage if you feel that it a blind way to fix. It can be infuriating finding faults, thats why so many member complain about dealers as the car obviously wrong, but the computer says that it is fine.

I say listen to Crasher and you can't go wrong, remember if you take it to a garage, you'd pay for the labour as well as the parts ;)

[a8 tech]

If you are worried about a boost leak you need a leak down test, the problem is finding a garage with the equipment, even most VAG dealers haven’t got it. Ignore the red arrow.

A8 STOP quoting the pic again!!!
i have one:D

[onzarob]

i have one:D

:p

[Crasher]

Yes, sounds correct and as a main dealers labour is more than that per hour it is a cheap elimination test.

[sabikeuk]

sabikeuk, you don't need to quote every post...especially the last one before your comment. ;)

I would suggest taking it to a Garage if you feel that it a blind way to fix. It can be infuriating finding faults, thats why so many member complain about dealers as the car obviously wrong, but the computer says that it is fine.

I say listen to Crasher and you can't go wrong, remember if you take it to a garage, you'd pay for the labour as well as the parts ;)

Do you mean I shouldn't use quote but new reply instead?
Or do you mean that I should delete quote and write message after?

[Crasher]

i have one:D

That makes two of us then, anyone else? :D

[sabikeuk]

Did an output test of a new N75, was clicking...

[Crasher]

You need to do a 3rd gear 3000 rpm full throttle boost pressure check using a boost pressure gauge from a "T" piece inserted in the manifold to fuel pressure regulator line. I don't trust the readings using VAG-COM sometimes, they seem a little delayed.

[sabikeuk]

You need to do a 3rd gear 3000 rpm full throttle boost pressure check using a boost pressure gauge from a "T" piece inserted in the manifold to fuel pressure regulator line. I don't trust the readings using VAG-COM sometimes, they seem a little delayed.


I haven't got pressure gauge and it seems too difficult for me to do it.
Anyway I went to audi yesterday and they exchabged my N75 for AMM...will get it on Thursday.

[sabikeuk]

Possibly, try a genuine exchange AMM first. Do us all a favour though, drop the quoting each time, it takes up a lot of space!

Just changed genuine AMM and car runs exactly same:zx11:. Out of ideas....

[onzarob]

Just changed genuine AMM and car runs exactly same:zx11:. Out of ideas....

Take it to a garage ;)