1.8T 120,000mile DIY Service

[½cwt]

Looking to do a 120,000 mile service on my recently purchased 2000 1.8T. I figure I'm going to need oil filter, air filter, plugs, fuel filter (where is this located). Other than using VW spec sinthetic oil, anything else that should be done/checked?
Also is it best costwise to use OE parts from dealer or from a factor?

[cazyp]

I'd use GSF personally. Any OE SPEC parts for servicing will be fine.
The other thing I'd do is a coolant flush and change.
Pollen filter.
And with this engine I'd buy some engine oil flush to get rid of the sludge.
Clean the intercooler.
Check all fluid levels.
Check brake pipes for leaks.
Grease door and boot seals. (rubber silicon type grease)
Clean grit etc off the suspension are bushes and check them + cv boots for splits.
Clean the climate cabin sensor.
Check plenum/unblock.

Have a cup of tea, re-check oil level then test drive.

[Sam]

When was the timing belt last done.

At 120k and 9 years old you should be on at least your second, preferably your third.

[ddave05]

Other than using VW spec sinthetic oil, anything else that should be done/checked?
Also is it best costwise to use OE parts from dealer or from a factor?

Don't forget to buy a sump plug for when you decide to change the oil. The threads can bugger up easily if you don't change it because they are made from aluminium.

[½cwt]

The last timing belt was fitted at 80k miles so should be good for another 20k??.

[½cwt]

Isn't the problem with sump plugs (Had to have a rethread & helicoil in wife Toledo Sport last year) the oil pan being ali rather than the plug which is steel??

[Sam]

The last timing belt was fitted at 80k miles so should be good for another 20k??.

Was the water pump done at the same time and how long ago was it changed.

There's still a split over the intervals, but I'd lean towards every 4 years (or 40-60k).

[ddave05]

Isn't the problem with sump plugs (Had to have a rethread & helicoil in wife Toledo Sport last year) the oil pan being ali rather than the plug which is steel??

Yea sorry thats what i meant in my post; the threads are soft on the sump itself as its made from aluminium, because they dont rust and are lighter than the steel 1's, but the threads damage easily so a new plug should be used every time.

[cazyp]

I just make sure the sump plug is clean, half a turn back then hand wind it in to make sure the thread is lined up. Never had a problem. Even if the worst came to the worst and it does cross thread you could tap the sump and use a larger sump plug.
Save where ever you can lol.

[½cwt]

AS I mentioned I got stung by a SEAT dealer on my wife's Toledo for a sump plug rethread. cost £90 plus VAT (We have a mobile mand that does it for us) when they could buy a recoil kit for about £40 and then charge £50 and get their money back in a week and save their customers a fortune as well as their workshop/ramp time. They weren't very receptive to that business plan and the suggestion of a freebee to me for the input.....

Anyway all noted and thanks for the warning. I'll go over the thread with a fine wire brush before putting the plug back. By the way is there a crushable washer or O ring on the plug that needs changing? In the past I've found some manufacturers include them in the box with an OE filter but I know VW don't put one in the box.

[½cwt]

In case anyone was interested all tasks have been completed on this service plus a brake fluid change and new wipers. Total cost of OE parts from VW was approx £135 excl the brake fluid and wipers. I got the Quantum oil from the VW dealer too as it seemed to be the cheapest oil to the correct VW standard, also covers PD diesels too. At only £25 it proves that OE can be more cost effective at times.
It has made a huge difference to the way the car goes which must mostly be down to the spark plugs. Probably changing them more often than the VW recommended interval.