Cambelt change in 1995 1.8 CL

[mike2909]

Hello, I have recently bought a 1995 Passat estate 1.8cl estate.
1 owner from new with a FSH up to 122.000. The car now has 130.000 mile but I can find no record in the service history of a cam belt change in the service schedule book.
the car was sold by Keith Garages in Ayelsebury and always serviced by them. The book is stamped every 10.000 miles but there is no mention anywhere of a cambelt change.
At what mileage should the belt have been or be changed.

Thank you for any help and advice.
Mike

[VWbigboost]

Hi Mike.
The cambelt should of been replaced at 60,000 then rechecked every 20,000 or replaced if signs of wear.
The cam belt is very easy to replace so i replace mine every 20, or 2 years.
Hope this helps

[mike2909]

Hi, Thanks for the reply. How easy are they to change and do you need any special tools? I have a friend who does my mechanical work but he has not done a Passat before. He asked if any special tools were needed. Is there a how to anywhere on the site?
Thanks
Mike

[mercedesjenz]

Hi there, I have the same engine as you and have just done my belt yesterday.

It is quite easy to do, the most difficult part i found to be the 4 Allen screws securing the two pulleys which sit over the crank pulley and need to be removed to take off the bottom belt cover.

I did it like this:
Take off the air filter housing and associated intake hoses. (screwdrivers required)
Unclip the top cam belt cover
Jack the car up on the offside (trolley jack) and secure with axle stand(s)
Take off the wheel (17mm socket or wheel brace)
Take off the inspection cover inside the wheel arch (small star drive)
Now for the tricky bit: I used a 19mm socket with a long extension on a torque wrench which went over the centre nut on the crank pulley. I wedged this on the front strut so the pulley couldn't move. I then used a normal ratchet with an extension and (i think) a 6mm allen key bit to crack the 4 allen keys securing the two pulleys (see above). Make sure you don't round them off inside as otherwise you'll have to drill them out with a 10mm drill bit and get new bolts. They are very tight.

Next is to align the timing marks: Pull the plug out of the inspection hole on the gear box. Not really necessary but it's just one more thing to make sure. Take off the distributor cap. Lign up the timing marks by turning the cam (18mm socket). This is easier if you remove the plugs (no compression)

There should be a mark on the top of the top cam beltcover back plate (white arrow) and an 0_T mark on the pulley. Line these up with the _ on the arrow.

There should be a white arrow mark on the bottom cover. This should line up exactly with the mark on the crank pulley at the same time. The crank does 2 rotations for the cam's 1 rotation.

There should be a mark on the distributor body. The rotor arm needs to sit slap bang pointing at it (if you have the original rotor arm it will have a mark: i would renew that and the dizzy cap if that is the case). Do this last thing only if the timing has been disturbed, as the dizzy will be set to 6 degrees BTDC. This is the basic safe setting and the ECU needs to be reprogrammed otherwise. The car will run, but not as well as it should as it is the basic setting!

Have a look at the gear box inspection hole. You should be able to see a mark on the fly wheel.

Now take off the bottom pulleys with the two auxiliary belts.

Take off the bottom cambelt cover (4mm Allen Key, i think; 13mm socket and 10mm socket)

Undo the belt tensioner (15mm socket) It should move anti clockwise and i would renew this.

Take off the old belt making sure the marks are still aligned.

Renew the belt and tensioner making sure not to disturb the crank, intermediate shaft (for the dizzy) or the cam. This will be very difficult so you may want to mark the position of the intermediate shaft on the back plate. Note: if the intermediate shaft has been disturbed and you are not sure where it went line the dot mark up with the edge of the crank pulley. This is the basic setting(see above in red).

Tension the new belt by moving the tensioner clockwise using angled circlip pliers and the 15mm socket. When tensioned you should be able to turn the belt by 90 degrees at it's longest distance between pulleys.

Now make sure all the timing marks still line up and then turn the cam through 2 full rotations and make sure they still line up.

Put it all back together.

Alternatively get a Haynes Manual. It's about the only thing the manual is good for these days.

Hope that's helped

[simoarne]

Hi, Thanks for the reply. How easy are they to change and do you need any special tools? I have a friend who does my mechanical work but he has not done a Passat before. He asked if any special tools were needed. Is there a how to anywhere on the site?
Thanks
Mike

Just a quick note: Get yourself an impact wrench for the allen bolts. Argos do a Cheap but good one and it will have them undone in a jif. I knackered my bolts and knuckles before learning this gem.