Loss of power/ misfiring 2.0FSI

[lanciamug]

My 05 2.0 FSI has an intermittent fault which is getting anoying! The car suddenly loses power and misfires whilst the dashboard shows the ESP warning light (which cannot be switched off using the ESP switch!). Once I can pull in safely, switching the ignition off and restarting restores normality and the car is perfect! (until the next time). This has only happened three times, but twice in the last week, and the last time was in the outside lane of the M1! Eeek! I know I should get the codes read and put money in mechanics pockets, but I hope someone has had this fault and can aim me at a cure. All guidance appreciated.

[lanciamug]

No on had a similar problem?

[VAGMAN54]

did you find a cure ? just got a 1.4 fsi in today with the same fault

[lanciamug]

No cure, no. The car hasn't had this fault occur for over 2 weeks. I was getting worried when it happened twice in two days but now I'm chilled and hoping to wait until service time to have the fault codes read. I would still be very interested to hear from someone with the same problemor perhaps Crasher or A8 could help?

[Benzev]

My 05 2.0 FSI has an intermittent fault which is getting anoying! The car suddenly loses power and misfires whilst the dashboard shows the ESP warning light (which cannot be switched off using the ESP switch!). Once I can pull in safely, switching the ignition off and restarting restores normality and the car is perfect! (until the next time). This has only happened three times, but twice in the last week, and the last time was in the outside lane of the M1! Eeek! I know I should get the codes read and put money in mechanics pockets, but I hope someone has had this fault and can aim me at a cure. All guidance appreciated.
Have you had your car into a dealer in the last 3 years? I say this because 3 years ago an engine software update came out to stop the changeover flaps from melting caused by combustion gases escaping back up the intake due to valve overlap, this software update addressed this problem! However if it has not had this update it is likely that those flaps have melted and the changeover flap motor no longer has its full travel due to melted plastic flaps jamming the assembly! These would need to be replaced and the software update carried out as a fix! The ECM does log faults relating to this so I recommend putting some of your money into mechanics pockets to confirm it before more damage is done! It more likely will end up in the bosses pocket though as in my case because the trade doesn't pay too well! I don't even know why I'm still doing it! I should be programming computers earning 10 times the amount!!!

[lanciamug]

Have you had your car into a dealer in the last 3 years? I say this because 3 years ago an engine software update came out to stop the changeover flaps from melting caused by combustion gases escaping back up the intake due to valve overlap, this software update addressed this problem! However if it has not had this update it is likely that those flaps have melted and the changeover flap motor no longer has its full travel due to melted plastic flaps jamming the assembly! These would need to be replaced and the software update carried out as a fix! The ECM does log faults relating to this so I recommend putting some of your money into mechanics pockets to confirm it before more damage is done! It more likely will end up in the bosses pocket though as in my case because the trade doesn't pay too well! I don't even know why I'm still doing it! I should be programming computers earning 10 times the amount!!!
Thanks Benzev, the car did have a software upgrade two years ago(the overrun fuel cutoff stopped happening). These 'changeover flaps', I assume they are in the inlet manifold to optimise tract length to engine speed. Or are they something else entirely?

[VAGMAN54]

common problem is injectors or so the dealers tell me,they have fitted 4 this week to seperate cars of course,the change overflaps are for the stratified fuel mode at tickover and part load then change over completely for a charged mode for acceleration from what i understand.....ours was an injector fault..

[lanciamug]

Cheers VAGMAN.

[Crasher]

In tank pump, also very common.

[lanciamug]

Hi Crasher, I was hoping you would see this thread. I was aware of the common failure of the fuel pump but would this give the ESP lights? Also would the pump be 'cured' by switching off and on?

[Crasher]

Yes and yes. Poor fuel supply gives an unstable power delivery and this is flagged as an ESP light and a code in the ABS/ESP memory to check engine fault memory.

[lanciamug]

Thanks again Crasher.

[VAGMAN54]

if you have access to vcds you can check the fuel pressure or what the ecu is seeing this will give you an idea of what the pump is doing..fuel pressure should be between 50 bar at tickover and very close to 100bar at high revs,if the pump is playing up switching off and on could reset it the same as it could for many other things,vcds and an oscilloscope is the best tools in my box for fault finding as cars are getting more complex and so is fault finding

[coyney79]

My 05 2.0 FSI has an intermittent fault which is getting anoying! The car suddenly loses power and misfires whilst the dashboard shows the ESP warning light (which cannot be switched off using the ESP switch!). Once I can pull in safely, switching the ignition off and restarting restores normality and the car is perfect! (until the next time). This has only happened three times, but twice in the last week, and the last time was in the outside lane of the M1! Eeek! I know I should get the codes read and put money in mechanics pockets, but I hope someone has had this fault and can aim me at a cure. All guidance appreciated.

I have a GOLF GT 2.0 FSI 55 plate and have just experienced a very similar problem with the ESP light coming on followed by a sudden loss of power, coincidently this happened on the A406 as I was preparing to enter the M1.

I brought this car from a dealership less than 3 months ago and will be taking it back to them very shortly. The car had 32000 miles when I brought it and I have only done 2000 since then. Having seen this post about ESP fault/ power loss before I brought the car, I was keen to take out an extra 2 years warranty which cost £477, I didn’t envisaged having any problems this soon.


I don’t know if this is relevant but it happened very soon after the AirCon was turned on. I don’t normally use the AirCon but obviously with the resent hot weather I have been running it without incident (until this evening):Blush2:. I had also been using it earlier in the day without any problems.

It was very worrying when the EPS light came on and wouldn’t go out (I also tried pressing the button by the gearstick) as I was in heavy traffic:zx11:, but eventually I was able to pull off the road.

When I put the car in neutral, the engine and car trembled continually:(. I switched off the engine, held my breath, and then restarted… And everything seemed fine, power was restored, ESP light disappeared (although I didn’t turn on the AirCon this time) which meant I was able to get home on the M1.

I hope the VW dealership diagnosis and fix the problem without charge or delay as I really love this car, it’s my first VW and I would hate not to be able to trust it.

[lanciamug]

Coyney79
I just replied to your post in another thread! My car hasn't been in to the dealers yet as the fault ALWAYS clears on switch off! It has happened many times since my original post and seems to be associated with decelerating for long periods such as coming off slip roads or approaching roundabouts. When I go back on the gas dashboard lights up and no power, as you describe. I'm very interested in what you find out so please post. By the way, my car has done only 22,000 miles so I will be unhappy if it is an expensive repair!

[coyney79]

Hello Lanciamug,

I dropped the car into the dealership yesterday for tests and have just returned home with it now. I actually had WV assistance send out a RAC bod on sunday who was clueless and couldn't deduce anything after plugging his laptop into my car. So I called up the dealership again.

They ran their checks to confirm that the warning light had come on (which means that they should be able to see when your light had come on in the past).

Their "guided fault finding" confirmed that the throttle body was dirty, which i believe lead to a build up of gases, causing the ESP light to come on. They then cleaned the Throttle body and "erased" the fault after testing the car.

Its cost £115 to run a diagnostic check, however i paid nothing as i haven't had the car for very long. It does sound like the exact same problem as yours.

Hope this is of some help to you.

Best of luck

[lanciamug]

Hmmm, I suspect the throttle body needed cleaning because of the poor combustion when faulty rather than causing the fault, time will tell! Keep me informed. Mine is going in on the 29/7. I'll let you know what happens.

[coyney79]

from what i was told on the phone, their tests produced a code which related to the throttle body being dirty, however, i wasn't given this code on the paper work i received.
This is what they told me caused the ESP light to come on.

only time will tell weather it was the cause of the problem or just a symptom...

i'll keep you informed...

[lanciamug]

Well, the car has been into the dealers for a service and fault find. They did blame the dirty throttle body. Apparently the throttle gets a message from the drive by wire throttle pedal, if it doesn't move the exact correct amount it throws up an error message which the ECU then reacts to by putting on the warning lights and cutting the power. My dealer read the codes FOC within the service labour charge and had a quick clean of the throttle. They have left me to see how it is before looking into this further (at extra charge). Since it is such an intermittant fault it could be some time before I'm sure it has been cured. Watch this space!!

[websentinel]

I've been having the exact same issue as mentioned above with my 2004 A4 FSI Sport saloon (70,000 on the clock).

The mechanics at the local garage found a "Fuel control - upper limit exceeded" code. I was hoping a service and the resetting of the codes would cure the issue but it has just reared its ugly head again whilst driving home along the M3.

I'm going to assume the above code would probably indicate an issue with the fuel pump but would appreciate any guidance/experience that anyone has had regarding this issue.

Also - it's the EPC light (Electronic Power Control) and not the ESP light (Electronic Stabilisation Program) that keeps coming on randomly.

Cheers, Steve

[brentos2004]

Im also having a similar issue with my 2.0 FSI but its occuring when under heavy braking. ESP and traction lights come on, then have to pull over and reset. Im getting the following two errors.

2 Faults Found:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17887 - Brake Boost Vacuum System: Mechanical Failure
P1479 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

Ive been advised to check the hose from brake servo to intake manifold which looks ok to me, as do the rest of the hoses so not sure now what to do. The throttle body was cleaned when the car was serviced a few months ago so this shouldnt be the problem. It looks like its going to be an expensive trip to the garage.

[Crasher]

That is usually the in tank fuel pump.

[websentinel]

Thanks Crasher is your response related to Brentos (above) or mine (previous page)?

Sorry for hijacking this thread.

Cheers, Steve.

[Crasher]

Brentos.

[brentos2004]

Hi Crasher,

What makes you think this could be the problem? And also do you know roughly what the cost would be to have the intank fuel pump replaced?

Thanks

[Crasher]

I have seen it before with those codes. I would need your cars reg number to help on time and price.

[brentos2004]

Ive PM'd you crasher, thanks

[m12oby]

I have had the same problem on my 04 2.0 FSI. First time and second time it was re set when i turned engine off and then re started. Third time it continued as a missfire then the engine management light came on (ESP light went off). took it to local Indi and it turned out to be 2 faulty coils. They were changed and touch wood, no problems since.

[steve-c]

Hi i know this is an old post but i have a 2-0fsi with poor sporadic running at 2000rpm would these change over flaps cause this kind of fault... there are no fault codes logged... any help / advise appreciated.

[robstokie]

Hi, last night my 2.0 FSI had exactly the same issue, did you finally get it resolved?

[steve-c]

Hi. i took my throttle body and intake manifold off and cleaned out.... the amount of carbon and gummy crap around the valves was a real eye opener,,, can only put it down too the EGR.. I cleaned all the crap off on each cylinder. run some injector cleaner through and now i also run it on the higher octain fuel... it is a different car performance and mpg... averages 35mpg around town and had it up to 40mpg on a run... the car has done 46000mls... I know there is modified software for the audi tt change over flaps but not for the touran... hope this help Steve..

[robstokie]

Thanks

[shefftyke]

Hi, I'm experiencing the same problem as the OP, and I wondered if anyone could help?

I've replaced the fuel filter and brake switch (not my idea!). Took it VW yesterday and they think it's because the gearbox is covered in excessive oil and it needs to be stripped down to investigate. The cluth smells also.

Checked the throttle body and it isn't particularly unclean, but the mechanic at the dealer I bought it from thinks he should change it. I've suggested the in-tank fuel pump and generally been laughed at for suggesting something so ridiculous.

Is there anything else that I can try?

[Crasher]

For a start, if a mechanic laughs at you, walk away and find someone else, you are the customer who is paying and they should treat you with respect no matter what you suggest and a dirty throttle body does not need replacing, they can be cleaned and reset, he sounds like a fitter to me rather than a mechanic. First of all we could do with some accurate details of your car such as year, engine code, mileage and anything else you consider pertinent. The in tank lift pump and/or the head pressure pump can cause issues on these engines but before ANY parts are fitted to the car, you need to get the car scanned for fault codes, these codes printed off for YOU to keep and then cleared. The car should then be driven again and then after the issue has re-occurred (even if this takes a few days), the codes read and printed out again BUT no work must be done in the engine bay in between the code reads with the ignition switched on or anything disconnected Then the two code reads can be compared and the codes from the second read trusted to not be anything to do with old faults or people working on the engine, what I call "Ghost codes", you want hard facts to guide the way your money is spent on parts and labour.

[shefftyke]

For a start, if a mechanic laughs at you, walk away and find someone else, you are the customer who is paying and they should treat you with respect no matter what you suggest and a dirty throttle body does not need replacing, they can be cleaned and reset, he sounds like a fitter to me rather than a mechanic. First of all we could do with some accurate details of your car such as year, engine code, mileage and anything else you consider pertinent. The in tank lift pump and/or the head pressure pump can cause issues on these engines but before ANY parts are fitted to the car, you need to get the car scanned for fault codes, these codes printed off for YOU to keep and then cleared. The car should then be driven again and then after the issue has re-occurred (even if this takes a few days), the codes read and printed out again BUT no work must be done in the engine bay in between the code reads with the ignition switched on or anything disconnected Then the two code reads can be compared and the codes from the second read trusted to not be anything to do with old faults or people working on the engine, what I call "Ghost codes", you want hard facts to guide the way your money is spent on parts and labour.

Hi Crasher, thanks for the response.

The car is a 2005 Golf FSi 2.0 circa 45,000 miles - I bought it and within 6 weeks this happened, so I took it back to the dealer and told him to sort it. The "mechanic" I refer to is a guy who works for him, so I haven't paid him. He's trying to fix it but it's been clear from day one that he hasn't got any idea what to do. He hooked it up to his computer and found a few faults, one being a battery fault but he wasn't sure how old that was. He then cleared the codes, we took the car back and waited for the fault to re-occur. When it did, we took it back and it showed a completely different fault. I'm not sure what it was, but I'll ask him to provide me a list. He then suggested changing the throttle body (at great cost), and laughed off the idea of the in-tank fuel pump and we're now at a bit of a standstill.

Due to him being completely useless, I took it to VW for a diaagnostic check and they haven't found any faults/codes at all. However, on the visual inspection they found "excessive oil" on the gearbox, and a smell from the clutch. They think we need to investigate the source of the oil leak. The "mechanic" has agreed to strip the gearbox and clean the oil up, whilst also looking for the oil leak in the hope of it fixing the problem.

I have read a few different threads online, and showed the threads to this "mechanic" but he doesn't seem to agree with them.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Crasher]

It's odd that he found fault codes and that VW didn't. I would be interested to see the results of a VCDS read now, someone independent of the two people who have already looked at it. To go deeper I am going to need your engine code, gearbox code and vehicle type number and these can be found on the sticker inside the front cover of your service book. Examples are BLX for the engine code, GSU for the transmission code and 1K1 1L6 for the type code. Failing that, PM me your reg number when you have enough posts to do so. Can you clearly describe the problem you are having as you see it and is the engine warning light coming on when you are driving? Oil on top of the engine sounds like the common cylinder head leaks, not the gearbox so the type of oil needs to be established, gearbox oil is relatively clean and smells awful.

[shefftyke]

It's odd that he found fault codes and that VW didn't. I would be interested to see the results of a VCDS read now, someone independent of the two people who have already looked at it. To go deeper I am going to need your engine code, gearbox code and vehicle type number and these can be found on the sticker inside the front cover of your service book. Examples are BLX for the engine code, GSU for the transmission code and 1K1 1L6 for the type code. Failing that, PM me your reg number when you have enough posts to do so. Can you clearly describe the problem you are having as you see it and is the engine warning light coming on when you are driving? Oil on top of the engine sounds like the common cylinder head leaks, not the gearbox so the type of oil needs to be established, gearbox oil is relatively clean and smells awful.

I originally took it to my usual mechanic, who put it on his machine and said it had come back with a code related to the ABS brakes. He said that couldn't possibly be cutting out the engine as it was on a different loop, so he suggested sending off the ECU to find out exactly what the problem was. It would have cost £250 so he told me to go back to the dealer and tell him to sort it. How much would a VCDS read cost? Happy to get it done.

I've asked our lass to have a look for the codes you need, so I'm waiting to hear back from her - shouldn't be too long.

The problem:

When decelerating from high speed (e.g. above 50mph) two warning lights appear on the dashboard - EPC and the traction control light. When this happens I can no longer apply any gas and the car rolls to a stop. The engine is usually still running, but unresponsive to the gas pedal. Once or twice, the engine has cut out when rolling to a stop. When the car is stationary I am able to turn the car off and back on, and all faults have been reset and the car drives normally. I have never experienced the problem when driving around town or anywhere at lower speeds. We still use the car everyday, but avoid all motorways and dual carriageways.

We believe it only happens when decelerating, such as when exiting a motorway or coming to a junction, but it has happened in the outside lane of the M1 before so maybe it does it for another reason. As we've lost faith in the car and we don't want to be involved in a fatal accident, we haven't tested it in the outside lane of the M1 since.

I've still not got enough posts to send you a PM, but will send you the REG when I get enough.

[shefftyke]

OK, I've got the extra details:

BLX LA6Q
GXU KG
1K1 2L2

As a slight update, the car has just broken down! I've just had a phone call from the lass saying she's revving away but the car won't move. Is that a slipping clutch?

Cheers!

[Crasher]

I know what has happened there, it WAS gearbox oil. The car has a GXV (not GXU) gearbox and these are renowned for blowing up internally when the diff rivets fail, new box time.

The engine is a BLX, the colour code LA6Q and it is a type 1K1 2L2

[shefftyke]

I know what has happened there, it WAS gearbox oil. The car has a GXV (not GXU) gearbox and these are renowned for blowing up internally when the diff rivets fail, new box time.

The engine is a BLX, the colour code LA6Q and it is a type 1K1 2L2

So you think it'll need a new gearbox? It's currently stuck between reverse and 1st gear apparently.

Any idea how much a new gearbox will cost to buy and fit? Also, is it likely that this has all been caused by the gearbox or is this problem seperate from my original issue?

I really appreciate the advice by the way, it's extremely helpful.

[Crasher]

A genuine gearbox is £2228.85 exchange plus fitting and you will probably find the clutch is covered in oil as well. The diff rivets failing can make the car feel like it is misfiring.

[shefftyke]

A genuine gearbox is £2228.85 exchange plus fitting and you will probably find the clutch is covered in oil as well. The diff rivets failing can make the car feel like it is misfiring.

Yikes! That is a huge amount of money. Looks like I'll have to speak to a few breakers yards if that is the case. I've had a few quotes for a second hand one so far, looks like it'd be about £500ish altogether.

We were finally able to recover the car and get it to the dealer I bought it from. It's currently stuck in gear and can only move forward/backwards 8 inches or so. They're going to disconnect the drive shafts on Tuesday and get it lifted up to investigate. Is it highly unlikely that the gearbox will be repairable?

Just so I can get my head around it; am I right in thinking if the diff rivets fail it will make the car think it's misfiring and this could lead to the car cutting out to save the engine? I'm just a bit confused about the fact it resets back to normal when I restart.

I'm praying that it isn't the gearbox that's gone and it's something a bit cheaper. Obviously, I'm not holding my breath!

Thanks for all your help.

[Crasher]

The diff (1) rivets or pin (part of 4) will have punched through the box from the inside out and will have cracked/holed the casing in both main sections (16) rendering the box a large aluminium and steel scrap metal door stop. I hope you like gambling because that's what buying a used box is, after 30 years doing this I will only fit a used box if the customer supplies it and signs a disclaimer upon collection to the effect that when it goes pop from the inside out it is not my problem. Too many times I have had painful **** with used boxes and customers getting arsey with me over it so now it is a genuine exchange unit or at the very least, find a used box and have it rebuilt first with a diff rivet rebuild kit, but you cannot do that to a GXV, it’s a new diff at £500. Think about it for a moment, this car has done 46K miles (or has it, I would love to EDC mileage check it) and how likely is it that you will find the exact correct box (the KVZ, JCP and JYL are the same as a GXV) with less miles on it? so say if you find a box that has 80K on it, how long is it going to last before it too decides to throw its rivets or pin out of the pram? You may think a used box is a wise move, after 30 years of this crap I don't!

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/GVXdiff_zps979326fa.jpg

[shefftyke]

The diff (1) rivets or pin (part of 4) will have punched through the box from the inside out and will have cracked/holed the casing in both main sections (16) rendering the box a large aluminium and steel scrap metal door stop. I hope you like gambling because that's what buying a used box is, after 30 years doing this I will only fit a used box if the customer supplies it and signs a disclaimer upon collection to the effect that when it goes pop from the inside out it is not my problem. Too many times I have had painful **** with used boxes and customers getting arsey with me over it so now it is a genuine exchange unit or at the very least, find a used box and have it rebuilt first with a diff rivet rebuild kit, but you cannot do that to a GXV, it’s a new diff at £500. Think about it for a moment, this car has done 46K miles (or has it, I would love to EDC mileage check it) and how likely is it that you will find the exact correct box (the KVZ, JCP and JYL are the same as a GXV) with less miles on it? so say if you find a box that has 80K on it, how long is it going to last before it too decides to throw its rivets or pin out of the pram? You may think a used box is a wise move, after 30 years of this crap I don't!

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/GVXdiff_zps979326fa.jpg

I know you're right, I just can't get 2 grand together. As much as I'd like to do it properly, I really don't have an alternative. It sounds like 500 quid is going to be the minimum it's going to cost.

[shefftyke]

Hi Crasher,

Thought I'd update you on this as you've been so helpful. After the breakdown, we were finally able to get a recovery truck (3rd time lucky) to get it on the back using skates. It was stuck in gear so simply couldn't be moved far enough to get it on the back of the others. We had to use skates in the end. I took it to the dealer I bought it from and told him to get it sorted. His "mechanic" is in on Tuesday and has told me he's going to disconnect the drive shafts and get it up in the air to have a look at it.

I'm going to pass on all of the advice you have given me about second hard gearboxes, and reconditioned parts - but because I'm trying to get them to pay for it I'd be surprised if I can talk him into a brand new gearbox. I'm hopeful though obviously.

It's been a nightmare so far, so I'm just hopeful I can find a reasonable resolution.

[Crasher]

Keep us posted, I will be interested so see if it is what I think it is.

[shefftyke]

Keep us posted, I will be interested so see if it is what I think it is.

I will do, I should know more tomorrow when they've had a look. I've been reading a lot about it online and it sounds like an extremely common problem. Surprised VW only offered a 3 year warranty when they found out about it though. Maybe I'm naive, but I expected better for such a major problem.

[Crasher]

They have been having this problem since 1974 with the 020 series and have never cured it for a NEW unit but they have with the exchnage part, which is odd. If you were to buy a brand new box it would come with a riveted diff, buy an exchnage box and it has a bolted diff and the bolts appear to be perfectly reliable BUT the problem is they are much more expensive to make and install than rivets.

[shefftyke]

UPDATE: Had a call from the dealer saying the car needs a new gearbox and a new clutch. He's going to do some calling around tomorrow to source some new parts and then we're going to "discuss" terms.

Is it likely that the clutch will need doing at the same time? It sounds plausible to me.

My boiler has broken down today, as has my hob and I've had my other car keyed today. Can my day get any worse?!

[Crasher]

Yes oil will have got onto the clutch.

By the sounds of your day so far I would get a bottle of wine, lock the front door and get drunk!

Mind you, I never need an excuse to do that. :alcoholic

[shefftyke]

Yes oil will have got onto the clutch.

By the sounds of your day so far I would get a bottle of wine, lock the front door and get drunk!

Mind you, I never need an excuse to do that. :alcoholic

Well luckily I've booked a few days off work this week, so I can have a rest in bed tomorrow and think about what else can go wrong! In all honesty, my day has been so bad I just have to laugh.

Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know how I get on.

[Crasher]

Well I have just done said trick with bottle and now tired so bedward. :yawn:

[shefftyke]

Finally able to update this thread, although not quite at the conclusion yet.

After informing the dealer of my intent to take him to court (and I meant it), he has agreed to repair the car at no cost to myself. He's going to replace the clutch and gearbox (I assume with second hand parts), and we're going to get the work checked over by Volkswagen. He asked the question "what if the original fault is still there after I've fixed the clutch and gearbox", to which my reply was "you'll be fixing that too".

It's been a long process, but hopefully we're getting closer to a reasonable solution.

Thanks again for your help Crasher, you've helped to make sense of this mess.

[icemano3]

I have the same thing Audi A6 3.2fsi sh.....t car the worst l ever ever had PLEASE ANYONE COME AND TAKE IT TO THE SCRAP I HAD ENOUGH

[icemano3]

my 05 2.0 fsi has an intermittent fault which is getting anoying! The car suddenly loses power and misfires whilst the dashboard shows the esp warning light (which cannot be switched off using the esp switch!). Once i can pull in safely, switching the ignition off and restarting restores normality and the car is perfect! (until the next time). This has only happened three times, but twice in the last week, and the last time was in the outside lane of the m1! Eeek! I know i should get the codes read and put money in mechanics pockets, but i hope someone has had this fault and can aim me at a cure. All guidance appreciated.

they all talking sh.....t mate none off them have a f.......g clue