Front crank seal - anyone done it on a 1.8?

[Last Triumph]

In my quest for an oil tight engine, I've just a couple of other areas to attend to.

I noticed that my front crank seal is leaking SLIGHTLY. After 30 mins of running, there is a small and thin trail a few inches long down the front of the sump. Not enough to pool and drip, but enough to leave the sump shiny if that makes sense?

I've just done the timing belt etc and put it all back. At the time, I had much bigger oil leaks to fix, but now I've fixed them, it seems a shame to leave the crank.

When I did the front cam seal, I found it a real pain in the *** to get the seal on without the spring popping off. With access to the crank one even worse, I'm reluctant to do this job for fear of making it worse etc.

Who's done this job, and what can you advise? Also, how did you lock the crank still to undo the bolt?

Any words of advice will be appreciated.

[kenney]

Hi There is a special tool to lock the engine (3099) but a helping hand to block the engine via the flywheel starter ring,with a long heavy screw driver,might do the job.There is also a special tool to fit the seal T10132, the crankshaft seal is easier to enter than the camshaft seal,you will probably manage without it.

[Last Triumph]

Hi There is a special tool to lock the engine (3099) but a helping hand to block the engine via the flywheel starter ring,with a long heavy screw driver,might do the job.There is also a special tool to fit the seal T10132, the crankshaft seal is easier to enter than the camshaft seal,you will probably manage without it.

Thanks for that. I've just had a brain wave re holding the engine - put it in 5th gear and get someone to hold the brake pedal - that should do the trick, as the clutch can withhold the torque of the motor, so the crank bolt shouldn't be a problem.

I didn't use a tool on the cam seal which I why I stuggled. Why is the crank easier? Is it tapered?

[kenney]

I doubt if your brain wave will work,you might get the bolt off but you will have a problem achieving the proper retaining torque

[Last Triumph]

I doubt if your brain wave will work,you might get the bolt off but you will have a problem achieving the proper retaining torque

I'm not with you. if I've missed something, please put me straight.

As long as the clutch will hold the torque (100nm) I can't see a problem?
The motor produces much more torque than this without the clutch slipping so the brakes and trans will hold it still.

Or am I missing something?

[Crasher]

Without the front locking tool you will not hold the engine still enough, trust me I have tried it. The front bolt torque procedure is critical and you MUST replace the bolt.

[Last Triumph]

Without the front locking tool you will not hold the engine still enough, trust me I have tried it. The front bolt torque procedure is critical and you MUST replace the bolt.

If you've tried it, I can't argue. Wat happened, did the clutch slip or something. I appreciate there will be some movement was all the slack in the drivetrain is taken up... Where did it fail?

Don't worry, I'll replace the bolt. Did you use a genuine VW one, and how much was it?

Was this to do your front crank seal? How easy was it to get the seal on the crank without popping the spring? Or did you use a tool?

[Crasher]

There is to much slack to take up. I bought the correct crank locking tool years ago.