Gearbox glitch (I think)

[Dave Avant]

On my 03 Avant TDi 130, if I stop in 2nd gear, the stick will not come out of 2nd as if something is blocking it and won't for a good few seconds. I try knocking it out and its locked into 2nd, then it just moves as if there was absolutely nothing there. I noticed this when I got it, but now I think I automatically remove it from 2nd just before I come to a stop.

Driving it and going through all gears are absolutely fine with no noises or notchiness, its just when I come to a complete stop in 2nd.

Any ideas?

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Tickover too high.

Clutch not fully releasing.

Gear selector cables out of adjustment or damaged.

Bent selector fork in gearbox.

Worn synchro ring in gearbox.



How many miles??

[Dave Avant]

Its done 69,000 miles.

I could understand something bent/broke/worn, but why it only does it at standstill gets me!?! At all other times its dead slick and smooth.

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Well, its' done enough miles for things to wear and brake. Are you the original owner?

Has the box had an oil change? If not, drain out the old fluid into a siver coloured drain pan (or line it with tin foil), and shine a bright torch through the fluid as you gently swill it around. Any copper coloured particles (if any) should show up well against the silver foil. If you do see any copper, then that would probably mean the synchro ring has worn out.

The reason why you can change slickly on the move is that you are probably good at matching the change points, with the least difference in the revs!

What is your tick over speed?

Is there any noticeable play in the gear linkage, or any stiffness or snagging of the throw of the gear lever?

And the clutch bite point - is it near the floor boards, or quite high up?

[Dave Avant]

Well, its' done enough miles for things to wear and brake. Are you the original owner?

Nope, got it last October.


Has the box had an oil change? If not, drain out the old fluid into a siver coloured drain pan (or line it with tin foil), and shine a bright torch through the fluid as you gently swill it around. Any copper coloured particles (if any) should show up well against the silver foil. If you do see any copper, then that would probably mean the synchro ring has worn out.

Did a box and diff oil change on the Z3 the other week and that was manky even though its considered 'filled for life' !!! Is there a recomended change? What oil does it take?


The reason why you can change slickly on the move is that you are probably good at matching the change points, with the least difference in the revs!

At any speeds/revs its smooth - I'll have to try a few things on the way home


What is your tick over speed?

Its normal (I think) at about 900rpm


Is there any noticeable play in the gear linkage, or any stiffness or snagging of the throw of the gear lever?

Nope non at all, infact the girlfriend prefers driving it to her Z3 as its 'lighter' and smoother to drive. :D


And the clutch bite point - is it near the floor boards, or quite high up?

From memory its pretty much in the middle, or not specificly low or high from what I remember. I'll see when I go home.

It does seem strange as its smooth at all other times. I'll try revving it slightly to see if it allows it to come out, but some boxes are better than others for 'clutchless' :D changes.

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Nope, got it last October.

Righty, so the previous owner could have been a crap driver, or may have had previous issues. Doesn't help your cause, though, unless you can contact them from the V5.


Did a box and diff oil change on the Z3 the other week and that was manky even though its considered 'filled for life' !!! Is there a recomended change? What oil does it take?

I personally like to change transmission fluids every 40k, but that is only because I am able to. If I had to pay someone else, on a filled for life, then 60-80k miles.

Put your details in this Castrol Lubricants Advisor: http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.asp?sid=156&bid=63&sc=1156&langid=1 (renew the session), otherwise a trip to the ******* will have to do. I would personally steer clear of any non-genuine fluid, afterall, main ******* prices every 60k miles or so shouldn't break the bank! ;)


At any speeds/revs its smooth - I'll have to try a few things on the way home

OK . . . waiting . . . . ;)


Its normal (I think) at about 900rpm

Ohhh . . . that sounds a little high! What is your three letter engine code?


Nope non at all, infact the girlfriend prefers driving it to her Z3 as its 'lighter' and smoother to drive. :D

Rules that one out then! Still, I think I'd prefer to drive a Nissan Micra to a Z3 :D


From memory its pretty much in the middle, or not specificly low or high from what I remember. I'll see when I go home.

Does the bite point change if you pump the clutch, as if you had air in the hydraulics. Have you ever flushed new fluid through the clutch hydraulics?


It does seem strange as its smooth at all other times. I'll try revving it slightly to see if it allows it to come out, but some boxes are better than others for 'clutchless' :D changes.

I know what you mean about different boxes, with different feel to them. My S4 has the 6 speed Getrag box, and I gave up trying to master clutchless changes :(

[Dave Avant]

Righty, so the previous owner could have been a crap driver, or may have had previous issues. Doesn't help your cause, though, unless you can contact them from the V5.

Quite possibly, I got a free Irish folk tape when I got the car, so possibly points to an Irish decendant!?!? :D



I personally like to change transmission fluids every 40k, but that is only because I am able to. If I had to pay someone else, on a filled for life, then 60-80k miles.

Same here, I've done a service, but haven't got round, to 'properly' giving it a good going over.


Put your details in this Castrol Lubricants Advisor: http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.asp?sid=156&bid=63&sc=1156&langid=1 (renew the session), otherwise a trip to the ******* will have to do. I would personally steer clear of any non-genuine fluid, afterall, main ******* prices every 60k miles or so shouldn't break the bank! ;)

Might try a quote as the price of some jobs are easier paying for than getting dirty and stinking of cat pee!!

Do Audi sell over the counter, BMW only had tranny oil in the big drums and wouldn't sell it over the counter!! I'll take a look. :beerchug:




OK . . . waiting . . . . ;)

Clutch bites at about 3/4 travel from the floor with no slippage and good bite. Checked it last night on the way home; When stationary, stick it in 2nd, take up the biting point then depress the clutch, hey presto, stuck in 2nd until a few attempts of shifting out of 2nd finally releases it. does seem like a synchro or maybe clutch, but I wouldn expect some difficulty when driving, but there are none.




Ohhh . . . that sounds a little high! What is your three letter engine code?

AWX, I think this is right for a 4 pot diesel? But I'm planing on getting it VAG com'd to see if there is anything as I have noticed from time to time a very slight shake from the engine at idle, which was accentuated when I tried one of those plug-in tuning boxes.




Rules that one out then! Still, I think I'd prefer to drive a Nissan Micra to a Z3 :D

:D don't think it would have as much grunt of drifty capabilities.


Does the bite point change if you pump the clutch, as if you had air in the hydraulics. Have you ever flushed new fluid through the clutch hydraulics?

Not checked this. I am planning a brake fluid flush as I'm not sure when it was last done as it will need new rear pads too, so I'll flush it through then, where is the clutch reservoir? Is it separate or does it share the brake reservoir? It has full Audi history, but I'm not relying on that, as not long after I got it, I got a puncture, and part of a service on any car with alloys is to remove them and grease the hubs, this thing was stuck on!!!!! Ended up loosening the bolts and driving it back and forth until it 'cracked' and I could get it off. I've wire wooled the mating surfaces and greased them up now so they come on and off easier than a prostitues knickers. :D


I know what you mean about different boxes, with different feel to them. My S4 has the 6 speed Getrag box, and I gave up trying to master clutchless changes :(

Doesn't Getrag supply BMW? I find the BM boxes notchy although I haven't had a new BM so they maybe better when new. My MG ZT had a Getrag box and was very slightly notchy but got better after some miles had been put on it, although smooth enough, not as fluid as the Honda PG box in my Rover coupe or a Peugeot box - those I could shift with out the clutch!!

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Quite possibly, I got a free Irish folk tape when I got the car, so possibly points to an Irish decendant!?!? :D

Oh no, the car's doooomed . . . :D



Might try a quote as the price of some jobs are easier paying for than getting dirty and stinking of cat pee!!

Gearbox oils are OK to change on RWD motors, it is transversley mounted transaxle boxes that can be a royal pain to do!


Do Audi sell over the counter, BMW only had tranny oil in the big drums and wouldn't sell it over the counter!! I'll take a look. :beerchug:

I'm sure they sell it in one litre bottles. Just fone em up, and ask for the part number, then fone GSF and ask them if they have any in stock, otherwise, try a Seat or Skoda dealer - should be a touch cheaper!


Clutch bites at about 3/4 travel from the floor with no slippage and good bite. Checked it last night on the way home; When stationary, stick it in 2nd, take up the biting point then depress the clutch, hey presto, stuck in 2nd until a few attempts of shifting out of 2nd finally releases it. does seem like a synchro or maybe clutch, but I wouldn expect some difficulty when driving, but there are none.

Oh, I think the clutch is OK. If it is biting nearer the top rather than the bottom, then there is pleanty of travel for the clutch to fully release.

That then leaves either a synchro ring, or the internal selector fork - both expensive!


AWX, I think this is right for a 4 pot diesel? But I'm planing on getting it VAG com'd to see if there is anything as I have noticed from time to time a very slight shake from the engine at idle, which was accentuated when I tried one of those plug-in tuning boxes.

Have a shufty here: http://volkswagen.msk.ru/ - the B5 Passat shares much with the B6 A4. ;) Your idle - pass on that one, but could be the infamous MAF problem. VAG-COM should point you in the right direction.


:D don't think it would have as much grunt of drifty capabilities.

I just don't like beemers . . . ;)


Not checked this. I am planning a brake fluid flush as I'm not sure when it was last done as it will need new rear pads too, so I'll flush it through then, where is the clutch reservoir? Is it separate or does it share the brake reservoir?

Clutch shares the brake master cylinder resevoir, but the "feed" is quite high up (as a fail safe, to save some fluid for the brakes ;) ), so you need to top up very regularly, about every five pumps. The clutch bleed nipple is on top of the bell housing.


It has full Audi history, but I'm not relying on that, as not long after I got it, I got a puncture, and part of a service on any car with alloys is to remove them and grease the hubs, this thing was stuck on!!!!! Ended up loosening the bolts and driving it back and forth until it 'cracked' and I could get it off. I've wire wooled the mating surfaces and greased them up now so they come on and off easier than a prostitues knickers. :D

PMSL


Doesn't Getrag supply BMW? I find the BM boxes notchy although I haven't had a new BM so they maybe better when new. My MG ZT had a Getrag box and was very slightly notchy but got better after some miles had been put on it, although smooth enough, not as fluid as the Honda PG box in my Rover coupe or a Peugeot box - those I could shift with out the clutch!!

Dunno about BMW, but they supply Audi, and Vauxhall, that I am aware of.