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View Full Version : How To Cambelt Change '93 tdi



wells01
08-01-2009, 06:02 PM
Hi
I'm new to this forum. I have just purchased a 1993 Audi 80 tdi automatic. It seems to run very well, its smooth, quiet and feels very solid.
Its odometer is showing 126000 miles so I thought to be safe I should change the timing belt. I have changed belts on other cars in the past so I am not a complete novice. As there is no Haynes manual for this model I was wondering is the procedure recorded anywhere on this forum? Also does anyone have any thoughts on what oil I should use?
Many thanks for your advice.
Regards
Wells01

zollaf
08-01-2009, 06:12 PM
hi, your 1z engine is covered in other haynes manuals, such as the audi 100, or early A4. the belt change is fairly easy and shouldnt pose too many problems for you. hope this helps.

wells01
08-01-2009, 06:47 PM
Many thanks for such a speedy reply
I didnt know it was a common engine.
Regards
wells01

zollaf
08-01-2009, 07:03 PM
yep , very common engine. all the non pd tdi engines are virtually the same. the 1z was used in the polo/ caddy van as well. basically, you line up a mark on the flywheel with a pointer. you will find this on top of the bell housing, under a plug that pulls out.this gives you tdc. you pin up the pump pulley, remove the camcover, and put a flat bar in the end of the cam, then centralize with feeler guages, after undoing the camshaft pulley nut, and placing a drift through the hole behind the pulley and tapping it to release the pulley from the taper. its got an auto tensioner, so you just line the notches up. easy. its worth getting the pin kit with the bar for the cam, and get the cambelt kit with the tensioner and guides. you will also find it easier to do with the right tool for the tensioner. it can be done with a couple of drill bits in the holes, but the right tool can be found for about a tenner. you will also need a torque wrench. the hardes part is removing the rad to get to the bottom pulley, but you can lift it up and to the right to save dropping the coolant, or take it right out and change the coolant. the bottom pulley has to come off by undoing the 4 6mm allen bolts, not the centr nut. i would get new bolts ready as these will be rusty and usually round off.if they do round, you can usually undo them by hammering a spline or torx bit into them.

wells01
09-01-2009, 03:04 PM
Many thanks for the description. That all looks fairly straight forward.
I will give it a go tomorrow morning, Ive got a new thermostat to go in so I will kill two birds with one stone. So to speak.
Regards
Wells01

wells01
18-01-2009, 03:39 PM
Many thanks to everyone that offered advice. I finally found the 0 timing mark. And everything was straight forward after that.
Once againe many thanks for your help.
Regards
David Wells

andystobart
09-02-2009, 11:48 AM
Quick question on similar topic - my '89 Audi 80 turbo diesel with the 1.6 engine died today. There's no fuel going to the pump, so I'm fearing the cambelt may have snapped (and this is something which hasn't been replaced for a long time on the car, so I only have myself to blame...)

Is the cambelt change procedure the same for this engine? Any idea if it's an interference motor?

Also, I'm panning to go investigate the car further after abandoning it at a golf club (always pays to break down near a carpark, especially when you have a bike in the back of the car). Is there anything (apart from it's cold out there!) to stop me doing the change where the car is? As it's a longtitudinal engine I don't even need to jack it up?

Many thanks

wells01
09-02-2009, 12:16 PM
I changed a cambelt on one of these engines, although it was a Passat outside a French supermarket after the tensioner seized. I think it was all done in about an hour.