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otter
12-11-2005, 02:08 AM
Hi, I am the proud new owner of an Audi A6. It a superb car to drive with silky smoth ride and auto transmission. However, I have a problem with the passenger side elec window. It seems the motor is fine but the window seems very stiff and as it nears the top of its travel it gets too much and stops. I have tried spraying silicone spray in to the mechanism as the window goes down, this has helped a bit but it still will not close without one hand each side helping it up. Could anybody give me any useful tips or the best way to remove the door trim without damage so I can take a look at the mechanism itself?

Many thanks Steve

smallholder
02-06-2006, 08:30 PM
I have exaactly the same symltoms on my 1999 A^- again on the passenger side. Any ideas?

smallholder
16-11-2008, 11:38 AM
In the end I used the silicon spray on the window channel which cured the problem and it has worked for the last 2 years.

AUDIQS
16-11-2008, 09:04 PM
:zx11:Had that prob meself and the cure was the motors where tired and replaced got them off e-bay could buy off audi by £150 each?
to remove door panel 2 screws at top of trim at the edge of the door once done just lift the door handle up and the whole panel will come up:biglaugh:
have fun

kennygal
18-11-2008, 12:26 AM
Hi Guys,I had the same fault with my rear driver's side window it needed to be pulled up with 2 hands to close fully but silicone spray in the channels seems to have cured it for now.However my driver's door window makes an unpleasant squeaking noise inside the door as it goes up and down,the noise is very bad in warm weather but disappears completely in cold weather,any ideas?Regards Ken.

KiwiA6
19-11-2008, 02:16 AM
If the silicon spray doesn't work, try a new window regulator. The motor is generally OK, it's the regulator (the bit that hold the window and moves it up an down when powered by the motor) that can sieze up. Price isn't too bad. :Blush:

kennygal
29-11-2008, 02:24 PM
Thanks Kiwi,will investigate that if taking off the door panel is as easy as Audiqs says.Ken.

solo284
02-12-2008, 03:07 PM
Had my rear window guides greased by my local (non Audi) garage two years ago and everything still fine. Window would stop closing about half way up. Worth a go before replacing the motor.

chizz-gb
12-09-2010, 06:14 PM
My A6 displayed all the symptoms, went down no problem but as it got half to three quarters up, it sent itself back down again. The only way was to help it up to close it properly.

It turned out to be the pink clips which audi upgraded from blue ones as the plastic wasn't strong enough. These clips attach the glass to the window cables that lift it up, what happen is the top of the clip breaks.

The good news is it's all documented here, a thread started by wainwriv 22-08-09 tells you all about it and is where i got my info.

cosmin silviu
06-10-2010, 12:25 PM
My A6 has same problem with left passager window and i”ll be glad to find from you a good and cheap solution

thelishman
16-01-2011, 10:03 PM
My 2002 A6 drivers side window started randomly going up and down (mainly down) this week without touching the switch. Also the window wouldn't open or close fully when holding down the button on the key or using the door switch.

The car is well used now (190,000 miles) so I was expecting a major fault with the regulator but after spending a while taking the door apart to investigate, it turned out to be just the drivers door switch which was faulty.With the door switch removed and disconnected, all windows opened and closed normally with the key button held down.

To fix the switch I took it apart (remove the lower black plastic circuit board holder) and cleaned the contacts on the circuit board thorougly with a pencil rubber. Before cleaning they looked dull and and dirty but after a clean they look loads better and (more importantly) everything works perfectly.

yaman
17-01-2011, 11:27 AM
cleaned the contacts on the circuit board thorougly with a pencil rubber.

Now that is a good idea.

Regards
Jim

wedontbelieveya
26-01-2011, 03:37 PM
I had the same problem a few weeks ago. It was one of the clips that had broke . There is a very usefull link on here that will help . Bought a pair of pink clips off ebay and done the repair within an hour.

Tricky77
03-07-2011, 08:13 PM
Hi, I have an offside electric window problem with my 1997 Audi A6. The window is happy going down a bit and then back up again however when it goes half way down or more and comes back up on the one touch automatic setting it stops halfway and goes all the way to the bottom. It will then take 3-10 minutes to start working again. When it starts to work again it is on the manual setting.
I took the window out and replaced the window regulator in full (clips and cables) but no change... I’m going down to the scrappy for another drivers electric window switch unit and see what that does.
Any other suggestions would be really appreciated, thanks. Richard

Tricky77
05-07-2011, 06:55 PM
Ok, i have tried another second hand switch unit from a breakers and the problem remains. it usually does it when the engine is running if thats any help?
I suppose that the only thing left is the electric motor?

is there something i am missing?

bagpipingandy
06-07-2011, 01:20 PM
Have you checked the blue clips/sliders the window sits in, the cable runs throught these and they ussually break causing the window to jam then lower there is info on this site see http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?77944-Sticking-electric-window-on-A6 for starters

Andy

Tricky77
06-07-2011, 08:30 PM
Hi Andy, do you mean the blue press clips that physically hold the window onto the sliding clips or do you mean the clips themselves that slide up and down with the cable? if its the latter i replaced them with the cables. from this kit on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220765740309&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

bagpipingandy
07-07-2011, 12:37 PM
Yes i meant the blue sliders it looks like you have already changed, may be the alignment of the window, when going up jamming at a certain height (thinks finger jam) hence lowering.

however i don't understand fully your line: "It will then take 3-10 minutes to start working again. When it starts to work again it is on the manual setting." if you mean nothing happens then i would look at a power issue cables/connections inside the door and the door to car body duct, when it works in manual setting can i assume you mean the 1 touch doesn't work hence it needs re-set by holding the switch up for 3 secs, then 1 touch works?? if this is true then again it is loosing power and resetting, check cables and connections.

other possibilities, it may be an fault in the module, a fault code read on the CCU or check for water under the passanger carpet, this is where the module sits, a sign of this may be any other strange odities such as the dash door open warnings wrong or other strange electrical switched non working items?

Andy

Tricky77
07-07-2011, 01:00 PM
Hi Andy, thanks for coming back to me. It could be a jamming issue as it frequently stops about 3” up and then recedes back down again, it has done it at higher levels though.

Basically when I get in the car and put the window down it goes all the way down on the one touch setting. When I put it up on the one touch it usually lifts about 3 “ and then drops to the bottom again and won’t budge (no noise at all). After between 3 and 10 minutes it will move again but not on automatic one touch setting but in small increments when I pull the switch. It doesn’t usually have a problem after that but is in manual.
I will check tomorrow that the 3 second reset works at this point.

If it is a cable/connection problem it is strange that it often happens in the same way and never fails in the up position etc.

I will check for moisture on the passenger side but haven’t had any other issues with electrical switches/warnings.
Will come back with findings! Thanks

Tricky77
07-07-2011, 01:11 PM
ah... i forgot that the passenger window only works on manual not 1 touch setting... suppose this is suggestive of the module then?

bagpipingandy
07-07-2011, 01:15 PM
Is strange yes, to prove/disprove the window jamming, with the door open, with a helper operating the switch, place hands on both sides of the glass & gently lift the window when raising, if it goes all the way to the top ok then it is lowering due to physically jamming of glass or mechanism, if it still stops and lowers it is an electrical fault triggering the lower function.

Andy

bagpipingandy
07-07-2011, 01:18 PM
The passanger should work on 1 touch, with the car running or at least ignition on fully. to set it you need the window right up (closed) pull the switch upwards and hold for 3 secs, this resets the window height and allows the 1 touch to work, if your is jamming and you are pulling on the switch it then probably resets the window closed height hence you cannot work it for a while, dont't have a reason it starts working though, ussually needs the battery disconnecting to forget the 1 touch close, unless you have cable issues in the door to body rubber sleve, worth pulling this back to check for damaged cables, could be a combination of things

Andy

Tricky77
09-07-2011, 05:18 PM
Thanks Andy, i have tried the 3 second trick on the passenger door but no change, that feels electrical...

for the drivers door I am a little further forward. I put in the new/2ndhand motor and it behaves differently to the first i.e. it doesn’t stop partway up and disappear to the bottom for 10 mins. It just grinds to a halt halfway up and then drops down an inch or two and stays there a while. From this Iconclude , as suggested, that there must be too much friction on the way up, it will go upfurther if helped...

I took the window out again and greased all the runners andthe rollers in each corner and replaced it but still the same problem. Havetried altering the alignment of the window slightly to see if that helps but nojoy yet. I suppose i could spend some more time on this at a later date.

Cheers,
Richard

Tricky77
09-07-2011, 08:28 PM
I have cured it. mixed and matched the circuit board from the "new" weak motor with the original stronger motor and it now goes all the way up without fail (albeit a little sluggishly). Thanks for the help Andy.

bagpipingandy
11-07-2011, 08:55 AM
good good, but i would solve the slownness, it may be the reason the old one failed, check those blue sliders where the cable goes through for damage, the cable node fits snuggly into them, if broken there will be slight movement in the height,

pete99
04-08-2011, 12:04 PM
Hi All,
Broken cable in drivers door window regulator last week. Since then- Ive had 2 new regulators off ebay . First one didn't align properly with my window holes and caused friction binding between window and frame . I contacted seller- and he sent another one --but is just the same --in fact worse. They both looked cheap and nasty compared to Audi original. I wasted 2 days labour messing around with them trying to make them work- but no possible way !!
Bit the bullet today and picked up a Audi part from Main dealers £116 (broke my heart) -Cant fit it as yet- because of heavy rain all day .
It's a lesson learned .
Just wondering if anyone else has ever had problems fitting a fleabay copy regulator ?.

midge6
06-08-2011, 12:33 PM
Hi All,
Broken cable in drivers door window regulator last week. Since then- Ive had 2 new regulators off ebay . First one didn't align properly with my window holes and caused friction binding between window and frame . I contacted buyer- and he sent another one --but is just the same --in fact worse. They both looked cheap and nasty compared to Audi original. I wasted 2 days labour messing around with them trying to make them work- but no possible way !!
Bit the bullet today and picked up a Audi part from Main dealers £116 (broke my heart) -Cant fit it as yet- because of heavy rain all day .
It's a lesson learned .
Just wondering if anyone else has ever had problems fitting a fleabay copy regulator ?.


Hi,
I bought an EBay regulator repair kit which included the cable, the nylon pulley and 2 pink door guides. Like you, I found that the plastic parts were cheap and nasty, but fortunately the cable was the only thing that needed changing. So in the end, I dumped the plastic parts and just fitted the cable, that was about a year ago – it was a bit awkward to fit but it’s been fine ever since. I have now got a new spare cable in case the passenger door ever fails. My advice to anyone that experiences a broken cable is to stop using the window motor immediately, as you'll very likely screw up the nylon pulley – getting one that fits could be a problem.
HTH
Midge.

pete99
06-08-2011, 05:31 PM
Genuine audi part now fitted- perfect fit-- 'lesson learned' !!

midge6
12-08-2011, 04:56 PM
Hi, I just wanted to add to my post above and say that if you can get a replacement cable, it is worth a shot. I paid about £12.00 (Delivered) and it was every bit as good as what came off. Given that the Audi cable rusted in 5 years, i don't think that they're very good quality. I packed my cable with silicone grease to give it extra protection, though stainless steel cable in my view would be a permanent fix.
HTH
Midge.

mickmcvw
16-08-2011, 01:49 PM
Hi All,
Broken cable in drivers door window regulator last week. Since then- Ive had 2 new regulators off ebay . First one didn't align properly with my window holes and caused friction binding between window and frame . I contacted seller- and he sent another one --but is just the same --in fact worse. They both looked cheap and nasty compared to Audi original. I wasted 2 days labour messing around with them trying to make them work- but no possible way !!
Bit the bullet today and picked up a Audi part from Main dealers £116 (broke my heart) -Cant fit it as yet- because of heavy rain all day .
It's a lesson learned .
Just wondering if anyone else has ever had problems fitting a fleabay copy regulator ?.

Yep, very same problem. Drivers side window regulator went (cable snapped) so I bought a regulator in the local motor factors. Drilled out the pop rivets, fitted the new one but wouldn't move the glass up to the top. Seemed to be the same as you've mentioned, friction binding between glass and frame. I ended up buying a 'fixing kit' from ebay that included the cable, nylon wheel and sliders. Put these back into the original regulator and no problem. As you said, lesson learned.