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View Full Version : binding brakes(2.3 20v coupe,1990)



audicoupe
21-02-2007, 11:08 PM
hi everyone,love the forum much more friendly than the jap forums i used to frequent:Blush:
anyhoo,i wonder if anyone has had the same issues.just converted from the darkside(jap)to the above,and have noticed the brakes are binding on my shiny coupe.all pads and discs are fine,calipers good and free etc.attemted to bleed the brakes and renew the fluid and couldnt get a pedal.:aargh4: managed to get a pedal after pressure bleeding it.when i release the master cylinder(not the rearmost hydraulic servo unit)the car frees up lovely and remains so until you push the pedal hard down and you get a creek noise(not tha a.b.s its a mechanical graunch ).i think the master cylinder is up the swanny.anyone else had this issue.

nb.also noticed when the pedal fully down the brake warning light comes on...?

RJS_90q
21-02-2007, 11:56 PM
When you say 'binding brakes' - for clarification, do you mean that on a run the brakes & wheel get very hot ?

There are probably many possible causes but on my own car I had a problem with a front wheel where a problem within the flexible brake hose was causing the caliper piston / brake pad to stay (very slightly) in contact with the disc (not releasing properly) resulting in the 'binding' condition that I described above.

I've also had ABS problems causing similar problems but I think we should consider the easier ones first :D

Worth considering and hope that it helps,
Bob

audicoupe
22-02-2007, 09:23 PM
hi bob,thanks alot for the reply,i have managed to trace the issue to a faulty master cylinder .the vehicle had been standing for some time before i had bought it(6mnths)and the lack of brake fluid changes had left a watery brake fluid mix against the piston and corroded it.removed,stripped and renewed the seals and good as gold.i am a ford electrician by trade :aargh4: .hydraulic servo's are a new one on me!!!just needed clarifications on any differing thoughts but took the plunge in my lunch break(or rather my long suffering apprentice did:D )

cneeland
26-08-2009, 08:05 PM
Hello all,
I actually have a binding brake at the moment, wonderful. I changed the water pump last week and now this.
The left wheel's brake pad is pressing against the disc and the disc sure is hot after a half-hour trip to work.
I only noticed there was a problem when I heard something rubbing as I entered the round-about.
The wheel's off right now and I had a look for the first time. Like I said, the brake pad is rubbing against the disc.
Does anyone have any tips on what my next move should be? Why won't the pad release away from the disc?
Cheers,
Caley from Canada, in Sweden.

RJS_90q
26-08-2009, 09:29 PM
Suggestion would be to start with the easy things :D

Remove the brake pads, ensure that the pads can slide easily on the carrier (clean and then lightly apply Copperslip anti-sieze compound to the metal sliding contact surfaces) and replace the brake pads.

Many other possibliities beyond suggest that you make a start with this.

Regards,
Bob

cneeland
27-08-2009, 03:55 PM
Thanks for the tips...
When I took the wheel off, there wasn't much resistance when manually rotating the disc, the pad was obviously touching a bit. Is the car driveable , say until the weekend? :approve:
\Caley

RJS_90q
27-08-2009, 06:43 PM
I wouldn't recommend using the car with a binding brake - it would cause uneven braking on each side (hence could cause a skid) - better to be safe...

I note that you have tried turning the disc with only slight resistance. I did have a similar issue with my own car at one point and it was caused by the pads being seized to the carrier. When the brakes were cold the disc would turn okay but after a short run it would overheat as the disc expanded pushing itself into the pads causing more friction and hence heat. The pads couldn't move away (as they normally would) due to being siezed to the carrier.

Hope that this helps,
Regards,
Bob

cneeland
29-08-2009, 10:47 PM
Hey Bob, thanks for the reply.
What you described is pretty much exactly what happened: not only was the carrier was very rusted, but the carrier from the inner pad's trailing edge was chipped causing the pad to get stuck.
This explains why the inner pad was less worn out than the outer pad. (the trailing edge was also more worn out than the leading edge)

The job's still not done, as I've been running into other difficulties: I can't get my new pads in!! :confused: If that hasn't been covered before, I'll start a new post.
Cheers,
\Caley