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TDi-iac
29-10-2008, 04:35 PM
Its not boding well for the old lady anymore, as around 1 litre of oil is being lost every 100/200 miles from my crank oil seal:( Since the garages will want around £200 minimum to replace this £1 part, and the recession has caused me to be strapped for work and cash there is only one, very daunting solution - to fix it myself.

So, before I start taking everything apart and try to think of cunning ways to remove a gearbox with axle stands, bottle jacks and trolley jacks - does anyone have any tips on how I can make my life easier to do this :boggled:.

Muchos Gracias to anyone who can ;)

Crasher
29-10-2008, 04:48 PM
Not too bad to do, the main trick is to release the side mount nuts but do not remove them, remove the front snubber and tilt the engine back, makes life easier.

micheal balbrig
29-10-2008, 11:48 PM
Its not boding well for the old lady anymore, as around 1 litre of oil is being lost every 100/200 miles from my crank oil seal:( Since the garages will want around £200 minimum to replace this £1 part, and the recession has caused me to be strapped for work and cash there is only one, very daunting solution - to fix it myself.

So, before I start taking everything apart and try to think of cunning ways to remove a gearbox with axle stands, bottle jacks and trolley jacks - does anyone have any tips on how I can make my life easier to do this :boggled:.

Muchos Gracias to anyone who can ;)

This may not be relevant in your case but!. I bought an
Audi 80 that had a new crank oil seal fitted by previous owner due to oil leaking. Soon after I found oil leaking from
bell housing area. I assumed the oil seal was damaged while
fitting so I went ahead and replaced it only to discover that
I still had same oil leak. Further investigation showed that the
oil was leaking from oil cooler area, flowing down side of engine
and being blown back in to bell housing.!! Just in case it turns out to be same

Crasher
30-10-2008, 11:42 AM
And if the crank oil seal is leaking, it is normally due to a blocked engine breather.

TDi-iac
31-10-2008, 10:42 PM
Cheers, some good advice there. There is still a possibility the leak is coming from the oil filter bracket/housing, as this was where my first suspicions were focused. However it is not the easiest place to gain access to in order to confirm the leak, and a local mechanic was of the opinion that the pattern of leaking was consistent with a crank seal.
I have been wondering if this was caused by running on bio-diesel for a year, and whether to replace the seals with some higher temperature rated ones. Alas, until I can get some money and time, I am going to have to stick to driving under 2,000 rpm and cleaning the area regularly to pinpoint the cause.

Cheers everyone for your advice.

TDi-iac
12-12-2008, 03:38 PM
She's alive, She's ALIVE!!! Had no troubles removing everything and refitting. Replaced the crank oil seal, and all the oil filter gaskets, as it was impossible to tell exactly where the leak originated due to the messiness of that area of the engine bay, and the amount of free time I have had.
All for £5.69, which is £594.31 cheaper than Audi asked for!!!!
Cheers for the tips guys!

rozzo
12-12-2008, 10:32 PM
well done:beerchug:

how satisfying is it to fix something yerself:D

Crasher
12-12-2008, 11:51 PM
Huh, like I wish! Anyone know anything about adjusting the interlock on a Hotpoint WMA66P washing machine door? Waited all week for the dammed thing to arrive and fitted it. It fits fine but won’t confirm lock without, err, encouragement-if you get my meaning!

Col
13-12-2008, 10:43 AM
Huh, like I wish! Anyone know anything about adjusting the interlock on a Hotpoint WMA66P washing machine door? Waited all week for the dammed thing to arrive and fitted it. It fits fine but won’t confirm lock without, err, encouragement-if you get my meaning!

LOL Have you checked the water tubes to the switch to establish if they are blocked?

Hate washing machines and my tip is to buy the cheapest possible so when it goes wrong, which it will especially here with two boys which means the damned thing thing is almost always on, that you won't cry at the money you have lost, the money it will cost to fix and the the money it costs to replace.

We are on our 4th machine in 10 years. The first three were expensive the current one is a cheapo and so far has lasted the longest !

Crasher
13-12-2008, 03:27 PM
It turned out to be a lack of penetration :naughty:. The catch wasn’t just pushing the interlock catch in deep enough; it is a simple three wire solenoid/micro switch without water pipe connections. To be honest, this Hotpoint has been the most reliable washing machine I have ever owned, the first fault in something like five or six years, all that was wrong was the door frame had cracked. I ordered a new door from Hotpoint which arrived very swiftly and fitted it but it just didn’t want to confirm closure but is seems to be setting in. I would certainly have another from Hotpoint, I bought it after having nothing but expensive Hover machines but since they are no longer made in Welsh of the Wales (I won’t buy foreign domestic goods if I can help it) and as Hotpoint are just about still British…

euroslap
13-12-2008, 03:35 PM
It turned out to be a lack of penetration :naughty:.

There's a guy in the "you know when it's cold" thread with this problem, he bought a 2.7T A6 to cure it (or disguise the symtoms). ;)

:biglaugh: