2.4 transporter still got issues starting + smoke

[allankayak]

SO I have been trying to solve my problems for ages now but still no joy.

I have a 2,4 transporter (not td or tdi)

It was a bit smoky at start when I first got it, but a timing check sorted that and it ran sweet all summer.

Now I cant start it!

It has had new glows, and now injectors, the electric seems to be working correct for the glows and flues pumps out of the feeds to injectors.

A while ago it was starting after quite a bit of cranking over, it would then jump to a good idle, but then about3 minutes later it would smoke quite bad, for about 5 mins while it got warm, then it would run sweet all day.

Now it wont start at all, and I am stumped, its not a complex engine so I think I should be able to sort it, but need any ideas anyone might have.

After quite a bit of bad starting the the low amp wire from alternator to starter has melted out, so I will replace this - could this be a problem or a side effect?

The smoke? Any ideas - I was told it could be a stuck oil valve, so I engine flushed and changes all filters etc + added non return valve to fuel line.

Any ideas?

thanks

Allan

[passat boy]

SO I have been trying to solve my problems for ages now but still no joy.

I have a 2,4 transporter (not td or tdi)

It was a bit smoky at start when I first got it, but a timing check sorted that and it ran sweet all summer.

Now I cant start it!

It has had new glows, and now injectors, the electric seems to be working correct for the glows and flues pumps out of the feeds to injectors.

A while ago it was starting after quite a bit of cranking over, it would then jump to a good idle, but then about3 minutes later it would smoke quite bad, for about 5 mins while it got warm, then it would run sweet all day.

Now it wont start at all, and I am stumped, its not a complex engine so I think I should be able to sort it, but need any ideas anyone might have.

After quite a bit of bad starting the the low amp wire from alternator to starter has melted out, so I will replace this - could this be a problem or a side effect?

The smoke? Any ideas - I was told it could be a stuck oil valve, so I engine flushed and changes all filters etc + added non return valve to fuel line.

Any ideas?

thanks

Allan


You say you replaced the glowplugs but have you tested them connected to the feed wires as new doesent mean they work.There is a fuse to the right side of the wing(near the aerial) with a 50amp or higher fuse that feeds the glowplugs and it does burn out if it recieves a high resistence.This means your new glowplugs dont work and explains the plumes of smoke(mostly unburnt diesel)Wires that melt indicate corosion on a earth somwhere and possibly on a posotive feed(main posotive battery feed),clean and copperslip all earth's and battery terminals body to gearbox and all connectors to alternator/glowplugs and injectors&diesel pump.Have you drained the watertap on the diesel filter(i know you changed filters)It's not uncommon for a diesel pump to fail on T4's and LT35's(if your pump has a clear return pipe,is it full of fluid and having a push/pull affect on the fuel on cranking the engine)

[allankayak]

Well I re-wired the burn out wires, checked the earth, replaced the plugs and for now everything seems fine. I think it may have been a case of chicken and egg. Burnt plugs leading to excessive cranking to start - burning out wires, leading to bad electric feeds and further plugs burning etc.

Another question though.
If you have a a look under the rocker box and find grey sludge coating the inside of the rocker box is this bad. There is no sign of water in the oil, but the feed from the rocker box to the air system has sludge creeping up it.

Is this a sign of bad oil seals, or worse?

Thanks for help

[passat boy]

Well I re-wired the burn out wires, checked the earth, replaced the plugs and for now everything seems fine. I think it may have been a case of chicken and egg. Burnt plugs leading to excessive cranking to start - burning out wires, leading to bad electric feeds and further plugs burning etc.

Another question though.
If you have a a look under the rocker box and find grey sludge coating the inside of the rocker box is this bad. There is no sign of water in the oil, but the feed from the rocker box to the air system has sludge creeping up it.

Is this a sign of bad oil seals, or worse?

Thanks for help


Grey sludge is a sighn of short trips(less than 15miles in each direction)whereby the engine gases dont burn away from correct operating tempreture.On early golfs and other vw's this is also due to the breather pipe(rocker to airfilter box) being clogged from normal use.always clean it out at least once every 6 months or yearly.You dont mention when last you changed the oil&filter but depending on how you care for your T4,use synthetic oil and change yearly but if it's a workhorse then use good quality standard oil and change it twice yearly(filter once but drain at first 6 months change if using standard oil)and what of your airfilter,T4 bin filters dont get much air but somehow end up moldy or dusted up so clean it regulary and if clean in appearence blast it with a airline and youll be amazed at the dust & sand you didnt see before.If you havent done a oilchange in a long time you may have trouble removing the sump drain plug as they sieze and are nasty to remove but ive helped a friend by using a boat bilge pump(+-£30) and sucking the old oil out but the best is through the sump.Do a change then give the van a good 20 minute run both ways on a motorway at 60 miles p/h but dont race just a good run.Dont forget on your T4 to clean&repack the rear bearings with fresh wb grease as they wear out with age,under the centre cab area lubricate lightly the handbrake mechanism(under and in the van).Spare wheel under the rear needs copperslip on the release bolts as they sieze if left dirty and dont forget to padlock the wheel.the sliderbearings on the side door need 3monthly greasing to prevent wear(plastic wheels)and all doors need greasing of the hinges&checkstrap to prevent rust&wear.If your blower motor only blows on fast speed the thermal fuse will be blown but you dont need to replace the whole unit(£35 at dealer&£25 at breakers)as the thermal resistor costs £1 at a tv repair shop(just take the green block unit to them)and its the origional part that just requires soldering in over the old one.The resistor fuses regulary on the T4's due to it being a workhose and used frequently in early cold morning starts.Just on a last point of intrest,to prevent a noisy or worn gearbox change the oil with synthetic rather than standard(main dealer prefrebly but castrol is okay)as the bearings do go on well used models.

[gnwiii]

SO I have been trying to solve my problems for ages now but still no joy.

I have a 2,4 transporter (not td or tdi)

It was a bit smoky at start when I first got it, but a timing check sorted that and it ran sweet all summer.

Now I cant start it!



It has had new glows, and now injectors, the electric seems to be working correct for the glows and flues pumps out of the feeds to injectors.

A while ago it was starting after quite a bit of cranking over, it would then jump to a good idle, but then about3 minutes later it would smoke quite bad, for about 5 mins while it got warm, then it would run sweet all day.

Now it wont start at all, and I am stumped, its not a complex engine so I think I should be able to sort it, but need any ideas anyone might have.

After quite a bit of bad starting the the low amp wire from alternator to starter has melted out, so I will replace this - could this be a problem or a side effect?

The smoke? Any ideas - I was told it could be a stuck oil valve, so I engine flushed and changes all filters etc + added non return valve to fuel line.

Any ideas?

thanks

Allan

The only times my Eurovan wouldn't start were:

1. short in the solenoid wire. Just before the engine quit it was hard to start -- I assume vibration was making the short intermittent which allowed the solenoid to open -- and smoky.

2. air leak in the ball valve (non-return) on the fuel filter mount -- quickly localized using a vacuum pump but took some time to work out exactly how air was getting in.
3. warped head after a coolant was leaking behind a precombustion chamber liner

4. dead starter motor (twice -- I'm on my 3rd starter). The last failure the starter
cranked slowly while drawing way too much current -- had to replace the battery too.

Glow plugs are helpful, but an engine in good condition will start without them
even below -10C. Synthetic oil and a warm battery are big helps for cold starts.
btw -- some people will tell you not to put synthetic in an engine that has been running fossil oil because the seals won't hold. The oil manufacturers say this is not a problem, so I switched my Eurovan after 12 years on fossil and Jetti after 8 and am not losing oil in either engine.