cant get the engine to start !

[tick73]

I need help!

i brought an audi 80 1.9tdi auto a few months ago with an existing problem.
so far i have replaced the following.

number 3 injector,
coolent temp sender,
engine speed sender,
glow plugs,
a few relays,cant remember witch ones at present.
cambelt.

still no joy! starts the same. ie takes nearly a full charge of the battery to get it going, then when it does it fires on 2 or 3 cylinders for a couple of minutes till it revs on all 4 cylinders,then the revs go up and down slightly for a minute then settles. when i try and put it into drive,the revs drop then it cuts out,then it refuses to start.


any ideas? getting really fed up with it.
so far its cost me nearly £400, and many wasted weekends with no results!

i am in the process of taking the pipework for the intake system and intercooler apart to see if there are any problems with that.

there is a fair bit of oil in these pipes and the inlet manifold looks gunked up.

does anyone have any ideas?

[micheal balbrig]

I need help!

i brought an audi 80 1.9tdi auto a few months ago with an existing problem.
so far i have replaced the following.

number 3 injector,
coolent temp sender,
engine speed sender,
glow plugs,
a few relays,cant remember witch ones at present.
cambelt.



still no joy! starts the same. ie takes nearly a full charge of the battery to get it going, then when it does it fires on 2 or 3 cylinders for a couple of minutes till it revs on all 4 cylinders,then the revs go up and down slightly for a minute then settles. when i try and put it into drive,the revs drop then it cuts out,then it refuses to start.


any ideas? getting really fed up with it.
so far its cost me nearly £400, and many wasted weekends with no results!

i am in the process of taking the pipework for the intake system and intercooler apart to see if there are any problems with that.

there is a fair bit of oil in these pipes and the inlet manifold looks gunked up.

does anyone have any ideas?


You need to double check that the valve timing and
fuel pump timing are correct after cam belt change
If these are correct next job would probably be to do
a compression test
If compressions are ok it is possible that fuel pump
may have been altered to lower emissions thus
causing lack of power and hard starting
these engines should start instantaneous if correct

other things to look for=remove small turbo pipes
ensure they are not full of oil also valve and wastegate valve
they sometimes fill up with oil
check that turbo spins freely
check that lever under turbo is not seized. need to remove clip
check that all small pipes are located at correct position
by looking at same model if possible

[tick73]

sorry for not replying sooner, been working away from home.

when i did the cambelt, i made sure that the cam, fuel pump and crankshaft where aligned to the best i could with the tools i had, ie, a bar with feeler guages to align the camshaft so it was at TDC. used a extension bar bound with tape (to make it a bit thicker) to hold the fuel pump in place. put the crankshaft into position with the '0' mark to the left of the hole and the '1' mark to the right of the hole. is all of that correct? or do i need to get the correct tools?


will be checking the other things you mentioned on sunday.

if you could reply as soon as you can, it would be much appriciated.

cheers

[adamss24]

sorry for not replying sooner, been working away from home.

when i did the cambelt, i made sure that the cam, fuel pump and crankshaft where aligned to the best i could with the tools i had, ie, a bar with feeler guages to align the camshaft so it was at TDC. used a extension bar bound with tape (to make it a bit thicker) to hold the fuel pump in place. put the crankshaft into position with the '0' mark to the left of the hole and the '1' mark to the right of the hole. is all of that correct? or do i need to get the correct tools?


will be checking the other things you mentioned on sunday.

if you could reply as soon as you can, it would be much appriciated.

cheers
There is your problem, you should keep the 0 mark on the flywheel to the edge ofthe window and disregard the 1 mark ! Lock the camshaft at TDC (both cam lobes on cyl 1 pointing upwards !) with a 4mm long allen key or a snug fit 10/13mm spanner and use a driveshaft holding bolt to lock the pump as its the same size. Put some WD40 oil on the bolt to ease cutting the threads on the pulley ! With every thing locked in place, turn the tensioner clockwise untill the 2 notches line up then tighten the holding bolt. Make shure the tensioner prong stays in the notch on the block, otherwise it will fail early ! If you happy that nothing moved, turn the crank by hand a couple of times and make shure everything is ok and the marks line up again. If you happy, you might starty the engine. You will need to time the engine dinamically with diagnostic equipment for the best results as the timing will be in the starting window but not Spot On ! Hope this helps. Any more questions, ask !

[tick73]

hi again.

on the timing marks on the flywheel, you said keep the '0' to the edge of the window, but you didnt say which side of it i have to be.
the box is rectangler with the bottom left part missing.

have attached a basic drawing with the basic shape of the hole, i have had the '0' mark in position B.

if you could let me know which side you meant.

did start to do it today, but the good old english weather stop that!
goner try during the week.

[micheal balbrig]

hi again.

on the timing marks on the flywheel, you said keep the '0' to the edge of the window, but you didnt say which side of it i have to be.
the box is rectangler with the bottom left part missing.

have attached a basic drawing with the basic shape of the hole, i have had the '0' mark in position B.

if you could let me know which side you meant.

did start to do it today, but the good old english weather stop that!
goner try during the week.

If it is any help. any Audi 80 TDIs that I had have a
different window to one you describe
the window is to rear of vacum pump and under
lh corner of battery in g/box casing
it is egg shaped with a flat plate like thing inside
this flat edge in egg shape is for lining up 0 to

[adamss24]

hi again.

on the timing marks on the flywheel, you said keep the '0' to the edge of the window, but you didnt say which side of it i have to be.
the box is rectangler with the bottom left part missing.

have attached a basic drawing with the basic shape of the hole, i have had the '0' mark in position B.

if you could let me know which side you meant.

did start to do it today, but the good old english weather stop that!
goner try during the week.
Line up the 0 mark on the fywheel with the centre of the oval shapped window on the gearbox and disregard the post i wrote earlier as it reffers to the timing on later Tdi engines(90-110 Bhp). Rest of the post do apply though. Make shure you do turn the engine by hand prior starting ! Can you let us know what engine code and year is your audi 80 ?

[tick73]

have taken a few pics, have posted the best ones.
its a bit different to how i described it previously. thought the hole was more rectangle.

when i changed the cambelt, i aligned the '0' to the chunk of metal in left hand side of hole, with the '0' right next to it. which is where its supposed to be?

but does the fuel pump position have to be 100% in correct position?
would the driveshaft bolt still work?


the lever under the turbo, moves but not that freely.
the turbo spins freely (side facing front of engine), although there is a small bit of oil there.

not to sure what im looking for regarding the waste gate valve.
as far as i can tell the pipework looks in correct position, though some has been changed with non original hoses.

a previous owner has at some point blocked a pipe off,as the is a small cap on a large hose at top of engine. have looked at other tdi's and it has the same thing.

[micheal balbrig]

have taken a few pics, have posted the best ones.
its a bit different to how i described it previously. thought the hole was more rectangle.

when i changed the cambelt, i aligned the '0' to the chunk of metal in left hand side of hole, with the '0' right next to it. which is where its supposed to be?

but does the fuel pump position have to be 100% in correct position?
would the driveshaft bolt still work?


the lever under the turbo, moves but not that freely.
the turbo spins freely (side facing front of engine), although there is a small bit of oil there.

not to sure what im looking for regarding the waste gate valve.
as far as i can tell the pipework looks in correct position, though some has been changed with non original hoses.

a previous owner has at some point blocked a pipe off,as the is a small cap on a large hose at top of engine. have looked at other tdi's and it has the same thing.

Your g/box casing looks different to any of mine
what I would suggest to find TDC is remove No 1
glow plug and determine TDC by putting long slim rod
down plug hole while very slowly turning engine by hand
you will feel when it is at TDC. (ensure it is on compression stroke)When this is determined
then look to see which thing lines up with 0. also
make your own tippex mark on bottom pulley and casing
but remove tippex marks later as the two parts of pulley
can move in relation to each other
when timing is set .the 0 shoulb be lined up.the bolt should be
reasonably loose fit in pump lock while cam plate is in position