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olisak
28-06-2008, 03:50 PM
Hi,

First post on this forum so bare with me! So I have replaced the existing stereo in my eos (RCD 300 with MP3) with a smart Alpine unit with full speed IPOD and I have run into a problem.... I have used an ISO connector and also a connector for the two tiny aerial things so that side of things is sorted but the wiring does not have an ignition feed and instead has two (red and yellow) permanent battery feeds, with the earth. This poses a problem as all speakers work fine etc.. but I have to remember to turn the stereo off when exiting the car else it will run the battery down. I presume that a switch exists in the old unit that covers this but is there a harness or switch that I can get to act for the ignition side of things? All the other wires match up fine but I currently have the wire that should be for the ignition, going to second permanent feed. I have run an electrical test on each of the other wires and there is no ignition wire to speak of, only two live wires.....
Thanks for your help!

Ol

Ben
28-06-2008, 03:59 PM
the rcd unit that you removed was compatible to the can bus system in the car so when you removed the key it would turn off.

you new unit won't do this.

if you have the climatronic air con, then you can pick up a 12v swithced live from pin 20 on the rear of the unit.

olisak
28-06-2008, 06:07 PM
Unfortunately, I don't have that option of air con (I have the standard)! Is there some sort of switch I can buy?

GDEvans
29-06-2008, 10:06 AM
I recently looked at fitting a Pioneer head unit to my Golf V. My local dealer gave me 2 options: 1 they would fit a switched live (don't know how they would do this) or 2 they would fit a CAN-BUS adaptor (about £50). Since I was only fitting a basic receiver the recommended option 1. They said you only really needed the CAN-BUS adaptor if you have a Sat Nav which can then pick up road speed etc through the network.

Speak to your local ICE dealer who may be able to help.

Blue_E
30-06-2008, 03:46 PM
Hi,

I've just ordered the various bits to change the stereo in my EOS (fascia adapter/cage, wiring adapter, aerial adapter and new stereo) and I'm hoping to fit it all this weekend.

olisak, how did you get on with the permanent battery issue? Is this resolved?

Also, what did you do about the 2 aerial connections? I've been told that there are two connections because there are possibly two separate aerials on the EOS. I was also advised to try both to see which one gives the better reception and to leave the other one out. Does this sound sensible or did you do something different?

I went for the Autoleads PC5-137 amplified aerial adaptor which also has a blue lead (I'm not even sure what I'm going to do with this wire yet!!)

Thanks :)

Eclipse car Audio
03-07-2008, 07:59 AM
The blue lead goes to the remote lead on the head unit (if it has one fitted usually blue and white at the back of the head unit) or if not to the switched live (if you can find one) - it is basically the lead to turn the aerial amp on when you turn the radio on.

Havent done an Eos yet but on the Touran's there is a switched live in the fusebox (fuse 16 - I think but dont quote me on that) - if not try the fag lighter (some are switched some are not) if still no joy then a can bus adaptor is the only way really - other than having the unit on permanently and switching it off when you leave the car. Try Connects2 as I think they have just released a universal can bus adaptor which gives you switched lives, speed pulse etc - if you dont get any joy there let us know and I'll see if I can get you one.

Cheers

Tony

.

Blue_E
03-07-2008, 09:34 AM
Great info, Tony, thanks. Hopefully I'll be installing it tomorrow so I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers

Blue_E
04-07-2008, 10:53 AM
Hi guys, well, so far the stereo installation is going well.

The connections get life out of the unit. I'm using an Autoleads ISO adapter (PC2-75-4) and then there's a further Pioneer adapter from ISO to the back of the unit.

I'm getting a good radio reception using the amplified aerial adapter (Autoleads PC5-137) - the blue lead went into the remote lead on the head unit as Eclipse said it would - thank you :)

My only problem seems to be that the new head unit has permanet power. It doesn't help that by default, the unit goes into demo mode when it's powered off (I've since worked out how to turn this off though).

So on to my question.... The head unit has a yellow cable for 12V constant supply and a red cable for 12V ignition switch power - the instructions suggest that depending on the type of vehicle sometimes it goes red-to-red / yellow-to-yellow or it can be swapped over (red-to-yellow / yellow-to-red) into the ISO connector. I've tried both wiring methods, and whilst they both work, the power seems to be permanent either way round. Does anyone have any tips about this please? What's the recommended wiring method and will it make any difference in my VW EOS?

Many thanks,
Ian

Eclipse car Audio
04-07-2008, 01:40 PM
Hi Mate

Swapping the reds and yellows round only works if the car has a switched live to start with.

Your problem is the fact that the EoS is Can bus (no switched lives) your only proper way round this is to get a can bus converter

http://www.connects2.com/c2search.aspx?catID=66&manID=235&modID=1138

Not sure on price for one of these but can check later if your interested

.

Blue_E
04-07-2008, 01:51 PM
Hi Mate

Swapping the reds and yellows round only works if the car has a switched live to start with.

Your problem is the fact that the EoS is Can bus (no switched lives) your only proper way round this is to get a can bus converter

http://www.connects2.com/c2search.aspx?catID=66&manID=235&modID=1138

Not sure on price for one of these but can check later if your interested

.

So would the Can bus converter result in the head unit having power until the key is removed (this is how it used to work on the factory VW unit)?

And would that part be used instead of the Autoleads ISO adapter (PC2-75-4) that I fitted or does it sit somewhere in between?

One more question, I've noticed the dimmer function doesn't work on the new unit when the lights are turned on - will the can bus convertor fix all of my problems? ( well, my car stereo problems anyway :) )

Price would be good if you can....

Thanks mate
Ian

Eclipse car Audio
10-07-2008, 10:53 AM
Sorry Mate for some reason your reply went into my Junk folder so didnt see it til I was having a clear out.

Not sure on the ignition bit mate on some cars it works and on others it doesnt.

The Converter boxes are about £22 ish and all they are is basically a box with a live and an earth wire and another wire which goes to the ignition switch (instructions are supplied) this in turn generates a switched live for you to run to the radio to enable it to turn on and off with the ignition (like it used to in the good old days :()

I've got a couple of em on order so can let you know more info when I get them.

Cheers

Tony

Teflon
10-07-2008, 12:05 PM
With an aftermarket stereo, there is no need to resort to a CANbus module, unles you want to use the buttons on the steering wheel or get a speed signal for a nav system.

A switched live supply can simply be taken from either finding a free fuse position in the fuse box which is live with the ignition and putting in a spade (be sure to put an in-line fuse inthe cable), or, scotchblock into the 12V socket in front of the gear lever.

A signal for lights on can be taken from the illumination for the 12V socket in front of the gear lever or from any other illumination around the dash.

What a CANbus module might do is provide a continuous 12V supply until you pull out the ignition key so that the radio stays on until you get out of the car. All the other sources go briefly dead as soon as turn the key.

Eclipse car Audio
10-07-2008, 12:14 PM
A switched live supply can simply be taken from either finding a free fuse position in the fuse box which is live with the ignition and putting in a spade (be sure to put an in-line fuse inthe cable), or, scotchblock into the 12V socket in front of the gear lever.




Which is what I said about 4 posts ago :D

Apart from the scotchblock bit - they should be banned and whoever invented them strung up and publicly flogged

Teflon
15-07-2008, 12:57 PM
Which is what I said about 4 posts ago :D

Apart from the scotchblock bit - they should be banned and whoever invented them strung up and publicly flogged
Er, no. It looks like you waffled about a bit, guessed a fuse number and then recommended a CANbus adapter he probably doesn't need and you can't tell him if it will work. At least the facts are clear now though.

Can't see what you have against scotchbloks for use by non-pro's. They are far safer, easier and more removable than chopping into cables and soldering. If connecting to the 12V socket on an EOS, these are the only two options because of the proprietary plugs on the assembly. Either solution is entirely safe, providing the correct in-line fuse is included.

I only happen to know this because I've actually done the job on an EOS. And yes, I used scotchbloks for both the switched live power supply and the lights-on dimming signal. Oh, and I inegrated a Parrot CANbus adapter to work bluetooth with the MFSW while I was at it.

Of course, I'm not a professional radio fitter, so I don't need to sell people tackle they don't need or justify the labour time I charge. Maybe you can answer Blue-E's questions before you stick him for £22. Because, "Not sure on the ignition bit mate on some cars it works and on others it doesnt" don't sound all that great to me.

Eclipse car Audio
15-07-2008, 02:05 PM
Wasn't trying to stick him for £22 just to trying to give alternatives - as stated I haven't done an EOS so couldnt comment exactly on what fuse it may be just that on a Touran (that I worked on about 2 years ago) I think it was fuse 16 which bearing in mind the amount of different vehicles I work on its a surprise I remembered it at all and at least it gives him a place to start from rather than probing the entire fuseox, it was more a statement that there is possibly a switched live in the fusebox - again not all cars have this which is why there are such things on the market called 'igni sen' which generate a switched live from perm live and ground connections which is what i was recommending. I also said to try the cig lighter to see if that was switched both the fuse and cig lighter were said before the adapter whereas if I was trying to 'stick' him I would have just recommended that and nothing else

As Blue -e is most probably miles away from me I don't see where your labour charge comment comes into this as I clearly wont doing the job for him.

As for the ignition part - on some vehicles it does and others it doesn't work as I said and as I HAVEN'T done an EOS i wasn't going to say for sure if it would work or not.

I dont like scotchloks because a good 75% of service calls I go to where something has stopped working( Stereo, alarm, towbar electrics etc) have been connected using these things - take them out and re connect everything and all OK but hey they make me lots of money so maybe I should encourage the use of them then I can justify my labour charge

I bow down to your superior knowledge that you have ACTUALLY worked on an EOS.


I dont come on here to try and make loads of money out of people (or 'stick' them as you so eloquently put it), I have found it a very informative site and have learnt a lot from it and just like to give something back which is what I thought forums were all about, not about attacking people because you don't agree with what they have said - you have your way of doing things and I have mine.

Blue_E
17-07-2008, 01:44 PM
Hi Guys,
Please don't fall out on my account :swordfigh

First, I'd like to say that the free advice on this forum is really great and I actually wish I hadn't left it so long before checking back in on this thread.

I'd been advised that there was an ignition feed and a light circuit feed within the ashtray compartment. I did manage to get into the wiring for this but, even with a multimeter, I just wasn't competent or confident enough to start splicing the wires and, tbh, I was a little concerned about invalidating the warranty too. Oh, and I'd also read somewhere about the potential for causing an electrical fire if you get these things wrong so that was it, no splicing for me.

So I got back on to the company that supplied my head unit. They suggested trying the Connects2 CAN-Bus interface CTAVGCAN001. At first they thought this would be instead of the PC2754 ISO adapter but it turned out that both parts were needed connected together to get it working.

The result is that I got it all working on Tuesday evening. Now the stereo power remains on until I take the key out, all settings are remembered, and the lighting/dim function works too.

The problem though, is that I paid £60 + delivery for the Connects2 CTAVGCAN001 from my stereo supplier. So, now I do feel like I've been had over a bit when Eclipse could've got me one for £22 !!! Sorry mate, if I'd realised beforehand, I'd definitely have got one from you - you're not exactly making a killing out of people if you can sell them for £22.

So the whole thing has been a learning experience and I've really enjoyed a bit of DIY tinkering with my car. I also think that I've probably still saved a bit of money by sourcing the various parts on the internet and fitting it all myself than I would've done if I'd taken it to a dealer - I'd been to one place locally that said they'd fit a new stereo for free but their markup on the hardware more than covered any installation costs. Oh, and they also said that they couldn't guarantee that the airbag warning light wouldn't be permanently on when they'd finished - and if it was, I'd have to take the car to a VW dealer myself to get it reset at a likely cost of £70 - £80 (their estimate!). So overall, I feel like I've done the right thing.

Thanks again for your advice and help.

Eclipse car Audio
17-07-2008, 02:10 PM
Glad you've got it all sorted matey :D

£60 does seem a bit steep I must admit but you do tend to find that some retailers make up their profit on the fitting bits and pieces cause there is very little profit in the actual head units and speakers etc because of Internet selling and Ebay.

Its always nice knowing you've done a good job yourself :beerchug: