Calling all victims of wet A6 (1997-2005) convenience unit problem [Archive] - VW Audi Forum - The #1 Volkswagen (VW) Forum Dedicated to the whole Volkswagen (VW) Group

antaphant

14-05-2008, 11:19 PM

Having just fixed the dead convenience unit on my A6 (cost £175) I've become aware of many owners with the same problem i.e.

Rear windscreen washer pipe leaking into the passenger footwells leading to corrosion of the convenience unit connections.
Plenum chamber drain holes becoming blocked leading to flooding and ingress of water into the front passenger footwell, drowning the convenience unit.

Given that Audi won't admit to the clear design faults, I'm feeling kind of militant and looking for like suffering individuals to join me in a crusade! What disgusts me in particular about this problem is that Audi have released a cable repair kit (£200+) that is designed to repair the damage that water ingress causes.

To my mind, vendors selling Audi A6 are liable to be sued in the small claims court via the 'Sale of Goods Act (1979) as amended' namely that goods must be of reasonable quality. Since allowing water into the critical electronics of a car less than 7 years old is certainly not reasonable quality, then the vendor is potentially liable to pay for the cost of repair.

On a side note, I've managed to recode the new convenience unit and re-program my keys for wireless central locking. Please pm me for instructions if you like.

Please reply to this thread with your tales of similar soggy woe and maybe we can get something done about it.

snapdragon

15-05-2008, 09:14 AM

The same problem happens in the Passat of the same vintage, I complained to VOSA with printouts from this forum, and all they did was ask VW to investigate and they said if a car was serviced by them with FSH these items would be checked as per a technical service bulletin, so being the champion of international corps and not the consumer, :mad:VOSA weren't bothered.

anuvet

20-05-2008, 06:32 PM

Hello, I have a 2001 TDi Passat Estate with a very idiosyncratic CCM unit. It seems to work for a while, then give up and the central locking doesn't work at all. Could you tell me how you managed to recode the central locking unit please, or is this finally a job for the dealer? As far as the source of the leak is concerned, I was more mad at the dealer's assertion that removal of the CCM unit was a three hour job and not, as I found, a five minuter using only a screwdriver!

Many thanks

paul b

20-05-2008, 09:44 PM

I am certain it can be done using VAG-COM, which I have, but I am a newbie and still getting to grips with it. I bought it to code a new remote key to the car, and for whatever faults the thing throws up in future.

Paul

EDIT: It is most likely that there are people on this forum who can give you detailed instructions on how to recode the system. You would either need to purchase VAG-COM software and cables, or you can of course send it to the dealer if you really want!

antaphant

23-05-2008, 05:22 PM

In order to re-code the CCU I purchased a USB cable from Ebay along with a CD of lots of useful software including VAG-COM. I logged into the original CCU and made a note of the codes. I then fitted the new CCU, logged in again and re-coded with the noted codes.

Then, I needed to re-program my wireless central locking. You will need BOTH of your "switchblade" keys to reprogram one or both of them.

Take the key you DO NOT want to program and put it in the ignition. Turn it one click forward.
Close and lock the drivers door with the second key.
On the second key (the one in the drivers door) press the 'UNLOCK' button ONCE only. The lights will flash on the car, but the doors will remain locked
With the second key still in the drivers door, unlock then lock the door again.
Pull the key from the slot and test remote functions.
Open drivers door, remove key from ignition.
If both of your remotes don't work, do the above for the first key, but on step #3, press the 'UNLOCK' button twice. The lights will flash twice, then continue on with step #4.

These instructions worked on my 2004 A6. Please take care to ensure you don't mess around in VAG-COM as it could do all sorts of nasties like disabling you airbags and all sorts.

paul b

24-05-2008, 05:40 PM

In order to re-code the CCU I purchased a USB cable from Ebay along with a CD of lots of useful software including VAG-COM. I logged into the original CCU and made a note of the codes. I then fitted the new CCU, logged in again and re-coded with the noted codes.

Then, I needed to re-program my wireless central locking. You will need BOTH of your "switchblade" keys to reprogram one or both of them.
Take the key you DO NOT want to program and put it in the ignition. Turn it one click forward.
Close and lock the drivers door with the second key.
On the second key (the one in the drivers door) press the 'UNLOCK' button ONCE only. The lights will flash on the car, but the doors will remain locked
With the second key still in the drivers door, unlock then lock the door again.
Pull the key from the slot and test remote functions.
Open drivers door, remove key from ignition.
If both of your remotes don't work, do the above for the first key, but on step #3, press the 'UNLOCK' button twice. The lights will flash twice, then continue on with step #4.

These instructions worked on my 2004 A6. Please take care to ensure you don't mess around in VAG-COM as it could do all sorts of nasties like disabling you airbags and all sorts.

I tried following similar instructions to yours, and totally knackered my remote central locking system. I think the car lost the codes completely, and my car ended up giving me 15 seconds to jump in and start the ignition otherwise an alarm of some description would sound. It wasn't the full alarm, because there was no horn, it was just a loud bleeping noise.

In the end, I sorted it using VAG-COM, it was so easy to do with the instructions provided.

Paul

Bobajob

06-06-2008, 09:59 AM

I have been asked by my son to investigate his faulty central locking, following a flood out like you described, I have a universal code reader, before we get going I guess we need to access the unit? repair corroded joints? please advise.

Chris

a shuffle

11-06-2008, 03:08 PM

I suffered a leak in passengers footwell about 4 months ago. Now when the ignition is on the interior lights pulse on and off(very much like a heart beat monitor!!) and interference come across the radio through the speakers when the lights flash. If I lock the central locking using the switch on the inside of the door the problems all stop. Is this a problem with the convenience unit?

antaphant

11-06-2008, 11:28 PM

Best advice I can give both of you is check the ccu - it's in the passengers footwell. Remove the front passenger seat (two bolts at the front, remove trim off rails and slide it back off the rails). Remember not to switch on the ignition once you've disconnected the side airbag as it will trigger an airbag fault. Remove the trim arround the bottom of the door and inside of wheel arch. Peel the carpet up and you'll see the ccu on the floor.

A visual inspection for water in the footwell, inside the ccu cover and terminals is required. If it's swimming then dry it out and you never know your luck. Otherwise you need to diagnose with VAG-COM or similar.

dcpollock

17-06-2008, 02:32 PM

Just had the same disaster (plugged cowl drains). 1999 A6 Quattro. Dealer wants to replace two control units and 3 wiring harnesses - of course they do!

I'm trying to dry it out - have the carpet up enough to stuff dryers in there and vacuum the high water. Here's the symptoms:

central locking not functioning,

turn signals not working - but all bulbs powered up even with the key out

Power windows, power seats and alarm all inoperable

The short question: does anyone know if these functions all reside in the driver's side control unit, the passengers side, or both? Right now I'm concentrating my drying effort on the driver's side as that is where the high water was, even though it seams to have come through from the plenum over on the passengers side. Note: I'm in the US so my drivers side not the same as yours, don't know if the control unit placement would be reversed from yours. Would be better on a US forum - but this post has the best info I've seen relating to my problem. Any info at all would be a help = any way to identify which control unit is for what?

btw all fuses are ok

Thanks in advance - Dave

antaphant

17-06-2008, 09:58 PM

Dave,

As far as I know the alarm, electric windows, hazards and central locking are all controlled from the CCU. Remember, holding down the open button on your wireless key opens the windows after a couple of seconds, right? Also, the alarm when triggered operates the hazards and deadlocks the doors. Certainly in my case the wet CCU left the hazards on all the time until I pulled the hazard fuse.

As to your question about sides of the car, I only got the left side wet and replaced the CCU residing in the left. If there's some intelligence in the right it didn't get wet anyway.

Regards,

Anthony

dcpollock

18-06-2008, 12:54 AM

Thanks Anthony,

So... if I pull the fuse for the hazard lights I get my turn signals back? That would be fantastic. Right now I have to leave my battery disconnected so the lights don't run it down when the car is sitting. I could make do with the rest (no power windows, locks, etc) until I get things sorted out, but driving without the turn signals would be a little hairy.

I got it dried out pretty good today - about three hours of alternating two hair dryers. When I hooked the battery up my power seats were the only thing that revived. Engine still runs ok. After about three minutes the hazard went off and the turn signals were working. Before I could finish my victory dance in the driveway (about thirty seconds) they crapped out again. #@%*&!!!

Anyway - so pull the fuse for the hazards and the turn signals are back?

Thanks again - Dave

sam80quattro

02-12-2008, 12:59 AM

hi, sorry to bring an old thread back up, but is it possible for a ccu to become so water damaged that it cannot be connected to vagcom etc?
ive bought a new 1 to recode but it says on vagcom "no response from controller" i can get engine, airbag and instrument information but no convenience or central locks. please help, i've had the car for a month now and its really doing my head in lol i can still lock/unlock doors but i have to unplug ccu everytime i do either as it sets the hazards off, and i cant do anything with the windows :zx11:

1888

02-12-2008, 09:25 PM

hi sam,had the same response when i had water in footwell,ended up replacing the ccu,windows and indicators work without programming but you will have to programme your key for the remote central locking,there are other posts on the forum telling you how to do this, regards

dcpollock

02-12-2008, 10:49 PM

Hi Sam,

Dealer wanted $6000 to remove seats and carpet and replace the CCU, the control unit on the other side (transmission "brains") and 3 wiring harnesses. Box with transmission brains (or whatever) was completely dry - but it turns out there was a case for replacing the wiring (see below). I pulled molding and dried the carpet without removing the seats. Then got the control unit out - it was pretty easy. The box still had water in it and connections and circuit board were corroded. I cleaned everything up, soldered a fried wire on the circuit board and jumped across one connector pin that was gone.

I got everything back except the interior lights. Power seats and windows were working again as well as locks and since I didn't replace the unit I didn't have to recode the keys. Before I worked on it, in my case, all the turn indicator lights were on solid even with the ignition off and fuse pulled. The only way to keep the battery from running down was to leave the battery disconnected ( a very good idea anyway if you should choose to try this radical salvage attempt). So it cost me $0 instead of $6K with about 4 hours work (plus 20 minutes to unplug the cowl drains). I was warned by an automotive e-tech (one I trust - not a dealer tech) that the wiring was probably on borrowed time since water gets up between the insulation and copper by capillary action (wire ends are not sealed). I traded it in immediately. Good luck with whatever you do. Keep receipts and take pictures: there are class action suits against the manu. both in the US and UK. Also need ypur proof of ownership. Search for threads on this board about joining these if you are interested.

sam80quattro

03-12-2008, 06:20 PM

i'll check the wiring next then. thanks for the advice

Srdjan4

07-12-2008, 11:26 PM

Hi there. Just registered. Great site.

Just had a same problem. All of a sudden the pasinger side got full of water, and now thw cwntral locking is not working and the indicators go all funny.
Has anibody worked out where the f water goes in. In my case arround 20L of water came in 10 days.
Thanks

Niall76

08-12-2008, 08:18 AM

It usually comes in via the pollen filter housing.

paul b

08-12-2008, 12:50 PM

It usually comes in via the pollen filter housing.
Or the drain holes underneath the battery and battery cover. There are also some near the brake servo.

Paul

Srdjan4

08-12-2008, 01:19 PM

Thanks for that gyus!
Cant belive that Audi made it so bad?!?!? So what is the solution? How do you stop it from comming in?
TRhanks

paul b

08-12-2008, 01:25 PM

Thanks for that gyus!
Cant belive that Audi made it so bad?!?!? So what is the solution? How do you stop it from comming in?
TRhanks
Should it be the drain holes like I mentioned, simply clear them (they are fairly small, if you've got big hands you might struggle) as they are usually filled with leaves etc. They can block again, so to get round the problem I would inspect them at service intervals (every 10k).

Don't take them out, otherwise you'll end up with fumes from your engine bay getting in the cabin.

There is nothing more you can do but clean them, really.

Paul

Srdjan4

15-12-2008, 03:02 PM

paul b

15-12-2008, 03:42 PM

Thanks Paul,

Disaster here,, more water came in, the indicators constantly on, drainage below the batery look clear so still dont know where is it entering from.
Now will try to get this ccu unit from below the seat.
Which thread is it where the process goes against Audi
There are more drain holes near the brake servo (although I've not seen them so cannot explain much about them :p) which can clog up just like the ones beneath the battery cover.

Other people have mentioned leaky pollen filter housings, although personally I've never seen a problem with these.

It is likely the CCU is mashed. You can try drying it out and re-fitting but it most likely needs replacing. :(

Paul

Srdjan4

15-12-2008, 10:07 PM

HGi there,
Just found the f ccu box, (what a stupid place to put it unreal) full of water.
When you take the board out you´ll see various jaks comming in to it. The first jack or the biggest one had firs two pins of the connection corroded. When tried to clen them, and accidently "bridged" first two thew contact was given for the hazard lights to swich on o of. By cleaning them from corrosion the indicators work fine and they still working. The bummer is that now my windows are dead and the inside lights as well. I hope that by clenng them did not brigged some other pins and f.....kd some of the procsor on it. I´ll see the fuses tommorrow.
By the way do you have a clue of how much does it cost the new board?
I also think that it a Audi´s foult 100%. How stupid, blooced drainage fills up the Central Control Unit¿¿!¿!¿

ezhik

15-12-2008, 10:13 PM

Keep an eye on ebay for the CCU, if you can wait, I bought one last week for less than £3. They do come up for sale.

Srdjan4

15-12-2008, 10:22 PM

Whow thats cheap, I´ll give it a go now,. Thanks for that.
Any dainger that the car wil ¿de-code? or somthing.

paul b

16-12-2008, 02:57 PM

You will need to re-code the CCU.

It can be done with VAG-COM, what I suggest is using VAG-COM to get the code while the old CCU is in place (if its working enough to talk to the computer), write it down and then input the code into the new one once the new CCU is in place.

If you haven't got VAG-COM you're in a bit of trouble I think...

Paul

sam80quattro

16-12-2008, 07:57 PM

You will need to re-code the CCU.

It can be done with VAG-COM, what I suggest is using VAG-COM to get the code while the old CCU is in place (if its working enough to talk to the computer),

what if it isnt working enough to read the codes? :(

paul b

16-12-2008, 08:52 PM

what if it isnt working enough to read the codes? :(
Then I'm not sure how you find the correct CCU coding. Audi should be able to provide this though.

Paul

Srdjan4

16-12-2008, 09:16 PM

Hi there guys,
In my case everything is working now! The mailfuncion of the inside lights and the central lockinw was due to the burnt fuse that happened when accidently I bridged the pins from the jack that goes in to the ccu box. It soprises me that it works as it was full of water totaly.
Now the problem is to find out where the woter enters. The drainage below the battery seems ok. I think that some comes from the polen filter but not all of it.
Anu idea how to stop the water comming in from the polen filter?

Also want to say how greatfull I am that this site exists and that you, (we), are all on it.
Many thaks to all.
Serge

MRahman

06-01-2009, 11:21 PM

Hi there - I dont know if i have the same problem - but here it goes:

My remote suddenly stopped working - changed batteries and tried to re-sync no luck - i dont know if the remote is gone or control unit in car.

Now a few months back i had THE FLOOD - i unblocked the drain holes and dried the footwell - everything carried on working fine.

How do you know if the unit under footwell is damaged. All my electrics work fine except my central locking. Also anyone know which fuse is for the central locking unit?

Regards

Srdjan4

08-01-2009, 01:44 PM

Hi,
As far as I know, you should take the CCU unit from the floor below the drivers feet. You do not have to take seat of, just the carpet from the edgo of the door. Look for corrosion and dry.
Other thing is that you can have a problem with a drivers door lock.
I have cleaned the drainage below the battery. Please tell me where are the other ones.
Good luck

Hex69

08-01-2009, 02:49 PM

Naseem

09-01-2009, 09:09 PM

I've just realised I have this problem, but not quite. I have the 'flood' in the rear passenger side. No electrics are faulty at the moment. Going to get it serviced and fixed tomorrow.

Srdjan4

09-01-2009, 10:15 PM

Hi there,

The flood in the rear passeger side comes from the same place, the engine let us know tommorrow how much did it cost to fix it and where your "hole" was:)
Where is the brake servo?
Cheers

rory2112

09-01-2009, 10:34 PM

Naseem

09-01-2009, 10:40 PM

I took the mat out and left to dry in the bathroom. I tried removing the carpet in the rear to unplug the bung and let it drain but I can't get the carpet up.

I had a look under the car and I can see it dripping out loads, from under the rear passenger footwell; that must be where the bungs are, two small holes.

If the CCU is ok, then what needs changing and how much are the parts likely to cost? There isn't any damage to electricals so hopefully it'll just be a replacement hose or something?

Naseem

09-01-2009, 10:55 PM

Hi Just read your post. I've got lots of water in the rear passenger footwell and a rear washer that stopped working afew weeks ago. My question are if you can help;

1. Any ideas why mine is leaking into the back foot well? the front passenger is fine and dry.

2. Why does the pipe leak? Can I simply fix or patch the pipe?

3. Will it leak water if I am not trying to operate the rear washer?

Any help you can provide is very much appreciated.

regards,

rory

Hi Rory, seems like you've got just the same problem as me. The front passenger carpet is dry. However, after I got the corner of it up and felt underneth, it was wet. I think if it leaks too much it'll just just overflow from the back into the front, and that's something that we don't want as that'll flood the CCU.

What year car have you got by the way? My old 96 reg A4 Avant had a washer tank in the boot, why didn't they do the same with the A6???

rory2112

09-01-2009, 10:58 PM

Hi Naseem,

Is your rear washer working ok?

R

rory2112

09-01-2009, 11:00 PM

Hi Nas,

Got a 2003 a6 avant.

Naseem

09-01-2009, 11:03 PM

Hi Naseem,

Is your rear washer working ok?

R

No, hence the problem. I have to keep the washer button pressed for at least 20-30 seconds before anything comes out. I filled up the washer tank last night, but this afternoon it was empty.

rory2112

09-01-2009, 11:08 PM

Just one thought Nas,

It seems as if it may have blocked drain holes in the battery compartment. If this is the case any ideas why the rear washer would not be working?

r

Naseem

09-01-2009, 11:49 PM

Rory, there are number of reasons why the rear whasher may not be working.

The problem I am having - the leaking hose, (rub the rear footwell carpet, if it foams a little then it's washer fuild).
The rear washer nozzle could be blocked. If this is the case then use a pin/needle to try and unblock it and see what happens. You could even try a putting a drop of limescale remover on the nozzle hole (something like Cillit Bang) but make sure it's rinsed of with lots of water after.

I'm going to check the battery compartment tomorrow in the light. I've not been today as leave home for work at 640am and get home after it's dark. Will check tomorrow. I assume though that you are having the problem as me.

Naseem

10-01-2009, 07:55 PM

Right, took it to the garage today and when I explained that the problem with the flooding, they said I'd need to bring it back on Monday as it'll take longer than they initially anticipated.

They said the rear washer hose runs through the A and B posts and not along the entire length of the floor as I assumed. Because of this they will need to take apart the interior panels and find the problem.

180 quid for a full service and inspection (including pollen filter), plus about 2hrs time for flood problem which they'll charge 45quid labour plus parts.

Can anyone confirm that this is the way to go about repairing the rear washer hose problem? I was kind of suprised that it runs up and down the A and B posts.

Thanks.

lucasvdb

01-05-2009, 02:01 PM

This thread has been stalling for a while however the problems still persist!:zx11:

My indicators were suddenly playing up and yes the carpet was wet and the plenum chamber full of water.

Newbury Audi removed the grommets, cleaned the chamber at a cost of £28.60, not unreasonable.

However Audi UK still insists it is not a design fault despite Passats now being recalled to do exactly the same. Very unreasonable.

Yes it is a March 2003 registration A6 but a goodwill gesture would not have gone amiss.

Lucas

Naseem

01-05-2009, 02:26 PM

Hi all, I've been really busy lately, but I thought I'd update. I got my car sorted at an independant.

Basically they guy who worked on it has a mate working at an Audi dealership, I'm not going to mention any names or where it was but this Audi person admitted that it's a design fault.

Something to do with the passenger seat and it's movement back and forth and up and down. Apparently it's routed so the seat mechanism keeps rubbing against the hose until it wears out, hence the leaking.

When they fixed mine they shrink wrapped the CCU and cabling in case it started leaking agian.

Boblell

02-05-2009, 12:46 PM

I will just add my experience to this forum. After buying my Allroad I noticed that the rear washer didnt work. Everytime I engaged it I smelt that windscreen-wash smell in the car. Thinking nothing of it at the time I carried on as normal. A few weeks later I was horified to find the front passenger well carpet soaking wet.
I removed the plasic trim that holds the carpet down and peeled the carpet back to find it soaking with loads of wires in the close vicinity. It soon became apparent the rear windscreen plastic washer hose had come apart, it just needed to be clipped back together again. Job done.
I had put the car in a few weeks earlier for other work and I had asked the Audi specialist to find out why the rear washer didnt work and they didnt find the problem, which is a bit of a worry.

Peter D

02-05-2009, 02:29 PM

Quite common I am afraid. There is another joint as the pipe goes up the rear wheel arch, same problem. Regards Peter

hicks1967

20-08-2009, 08:21 PM

Peter D

20-08-2009, 08:36 PM

Remove the lower shield from the screen and then remove the pollen filter cover. Either buy a new version of the seal or use generous amounts of sealer and refit the housing, then fit a new filter and put it all back together. Regards Peter

paul b

23-08-2009, 10:52 AM

Hi,

New member with new (to me!) 2000 A6 2.4 V6. Engine warning light came on yesterday and after a quick check on this site and the passenger footwell I obviously have the same water entry problem.

Completely agree that Audi should recall these cars and get them fixed as this is clearly a design flaw or at least something that should be checked as part of a regular service.

Anyway have found this guy on the web so if I have problems with my ECU I think I will give him a go. http://www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/. Right now I am hoping it will dry out!

Steve
What you have in the passenger footwell is the CCU (not an ECU), for the convenience electronics only.

When wet the connections corrode in the CCU, there's no point sending it away to be repaired, it's most likely to cheaper to buy a new unit and have it coded. At the dealer it shouldn't cost more than £100. I'd imagine the time it takes for someone to refurbish the CCU would cost more in labour costs than the price of the part.

If you have engine problems, the two things may not be related at all. I'd advise you get a fault code read done.

Paul

hicks1967

11-09-2009, 08:14 PM

Thanks for the info. Everything went fine after the dry out apart from the airbag light came on. Local independent reset the system but couldn't find any faults!

Guess what the engine warning light is back on again. Car drives without a problem. Think I will purchase the VAG-COM and check out the fault code before I go back to the garage again.

I bought an A6 as it was supposed to be reliable.

paul b

11-09-2009, 09:16 PM

VAG-COM sounds like a good investment, I've got it and would recommend it to anyone.

But A6s are reliable, do bear in mind yours is a 2000 model you've just bought, its 9 years old so there's bound to be some wear and tear.

When you've had the engine scanned with VAG-COM or similar let us know the fault codes. At this point it might be something as minor as an iffy coil pack.

Niall76

11-09-2009, 11:00 PM

Is the CCU unit really less than £100 from the dealer?...

paul b

14-09-2009, 01:39 PM

Is the CCU unit really less than £100 from the dealer?...
I would think so. It was £46 plus coding for my VW T5 van, and it does the same sorta thing. It's a bit ridiculous if it costs much more than that for the A6.

bagpipingandy

15-09-2009, 08:01 PM

Is the CCU unit really less than £100 from the dealer?...

I Paid around £170 for the ccu part only from Audi for the same unit on my 2001 A4!! I fitted and coded it myself, they are not cheap on the A4. I cannot confirm the price on the A6, haven't had to replace it.....yet!! :(

andy

Peter D

15-09-2009, 08:48 PM

Yep £175 or so plus vat is the price for an A6 CCM up to 2005.

Regards Peter

paul b

17-09-2009, 11:30 PM

Is the CCU unit really less than £100 from the dealer?...

Yep £175 or so plus vat is the price for an A6 CCM up to 2005.

Regards Peter
I stand corrected by those in the know.
Not had to replace mine, caught a (one of the two) blocked drain hole before the water got into the car thankfully. :beerchug:

TDI-Rob

21-09-2009, 10:30 PM

my dash display has vanished since the rain the other day has this any relation to the CCU?

Can a CCU be removed from a another A6 and fitted?

Peter D

22-09-2009, 10:21 AM

I do not think it is related. The CCM provides information to the Display processor, like doors open etc but does not run the display. Is everything else in the dash unit working. Regards Peter

chilledgibbo

22-09-2009, 10:40 PM

Had the same issue in my Passat last Autumn.

I eventually found out it was the Pollen filter housing, so I got some proper sealing cord (free!) from VW to replace the crappy foam seal that was there before. The worst bit was having to take the glovebox and seats out, as well as trim to lift the carpet up whilst the battery was disconnected (to avoid the airbag fault). The passenger footwell get's wet first as this is the lowest point of the floor of the car. It's not noticeable for a long while due to the thickness of the soundproof backing and also the semi-permeable nature of the carpet backing itself, so once it's wet it has to come up!! Once its all up, its a case of vaxxing as much as possible from the bits of carpet that can be lifted, a couple of hours with the hairdryer and then prop the carpet up with wooden batons, end on to make sure that they finish drying off (possible in the summer months with the solar gain from the sun through the windows, probably not in winter!)

Also remember to clean the rubber concertinered grommets that house the wiring between the door and the door pillars. If they lose their seal, they will also let water trickle down the pillars and eventually head under the carpet.

PhatBob

23-09-2009, 10:37 AM

At the beginning of this year I discovered (when the temperature dropped below freezing) that my battery compartment was full of water - the reason for my investigation was due to the brakes freezing on when you pressed the pedal, and after a mile or so of test driving the pedal froze
The situation was so bad that a garage owning friend of mine called the Audi garage in Cambridge, and after a short discussion over no more than three phone calls (all instigated by them) they decided to replace the water filled brake servo free of charge...

The only reason that I had not had the water ingress into the cabin much was because the pollen filter was so old and filthy that it seemed to be marginally waterproof!

In July the wet passenger foot well thing happened and I found on removing the kick panel that the hose had come adrift of a connector - it clipped back in with a reassuring feel and I'm keeping my eye on it.